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TR4’s are great!

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One diode out in the rectifier me thinks.

Another good one! Thanks Elin! 😊

The last jobs on a car ALWAYS take the longest!

That windscreen is the right size for Cheftush ! I think we found his next project ! 😊

Twin down draft Webers, that car is going to fly.

I was ready to see how you were going to remove the trunk lock barrel, without breaking the screws for the mechanism. I have never had any luck either. I have, however, had good luck freeing the little door that keeps dirt out of the trunk lock. You did a good job on the window regulator and door handle assembly. She is getting close to being done, but everything takes time.

This episode made me laugh, a comedy of errors. carry on it will turn out right in the end.😆

what part of canada are you in????

Great video, as always.

I wore out the gear inside the RH (drivers) window winder on my Triumph Herald in the UK, then I found out that most of the second hand spares were also worn out on the same side, so I bought some spares in Belgium, where the driver sits on the left, they have wear on the other side!

do you use any sealant between gasket and the windshield? MOSS WEB SITE "Before installation, run a bead of non-hardening windshield sealer in the glass channel of the rubber seal. Install the seal, finisher and clip onto the glass". I am about to do mine and any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks

I never tried using wire to install a windshield, I always used thin nylon rope and vasaline

I’m loving it Elin !😊

Nice to see John.. I thought he might have been abducted by aliens 😅👽.. Great work again Elin.. It's very time consuming and tricky at this stage. It'd be nice if John could figure why he had the wrong windscreen and what it was meant to fit ?

I think the choke-cable cover is too long, it has a kink and so it goes hard. In my car time we use moss oil for the rubber and a cable too but smaller.

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Good work on the driver door window, thats probably my issue , as it goes up and down but can be pushed down like that one. Im glad you have the car on the road for John, but still look forward to the rest of the videos.

I just noticed that you didn't install the tonneau clips on the front of the dash pad at the base of the windscreen. Was that an option in 1970? Mine is a '71 and they were factory installed.

I wonder about that incorrect windshield... might it be the glass for the backlight (rear frame) of a "Surrey" hard top? It looks similar. If so, it would be extremely valuable! Those are very scarce! (It does explain why the rubber seal seemed too small, needed to be stretched and was so difficult to install!)

I am also looking forward to watching you put in the interior as I am in the process of redoing mine on my '71 TR. I just installed a new lower windscreen gasket and getting it all back in and glued and bolted with out removing the glass itself was a real bear, particularly the clips on the inside at the front of the dash pad. The holes are a nightmare to line up in such a way for the bolts to catch the threads of the captive nuts and because of the slant of the glass, you can barely get your fingers in there to hold it in place while trying to turn it with a wrench. I ended up using a one size smaller bolt that was a half inch longer and a washer and nut on the passenger side as it was easy to get to from underneath the dash. I was still able to install all three of the tonneau cover clips. I couldn't get the little triangular keeper to line up (to much interference from the new gasket) but I did get a washer on it. This was a job that I don't ever want to do again, because of the frustration factor. But it is done and done.

I had to change my alternator in my Morris Minor.It was overcharging.Tel tale signs were the voltmeter needle was vibrating and fluid was coming out of the battery.

I was watching your previous video and then this one popped up. You is a busy, busy man.

Yellow on this beauty is bad luck

Hello Elin, i want to order two cap’s but the site meldet to me that there was a problem to pay with my credit Card. I appreciatie your video’s cos i have one TR 6 out of 1971 . I learn very muche from you. Thanks your great. I try further to order to caps .

You sure are busy. I know what you are going through. I have a garage full of stuff and just about everything needs some kind of work.

Far to much pre-amble and covering old ground.

