Connect 3D Printed Parts | Design for Mass Production 3D Printing
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2024
- In this episode of Design for Mass Production 3D Printing, we showcase some useful connector designs for assembling large projects! We cover why traditional methods like round pegs in round holes might not always be the best choice for 3D printing and show you the benefits of more optimized designs. This video is perfect for designers looking to enhance the strength, precision, and aesthetics of their large 3D printed assemblies. Whether you're in need of a robust connector, or a low-profile slab, we've got you covered with practical design tips and a discussion on the pros and cons of each design. Watch now to elevate your 3D printing skills and achieve seamless, durable projects without increasing costs.
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00:00 How Do You Connect 3D Printed Parts?
00:20 Square Peg Connector
01:04 Biscuit Connector
01:40 S Bracket Connector
02:55 Snap Fit Joint
03:37 Design Embedded Joining Features
About Slant 3D
🏭 High-Volume 3D Printing: Scalability Meets Flexibility
Slant 3D's Large-Scale 3D Print Farms utilize 1000's of FDM 3D printers working 24/7 to offer limitless scalability and unparalleled flexibility. Whether it's 100 or 100,000 parts, our system can handle it reliably, while still allowing for real-time design updates, ensuring products evolve with the times. This adaptability is key in today's fast-paced world.
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Embrace a system that drastically reduces carbon emissions by eliminating carbon-intensive steps in the supply chain, such as global shipping and warehousing. Our approach minimizes this footprint, offering a more sustainable manufacturing option.
⚙️ Digital Warehouses: Parts On-Demand
Think of print farms as a "Digital Warehouse", meaning we can store your parts digitally on a server rather than physically on a shelf. parts are available on-demand, reducing the need for extensive physical inventory.
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Would be helpful to show the assembly of the S, I think I'm picturing how it goes into the first one, but not sure how it would go into the second one and be secure.
Slide
@@slant3dI get the concept, but if like to hear more about the design parameters (i.e. how to set up tolerances and such)
@@slant3dI get that the S slides into place, but I’m confused about one thing: When talking about the spring fingers, you spoke as though the other designs didn’t involve any flexing. It seems like the ends of the S must flex to snap into place and hold the parts together though. Is it just that the flex is across a greater distance, so it’s less tweaky to design?
(I absolutely love this design for manufacturing series btw; the vids are useful, educational and interesting, seeing how you arrive at solutions that match the constraints and requirements. 👍👍👍)
@@slant3dhe's asking how it stays in place with no glue or anything? Won't it flex and pop out?
I came here to say the same thing. Another video going into the specifics of the S would be nice - even a CZcams Short showing the assembly and linking to this video would be great.
I also really like this design for manufacturing series - great stuff! I appreciate you spending the time sharing your expertise, and your employer for allowing you to do it. I also expect it provides you guys some well earned free advertising for Slant3d's services.
From a robotics channel - huge thank you for the tips! Motors and software are critical, but the maker community needs more content like this to optimize our hardware 😊
Yeah I don't get quite how the S works either? And how it's not a mechanism yet the clips are
S shape just worked with geometry to hold stuff in place that aren't that important
Mechanism has a flexing/moving part the s has no moving parts it slides into the part as is
@@AsocPro the S will flex as much as any other piece of plastic when force is applied
It’s known as a compliant mechanism you should look it up can do some pretty awesome stuff with compliant mechanism
Love the informational videos about how to design parts. I don't mass print, but I do a lot a printing for various projects, and all the little tips you give add up. Things like designing the part around not needing supports, I hate taking supports off
I really appreciate this informative video about pegging with 3D prints. Thank you.
Thanks for watching
😂
Very well explained - thanks for the info!
One thing that can really help is to put material between the snap fit bending tabs. Give them enough clearance to click into place, but keeps them from being over-bent and snapped off. It will also give slightly better fit since it is more material.
All this info videos of how to design 3D prints are really good. I have used some and am happy to have learned this great ways of how to create better prints.
Always great info!
thanks so much
Seriously one of the most useful printing/ 3D design videos I have ever stumbled upon. You, good sir, have earned a subscribe!
Welcome aboard!
Awesome!
Do you have a video about box latches and maybe hinges?
I've tried putting in place and filament rivet hinges saved they both with well but I've not found a satisfying clasp yet. Slide lids like domino cases are also easy to print
Filament rivets are my go to.
hi Slant, I was wondering, are there specific design considerations for when you want to design tube end caps that go into the tube or profile?
Oh bugger I wish I’d thought of that I have round ones pegs lol. Nice video I’m glad it popped up
I would love to hear y'alls thoughts on dual material prints or using two different 3d printed materials for a product, For instance ABS & TPU etc.
