Was This The Best Way To Repair The Rear Quarter Panel?
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- Today we're fixing the passenger side rear quarter panel on the 1978 Datsun 280z project! We've got some rust. We've got some hidden damage. The final product should be fine but was this really the right way to fix it?
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Yooo! Your making great progress bro!! And your right the shrinker and stretcher are a great addition to shop for metal work. Dont beat yourself up that its not 100% perfect... Looks much better and rust free is the main thing. And like you mentioned at the end Fitzee channel and Make it Kustom are great channels to learn tricks from. That little milwaukee toolbis quiet handy as well..keep up the great work bro, you got this!!
I'm definitely going to have to get good at body work! 😆 As long as I'm progressing in skill and car completion every weekend then I'm happy.
You should use an air blow gun after a tack that do a few more blow off again.Now to fix try a shrink disk for your grinder will heat the low spot cool with a wet rag replete till correct. ,Carter channel that someone suggested is good to watch.
I do use an air gun to cool the tacks when I'm welding this stuff, I just generally edit most of that out to keep the video pacing up.
Carter Auto Restyling has some really great tutorial style videos about the issues you’re having, I’d recommend checking his channel out. If I can find the videos I’ll link them
I'll definitely check the channel out!
Check out Carter restyling
Try planishing the welds as you go. Planishing will expand the weld relieving tension. I like to leave one side of a panel unwelded til the other 3 are gone. The gap on the 4th side will likely need an adjustment before welding. Cheers
I'll try that - leaving one side unwelded. I feel like I don't fully understand planishing or I just haven't figured it out yet. Thanks!
Planishing is hammer and dolly the welds. Also check out Wrey Schlin (spelling). He sells a shrinking discount that I use after welding if needed.
Ok yeah, I've watched Make It Kustom planish. I couldn't get it to work well there, i would assume it had takes a lot of experience to do well.
Great video Brian, I know nothing about welding but I do always enjoy watching.
You're making a lot of progress on this pretty quickly. Will you need to do a rear sump conversion on the 2J, or has it been done? (I don't remember, I've been watching this series over the last week.) I'm interested to see how much trouble you have with the swap and the immobilizer. I'm doing a 2J swap too, but in a non-Z car.
I would have opted to replace the whole panel instead of pieces. If you look at the number of inches of weld, you definitely ended up doing more welding than you would have replacing the whole bottom.
Smaller gaps would have shrunk less. I try for less than the panel thickness. Filling gaps is all but guaranteed to shrink, but you kind of have to expect bigger gaps as you're figuring it out.
Biggest thing is patience. Even though your video is sped up, it looks like you're not cooling long enough. If it's still warm at all with a bare hand, it's still too hot. I usually try to time patches so I'm welding one while fitting another. Weld a round of racks, blast with air about as long as you do in the video, do something else for 20 minutes (or until completely cool), then repeat until it's solid.
It can take all day to weld in a single patch without warping it.
I have done the rear sump pan swap already. I'm hoping I don't have too much trouble with the immobilizer. I've read that you can buy a JDM ECU if you want to get rid of the immobilizer. I remember looking on ebay and they were cheap. Like $100. This car will eventually get a standalone but I'll be running it off the stock harness and ECU for a while.
I definitely have learned that I need to go slow with welding sheet metal. Patie is one thing I struggle with! 😆
Appreciate the tips!
When I was working on panels, I wish I had a shrinker/stretcher it would have made some specific panels so much better. If there is a compound type curve I attempt to replace larger panels versus smaller portions.
When matching panels you might try the old cut and butt. Lay the new panel over the old and tack. Then cut through both panels few inches at a time and weld them together. and you will have a perfect seam, always.
I have tried a couple times, to be honest I didn't find it any easier. I'll probably try again at some point.
Looks good to me. I would have used the entire panel. Allows you to clean out all the rust that could still be back there. But not my car. Thanks for another awesome video. It's cool how your above 1500 followers
Yeah that is true, to be honest i didn't think of that when i was replacing this section. I could still replace the bottom section but that would mean I wasted a bunch of time 😆
Hopefully the subs keep going up, people seemed to really like the frame rail video!
@@BLOKgarage I'm enjoying every video. And I do prefer the half hour lengths. If you had used the whole piece, you wouldn't have put as much heat into that little area as well. The way I see it, for me, is if I'm buying the panel, I'm using the whole thing. Again, that's just me. Either way, nothing a little bondo won't fix. Look up a shrinking disc. That may help. Btw, I'm no expert. I'm just as green as you and those kf panels. This is stuff I've just learned on my own. Good luck and keep it up
Yeah that definitely makes sense. I was worried about not getting it back in the correct place if I cut the whole panel out. But going into it I also was only expecting to cut out the section against the wheel well. Didn't realize that other section was wrinkled.
You can get a metal puller from Harbor Freight I think. It pretty much welds a wire to the panel that you can yank on.
Yeah I've used one many years ago. Actually, my dad might still have one...
absolutely excellent video as always. your vids really make me think i can get my 280z rebuild to a similar quality.
It only takes a lot of time, patience, and unfortunately money 😆
Have you thought about over lapping the two pieces and self tapping screwed the two panels together and then cut them at one time so the cut is the same?
It works sure, but why waste screws when you just weld the overlappin panel on and cut...
Yeah, cut and butt method as I've heard it called. Although you don't need to screw them together necessarily.
Now would be a great time to add fender flares so you can run super wide tires. 😁
That is the plan!
It's not that big a problem. The easy solution is to use a dent puller and just work out the low spot.
Nice Job!! what gage steel did you use for your repairs?
The Klassic Fab panels are 18ga.
Great videos!! What size wire are you using on your MIG?
I'm using .030 but I've heard .023 is best for sheet metal. I just already had .030 on hand and it's working for me.
26:49 you don’t need no stinkin side markers! Obviously kidding, but the car is small enough having front and rear turns is good enough
I do like the look without side markers.
@@BLOKgarage I’m currently welding my closed with the skillard kit. (They make patch panels that fit perfect in the holes) and they are like 12$ save you time on making your own.
Hi, I follow your CZcams and see that you also made a rotisserie. I made myself 1 year ago but have problems with the balance . It is hard to move when the car is vertical. Is this same problem you have before you change it?
The import thing is getting the weight balanced. At first I made it too bottom heavy so it was hard to flip over, I usually needed assistance. I moved the pivot points down 6-8" or so and it's perfect. Just a little heavier on the bottom right now and I can flip it easily myself.
Hi again. Thank you for reaching out to me 😊. I am in the process of moving the balance point 10 cm lower. But wondering how good clearance you have between the tubes in the spinner itself. It's tight with me and I wonder if it will affect spins 🤔
Hmm, off the top of my head maybe 1/8" gap. I also threw some grease in between them to help them spin on each other.
I get finnish today and also put on some wd 40.. And now it works very good 👍😁. So thank you for the advice to lower the balance punkt in your video. Looking forward to see more educated video from you.
BTW I have the little sister/brother KB110..
sorry i need to finish watching before i comment
2:32 is it just me or is the paint incredibly hard to sand out? I am trying to strip mine down and it’s TOUGH. Might just switch over to aircraft stripper
Yeah mine doesn't come off great. Mines been repainted so it's probably harder than OEM paint. I've seen other people use drum sanders to strip paint effectively but haven't gotten one myself.
@@BLOKgarage my only concern with the drum sander(and I have one) is that it really heats up the metal and will create warps. That’s why I’m kinda leaning toward stripper
That is probably a good concern