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very nice video for beginners very detailed

WHAT THE F------ ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT? YOU SAY YOUR THUMB IS DOING SOMETHING, BUT WHAT/////

pas de sous titres , donc a la benne

Thanks!!! 🙏 you’re a great teacher. I enjoyed your direct teaching method. You didn’t say anything that was not related to the instructions. Wonderful!

You keep saying that the lens was broke, but it looks like a trim piece around the lens?? Was the actual glass lens broken or not?? To me that is the main thing to worry about! And I didn't hear if the actual lens was broken?

I wonder why people don't have some kind of a camera rig or cage for photo camera? The only rigs are for video, mainly to mount things to.. But I think s lightweight carbon fiber cage around a camera and the lens would definitely protect it if was dropped and wouldn't be in the way. It would even help in something like wildlife photography. And you could set the cage down on the dirty or muddy ground if needed.

What ball head are you using?

Great video Mike. You have a great way to say things clearly. Subscribed and looking forward to viewing further videos.

Steps: Take picture with checker, make copy, crop to checker. Export it to software (or drag it in), adjust to align and fit, save it as a preset. Back in LRC, in the develop module, the preset should appear, apply it to the photo. (If it doesn't appear, restart LRC or go hunt for it in the preset library.) These steps must be done for each lighting scenario. This just calibrates color, and can be a starting point for editing.

I'm hoping to use my checker when I take photos of paintings and try to keep the original colors. So you didn't create a profile (for me, those are on the right side in the basic section), rather you created a preset in the software that you applied to the photo. I hope that's right, I'm still trying to wrap my head around the concept. I thought that the software was somehow in/a part of LRC, but it's not. Very interesting.

It is possible to make a BW-optimized profile (50 + 2 x 50 patch method) on a single sheet of paper by shrinking down the patch size to only a quarter of the paper size using the printer driver setting to print 4 pages on 1 sheet. This prints the patches on a give quadrant of your paper. Use a ruler to guide the Colormunki/i1Studio over these tiny patches. Turn around the paper and print the second patch series on the other half of the paper and you will have last quadrant left, where you can print a test image to see if the profile is properly generated. If you use the normal method like above it would take 4 sheets of paper. The 4-in-1 method saves you 3 pages of paper without quality loss.

Close ups would have been nice

The 45.7 mp D850 can be used in DX mode at 20mp so no need for a D500 . You can get to 300mm up to 750mm as well in DX at 20MP on the better D850 . D500 has one frame faster burst rate over a gripped D850 thats it.

Thank you

why dont I have the option to update? Mine just has the version listed and "done". It doesnt look like yours within firmware.

I got 2 new original nikon grips for £400 uk mint condition the l brackets are £35 uk

How do these compare (for printer profiling) to the older x-rite eye-one/i1 and x-rite i1iSis 2 ? Ive just opened a studio need to create profiles for both photo papers and sublimation setups.

Very good info. But why is there distracting music playing in the background so loud I have struggle to hear our guy talking?

A big thank you from Seattle. This video was super helpful 🙂

Wow ..Can you please do this on the new Xperias?

Thanks so much! Just what I was looking for.

Very helpful for a guy that just bought the lens. And it's gonna try and figure out if you made a mistake. Thank you for your video.

Thank You !

Hi thankyou very helpful.

Thank you so much!!! 🤝🤝🤝

Which brand of USB card reader are you using?

I don't use Lightroom where can I do this in photoshop?

Excellent tutorial! Thanks for making.

I checked the X-Rite site, every item is out of production.

9/7/2023: I've had my (used) copy for 9 days; out on shoots 3x. I paid $560; that didn't include the foot/collar, a front filter, hood (another $150 I dropped)= $710 I'm getting what I paid for....a HALF-ass telephoto that more often than not DOESN'T critically focus on moving objects. I NEVER would've paid full price. Lots of blown shots (sports type). I'll be buying a D500 body within a few months and hoping the high FPS rate will rescue this lens. I used it on a DX body...making the minimum focal distance 300mm. This is a hard lens to use if birds aren't your thing (not mine)....because it forces you to re-think everything...like almost 20ft. in front of you....isn't. WHEN it works, it's fine; not great! My copy is under-whelming for AF ("hunts"), nuts to hike with (I have) at 5#, hand holding is possible yet impractical for long periods, and...a more practical lens + tele-converter MAY be of more use/higher quality. Lastly, the zoom rotation collar is TOO long a motion for the full range. Nikon should shorten this throw. One last note- and this is another experiment....use the latest/greatest software available, such as Topaz AI or LuminarNEO to MAXIMIZE image quality...ie critical sharpening/focus.

FFS use cm, m etc. Stop imperial crap

It is really poor design of this "studio". 1st turning knob (to calibrating position and back) is utterly stiff and awkward. Fingers slip and it is easy possible to press middle button at the wrong time. They could not design more cumbersome awkward device. Than it dangles in neoprene sleeve, on a zipper, cumbersome again, than Micro USB cable reveal how old it is and is VERY sensitive to cable length, often provided cable not long enough and not working with extension, so it needs powered usb hub ... software is really basic, too. Device itself could done much more, but no options. Like reading colors from material to make sure identical colors are used in drawings.

To bad you didn't show the result against your calibrated screen...

Thank you very much. You are the only one that could explain it very clear and yo the point. 👍🏼👍🏼

lucky guy that it the camera itself was not broken! I just dropped my D850 yesterday and it is broken! I had the lens hood on too. It hit the ground hard on the right side of the camera by the control panel. Now when I take a picture it is dark in the viewfinder and doesn't want to focus or do anything and then when I take the picture its black. I can take picture just fine with FV on though. I am crying cause it's going to spendy to fix this!! As it fell from my hand I watched in slow motion and horror and then just stared at the ground and wanted to cry. Funny thing is it's supposed to be so durable and obviously fell just right to break something. I fell while my D5500 was around my neck and it crashed to the ground hard and was just fine. From now I will have my neck strap on!!!

