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Diagonal. Trust me, he's an Engineer.

Where did you find the steel liners?

some great ideas, thanks

Well done !

1:31 What do you mean fillet the lower edge? If that's on the print bed that's terrible.. (you've said it yourself..6.6)

Nice to see someone working hard to drive costs down in todays world. I know it all comes back around to benefit you, but even if your intentions have nothing to do with making things better for everyone else, its exactly what youre doing, and we as a community cannot thank you enough.

Just avoid tabs. Print holes and tap them for screws, or use self-taping screws. Screws are secure and a sign of quality.

Title implies alternative designs to snap fits, video content is about changing printing orientations and other minor design additions to reinforce snap fits.

What application do you use?

As filamemt demant get's higher. The HIGH material waste is increased. We need real biodegradable alternative.

one way to strengthen those clips is to design a hole all the way through it vertically. the slicer will see the hole as a wall and add wall thickness around the hole.

Why is the microphone in focus but not you ^^"

Finally you include "But what if you HAVE to print it like this" THANK YOU!

'Tangled' filament? Did anyone bother to run this by Marketing before naming it? Let me guess the names that didn't make the cut included, Toxic, Smelly, LowRes, Clumpy, Wet, Warping, Shrinking, Fragile, Clogging, and Brittle Filament. Just kidding, but the name isn't great.

The "diego"nal side

Fillet on the bottom? Can't you remember your own advice on this?

another way is to use bigger nozzle. e. g. with 0.6mm nozzle you will get much better layer bonding.

I've been working on a part similar to this. I've been printing it out of ABS and found that turning up the nozzle temp made a big difference. I also added fillets, which increased the rigidity. That in turn made reducing the catch size. I wrote off printing at an angle, because the part is so small and printing at an angle would add much difficulty. I'll have to think about it again and use some of your techniques to see if I can make it work.

Me watching Slant 3D: "Hmmm, I wonder if they gonna slant that piece..." It is really great gift that you share all your know-how and experiences from doing R&D on your parts, taking out so much guesswork from future prototypes made by community.

You never want a fillet on the bottom layer of a 3D printed part, that's like day one knowledge.

For me, these kind of videos are super helpful! Thank you 👍

Awesome. Simple yet effective solutions. Thanks.

waiting for the PETG !! please please ANYTHING but black. I simply can not use black. its useless to me. (outdoor 6800ft desert brutal solar radiation. yes. black petg WARPS here. even "neutral" (ie no coloring") or better white. working on building well a building with printed blocks. I make 300x300x150mm blocks that use 950g of filament each.

Does bambu studio have chamfering? I wish slicers just had all these things i could just live in the slicer ... theres not that many things a slicer needs to replace most of what blender does for most people

Theres a cannabis grinder design with teeth that snap right off, how can that deaign be improved? I was really wondering, because in a tobaco grinder for example its like the teeth have to pass by each other etc, the teeth are just printed on layers. Ok chamfers? How do i add changers in bambustudio witjout just adding a triangle overlayed lol

If you want stronger, make them a seperate part, print them in the other direction laying down, then glue them on or screw them on. That is odd course if you absolutely need to.

This channel is pure gold to me, thank you so much!

Great info. Thank you for always sharing and increasing the knowledge of the community. The thing I would change is instead of a filet at the bottom where the part meets the bed I would use a 45 degree chamfer. This is because a radius starts at an overhang of 90 degrees. You can chamfer the bottom and then radius the top edge of the chamfer so it is a radius that starts at a 45 degree overhang.

How about some kind of integrated spring connecting the snap?

Have you considered compiling these design tips into a reference document or wiki somewhere?

This was a good tip video. 👍

Every minute counts. Great video, I had this issue but was too lazy to figure it out.

when you do printing and shipping directly to the end customer, how is post processing handled, like removing some parts of design that were included just to make it more printable, but should be removed in in the end product? Do you make custom quote on that?

Good afternoon! First I'd like to say thank you for your tutorials in better design for printed parts, it's been extremely insightful and improved some of my personal projects. Second, do you have any plans to start producing local ASA filament?

