I'm in the process of rebuilding a rusted mk3 golf running gear. It was so rusted it was like it was on the bottom of the ocean. I used bilt hamber deox c to dissolve the rust. It really works well, it gets into the rust pits. Your filler neck bucket would have been all clean if you dumped it in a tank with deox c. There is a gel too for larger items.
Use glass bead (80 grit) from harbor freight. They also have a bigger spot blaster that works amazing with the glass bead. Working on a 71 series 1 240z my self. Great work. Keep the videos coming. 😀
A rust converter will help you remove deep rust (phosphoric acid 30-40%). The filler neck would be butt welded to the flange of the gas tank flap opening. And eternity would envy this place.))
Sucks the angle iron didn’t work for the flange. That would have been a sick idea. Still turned out great. You’re better than me, I think I would have left it to begin with. You made the right decision though
I think I could've made the angle iron thing work if I redid it with a different offset but I was over it at that point. One of the problems is that this sheet metal is so thick. 18ga is way thicker than the OEM metal and much harder to bend.
good job, i use deoxidine and a wire wheel on drill, time consuming but you can get, every bit of rust out if u keep at it, i hate sand, doesn't matter how many times u spin the rotisserie sand seems to come from somewhere.
It turned out really good. But I think you could save a lot of fab work by using a good rust converter treatment. Check out Eastwood’s video titled “What should I use for removing rust???” There’s a few good solutions, I highly recommend the sprayable fast etch, it’s an acid that chemically converts and removes the rust. I highly recommend it to prevent flash rusting on exposed metal surfaces. It’s a very strong acid, so wear gloves, goggles & a respirator, and keep the kids & pets away.
I'd have left the quarter panel metal after treating it with Ospho and sandblasting and weld-through zinc primer. Fabrication and re-welding is time consuming and can cause wrinkles elsewhere due to the metal contraction at the weld zones.
@@BLOKgarage Ospho is a watery phosphoric acid containing liquid which will convert rust into iron phosphate (which is black and a decent rust inhibitor). You just paint it on thinly a few times until all of the rust has been converted, then scrub it off with some scotchbrite and a wire wheel and clean the surface with alcohol or acetone for paint. IMHO, as long as you get rid of the rust bed and clean the surface for paint and have more than 50% or the original metal thickness remaining, the metal can be left as is.
Ok so it's not a coating that you leave on there then. I'll check it out. I assume there's other brands that do the same thing, it's this one generally regarded as the best?
Big mistake sand blasting, I have done it to a car in the past and you never get %100 of the residue cleaned up. Plus any residue you have in the car, especially with with granite which has silica isn't good for your health or the car as it can cause rust if it absorbs moisture. What I'am doing with my current project is 1. Make sure to always wear gloves when dealing with bare metal panels. 2. Once the panel or area is bare metal, treat it with rust converter even if the panel looks fine. 3. Clean the panel very good. 4. Spray on etch primer, I was using the Upol brand for my engine bay, though here in Australia it is hard to get and expensive, so have gone to another brand. When I'am ready to paint the car I will rub it back with Scotch-Bite pads and then epoxy prime it with a good brand paint, don't get the chepo primers as your base layers are the most important, you have a crap base you will have a crap overall job.
Waste of time? Depends I guess. I'm sure you'd get 20 years out of it cleaned up how you did with proper treatment and if there are design flaws in why it rusted to begin with. How would I have done it? Infinite time? I'd try and 3d print some pieces that could be used with a hydraulic press to stamp those curves. Would have taken way longer to do probably but use the strengths you got, right? Question, how's your air compressor holding up with that blaster? It looked like an 80gal? Still 120v?
It's fine with the blaster but I use it sparingly. Yeah it's 80 gallon at 12cfm. 240v. I'm a bit worried it won't keep up when it's time to paint. I have a cheap HF gun that's rated at 12cfm also but haven't used it yet. I do really want to get a 3d printer.
@@BLOKgarage I think a lot of people who are really skilled get painting done with worse. My understanding is it you will just go slower. With how expensive taking it in is. You can waste a lot of material learning and still come out ahead
How would you have fixed this? Let me know!
I'm in the process of rebuilding a rusted mk3 golf running gear. It was so rusted it was like it was on the bottom of the ocean. I used bilt hamber deox c to dissolve the rust. It really works well, it gets into the rust pits. Your filler neck bucket would have been all clean if you dumped it in a tank with deox c. There is a gel too for larger items.
@@PieterKuijk Interesting, I'll take a look at it.
Great to see the sub count growing steadily
Love your channel!! Stay positive it takes longer to do things right and you’re doing things right!!!
You're definitely right about that
Looks great. The gap all around looks super clean!
Thanks!
Good work, brother!
Appreciated!
Hey little progress is progress looks good 👍
Sure is
Very nicr repair. Now it is rust free.
Thanks!
Looks fantastic
Thanks!
Good job mate 👍
Thanks!
Great work as usual, thanks for sharing
Thank you!
Use glass bead (80 grit) from harbor freight. They also have a bigger spot blaster that works amazing with the glass bead. Working on a 71 series 1 240z my self. Great work. Keep the videos coming. 😀
I'll see if I can find some locally. Unfortunately the closest HF to me is over an hour away so I don't get there often.
