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Hi for me there are a couple things that keep my back in OK shape this time of year. I used to try to go go go go go now I try to break it up a bit if I can. I might do 15-30min chopping and tossing then I will stop and move pieces under cover/closed to where I stack or I stack if close enough, then circle back around and repeat. I find I probably touch the same piece of wood 5 plus times so if you have ways to minimize the number of times you handle the wood that could help. Splitting close to where you are stacking if possible. Proper rest, again if possible. Decent tools, It took me several years to get to the right axe, I use 2, mostly a splitting maul 8lbs for heavy stuff and a regular axe (fiskars brand) for rest. Knowing your body. For me that means sometimes when my back is sore or aggravated I need to shift to other less physically demanding things or take a break for a couple days. Easier said than done depending on how much wood you are processing. Lastly and also a challenge these days is I keep physically active with martial arts which has helped improve maintain my strength and flexibility as I am aging. Having said all of the aboe if your back gets worse and does not get better with rest, likey good to seek medical attention of some sort. Thanks for the great question an watching my video

Very true...sulphur would be a better additive.

Hi cheryl, very cool what you are doing, way to keep things going/growing in the off season. The peas are self polinating so that is not the issues. Sugar snap peas prefer cooler temperatures (around 60-70°F or 15-21°C) during the day and slightly cooler at night. Consistency in temperature is crucial for flowering. Sorry for the delayed response. Best of luck, Let us know if they turn out, always great to hear the stories. Thanks for watching my video.

no problem, good luck, talk to some of the long time constructions guyes Im sure they too will have some good tips on how to save your back. Best of luck

Thanks so much appreciate you watching and sub

Hi the plant was there is was just dried up and almost the same color as the straw. Thanks for watching

Hi brahmeshvaram, great question, I have not noticed issues myself however likely because of diluting the vinegar. Having said that I have read that if the solution is too acidic it may have negative effects on the soil biome. If you need to adjust the pH of your soil, you may wish to consider the use of other natural methods like adding compost, organic matter, or specific soil amendments that are designed for pH adjustment. These methods are usually less likely to cause harm to the plant biome compared to using acidic solutions like vinegar. Thanks again for the really good questions and watching my video. Best of luck

@@EasyGardenHacks OK thanks Phil. Here's what I've learned so far fyi, you probably know most or all of it: as you said, elemental sulfur but it takes a year. There are fast acting sulfates but not organic, they start acidifying immediately because they are already broken down. Aluminum sulfate is to be avoided because it's a heavy metal. Ammonium sulfate is used, iron sulfate maybe. Calcium sulfate is gypsum, and contrary to popular belief, it is not acidifying, because the calcium is alkaline. Pine bark mulch is acidifying, hardwood mulch is alkaline or neutral. Espoma and Jobe sell Soil Acidifiers. Azalea food is acidifying. Peat moss is acidifying, but is not renewable and not sustainable. Leaf mulch is the best sub for peat moss as a substrate, its pH is not as low as peat moss but is below 6, and it's free to make.

@@brahmeshvaram2862 Thats an awesome summary, I use pine needles/mulch and apply a new layer each year. I have lots of leaves so will also consider that option as well. Thanks for the valuable info and taking the time to share it.

@@EasyGardenHacks O thanks a lot, Phil

Hi@@brahmeshvaram2862 , great research and info, bang on and well described, thanks for adding this valuable content, much appreciated

Hi thats great to hear, I bet you are getting really good by now, some people make lots of money selling split wood. Thanks for watching and the super cool comment

Hi gil lots of us canadians sure try to be helpful...and polite, lol, thanks for watching

Hi Don really good question, I have not researched if there are any tests but I did come up with a bit more info that might help. Foliar spray and root absorption are two different methods of applying nutrients or treatments to plants. Application: This method involves spraying a liquid solution directly onto the leaves of a plant. Absorption: Nutrients are absorbed through the stomata (tiny pores) on the leaf surface, as well as through the epidermis (outer layer of cells) of the leaves. Advantages: -Quick absorption: Nutrients can be rapidly taken up by the plant. -Bypasses soil-related issues: Useful when the soil is compacted, waterlogged, or nutrient-deficient. -Effective for micronutrient application. Considerations: -Timing is crucial: It's often more effective when applied in the early morning or late afternoon when the stomata are open. -Can potentially cause leaf burn or damage if applied in strong sunlight or at high concentrations. Application: Nutrients or treatments are applied directly to the soil or growing medium, where they are taken up by the plant's roots. Absorption: Roots absorb water and nutrients through osmosis and active transport. Advantages: -Sustained supply: Provides a continuous source of nutrients as the roots take them up over time. -Less risk of leaf damage: Since it doesn't involve direct contact with leaves, it's less likely to cause burn or damage. -Suitable for nutrient-rich, well-draining soils. Considerations: -Slower uptake: Absorption through the roots can be slower compared to foliar absorption. -Soil condition matters: If the soil is compacted, waterlogged, or nutrient-deficient, root absorption may be less effective. Thanks for watching and your question/comment

Hi sydney had to look up ASMR very cool term thanks for the comment and watching

Your welcome thanks for watching and your comment

Thanks for watching and the comment

Hi dont know, who? Im using vinegar which is not bleach. Thanks for watching and your comments. Why dont you let us know of some of those many non toxic alternatives you mentioned but did not describe.

Hi here are a couple ideas you can consider, I have not tried all of them so cant tell you which is best... Use Acidic Potting Mix: Start by using an acidic potting mix specifically designed for the types of plants you're growing. These mixes are formulated with materials that naturally lower soil pH, such as peat moss, pine bark, and perlite. Sulfur: Elemental sulfur is a commonly used amendment to lower soil pH over time. It reacts with soil bacteria to produce sulfuric acid, which gradually acidifies the soil. Follow the package instructions for the proper amount to add based on your soil type and desired pH level. Keep in mind that sulfur takes time to work, so this is a gradual process. Ammonium-Based Fertilizers: Fertilizers containing ammonium-based nitrogen sources can help lower pH over time as well. Ammonium ions released during the breakdown of these fertilizers can increase soil acidity. However, be cautious with the amount of fertilizer you use to avoid over-fertilization. Organic Matter: Incorporating organic matter like compost and well-rotted manure can help lower soil pH slightly. These materials can also improve soil structure and nutrient availability. Mulching: Applying acidic organic mulches, such as pine needles or oak leaves, on the soil surface can contribute to gradual soil acidification as they break down. Acidifying Agents: There are commercial products available that are specifically designed to lower soil pH. These can include things like powdered sulfur, aluminum sulfate, and iron sulfate. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions when using these products Thanks for watching

@@EasyGardenHacks Thank you

Hi gregory, your totally right about the kids, need them to do the weeding as well. Thanks for watching and your comments.

Hi thanks for watching and the kind words, best of luck

Hi sammype good question I dont think I know how to grow up that far without it touching the house, my design works to about 8 feet 20 feet is really tall. Best of luck. Thanks for watching my video