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Thank you for taking us on your journey. I haven't done anything close to what you have done, but could you just get rid of the entire wheel well? Will the ride height remain the same? What do you think, does it instead take too much time and work to design and manufacture some kind of diffuser, or a slightly rising floor at least there. Does that suit the style at all?

I ended up using a few gals of evaporust for random stuff around the car like the seat brackets and stuff its great if you have a big ol storage bucket that's wide and shallow I kept it around for like 5 months and just kept using it, I still did have to clean stuff with a strip disk but you know the inside has been hit as well

What engine you going with when this is all said and done it better be an RB with that intro lol

How much is a replacement wheel well? I think for me that would determine if I bought one or patched it. I had good experience with Evaporust, but I used it on body mounts and hardware, mostly. That roof skin was a lucky find! I did a roof replacement on my old S10 pickup (It came cut for a convertible top conversion) and I cut the outer sheet metal away so I could weld the inner pieces together, and then weld tthe outer sheet metal back on over it. This gave me 3 weld points that were staggered....but the rear wall was warped and I ended up finding a deal on a new cab, so I can't tell you how it was structurally.

Spare tire well resurrected classics…all brand new metal just weld in

Blox gear looks good!! Roof looks good!! Keep the wheel well! Let’s go😊

Don't buy that, it doesn't work ( Rust-oleum RUST DISSOLVER GEL) Use this for 24 hours and you will see the results. I'm also repairing my Datsun😊😊

What if you soaked shop towels or rags with the evaporust, laid them out in the areas you want to treat, then cover those with plastic to keep them from drying out so bad?

love the video! have you thought about a older mustang tank where its a top flange mount ?

I’m excited to see an update, what a great deal on the roof skin. Jimmy Oakes has a video replacing just the roof skin but it’s for an s13, check it out. There are probably a lot of similarities that also apply to the z. With the spare tire well I think it would be cool if you just cut out the bottom and made it deeper to fit your aftermarket wheels so you can have a spare.

Brother, Ospho by Skyco is your friend. It will take that rust right up. Better for dipping, at least that's what I use it for, however applying it on with a brush is good too. Leave it on over night, wash with WD40. It will turn that rust to gunmetal gray. youtube Kris Clark , he has a video on this stuff. It really is amazing, so give it a shot! Also, don't remove the undercoating under the car if its good. According to Wick Humble, author of the excellent book 'How to restore your Datsun Zcar', he says to leave the undercoating alone on there if there is no evidence of cancer and rot, and to only repair and replace the areas that have the rust damage. And he also states that Nissan put the undercoat on there more for the purposes of sound insulation and not for rust. And the rust that you removed from the spare tire area had near perfect metal underneath, that's pretty good to last for over 40 years. It did its job well even it was for another purpose. Also, Surface Shield is excellent to apply to areas underneath. Great project Z. Keep it up! 💯

Take another road trip, out to California, and find a decent tub replacement. If it was mine, I'd put a flat sheet of metal down with some beads, and run a fuel cell. If your not gonna run a spare, why not.

Evaporust is good for dipping rusty parts. You need a rust converter for any remaining rust after you wire brushed......

Nice video again! Liked the road trip part❤. Is it possible to find a whole new wheel well? Shaping the well seems challenging. As for the roof skin, I would keep it as much factory as possible. Not having a sunroof luckily gives you back some rigidity though. In the C pillar there is a seam where the roof skin is welded. On old cars it is filled with lead. Jared Pink of Questionable Garage recently featured it in a video of his '70 sport satellite project. You should check that out. Good luck!

When adjusting panel gaps, you can make a cut close to the edge and shift the edge over, then weld up the cut, rather than adding a bead to the edge.

Should not cut and weld on a body line. If you went an inch or more below the line, you can hammer and dolly it and you wouldn’t have to grind and shape the body line or use a bunch of filler.