You can also order it online. :) thanks for taking the time to reply to me. That's pretty awesome.
I'll take a look!@@seansoutherland1941
If you hadn't done it, it always would have been in the back of your mind..... great job. One less future worry. 👍👍🍺🍺
That was my thought
A rust converter will help you remove deep rust (phosphoric acid 30-40%). The filler neck would be butt welded to the flange of the gas tank flap opening. And eternity would envy this place.))
Have you used it before? Got any links to one you like?
We gotta do some fabrication but I guess we do that every week anyway!!!only problem in this video is that Ford shirt..😎🤓
Agreed but I do Vaughn. We watch a lot of formula drift.
Live by the rule of it is what it is 😂😂😂
There's only so much we can do!
Sucks the angle iron didn’t work for the flange. That would have been a sick idea. Still turned out great. You’re better than me, I think I would have left it to begin with. You made the right decision though
I think I could've made the angle iron thing work if I redid it with a different offset but I was over it at that point. One of the problems is that this sheet metal is so thick. 18ga is way thicker than the OEM metal and much harder to bend.
We gotta do some fabrication but I guess we do that every week anyway!!!😂😂😂
Killer job! I was especially impressed with how you use that 'cut-off wheel' as a rotary file. Seems minor but that's skills!
I've learned a few things with all this rust I've had to fix 😆
The humidity has been terrible.
Don't worry it'll probably get worse.
good job, i use deoxidine and a wire wheel on drill, time consuming but you can get, every bit of rust out if u keep at it, i hate sand, doesn't matter how many times u spin the rotisserie sand seems to come from somewhere.
That is for sure. I don't think I'll ever get all the sand out.
It turned out really good. But I think you could save a lot of fab work by using a good rust converter treatment. Check out Eastwood’s video titled “What should I use for removing rust???” There’s a few good solutions, I highly recommend the sprayable fast etch, it’s an acid that chemically converts and removes the rust. I highly recommend it to prevent flash rusting on exposed metal surfaces. It’s a very strong acid, so wear gloves, goggles & a respirator, and keep the kids & pets away.
I'll look into it
I'd have left the quarter panel metal after treating it with Ospho and sandblasting and weld-through zinc primer. Fabrication and re-welding is time consuming and can cause wrinkles elsewhere due to the metal contraction at the weld zones.
I had never heard of Ospho. It's it commonly used? How does it compare to the Eastwood spray stuff?
@@BLOKgarage Ospho is a watery phosphoric acid containing liquid which will convert rust into iron phosphate (which is black and a decent rust inhibitor). You just paint it on thinly a few times until all of the rust has been converted, then scrub it off with some scotchbrite and a wire wheel and clean the surface with alcohol or acetone for paint.
IMHO, as long as you get rid of the rust bed and clean the surface for paint and have more than 50% or the original metal thickness remaining, the metal can be left as is.
@@BLOKgarage there's lots of Eastwood spray stuff, so you'll need to be more specific.
Ok so it's not a coating that you leave on there then. I'll check it out. I assume there's other brands that do the same thing, it's this one generally regarded as the best?
I've been using Eastwood rust encapsulator for areas I can't get to that has light surface rust. I'll also be using their internal frame coating.
Big mistake sand blasting, I have done it to a car in the past and you never get %100 of the residue cleaned up. Plus any residue you have in the car, especially with with granite which has silica isn't good for your health or the car as it can cause rust if it absorbs moisture. What I'am doing with my current project is 1. Make sure to always wear gloves when dealing with bare metal panels. 2. Once the panel or area is bare metal, treat it with rust converter even if the panel looks fine. 3. Clean the panel very good. 4. Spray on etch primer, I was using the Upol brand for my engine bay, though here in Australia it is hard to get and expensive, so have gone to another brand. When I'am ready to paint the car I will rub it back with Scotch-Bite pads and then epoxy prime it with a good brand paint, don't get the chepo primers as your base layers are the most important, you have a crap base you will have a crap overall job.
I am definitely worried about getting all the sand out. I appreciate the tips! I'm learning all the time on this stuff.
Waste of time? Depends I guess. I'm sure you'd get 20 years out of it cleaned up how you did with proper treatment and if there are design flaws in why it rusted to begin with.
How would I have done it? Infinite time? I'd try and 3d print some pieces that could be used with a hydraulic press to stamp those curves. Would have taken way longer to do probably but use the strengths you got, right?
Question, how's your air compressor holding up with that blaster? It looked like an 80gal? Still 120v?
It's fine with the blaster but I use it sparingly. Yeah it's 80 gallon at 12cfm. 240v. I'm a bit worried it won't keep up when it's time to paint. I have a cheap HF gun that's rated at 12cfm also but haven't used it yet.
I do really want to get a 3d printer.
@@BLOKgarage I think a lot of people who are really skilled get painting done with worse. My understanding is it you will just go slower. With how expensive taking it in is. You can waste a lot of material learning and still come out ahead
@@Keasbeysknight yeah, my first plan is epoxy and undercoating on the bottom, so I figure that's a good place to mess up and get some practice