It’s important to call these a “40”. The “FJ” is the thing they made in the 2000s. THIS is a legend! 💪🏼 Great work, I was almost SURE you were a body guy or welder, etc.
It's work, but doable...luckily the 40s are pretty simple body-wise. Happy to have mine back on the road, now to catch up on the video editing - more to come soon. Needed to get all the paint work done before the cold set back in!
Wow amazing work and great overview of techniques etc…. Any frame work needed? My tub has some rust repair I’ve been slowly been addressing and procrastinating on… but the rusty frame makes me wonder if my efforts are worth it…. I figure if I can just keep it alive and loved then I’ve done my job, not investing a slew of money to do a proper resto.
Appreciate it...mine did need work on the frame on the rear where the "knee" is on both sides, and I needed to redo the frame tails near the rear bumper. It was reworked once before around '88 to replace the rear bumper once, and it was due again...salt is hard on them up here in WI. I decided to box in the rear tails as well to add some support. The frame work goes a little faster than the bodywork, if you've got access. There's some of the frame info on a thread on the IH8Mud forums, it was a bit cold during winter to film the frame repairs, but there are at least some photos: bit.ly/3owiaM2
Just a budget shrinker-stretcher...this one came with both dies (one set to shrink, one to stretch). If I had more room, I'd get a foot operated one, but this did the deed. www.amazon.com/dp/B015U5A2HU
I ended up using 18ga to match the original flange thickness. They had a step/lap joint before the curve to join the straight run and the rear, so using 18ga let it tuck back in the way it should.
They're worn blades taken off of a larger-sized wood chipper if I recall - works out well as they're hardened, and they have a square side as well as a narrow/tapered side.
I used a mix of an old blasting cabinet from Craigslist for small parts, and just a portable gun and a bucket for the bigger stuff. It was just a cheapie off of Amazon - took up a little less room in the garage than a canister one.
It’s important to call these a “40”. The “FJ” is the thing they made in the 2000s. THIS is a legend! 💪🏼
Great work, I was almost SURE you were a body guy or welder, etc.
Awesome work and such a guide for future FJ Owners , thanks
Awesome video! Subscribed for more. I have a ‘72 FJ-40 that needs some body work. Was nice to watch your progress, and thorough videography.
It's work, but doable...luckily the 40s are pretty simple body-wise. Happy to have mine back on the road, now to catch up on the video editing - more to come soon. Needed to get all the paint work done before the cold set back in!
Your hired. My FJ needs your help. Great work especially with minimal tools.
Just found your video, very nice work, instantly subscribed, love the shortys, my first car as a young bloke, cheers from Australia 👍😎
Thanks, welcome...they are a fun rig, I grew up driving this one as well. Good vehicles to learn manual in with the low gears and the straight 6!
Awesome work!
Man you do awesome work for a noob.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while... 😄
Great Video mate!
Wow amazing work and great overview of techniques etc…. Any frame work needed? My tub has some rust repair I’ve been slowly been addressing and procrastinating on… but the rusty frame makes me wonder if my efforts are worth it…. I figure if I can just keep it alive and loved then I’ve done my job, not investing a slew of money to do a proper resto.
Appreciate it...mine did need work on the frame on the rear where the "knee" is on both sides, and I needed to redo the frame tails near the rear bumper. It was reworked once before around '88 to replace the rear bumper once, and it was due again...salt is hard on them up here in WI. I decided to box in the rear tails as well to add some support. The frame work goes a little faster than the bodywork, if you've got access. There's some of the frame info on a thread on the IH8Mud forums, it was a bit cold during winter to film the frame repairs, but there are at least some photos: bit.ly/3owiaM2
Good...
From Indonesian
Well done.
Nice! Thanks for posting mate. What is the device Allee that you use to shrink and curve the angle ? Cheers
Just a budget shrinker-stretcher...this one came with both dies (one set to shrink, one to stretch). If I had more room, I'd get a foot operated one, but this did the deed. www.amazon.com/dp/B015U5A2HU
sorry if i missed it.......but do you remember if you used 16 ga or 18 ga steel for the curved braces you bent at the beginning of the video? Thanks
I ended up using 18ga to match the original flange thickness. They had a step/lap joint before the curve to join the straight run and the rear, so using 18ga let it tuck back in the way it should.
You’re in WI? Seriously interested in repairing the bottoms of my doors? I’m up there all the time for work
Where did you source the steel bars used a metal bending brake?
They're worn blades taken off of a larger-sized wood chipper if I recall - works out well as they're hardened, and they have a square side as well as a narrow/tapered side.
Sorry for the questions but what sand blaster are you using??
I used a mix of an old blasting cabinet from Craigslist for small parts, and just a portable gun and a bucket for the bigger stuff. It was just a cheapie off of Amazon - took up a little less room in the garage than a canister one.
What kind of blades those??
If you mean the ones I used as a makeshift metal brake, they're takeoffs out of something like a big wood chipper.
@@lonewolfworks yep those are the ones… I wish they were easily accessible