(ATTENTION !!!! Regarding the new Calibrite PROFILER - incompatible "with the Colorchecker STUDIO" spectrometer : Despite Color PROFILER showing the Icon of the Colorchecker Studio (spectrometer hardware), as of yet August 2023, will NOT work (at least until next year, I was told by Calibrite) !!!!! ( I lost 10 precious hours (including night) trying to get it work -- Had the "troubleshooting* page at PROFILER had dedicated a paragraph to this "issue" that would not have happened. Granted... if one looks in details on can, here and there, "understand" that Colorchecker Studio" (the most expensive of the bunch) would not work. But the little clarity and warning is clearly very much NASTY. At least they could make the ICON disappear from the Profiler software and let it reapear with un update once it works with Studio. (since now it will stay grayed-out for-ever, whatever you do (subscribe, install-unsinstall CCStudio from all instances and taskbar etc-clean-install...restart-etc all over again in other sequence...)

Very helpful. But one question - the device directions suggest waiting 10 minutes before scanning the color patches; others 3:47 suggest waiting up to the next day. You seemed to scan immediately after printing. Can you please comment. Thank you.

Thank you for a good review I just got it to my D850 to use until I can afford a 2nd 400mmF2.8 E FL or G VR lens

The picture control setting obviously has no effect on RAW data. But when the camera saves a preview image inside the raw file, does the picture control setting affect the way that the preview looks like? Or, when I use Adobe DNG converter to generate an embedded preview image, does DNG converter make the preview according to the picture control setting? Is there any way to change is afterwards?

This lens don't have problem with Nikon DSLR or other brands. But for mirrorless it have some small issue, I used with Nikon Z5 , automatically it showed you need to set lens to F22 manually. Then used your camera to control the apertures setting. as what Barr said .

I use my datacolor cube for clog for c100 mkii. I set grey to 33 percent and pop this cube into video then remove. Set white balance with grey card and record. Then bring this into davanci resolve studio and use the color controls and mask out black dot. Set it to full black. Move to highlight white face and set white to 95 percent on wav form monitor and use gamma to bring middle grey to 50 percent. Amazing results with canon clog! The pre supplied lut for clog to rec 709 does not convert like the datacube does. Results is nice bright video with no noise in shadows and white highlights are perfect. I know this product is for photos but no one talks about clog and bringing colors back to rec709 for video!

' SPITON! 'NYKON' It is pronounced nik on, sit on, sin on, shit on, sick on, tick on, piss on, prick on, dick on, lick on mo ron Ameri con!! WHY do you maul the world's finest language till it is no longer understandable?

Really?

Mike.. Nikon D7500 how to setup date display on the pictures after. Thank you

I have a nikon f3 film camera ,,, do u think this lens would work with that camera ???

It is quite crutial to mention that you have to (at least) pay attention to the printer's driver settings - meaning the "Advanced settings" / "More settings" etc button in the print dialog. Most printers have further color settings there and often include some sort of "smart color enhance" feature that might possibly mess up the calibration result. Unless intended othewise, you should turn any color manipulation off in there and save those driver settings and use them when printing with the profile you will create.

Thank you , right to the point…!

Mike....you're the first person who has been able to explain how Auto ISO works, in a way I could understand. Brilliant. Thanks so much. I know it's an old video but people are still benefitting from it 👍

Complete rip off product that survives due to ignorance is bliss. When I hear him say "My monitor is calibrated" after ONE thing - a brightness check. Video calibration is real stuff and toys like this really do damage to it. What people don't know they are missing is all of the actual important calibrations. There is a reason Sencore calibration tools were so expensive - when you see that nice triangle showing your monitors color range - Sencore steps in and continues with color calibration - the exact thing I thought I was getting with Spyder. Sencore will show you the color accurate triangle, it will show you your triangle, how your RGB is off, and then you slowly adjust each color to move it into the accurate location. That is calibrated to a standard. Spyder is like those cheap DVDs you'd buy that came with the little translucent colored plastic strip you would have to hold over your eye and adjust till one box blended into another box - the whole POINT of a calibration tool is that the tool is supposed to now do that. Spyder threw me a blue box on both my monitors that looked miles apart after the one dinky brightness setting - and then wanted ME to drag RGBP and Gamma sliders around till "I think" the colors match. One - I couldn't do it - no setting on any slider got me remotely near common colors - and Two - it's supposed to tell ME if I need to raise or lower a color, why is it asking ME? If you have the Sencore you realize there is a whole nother world of calibration - the Sencore will tell you exactly what to do with each color - and will go well beyond primary colors if the technicians menu of the display gives you access. I can't begin to convey how little the Spyder really does but I can try with an audio analogy as usually people big into video appreciate audio as well. Spyder is like a surround system with an equalizer that only adjusts 4 frequencies - and with 4 frequency adjustments you simply won't be able to correct some things. At a minimum you'd expect 8 - and Sencore would be like an EQ with 64 adjustments, an entire mixer board. I will be returning it (I just got it today so my review is fresh) but after using it I can say at $260 it did no better than I could do with the old $15 calibration DVD and plastic strip - the mere fact that a tool that is supposed to be calibrating to "some standard" is asking me to eyeball it feels ... I dunno insulting from a calibration device.

This was so helpful, clear, concise, with a really easy to understand explanation . Thanks Mike the best.