DIY CNC 002 - Specification & Hardware
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- čas přidán 16. 06. 2024
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00:00 Intro
00:45 Expectations
02:29 Hardware
14:48 Pillar Drill
15:53 Parts List
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Expectations
Moving forward, I want to establish clear expectations for this machine. I have every confidence that it will be a valuable addition to my workshop. However, it's important to note that I'm not suggesting this machine will surpass or even equal the performance of an industry-standard machine with equivalent specifications. I'm under no illusions; since I'll be constructing this machine manually, there will inevitably be some margin for human error. What I am conveying is that by building it myself, I can achieve performance that comes remarkably close to industry standards at a fraction of the cost.
DIY CNC Build Specification:
-Machine Footprint (L x W x H): 1200mm x 930mm x 620mm
-Frame: Solid Aluminium Plate (Bolted Together)
-Working Area (L x W x H): 935mm x 620mm x 115mm
-HGH20CA Linear Rails
-SFU1605 Ball Screws (BK / BF12 End Supports)
-4 x NEMA 23 Closed Loop Motors
-2.2kW 24000rpm Spindle (Water Cooled)
-36V 800W Power Supply (Powers NEMA motors)
-24V 125W Power Supply (Isolated Electronics)
-8 x 'NPN NO' Proximity Switch.
-M5, M6 & M8 Marine Grade Stainless Steel Bolts.
-Mach 3 Breakout Board (For inital testing, may change).
Machine Frame Material
I grappled with the choice of materials to use for constructing the frame for quite some time. I aimed to select a material that offered solidity and could be easily machined using cost-effective tools. Affordability was a pivotal factor in this decision-making process, as I sought to keep expenses in check.
Initially, I leaned toward 304 Stainless Steel due to its commendable mechanical properties and resistance to corrosion. However, its price tag left much to be desired. Ultimately, considering the substantial influence of cost on this project, I found myself torn between EN3B Bright Mild Steel and Aluminium 6082T6.
In conclusion, the choice of material ultimately hinges on individual preferences and the nature of work to be performed on the machine. EN3B Mild Steel proves advantageous if there's a possibility of machining both aluminium and mild steel in the future. However, it's worth noting that it's notably heavier and more challenging to machine manually. Additionally, it is susceptible to corrosion, necessitating the application of a high-quality paint like Hammerite. There is also the posibility that a steel gantry would require higher power NEMA motors. There's also the potential requirement for more powerful NEMA motors when using a steel gantry.
Now, onto the big question: What will it cost to build this machine? As of the time of writing this blog post, the total cost stands at £2,330.54, encompassing all expenses. I was initially hesitant to divulge the list of materials at such an early stage because my intention was to construct the machine first, ensure its functionality, and then share the list. However, I've come to the decision that there's no harm in releasing it earlier, with the understanding that this list may undergo changes. It's possible that I may have overlooked something during the design phase, and any necessary adjustments might surface during the construction process. Consequently, I cannot assume responsibility if you choose to order an item that ends up not being used or replaced later in the project. Additionally, it's essential to take full responsibility for completing the build on your own, as I won't be providing comprehensive, step-by-step instructions. Instead, I plan to create update videos at various project milestones to assist you along the way.
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▶▶ Watch the whole series of videos:
▶ Part 1: • DIY CNC 001 - Introdu...
▶ Part 2: • DIY CNC 002 - Specific...
▶ Part 3: • DIY CNC 003 - Tools fo...
▶ Part 4: • DIY CNC 004 - Drilling...
▶ Part 5: • DIY CNC 005 - Y-Axis F...
▶ Part 6: • DIY CNC 006 - Gantry A...
▶ Part 7: • DIY CNC 007 - Z-Axis A...
▶ Part 8: • DIY CNC 008 - Linear ...
▶ Part 9: • DIY CNC 009 - Surface ...
▶ Part 10: • DIY CNC 010 - Closed L...
▶ Part 11: • DIY CNC 011 - VFD and ...
▶ Part 12: • DIY CNC 012 - Electric...
▶ Part 13: • DIY CNC 013 - Configur...
▶ Part 14: • DIY CNC 014 - Motor Tu...
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That’s amazing ! Thanks for sharing !
not sure what you reason was for getting NO switches?, usually you would want to use NC switches to ensure that a cable breaking etc doenst cause the machine to destroy itself. Cant wait to see the build!
Dank video big man
Thank you for sharing your work! I'm planning my own build so it's handy to hear your thought process.
I wonder whether the motors you have will overpower the rigidity of an aluminum frame. Several people have told me that it's common for DIYers to get motors with way more power than the machine can use because the frame is too floppy.
Fantastic video. Im following along and as mentioned on the previous video, in the same position. Thanks for sharing the build list. Appreciate you not wanting to do a step-by-step but can I suggest maybe film a birds eye view (sped up) as you go and you could post that up so we can see how you are going about it. Again appreciate its work in progress and whatever you film may change. Great work and good luck. 👍
Thanks Jim! I will do my best to cover as much of the build as possible😁
Since this is going to be bolted together I had a couple of thoughts. I think it would be advantageous to make a shallow counter sink (or generous chamfer) to the holes on the two surfaces that come together. When you drill and/or tap the holes there is some local deformation around the area, especially in softer material like aluminum. This would concentrate the pressure in a small area around the bolt when it would be better to have it more evenly distributed. It will also allow you to develop the full clamping of of the bolt.
The other thing is getting a really flat joint between the extruded faces of the plate and the saw-cut edges (like the example at 6:27). If you aren't going to machine these faces you might look into scraping them together so they make really good contact. With aluminum, it doesn't take much work to do a couple of passes. I'm not sure how flat the plate is, but you might run into alignment and binding issues with the linear bearings when you tighten the bolts fully. A small surface plate would be able to show you how flat the aluminum is. Small workshop grade plates are pretty reasonable (in terms of cost).
Excellent points, thank you for the feedback and suggestions. Your thoughts are in line with mine in regards to the process of bolting together. I will certainly be taking as much care as I can to ensure the plates go together as flush as possible. Like you said aluminium is generally easier to work with and it can even be sanded and polished very easily. This could be done nicely on the end cuts and connecting faces to ensure a very accurate joint. There will always be a degree of human error when doing this by hand but all I can do is my best to minimise it :)
The smart thing to do is buying aluminum tooling plate what has flat surfaces .
I wish we could get our hands on the stuff this cheap hahaha. my hardware cost was thesame for only 300x300 cnc...
Check out my Bill of Materials over on the website. All the purchase links are there :)
I notice that the VFD was not listed in the parts list, was that included in the spindle kit?
yes :)
@@thehardwareguy Thanks!
Aluminum and stainless steel are dissimilar metals. So, although your stainless steel hardware will not corrode, it will cause the aluminum to corrode and weaken over time. Just something to be aware of. I've seen some thread coatings advertise that they limit this effect if you are not using a thread locking compound.
Thanks for the info! I will keep this in mind
This works on aluminum too ??
hello! could you please elaborate on that, does what work on aluminium?
Pode me dizer qual seu país? Peeto da china? O frete do spindle é bem barato comparado ao Brasil
"Promosm"