Need to post an update on my channel. But I am getting close to start to sandblast and paint the first bits and bobs aswell. Although I am miiiles behind you.
It took a bit more than one "tube" would do, about 1 and a half - so you need two packs/tubes. Luckily the leftovers sealed up well, so I was able to still use it later for other projects.
I did actually put a very light bead of Sikaflex 291 LOT (long open time) on the gutter rail between the glass before riveting. Probably not needed given the self leveling sealer on top, but didn't hurt.
I think I used a bit of more "typical" seam sealer that I had left from doing the underside of the tub. (The type that's more like caulk, vs the self-leveling kind used in the gutter)
Hey, good morning. Wondering if you ended up using both of those tubes of epoxy sealer or if you were able to get away with one? Kind of spendy when you have to buy the gun as well.
It ended up being about a tube and a half, unfortunately. One pack would be a little short. The leftovers did seal up well, I used it later so at least it doesn't go to waste.
As I was doing the prep work, I was able to get down to the original factory finish underneath the two prior repaints, and it was originally Cygnus White paint over the fiberglass. I followed that same path - it also helps finish the full cap as one color as the metal drip edge and visor need paint as well as the seam sealer where the rail meets the cap.
I used these from McMaster - technically the factory rivets had a rounded/domed head. I mis-ordered the flat head style, but they laid down nice anyway. Aluminum Flat Head Solid Rivets 1/8" Diameter, for 0.313" Maximum Material Thickness 97481A125
I did a simple homemade bucking tool by welding a stub to a pair of flat-mouth vice grips. I actually followed the idea from the 40-Channel from the land down under.
@@lonewolfworks Sorry to bug you again but I am working on my hardtop also. How much of the 3M sealer did you end up using? You recommended not removing the front metal visor that is riveted to the hard top...I am doing the same. Typically the visor is painted the body color...did you just paint yours white or Cygnus to match the body? Thanks again!
Looking great!
Was definitely glad I went all the way through it...rust can even hide on a fiberglass cap!
Wooow, the shine on that roof...
Some elbow grease and fresh paint works wonders!
Need to post an update on my channel. But I am getting close to start to sandblast and paint the first bits and bobs aswell. Although I am miiiles behind you.
Lookin good mate
Last of the painting... finally. 😅
@@lonewolfworks. Looking forward to seeing it complete, great inspiration for my build
How much of the 3M sealer did you use? Thanks for the help...great work!
It took a bit more than one "tube" would do, about 1 and a half - so you need two packs/tubes. Luckily the leftovers sealed up well, so I was able to still use it later for other projects.
Did you use any sealant between the gutter and the fiberglass roof please?
I did actually put a very light bead of Sikaflex 291 LOT (long open time) on the gutter rail between the glass before riveting. Probably not needed given the self leveling sealer on top, but didn't hurt.
What product did you use filling the gap between the side rail and the windshield rail? Stock was some form of pliable putty on mine?
I think I used a bit of more "typical" seam sealer that I had left from doing the underside of the tub. (The type that's more like caulk, vs the self-leveling kind used in the gutter)
Copy thanks
Hey, good morning. Wondering if you ended up using both of those tubes of epoxy sealer or if you were able to get away with one? Kind of spendy when you have to buy the gun as well.
It ended up being about a tube and a half, unfortunately. One pack would be a little short. The leftovers did seal up well, I used it later so at least it doesn't go to waste.
@@lonewolfworks OK thanks! Spent about four hours on it sanding and prepping today. Do you just put a big bead right down the middle?
Ordered two tubes and the applicator gun today. Spendy stuff but I suppose it should last.
Why did you use paint instead of gel coat?
As I was doing the prep work, I was able to get down to the original factory finish underneath the two prior repaints, and it was originally Cygnus White paint over the fiberglass. I followed that same path - it also helps finish the full cap as one color as the metal drip edge and visor need paint as well as the seam sealer where the rail meets the cap.
What rivets did you use? Thanks
I used these from McMaster - technically the factory rivets had a rounded/domed head. I mis-ordered the flat head style, but they laid down nice anyway.
Aluminum Flat Head Solid Rivets
1/8" Diameter, for 0.313" Maximum Material Thickness
97481A125
@@lonewolfworks Thanks for the reply. It didn't look like you used a pneumatic rivet tool...what tool did you use?
I did a simple homemade bucking tool by welding a stub to a pair of flat-mouth vice grips. I actually followed the idea from the 40-Channel from the land down under.
@@lonewolfworks Sorry to bug you again but I am working on my hardtop also. How much of the 3M sealer did you end up using? You recommended not removing the front metal visor that is riveted to the hard top...I am doing the same. Typically the visor is painted the body color...did you just paint yours white or Cygnus to match the body? Thanks again!