Great work on this; I am taking mental notes along the way. I am doing a 75 currently and just starting on some of the metal repair. Did you mention that you were able to find replacement heat shield for the trans cover? Did you vapor blast your transfer case, or just paint it with aluminum paint? Did you cadmium your bolts and accessories or purchase them like that? Can you let me know where you found your OEM tank? Also I was watching your welding techniques on the plugs; what settings did you use on your Miller; is it (110 or 230), I am a novice and keep blowing holes through the practice metal. (Liked and subscribed!!)
Hope it all helps - they're a fun project but a fair bit of work. * The topside trans "heatshield" was all still intact on mine (thankfully). I did add some new heatshield on the underside, fairly common silver adhesive backed shielding. * I soda-blasted the transfer case with my portable bucket-blaster, but then painted it with the alu' paint to hold up a bit better. * I setup a plating bucket for the small stuff - I got the "CopyCad" rinse from Caswell, but the zinc plating setup was just my own setup using a bench power supply and vinegar, salt, and zinc strips. * I searched the OEM part number across dealers with online ordering, and found the one with a shipping discount for the cheapest spot. The cheapest was out of Kansas at the time if I recall...but no rhyme or reason. A local Toyota dealer may be worth a check too. * I don't recall exact settings, it's been a bit - it's a Miller that does 110 or 220v supply, but for bodywork the 110v input is plenty (220 just helps the duty cycle). Guessing you need to drop it down a bit, or work in smaller increments...bodywork is good to minimize heat, so longer runs of welding are rarer anyway vs zap-zap-zapping along. Fitment would be the other check - if the gap is too wide, that'll want to blow out a bit, too.
Indeed - I did pretty good covering my bases on the pre-fit front, but didn't do the trans tunnel cover. I assumed it would just fit, but that was a bad assumption. 😆 The EVAP line was an interesting one, I'm not sure I'd ever catch that one in pre-assembly...but luckily minor. Hopefully it helps someone else in the future.
Just subbed. Where in the states are u from?
Thanks for riding along...up in northern WI here, in the land of rust repair from road salt. 😆
Great work on this; I am taking mental notes along the way. I am doing a 75 currently and just starting on some of the metal repair. Did you mention that you were able to find replacement heat shield for the trans cover? Did you vapor blast your transfer case, or just paint it with aluminum paint? Did you cadmium your bolts and accessories or purchase them like that? Can you let me know where you found your OEM tank?
Also I was watching your welding techniques on the plugs; what settings did you use on your Miller; is it (110 or 230), I am a novice and keep blowing holes through the practice metal. (Liked and subscribed!!)
Hope it all helps - they're a fun project but a fair bit of work.
* The topside trans "heatshield" was all still intact on mine (thankfully). I did add some new heatshield on the underside, fairly common silver adhesive backed shielding.
* I soda-blasted the transfer case with my portable bucket-blaster, but then painted it with the alu' paint to hold up a bit better.
* I setup a plating bucket for the small stuff - I got the "CopyCad" rinse from Caswell, but the zinc plating setup was just my own setup using a bench power supply and vinegar, salt, and zinc strips.
* I searched the OEM part number across dealers with online ordering, and found the one with a shipping discount for the cheapest spot. The cheapest was out of Kansas at the time if I recall...but no rhyme or reason. A local Toyota dealer may be worth a check too.
* I don't recall exact settings, it's been a bit - it's a Miller that does 110 or 220v supply, but for bodywork the 110v input is plenty (220 just helps the duty cycle). Guessing you need to drop it down a bit, or work in smaller increments...bodywork is good to minimize heat, so longer runs of welding are rarer anyway vs zap-zap-zapping along. Fitment would be the other check - if the gap is too wide, that'll want to blow out a bit, too.
Great add for pre fitting everything before painting, i feel your disappointment but all up she's coming along nice
Indeed - I did pretty good covering my bases on the pre-fit front, but didn't do the trans tunnel cover. I assumed it would just fit, but that was a bad assumption. 😆 The EVAP line was an interesting one, I'm not sure I'd ever catch that one in pre-assembly...but luckily minor. Hopefully it helps someone else in the future.
@@lonewolfworks It will definitely make me think about a lot more things when i get to that stage. Doing a 79 bj40 in Australia
Le vendo auto partes para toyota nuevas Colombia
Um um um how many times can you say that in one video you make it to where I can’t even watch your videos I have to put it on mute