1970 TR6 - Part 42 - Let's Make Brake Lines From Scratch
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- čas přidán 19. 04. 2024
- The existing brake lines on the car are steel and probably 50 years old. Let's make our own nickel/copper lines and install them.
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#rustybeauties #TR6 #Triumph - Auta a dopravní prostředky
That was another great update, keep up the good work.
Thanks Elin always a pleasure
Elin, Please use copper grease frequently to facilitate easy future removal of bolts fittings /parts to be removed.
Great video as usual. I thought that the compression was perfect. The starter seemed weak even with all the plugs out. Many times when making a brake line I will use string to get the exact length needed.
I wish I had a list of brake pipe lengths for my Triumph Vitesse! I suppose that next time it's all being replaced, then we can make such a list and copy what's already there
Great stuff Elin.. another few jobs ticked off the list .. If it were me, I'd try and find an octane boost additive for the fuel to prevent prematurely igniting of fuel/air mixture before the spark plug has a chance to get to it. 😅
Great video Elin ,brakes are never easy.just continue doing what you do best and carry on.😎😎😎👍👍👍
Good morning Elin from Aust.
With regards to the height issues you have with the TR6, I might offer a solution.
Although not quite the same, my Healey states that when rebuilding the front suspension, the top wishbone must be lifted 1.5 inches with a block before assembly, I haven't figured out why as yet but the book is very adament this is done. As for brake lines, I've made all of mine but did not have any info regarding the length. All the lines were broken or missing. Anyway, we just keep going.
Wish you were here to help with the wiring!!
Elin, you could never talk too much my friend!
Excellent hard line tutorial, Elin. Gotta say tho, that loose vise would drive me NUTS!
Nice job on the brake lines. Looks beautiful🍻
Elin, I believe you are correct that the front brake line does not lay on top of the frame cross member of the engine. I think it should run across the rearward side of that cross member, where it would be better protected against damage from road debris or any work being done on the bottom of the engine.
I have seen that pipe attached two different ways. One uses a spring steel clip that fastens to the flange at the bottom of that cross member. Moss shows it on their website, but lists it as N/A and doesn't indicate the Triumph part number.
The second type of fastener or clip is also spring steel, but instead snaps into a hole drilled in the rear face of the cross member. Rimmer Bros. shows this type on their website and sells it.
Personally I would prefer the 1st type of clip, because I would rather not drill a hole in the cross member (if one isn't already there). I just don't know where to get that 1st type of clip. But maybe you do.
Your brake lines look grea! There are copper-nickel "kits" available with all the fittings installed and flares done. They still need to be bent to shape and, in my experience, sometimes are longer than the originals. That leaves the installer to choose whether to try to make work as is by positioning the slack somewhere it won't be a problem... or shortening and reforming the flare.
P.S. I will be purchasing the flaring tool you showed before I ever do this job again! I have one of the "old school" type flare tools, which can be tricky to use. The one you used looks to solve the all or most of the problems of the old type!
The later year TR6's had a raised suspension compared to the earlier years of TR6's and TR4's because of American standardized bumper height regulations that went into effect in 1974 and thereafter. That's why it has a raised ride height when compared to any earlier model year TR6's or theTR4's. I believe that the TR6's used different spring rates to achieve the higher ride height of the later years of TR6's.
Thank You for showing us how to make up brake lines, a very useful lesson indeed. The only thing I would do differently is to use a beer bottle to put the curves in the lines rather than my fingers, because it creates smoother curves.
I just have to say.. since everything is so dang expensive.. how many of you are doing car repairs, house repairs, plumbing repairs, and sprinkler system repairs yourself? Me too! I even gave myself stitches! CZcams is awesome; however, you have to find the good channels like this one!
Expensive? Yes. The other reasons are you know it'll be done right and it'll actually get done in a decent amount of time.
Those Webers are 2 barrel sequential carbs. In other words, the second barrel only opens when the throttle is open nearly 3/4's. There is only a single idle fuel adjustment needle for the primary barrel. It should be on the outside of the carb on the throttle plate. The Idle adjustment may not work properly if the idle air jets are blocked. Oddly, there are primary and secondary idle air jets. They are located high in the main body of the carb on the inner and outer sides.
The idle air correction jets are small brass screws that hold the jets. The jets are pushed into the brass screws and should not be seated fully. The jets should be pushed into the screws, but should be allowed to find their own depth when screwed into the carb body. If you don't do this, the jet may allow air to leak past the jet.
Thanks Michael. I knew nothing about my carbs.
Hi Elin, I see you can bend the brake lines without them going flat. I know when you bend thicker pipes you need to put a spring inside to prevent it from going flat. Up to which size can a pipe be bent before a spring is needed? Or does the material from which it is made also play a roll? Thanks for your very informative videos!
Were the bolts through the suspension bushes tightened when the suspension was not compressed ? That might affect the height….
Elin, can you relocate the air compressor out of the shop , maybe in the next storage shelter or construct a dog house to insulate, shelter and minimize the noise allowing for cooling airflow of course.
My 90s Fiat 1400cc OHC engine had a correct compression ratio of 175-180 psi… so quite usual for UK / Europe… not sure why an OK standard Triumph starter should struggle with that compression because the first TR5 / TR6 engines were high compression and performance (and emissions !).
Elin, don't forget to check the grounds that can inhibit the starter, IE, frame to battery, all critical starter elect connections., especially due to new paint and reassembly
I noticed when you moved that fuel hose, it looked rather soft. Please make certain that ALL of the rubber fuel hose is ethanol proof 30R14, for carburettors, or 30R9, for injection. These are bio-fuel hoses. Do NOT use any 30R6 or 30R7 as still being sold by various auto parts stores. otherwise, the modern ethanol laced fuel will make short work of them! (Fuel hose should never be purchased on ebay because of fakes!)
I think you can rent a brake line kit from auto zone..
On the hard startung problem.....is there a ground strap from the body to the engine? Did you check the ring gap on the original build, If too tight that would contribute to a higher pressure, I would think. In the #7 video you mentioned that the block was sent out to a machine shop, did the mill the block or the head, that would raise the compression ratio but not that much really.. P.S. Compression ratio and compression pressure are two different things. I noticed the plugs were extreamly carboned....an abnormally high compression test may be indicative of carbon buildup in the cylinder.