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I tarped under the main area, which helps, and I had the big filtered exhaust fan which helped too. You do get a fair bit elsewhere, but it lands as "dust" moreso than sticking like actual overspray, so that's a little easier to clean up with a broom or a leafblower. There's still pockets of white dust in places a few years later though. 😆

Glad they helped get things over the hump - they do drive nice with the Sniper once it's settled in.

There are bell housing bolts that land behind the flywheel, so you need to do the housing first. Luckily it's not too bad to get the flywheel and clutch in after the fact, (at least while the engine is out).

I used a mix of an old blasting cabinet from Craigslist for small parts, and just a portable gun and a bucket for the bigger stuff. It was just a cheapie off of Amazon - took up a little less room in the garage than a canister one.

If you mean the ones I used as a makeshift metal brake, they're takeoffs out of something like a big wood chipper.

​@@lonewolfworks yep those are the ones… I wish they were easily accessible

Finally getting some time to edit the last few videos, hopefully a little progress this week. Unfortunately, I only have pictures for the early work, no video...it was a winter teardown in the uninsulated garage with a construction heater roaring away. May be able to do a bit of a voiceover to some of it, though.

I did, my apologies - the 40 is all together and doing well, but a job change and house project interrupted the video editing side of things. Trying to get back at it shortly, though!

I did, but it's a pretty minor difference so there's probably other ways to get there. I just used this spacer from Amazon, but then cut to length. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009Q737JY/

Hopefully a few of the tips help it go a bit easier!

@@lonewolfworks absolutely will…. In fact, this is my 3rd time watching it …great instructional series you have

All the freeze plugs got replaced when it was down to the bare block (and head). They were probably ok, but good to do after 40+ years in service.

Much appreciated!

I just used a standard tap from a tap and die set, with a bit of extra care on alignment into the existing threads.

⁠@@lonewolfworksnice. I’m starting to finally work on mine soon. Super long-time owner, now the sill and quarter corners need metal work. Thanks for your videos and the reply!

I pulled the glass out with the doors on the bench, but reinstalled it with the doors hung back on the body. No real issues doing it after hanging.

I did a basic 2" spacer for the typical 6 bolt pattern, works decently...just a cheapo from Amazon. Since the tire is pushed out, you do need good bushings and rubber bumpers on the carrier, and the carrier adjusted well against the door to avoid any extra flex from the added leverage.

Mine were snug but no issues. I think my pins and bushings were from Specter/SOR, though. They worked on the windshield hinges as well.

I think I just fabbed up some "horseshoes" out of some of the leftover bodywork steel. That let me drop them in from above with the bolt in place, vs fiddling with fender washers or the like.

Glad it helps, even just for motivation to help another 40. I don't know for sure on the hours, but my guess is probably somewhere around 1500-1800 hours...but I did end up touching pretty much everything but the transmission. I started pulling it apart Nov 5 2020, and the last interior bits went on Oct 22 202. I was able to put in quite a few hours most days, although winter was a bit slower with an unheated shop/garage.

I think I used a bit of more "typical" seam sealer that I had left from doing the underside of the tub. (The type that's more like caulk, vs the self-leveling kind used in the gutter)

Copy thanks

It ended up being about a tube and a half, unfortunately. One pack would be a little short. The leftovers did seal up well, I used it later so at least it doesn't go to waste.

@@lonewolfworks OK thanks! Spent about four hours on it sanding and prepping today. Do you just put a big bead right down the middle?

Ordered two tubes and the applicator gun today. Spendy stuff but I suppose it should last.

As I was doing the prep work, I was able to get down to the original factory finish underneath the two prior repaints, and it was originally Cygnus White paint over the fiberglass. I followed that same path - it also helps finish the full cap as one color as the metal drip edge and visor need paint as well as the seam sealer where the rail meets the cap.

It took a bit more than one "tube" would do, about 1 and a half - so you need two packs/tubes. Luckily the leftovers sealed up well, so I was able to still use it later for other projects.

I used these from McMaster - technically the factory rivets had a rounded/domed head. I mis-ordered the flat head style, but they laid down nice anyway. Aluminum Flat Head Solid Rivets 1/8" Diameter, for 0.313" Maximum Material Thickness 97481A125

@@lonewolfworks Thanks for the reply. It didn't look like you used a pneumatic rivet tool...what tool did you use?

I did a simple homemade bucking tool by welding a stub to a pair of flat-mouth vice grips. I actually followed the idea from the 40-Channel from the land down under.

@@lonewolfworks Sorry to bug you again but I am working on my hardtop also. How much of the 3M sealer did you end up using? You recommended not removing the front metal visor that is riveted to the hard top...I am doing the same. Typically the visor is painted the body color...did you just paint yours white or Cygnus to match the body? Thanks again!

Looks like it was Slip-n-Grip, but I'd wager there's quite a few variants of that shipping/transport wrap: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SELOEWW/ Any extra photos would be on the IH8MUD forum, there's a thread there: forum.ih8mud.com/threads/family-fj-build-76-40-resto-frame-off-a-k-a-the-japanese-baby-buggy.1241981/

Just realized this is 11 mo old! 😁

All good. :-D The last mile takes a bit, but it's a good feeling when it's all back together. And I still need to edit the final couple videos...other things got in the way!

It was a fairly fine black oxide. Regulating the air also helps from creating heat and warping panels, although my garage setup is nowhere near the capability of the commerical rigs, so the risk there is less.

Glad they help, hopefully they can keep a few more on the road.

Sorry, I'm not a shop - just a hobby for me here. Industrial/truck shops can be a good option, as they're used to working the bigger inline 6s, and the 2F was used in forklifts as well.

The wheel studs pass through the rotor and press fit into the hub, pinching the two together.

@@lonewolfworks awesome thanks. Did you just use a punch from the hub side to get them apart?

I was installing new/longer studs for aluminum wheels, and I had an air hammer handy so I used that since it didn't matter if I damaged the stud threads. A larger brass hammer or a hammer and punch should work, though.

Informative video, my question, using steel wheels, oem bolts, and “GM calipers” what wheels are out here on the with enough back spacing to clear the calipers?

That definitely helps to get the new gaskets to close until they "seat" and form a bit to the body.

Good luck on your knuckles!

I did actually put a very light bead of Sikaflex 291 LOT (long open time) on the gutter rail between the glass before riveting. Probably not needed given the self leveling sealer on top, but didn't hurt.

Hopefully it helps...tried to share what I could, but like most things, some days went better than others. :-D

They're worn blades taken off of a larger-sized wood chipper if I recall - works out well as they're hardened, and they have a square side as well as a narrow/tapered side.

I thought about something like LineX, but opted for the more OEM angle and just kept the paint all around. It does have epoxy primer underneath, which should hold up well enough even if the color coat gets a chip or two.

It's all wrapped up, but I do still need to edit the final video wrapping up the last-last bits of door assembly. Got tied up with other work in the summertime, but back to some editing with the snow on the ground here now.

It was one of those days that didn't go at all as planned (I hadn't planned on splitting the cap)...figuring out the new plan while working and filming didn't go smoothly, one of those things. I've tried to share what I could along the way while getting work done...filming while working is a task in itself. My hat is off to those that can do it consistently well as it does make most jobs take 2-3 times as long as normal, aside from the time later spent editing.

It's been a while, and I would've adjusted a bit to account for the condition of the door metal...but my guess is that it would've been around that 15V/200-225WFS with the 035 wire (depending on 16ga or 18ga).