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Ansel Adams didn’t shoot anything, nor did he take photographs…. Ansel made photographs.

My question is for a D7000 so not a huge difference and I hope that you might be able to answer my question. How do I replay videos on the back of the camera? Is this possible? If so, just what do I do to take a video (I can do this, I think, not entirely sure) and the difficulty is replaying the recorded video on the camera or do I need to connect it to a device (pc/laptop/tablet et al) as the only way? if you can answer my question, or even deem it within your purview. I would be most grateful if you choose to answer this question and hope that you do and that it is not too difficult for you to do so. - Mark, Australia.

The two photos clearly demonstrate the importance of the scene to start with. The Adams photo with the clouds provides a far more dramatic image, regardless of how much processing is done on the "new" image.. As the old saying went, all you need for a great photo is "F8 and be there [at the right time/place]"

How do I turn OFF self timer. Thank you!

Putting my class 10th group photo in my 5 year album :)

Hi, your explanation is excellent, simple and easy to understand. I watched the video twice and it helped me a lot

Thanks. Grt explanation

What model Epson printer are you using? Or the brand of blank printable disk?

Why no show settings of camera...😒

Useless fucking video

Thanks for such an exhaustive review. I wonder now if my SC-17 flash gun sync cord (which I've had since the 90's) which I've used on my Nikon F90/N90s and other F's will work on my D7100?

Thank you I have learnt so much watching this video.

digitally you won't be able to create the delicately feathered and seamless burning and dodging that Adams accomplished in the darkroom. He mapped his D&B plan with seconds in each area, creating a special tool for each negative. on digital manipulation you will have to use masks and they will have edges.

Ansel didn’t have a computer 😄

Hey there whats the advantage of updating it?

Thank you so so much!

Hi, I've been watching to your videos and they are great, well done.

I just came across this video series. I wish I had found it sooner (A LOT SOONER, like 8 years ago sooner). I realize it's been 8 years, but I have a question regarding the PV button. Can you help explain the set up? My PV button does nothing. I've tried reading the manual, yeah right!! Your video shows me where it is, what it is supposed to do, but not how to set it up. When I look in the view finder nothing changes. I've looked at the LCD screen and nothing changes there either. The 'Info" button lets me change a bunch of settings but I still can't figure out how to make it preview the look of the current aperture setting. Please help me if you can, thank you, thank you, thank you!!

Thanks very much!

Ansel Adams also dodged and burned his images.

Real good information!

Thank you

Can we take the picture with a phone and connect the phone to my laptop and go from there ?

I just got my camera and and I've been wary of all the buttons so thank you for the guide!

Thank you ,,,from Ireland.

Top notch video. ❤❤❤ Thanks

The good old, black and white camera was the best , just like the movies, back then,the best

What point af is the best in basketball sport?

And what type of exposure meter is this?

I do see people's exposure meter reaching +1

Perfect understanding

How is P different from A mode?

Thanks Dave!

Right. The HEIC is a step forward. Unfortunately the folks running image sites like Flickr have not gotten around to hiring a coder to help the transition. Hasselblad just added HEIC to the X2D, 10 bit files, about 25 - 30% smaller. It's an improvement.

I think red filter before the other adjustments would be much better

I am more inclined to wonder whether HEIF is stillborn. It will require much more than a technical superiority photo or computer nerds can rave about, in order to unseat a standard as entrenched as JPEG. It may be that jpeg can “only” record about 17 million different colours, but it is estimated that the human eye can distinguish “only” about 10 million. I am reminded of the way that Linux fanboys have been predicting the imminent demise of Windows ever since Linux first appeared, more than thirty years ago now.

Thank you !

Amazing description of what everything does. Thanks for making this video!

its very useful to me bro.thanks.God Bless you

Great video. Please help with focus for wildlfe walking towards you. Thanks

Ansel Adams' book trilogy(The Camera, The Negative and The Print) taught me black and white photography and darkroom processing, to the point that esteemed photographers, with a lot more experience than me, complimented my darkroom work. I still apply His technique in the digital era, albeit adapted accordingly. Thoroughly enjoyed the video. Thanks.