You are not the only You Tuber that has lots of views but they don't subscribe. I think that You Tube is trying to address this problem by creating the " Membership category " which is more obviously a paid category so hopefully people will figure out that subscribing doesn't cost any thing, not sure if its working. Any ways I always subscribe to channels I like, because it doesn't cost anything and then the algorithm always shows me when they have new video's up. I used to click the notification bell but I had to un click notifications as my IN box became flooded. As to why people don't subscribe, I can only guess, hopefully some will read my comment and realize that subscribing is free. Great series on the TR-3 and 4 motors, Happy Canada day.

Not sure if the intro song was intentional? “You Ain’t Going Nowhere “….✌️

Is it safe to re-use a mismatched set of tappets and pushrods? I thought they were supposed to be replaced as sets. Fingers crossed for the spare crank hunt!

Thanks for the helpful videos. If you see this, I replaced my bushings this weekend. After assembly passenger side takes more effort to move left or right then driver side. Is it possible I have an issue or will this loosen over time? New ball joints also. Thanks

What was that video about??

Elin, box it up, kick it back under the bench, the tr4 engine has to come out anyway, that engine could be better, you are writing it off because its seized, keep up the good work, love watching these videos

a tractor engine, decent torque

The patina princess.

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Comiserations for finding that the engine has expired. I understand why you don't want multiple dismantled engines hanging around but you don't know what you actually have. You said you want to do a budget rebuild so now is the time to dismantle the siezed one to see just what parts are salvagable. Who knows you may get your head with hardened seats and possibly a crankshaft with suitable endfloat. Never keep a siezed engine hanging about because as it is uknkown it is hence junk. Get it in bits and choose the best to assemble into a budget build. As a youth I did nothing but budget builds which were still good when sold off years later. You are going to have to pull out that siezed engine anyway to fit a rebuilt one so get it out now other than later. The whole idea of getting old cars going is to have fun without breaking the bank. No whinging, just do it.

Sorry about the bad crank, we had a local Brit garage but it turned itself into a speed shop and I don't think that they do British cars anymore. In any case, have a great Canada Day!

Elin I found on eBay couple of remanufacture crankshafts 10/10 for the triumph,I don’t know what you looking for,but I think there are kinda expensive.they want 779.00 plus shipping for one.just look up motor parts for triumph,got to scroll down and you will see them.maybe might help or not,your decision.

Back in the late 1970s I ran a Triumph Herald convertible which started to give trouble by stalling when trying to pull away. It was diagnosed as having a dropped thrust washer... these wear most on the side which takes the thrust when operating the clutch, which I think is the case on your TR3 crank. A local machine shop rebuilt the engine, making a bespoke bronze thrust washer, which I believe was attached to the block and bearing cap by small pins or drilled and tapped to take small screws. I don't think that it added much to the normal cost of crank grind, re-bore etc., but maybe machine shops were more flexible in those days and such a procedure was not an uncommon event.

You would have to purposely put that center main in backwards. Don’t the bearing lock tabs always butt against each other’s ends.IE both on the same side? If you’re not sure about lousy markings on the caps go by the tabs. Don’t ever put used lifters on any lobe other than which they were originally worn in on. Push rods as well should always go back to their original locations. Every moving part establishes a wear pattern and mismatching the parts accelerates that wear.

Famous last words: You can't save them all. But you can use a lot of parts to save one of them. You have a crank in that seized engine, I believe. Thanks for another excellent video, Elin.

Great to see you and Dave working together again .... I've missed Dave's regular contributions to You Tube over the last year .... best wishes from Blighty guys 😊😊

Hi Elin , Always enjoy your videos , you are a real craftsman when working on vehicles . May be a silly question, but rather than checking lift with the pushrod & gauge , could not the cam be removed & each lobe checked with a micrometer ?

Very nice.just continue on doing what you do best,great video.be safe 😎😎😎👍👍👍

See what happens when you try to avoid rebuilding your Spitfire engine? The engine gods are laughing at your expense.

It looks like a former owner did a cheap, quick & dirty "rebuild" of that engine at some time in the past. The 4 ring pistons look weird.

If you don't reface the lifters you use from David's engines in this engine, you will ruin the camshaft in this engine quickly!