Great content as usual. Love the work you're doing, and being a novice myself digging through sheet metal on a 69 mustang, I appreciate seeing all the headaches you find and lessons learned. You should reach out to the company who's making the skin and offer to do a review/fitment video for then

Great to see the sub numbers slowly climbing. Great channel, I’ll be with ya still when you hit the 100k.

Use seam sealer on the back side and move on!

I have seen welding welding-rod on to the edge of a great way to keep a good panel gap with a clean edge

Wow, that went smooth. Well done sir! I wouldn't touch the weld seams too much in the inside. A coat of epoxy primer is enough in my opinion, the seam sealer would be satisfying though.

Do yourself a favour…. Ear protection!

Between you and automotive mindset I’ve gotten all of the information that I don’t know I need to do this on a realistic level, love your videos and making them comprehensible

👍👍. to the added welding to the body gap. Turned out perfect. Realistic solutions to problems.

That definitely went better. Nice job!

Great info and video. You're giving the confidence and knowledge to tackle my rust spots. Keep up the good work brother.

Real progress Bryan, be interesting to see how much the steel roof panel costs.. you’ll soon be on the mechanicals which I’m really looking forward to 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

Great job! I finally broke down and got a rotiserie from FB Marketplace. I'm getting too old to be working upside-down on my 510. The Z is next. I learn something from you every time.

Which company is bringing out the roof skin?

I’ll be doing this soon! Love to see it!

I guess I’ll take second

First comment. 😂 haha. Childish I know.

Brian- I have been watching your videos for many months now- you have some of the most informative and interesting content that I have seen! I am currently restoring a 240Z that is in really tough shape, so you have been giving me a lot of inspiration. Please keep the great content coming! Thanks again.

i went to klassic fab and i couldn't find my car or even your 280z panels. did you have to order it custom from them?

I love how you show your mistakes, other youtubers just skip that and pretend it went all well. Take us with you in your learning curve and we will learn as wel. Thank you!

I've never seen you anything other than calm and laid back. I didn't think it was possible to rattle you. Nice work man.

Nicely done

Also thinking, would it be better to leave that support piece intact when doing tthe front side rust repair, and replacing the support after so it keeps it's shape better?

I don't know. I know Klassic Fab from the VW world, and they had a rep for fitting really well...which they should for what they cost. They were (in some cases) like several times the price of the say, Klokkerholm budget panels. *I'd* have had pretty high expectations. Good you could make it work.

Chemical strip, outside. Over a tarp. Looks good. Agreed, you should have used the entire green panel. But we all make mistakes. I make a mistake every time I wake up and show up for work! Excited to start seeing the go fast stuff

Loving your work bro 👏👏

At the start, at around 6.03 mins, you removed the door bracing and let the car hang at both ends upright. This would bow it in the center and would have contributed to those panels not lining properly. You can weld two bracings on the inside and then remove the door A pillar bracing.

I could absolutely tell how frustrating this one was. Wheel wells and curves on fenders are very difficult. Good work not getting so frustrated that you just did a poor job. I think it looks good. I would also cut out a much larger piece and find ways to hide seams of the welds on flat surfaces versus curves (I tried to do this on my car, but I did not take enough time to get it perfect and I can still see my seams). As for stripping the car, I would try chemical on a small area and see how it lifts, if it works do that, if not move to abrasives. If you try to use abrasive after chemicals it gunk's up tools and it even more gross to deal with. Good work man

rustoleum rust converter ,opflo works they both turn the rust black and are paintable

Love it when these vids come out!!!

After watch comment. I’m learning from you. I think what I’ve learned is any time I can make the cuts a straight line is best, parallel to the body lines. So I only have to line up one angle/plane. Vs a compound cut that brings multiple body lines into play. Also just keep going. It all works out in the end.😊

You did great. I would’ve made 10 times the mistakes. Glad to see the sub count still rising.

Should be a pretty simple process. Love you bro!!! Look forward to seeing how it goes. This is my before I watch comment!!

But.......in the end you kicked it's butt...👍👍. Right on. Good work.

Found you on Reddit Aug 08, 2024. Can't wait to binge watch all these vids!