Amazing video! Liked and subscribed.

Dude, the amount of knowledge you give out for free is huge! Thanks

Have you considered getting into HIPS? I find it's easy to print open frame, i'm struggling with it a lot less than with PETG, and the raw material must be quite inexpensive. It's also resilient, can be sanded and painted, looks nice straight from the nozzle too. The problem with HIPS is... basically lack of marketing, or rather bad marketing. Everybody knows ASA and ABS, which are both more troublesome, ABS a LOT more troublesome, and ASA is more expensive. HIPS is known as... support material, as if it was some sort of throwaway garbage, while the material is highly resilient, not any less long term durable than ABS and rather more so, and it just prints so well. So it's not guaranteed that you'd sell any of it. Also i wonder what pure polystyrene is like without butadiene additive. Because as opposed to SBS and other styrene plastics, HIPS is not a copolymer, it's a blend of just styrene and just butadiene, which is also why it doesn't release so much styrene stink, as copolymerisation is the chief cause of styrene polymerisation inhibition. It still releases some so it is still somewhat poisonous to print... but like ABS is really bad and still people buy that in large amounts?

I recently discovered the 45 degree trick for clips like that. Makes a MASSIVE difference to the tensile strength of them. I do it less steep than 45 degrees to keep quality high, and it still gives me great strength on small features like that.

You know why don't we cut the trash comments and actually provide some insight or a more effective technique

Further thoughts from a strength of materials perspective. This may be overkill for most people/designs. 1. Longer snap brackets mean less force is needed to deflect the bracket, and that means less stress on the material which leads to breaks. 2. Stress on the part, and location of failure, is concentrated on the base of the bracket. To spread out the stress, design the bracket with an ~15 degree taper (larger at base, smaller going towards snap feature). This will give you more snap force, more deflection, and less likely to fail. 3. Thickness vs. Width. The thickness of the bracket has much more of an impact on deflection force than the width. Try bending a ruler a few different ways (or something similarly flat) to see this in action. 4. Backstops. The bracket cannot break if you have a backstop that doesn't allow the bracket to bend far enough to break. Other features that protect the bracket can be helpful. 5. All snap brackets made to date are not optimized for 3D printing, so be creative! Your only cost is design time. A more in depth guide that can be a good reference. I wouldn't worry about calculations for most things, just the ideas behind it. fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/S62.12/people/vernelle.noel/Plastic_Snap_fit_design.pdf

PETG is worse from the layer adhesion standpoint. PETG just bends a bit better.

If changing orientation is not an option, but changing the material is, then TPU will provide the best layer adhesion. Rigidity can be improved by using rigid TPU with a rating above 95A.

Is there a rule of thumb for optimal first layer surface area for your print farm, specifically the min/max for part adhesion and auto-ejection? Curious to know if you have any data on this, or even just gut reaction based on experience.

Thanks for showing that print. Now I feel better about mine. I hate when it's always a perfect one in a hundred print of a perfectly calibrated printer. This is how most prints will look like and that's fine.

when matte black filament

Still loving these quick 3D printing design tips. I've been doing this a long time and learn something from every video I particularly liked the composite image at 4:55 that showed all of the design iterations chronologically from left to right.

I always takeaway tips from your videos, thanks!

I have designed and printed a part like this. I would like to add some additional points. 1) Reduce the thickness of the bending straw/base, but make it wider. Increasing the thickness is an intuitive mistake because while more surface area increases adhesion, it also makes the part more stiff and therefore less bendable and more brittle, and the separation force becomes higher on the outer wall because that part needs to stretch upwards more. 2) Instead of a rectangular or chamfered design for the head, use a narrow P shape instead. The rounding/fillet creates a good variation in bending force and angle upon insertion. Experiment with protrusion of the head and the fillet's maximum angle.

PETG has better layer adhesion than PLA? First time I've ever heard that. Definitely never seen it.

Might want to revise that 'add a fillet to the bottom' to add a chamfer... fillets on first layers are never great.