WOW! My name is pastor davies from nigeria....i want to say a big thank u sir for putting this up...its very resourceful....it was my first time watching a video like this on the nikon7100 camera and i really understood alot of things while watching...sir,u r really skilled in this thing!it is my prayer that God will increase ur influence in Jesus name! God bless you.

Ansel was my mentor and he did do some work in color exposuring some 5-6K sheets of film. I have a sign book of his color image besides signed books of his BnW work. I also have 14 signed prints hanging on my walls. Also he didn't always use a red filter in his work!

Huge thanks for the clarity you have brought to this subject!

STOP TO DO LIKE...!!!

Congratulations for the video. Well I've a Nikon D7100 and I noticed that the lights indicator at the bottom of the viewfinder (inside the camera not in the display) are not lighting enough, too much weak and I prefer using that reading than take out the camera of my face to check in the display, what I mean, is there a possibility to increase that lights to get it better??

Ansel Adams.....G.O.A.T

How does Nikon 5 perform in low light event conditions because I shoot for college events where I have to shoot portraits of dancers and audience ? Can I please get a review or reply on this.

Hmmm...my new AF-S28-300 is a littlt soft on my D7100 and I want to quickly review how to do it correctly. I look up this video and you totally skip it. Won't waste my time on your videos again😢

I used Adams Zone system with B&W film in the 1970s and 80s. What most today don’t realize was that the contrast of the B&W negative could be adjusted to different ranges of contrast between shadows and highlights in scenes. The same scene on a clear day might read 10 stops between textured shadows and solid white non specular highlights, but on a cloudy day it might read 8 stops and in overcast only 6. What Adams did to capture his stunning range of tone and texture was always base his exposures off a Weston IV meter reading off a Kodak 18% gray card to ensure the shadows were exposed with enough light to put density on the negative in the textured shadow, then develop the sheet of film for the time his testing and experience showed was necessary to match the highlight densities of the negative to the dynamic range of the #2 grade print paper he always used. When he started using Hasselblad camera he had different film backs he would switch depending on the contrast of the lighting which he developed for different times. By the time I started using his system 1° spot meters had been invented. Instead of metering off a gray card for shadow exposure I could meter directly off the non-void shadow areas of the shadows where I wanted detail on the print then read the brightest non-specular highlight to precisely determine the range of the scene in EV values / f/stops to know how to develop the film. Calibrating the system was just matter of shooting tests of a subject wearing black and white clothing under different lighting conditions, measuring the range between the black and white clothing, then shooting 4-5 sheets or rolls of film which were developed for different times. When the test negatives were contact printed on #2 grade paper the development time needed for that f/stop range of scene contrast was obvious because the print from the negative with the ideal time looked just like a full-range Ansel Adams print. His system was front loaded, measuring the variables exposure and lighting contrast, so the back end processing of film and making full range prints was a no-brainer. Finding iconic subject matter to reproduce that way was of course the greater challenge for someone like me living in the tabletop flat midwest 😂 The problem with trying to emulate the tonal range of a Adams print with digital is that the dynamic range of most sensors is not long enough to reproduce both highlight and shadow details in contrasty, sunny cross-lighting seen in many of his iconic scenes. That is why the practice of “exposing to the right” using the histogram became the norm with digital because viewer of the photo are less likely to notice the loss of detail in the shadows if they are small and insignificant. It is possible to duplicate Adams Zone System using a digital camera histogram by taking two exposures; one exposed “to the right” to record detail in the brightest textured highlights and a second exposed “to the left” to record shadows, blending them in post processing either automatically or using layers and masks and opening the “shadow” exposure layer where detail is desired in the shadows which is missing in the “highlight” exposure. Those trying to duplicate his dark brooding skies and glowing foliage need to understand that with panchromatic B&W film that was done at capture with yellow, orange or red filter over the lens at capture to darken the blue sky and green and blue filters to make foliage and red rocks appear lighter. That can be simulated in Photoshop by manipulating the RGB balance in the B&W conversion.