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Nice work! Well explained, as always. I would love to see you compare Carveco to Vectric VcarvePro or Aspire. I am trying to understand their relative merits.

I wish we could get our hands on the stuff this cheap hahaha. my hardware cost was thesame for only 300x300 cnc...

those couplers you took off are waaaaaay better then the sping coil couplers you put on.. they WILL break and you will ruin a workpiece or bend a ball screw.. be prepared. Just saying.. the X axis coupler is decent.

The emblem on the Sons of Anarchy Table

Thank you so very much! This is exactly what I needed. I didn't even know I needed a control board. I have a driver and motor, and thought I was ready to go, lol. Extremely helpful and just a goldmine of an instructional video. Thank you!

If the motor and controller have enough umph in them, you might be able to do the same with aluminum or plastic.

Id love to see experimentation on sealed units with lubrication

does this still work?

I understand you may not be a subject matter expert, but - how big is the difference between generating tool paths for such a project on Carveco and Fusion360 regarding the quality of the finished product? P.S. Cool video as always

Falando em usinar aluminio Veja o ciidado de não entrar fragmentos dentrobda castanha do fuso

Vejo que você está com um spindle muito bom e uma maquina poderosa. Boas madeiras para você fazer acontecer muitas artes 3d e outros Boa sorte e boa vontade ❤

Those signal wires, would it be feasible to use shielded cat6 Ethernet cable?

Thank you so much!

nice vid mate

This is a really fantastic video! Right from the start you mentioned the "parameters" and I understood the key message behind, I was totally with you. I'm pretty new to these kind of things, but I can see how useful this can be, and I will use this from now on too. Even English is not my mother language I can understand everything as you don't speak so fast as so many other people here. Like already mentioned, you also describe things in a simple and understandable way. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!

thanks for letting me know about the enter issue, i will be tabbing everthing lol

Can you make an STL into a sketch? Once I make the mesh to a solid, then refine the image, I end up with a nice solid, but I can't figure out how to make it so that I can constraint the lines to add the dimensions and end up with a working sketch. This way I can put the dimensions into a spreadsheet and make the part parametric. Can you help?

hard

One thing to consider when printing functional parts is most infill geometries will provide strength in only two axes. For most prints this is not an issue, but in functional parts it is something to consider. For functional parts I use gyroid infill to ensure maximum strength in three directions. With gyroid the infill percentage can generally be halved without loss of strength; important if you need to keep the mass of the part to a minimum for such things as 3d printer parts attached at the hot-end. The downside of gyroid infill is some geometries will cause a great deal of vibration when printing. Long runs of infill are fine but small areas of infill tend to vibrate the whole printer quite a bit if you have a moving bed. CoreXY printers have fewer issues, the only one being the chance of greater infill-ringing if the hot-end is very heavy. In all cases, printing the infill slower is the answer. (Some firmware and slicers can be trained to slow down when small areas of infill are deposited. Check your setup to see if you have this option.) Luckily, one other benefit of gyroid infill is its much shorter print time with fewer large hot-end movements, so slowing down the infill speed should not noticeably increase the print times. I have printed parts in PETG which prevent flexing of a steering shaft in a track focused sports car. With the majority of infill types a percentage of 60 to 80% was required. With gyroid only 40% infill resulted in a part with almost double the strength. Both prints (cubic and gyroid) were annealed at 80C for one hour after printing. For functional parts I always recommend annealing to prevent unexpected warping or shrinkage.

Hi is there anyway I can cut the tips of the gears off? I made some helical gears resin printed for a small rc car they are very tight with a 30° pressure angle so I changed to 14.5° they are very free now but I lost a few teeth on the pinion gear a couple of minutes into testing

Thank you. Very well explained

AMAZING VIDEO!!!!!

I can only get as far as trying to extrude to the surface to create the "plaque". I get profile falls ytside of boundary error

Great video and explanation. Unfortunately, can't get past 21:44. My 3d cube is off center on the grid and I can't get it centered over the center point. I click and drag and the whole grid moves with it. When it allows me to sketch the circle on the top plane, it will not allow me to apply constraint to the circle and does not snap align over center. When I try again it sketches the circle on the bottom plane so I can't see it instead of the top plane I'm looking at. I researched how to get it back and no luck.