Love the rants, well news that ends in rants. But also stumbled across your videos on making prints for mass production. 90% of them work for a small startup 3D printing business. So many great ideas for small changes. Few awesome ideas for products to make and sell. Also great that I can setup the Etsy App to handle any huge spikes until I can get more printers. Or just push through a small spike in sales. Love your mentality of the industry. As you see things moving towards mass production. What do you see as something that the start-up Etsy type seller should make to help build out there items?
Are these stls available to download? I wouldn't mind printing to feel them out
Love all your videos, verry interesting, i dont understand the S mecanisme
I'm a huge fan of snap fits myself. I like to avoid having to glue parts whenever possible, and these usually do the job just fine.
any advice on where to find the dimensional specs to properly design snap fits?
@@HunterBobbey I'm not sure what specs you're looking for exactly. The snaps can be pretty much any size, as long as they're big enough to have a few wall lines. Honestly, I just take a stab at it, run a test print of both sides, and adjust if needed.
What is the cad package you are using
What modeling software is used in that video? Looks interesting. Is it plasticity?
What software are you using for your designs?
What cad software is being shown in the video
What 3d modeling software was you using in this video please?
As always you vids are very informative, thank you.
Shapr3D (Use code 'Slant3d' for 10% OFF):
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Are you able to design for waterproofness?
Could you share the files that you used so we have some reference? Thanks!
I feel like if there are no tolerances in the square peg my adventurer3 probably couldn't manage the fit, might be a user error, not to do anything with the printer
Snap fit where you put a slab in the center of the two c-clamps once it is in place on the opposite side.
Can you please explain that deeper.
I think this would be very good but i dont quite unterstand how its implemented.
Square pegs go in square holes. Square corners crack. Use octogonal pegs.
Hey, I have a question regarding print quality. Please know I appreciate all your videos and am asking this as someone who respects what you do, so I don't mean this to come off as criticism right off the hop! I have noticed the pieces you are using as examples for these videos all look like pretty poor quality prints, (visually) like rough around the edges or with big goopy layer lines... I'm curious if this is just due to using a larger nozzle and catering your print farm to high production speed, or is this just something that shows up on camera more than in person? I recently bought my first 3D printer (bamboo labs P1S) and the parts I've been printing all seem to have tighter tolerances and thinner layers lines, especially if I tweak the setting for variable layer height around curved edges. Again, this is an honest question that is not meant to offend, I was just curious about the look of the parts on camera.
Perhaps a subject regarding layer height or nozzle size on print quality vs time taken to print at scale would be interesting also.
Thanks for all the excellent videos on 3D printing production!
Whats the software he's using
what do you guys think about using brick layers instead of stacked layers? cnckitchen made a pretty good video on it
I'm working on a 3d printed TPU electronics case which holds several small oscilloscopes and frequency generators.
I designed a hole and bulb style connector. It's basically a type of snap fit.
The hole & bulb enables me to print each wall flat on the print bed, so each walll face looks great when printed on a textured bed, and it holds everything together really well.
Thanks for these videos. Great stuff!
What software???
Would love to see a video of massive commercial enterprises gaming kickstarter to fund a project that they should be funding themselves. Creality comes to mind. I heard there's a filament manufacturer that did something similar.
Snap fitting should be hollow all the way or with X support that let's you squeeze enough to actually un plug it lol
Bambu/prusa slicer should add an update where a "connect parts" or "connect objects" lets you connect to objects close together with various clasps and clips like this to choose from
you didn't show the S method, not sure how that works better...
I'm a simple man. I see Slant 3D's video - I press Like
Thank you
@@slant3dThank you for not keeping your experience to yourself.
Used some of your tricks for my hobby projects.
3:22 So is this a permanent hold? How do you get that out?
3:28 Oh! Never mind! There it is!
Этот Артемий Лебедев умеет делать 3д печать!
Add a hole in the peg to let air escape bro
Your 'slab' is a mortise and tenon joint with a floating tenon
Honestly, I just use steel dowel pins before gluing with epoxy
Honestly, I just surround my part with mild steel and TIG weld it
hell yeah@@gedr7664
@@gedr7664 that would turn PETG into molten stew
But many 3d printed plastic creep and lose grip overtime soooooo
He did say glue sooo
Offtopic: taking care of the aesthetics of your fingers has a future.
first
nobody cares
Welcome
When doing the structural demonstration prints like these, it would be nice if you used white so that we can see the layer lines on the part you created easier. The slice you show us for the diamond peg still looks like it is printed vertical, instead of horizontal as you say aloud. Took a few rewinds to see that it's just the perspective in the slicer making it look that way.
@slant3d I couldn't get the webform to work, I've emailed multiple times and called multiple times (left voicemails), commented on X, and now here. Been trying to reach you since 2/23/24. Are you not accepting more work right now? quote button in nav broken, mailto in footer on about page broken.. tin can and string?