So frustrating..... "Step one, go to Preferences, then General, and go to the units tab" Aaannnnnd..... the units tab is not there.... This video is "only" three years old, and its not directly usable.. This video series is EXACTLY what Im looking for, but the latest version of FreeCAD is different...

Thank you! I was working on adding diagonal lines through a model and this video made the process so much easier.

Thanks bro.

My man thank you, really!

Should try VistaSculpt..photo to relief in a click!

when i try to create pocket it says i cannot use selected objevt, it doenst belong to the active body what am i doing wrong

two notes regarding your layout your VDF cable should be as far as possible from signal cables because noise can not be totally eliminated even with shielded cables. Maybe metal back panel would be better than wood to help reducing heat from the inverter.

Hey man... i have no words to thank you for your video and for your time spent on it.

Very informative. Thanks. In regards to the Mach 3 setup, I plan to run an ec300 control board on my plasma cutter table because it has an Ethernet connection. I heard the USB connection boards are prone to interference from the plasma arc. My question is, would an Ethernet connected board be considered a parallel connection in the Mach 3 setup? Thanks. Subscribed.

THANK YOU!

If the fans are insanely loud, you could try running them at 12 volts. The other option is noise-cancelling headphones.

A guy called CorvetteGuy50 made a video grilling you (muSu0cEkzQc), but the "Guru" isn't that good so I grilled him. He hid the reply so I'll post it here. Fake Gurus=🤡🤡/ Frauds. I hope you can take a little constructive criticism: "Your cooling requirements are WAY off. 2.2KW of heat isn't being pumped into that enclosure, it's going to the spindle (more like ~5% going into the enclosure as heat). I'm surprised you went made such a big deal about CFM and not mention pressure (there's airflow optimised and pressure optimised fans). Bearing type: stick to ball bearings for production gear rather (longer life) than fluid bearings (fluid is quieter). How can you not mention MTBF!? You do realise shielding isn't the same as grounding? It's possible to have something shielded that isn't ground (wrap your phone in tinfoil and try and make it ring: that's shielding!). Putting electronics inside a wooden enclosure and grounding them would be unshielded (I don't recommend that). Analogue and audio gear is much more susceptible to noise than digital. Try to separate data from power cables where possible. As for fan direction, a lot of switch gear has reversible fans depending which way the switch is mounted. That guy made a lot of work for himself rotating a PSU fan (with all that heat below the PC). If he rotated the enclosure his life would be easier (people seem to be following the same quadrant design). That acrylic sheet should trap heat nicely (also flammable). Which reminds me, that fan on the left isn't doing much (the trick is to get as much airflow over the components as possible). As for drilling fan holes, it should be fine fine. Stamped fan grills are everywhere (the hole in the center is pointless unless you want to read the label). That PC having an enclosure within the enclosure is actually better (it's shielded). As a rule of thumb, power supply components tolerate heat better than other electrics. So they get sloppy seconds. PS: The term cyclonal fans in a term you made up. The correct term is push pull. All intake, all exhaust, push pull, mid plane doesn't matter much. That took longer than expected, but I do enjoy your content." Yeah it got a bit lengthy, but he sucks.😂 Why did you go with OSD, not DIN rails?

Or just apply the paint

Can you give me the config for test of pin

Hi Thank you. For those who need to lower the resolution, you can use Paint. Open the pic with paing and use "Rescale" option. At the window that opened choose pixels then you can change the pixels.

Great video, but how do I use the fill hole on an irregular shape, or one created by the sketch tool?

What type of 3d printer u use and what kind of materia?

Do u jave a vodeo of how end this proyext?

thank you👍

Can you fit a 4090???

Thank you for teaching SENPAI :)

Thank you! Super helpful.

the brackets in (Spreadsheet.mug_diameter/2) - (Spreadsheet.mug_thickness) are redundant technically because order of operations would have it resolving in the same order. It's still good practice to use brackets to make it easier to understand at a glance but Spreadsheet.mug_diameter/2-Spreadsheet.mug_thickness would resolve the same way

There's nothing like walking into a brand new shed and smelling the wood.