Video

Well it definitely stops the flow when you let off the trigger, so that helps. You still need to apply the proper size bead. Good luck, thanks for watching!

Yeah, I have to agree. I didn’t have any noticeable irritation but I handled it with caution. However, it’s better to be safe!

We have tall fescue here in the Midwest area and we normally cut it at 3 1/2”. We actually cut it at the same height for the application but did it right before proceeding. A lot depends on what type of grass you have and what height you normally cut it at to keep it healthy. I wouldn’t recommend cutting it more than 1/4” lower than you normally cut it so that you don’t harm the grass.

You’re welcome. Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful! I’m sure you’ll be enjoying your “new saw”. Thanks for watching.

Yeah, as a casual DIYer, I normally do my research on products and techniques before proceeding and GoBoard was no exception. Overall, I concluded that it was the best way to go for our installation, and was very happy with its ease of installation.

Sure, you’re welcome! Like I mentioned in the video, some of the best money I’ve ever spent. Makes a seemingly difficult job so easy after finding the right procedure. Piece of cake!

Sure, you’re welcome! Yeah, I normally investigate thoroughly before buying anything and the MoJack is another purchase that I’m very happy with. I’m sure you’ll like it.

Thanks! Yes, same here. I can only imagine that they are targeting people who either can’t, or don’t want to do a conventional oil change and are not concerned with leaving dirty oil in their engine. In my mind, it can only result in the engine not lasting as long as it should.

You’re welcome, thanks for watching. You’ll really like it, the upgrade turns the old Craftsman into an entirely new machine!

Braincramp! Thanks for pointing that out. I guess I’ll chalk that up to being a senior moment. I’ll either make a note of that in the description or I’ll cut that portion of the video where I mention it. Once it’s uploaded, the only editing that can be done is to make cuts.

For sure, I’m happy with it. Works great.

You’re welcome. That’s one reason I really like CZcams, there’s so many ways to get things done and 9 times out of 10, you’ll find a solution. Also glad to hear that me being cheap, saved someone else some time and money. 😎 Thanks for watching.

@@DIYBoomers No doubt DIY. Honestly didn't think drain plug would be an issue, wrong answer. Precarious location. I thought the big bolt on the EZ change would be the tough one, it was not. Sort of lucky that one of last vids watched before conversion, was yours so it was early in history. Thanks again for the effort. 👍 And, no more "EZ change" for JD. 😀

@faxmen09 👍

If you haven’t already checked the tire pressures, make sure that is done first as that can throw things off. After that, I would suggest making your adjustments at the 3” or 3 1/2” deck heights and matching the blade height to one of those deck settings. I don’t know if that would make a difference for you, but I’ll put two video links below that show making the adjustments from those heights. One of the videos is a John Deere video. And incidentally, 3 1/2” is the height that I used. If 2 1/4” is your preferred height for mowing, you don’t have to make the adjustments at 2 1/4”. It’s just a calibration that can be done at any deck height that assures all settings to be accurate. Hopefully that makes a difference for you. Let me know. czcams.com/video/6foe8OWMIU4/video.htmlsi=SFikbkuTgzgqL_oo czcams.com/video/VNybAm6gMAY/video.htmlsi=nmfuL8-_NCIdw37d

@@DIYBoomers Thank you so much, did as you recommended, it works like a charm now, I really appreciate your assistance in this matter.....

@benk4881 Absolutely, you’re welcome. Always glad to hear that I was able to help someone out. Happy mowing!

Yes, correct. John Deere recommends adjusting the scalp wheels so that they sit 1/8” to 1/2” above a level surface depending on where the mowing height is set.

@@DIYBoomers I think my last question is, you leveled the blades at 3.5 inches, the manual says to do it at 2 1/4, does that really matter to do it either way. Thank you again for your help...

@benk4881 You’re welcome. Looks like the manual has two different methods that they suggest. The first method is stating 2 1/4” because it is telling you to lower the deck down onto 2” blocks. That’s the only reason they’re referencing 2 1/4”. The second method outlines using the gauge that I used. In this method, it states setting the deck height to your preferred height. So as I mentioned in my answer in the other thread, it doesn’t matter what height you use when you’re using the gauge, but I would suggest 3” or 3 1/2” as demonstrated in the two videos that I referenced. Below are the links again. Hopefully that clears up the problem for you. Let me know. czcams.com/video/6foe8OWMIU4/video.htmlsi=SFikbkuTgzgqL_oo czcams.com/video/VNybAm6gMAY/video.htmlsi=nmfuL8-_NCIdw37d

You can certainly leave the chutes off if you don’t plan on mowing without the mulching kit. Personally, I alternate using the kit, the plug and normal discharge, so I just leave the chutes on all the time. In the spring when the grass is so thick and growing like crazy, I leave mulching blades on, but don’t use the kit or the plug. I also hold the big chute up a little with a bungee to allow the clippings to spread out more on the lawn. Late spring and through the summer after the grass has thinned out a bit, I’m normally using the plug with the mulching blades. That makes it easy to take the plug off if the grass is still too thick and starts to clump. I use the mulching blades and kit late summer and fall. I think the kit works best for mulching leaves. As far as the belt coming off, I’ve never had a problem with that. Is the mower and/or belt new? If it is, I would definitely be contacting your dealer or John Deere itself. If not new, I would still consider talking to my dealer to see what they recommend. You could take a look at these two videos I found (links below), that discuss issues with the belt. The first describes engaging the belt at low idle which can make a difference. The second video shows how to adjust tension on the belt if the belt is too loose. These are just two that I found real quick, you can find many others by searching. Good luck! czcams.com/video/ME33JB0GxhA/video.htmlsi=17y7QxZVq6R27vWt czcams.com/video/iXy0nSfg7h4/video.htmlsi=eoGDds64ya9ofDNn

I just got a S110 and am doing the same procedure. Did you get any info on removing the plastic guard? Thanks!

@johnmonroe3. Is this a question for @HartfordWhaler or @DIYBoomers? If it’s for me at DIY Boomers, I don’t understand the question. Could you explain further? Thanks

@@DIYBoomersthe question was for Hartford Whaler. He had just completed the same procedure on his John Deere s110. Thanks for your response.

@@johnmonroe3 had to figure it out myself. Remove the plastic chute. To do it, take the whole chute assembly off, then take the pin out and take off the large plastic chute. Put the springs and pin back on the smaller metal chute and mount that back to the deck. It will work without the metal chute, but it looks better, is safer, and prevents grass and dust from flying around. Worth the effort. I love the mulch kit.

You’re welcome! Hopefully the video was informative for you.

The trim that we used is made by the same manufacturer as the shiplap that we used. It’s made by Metrie and is a 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 12’ piece of MDF molding that I ripped in half to make pieces that are just over 2 1/2” wide. They are also pre painted on the face and both sides, so ripping them in half leaves one unfinished side which I placed against the side wall, floor and ceiling. We purchased the Metrie Shiplap and the Metrie molding at Lowes, but I can’t find the molding on the Lowes website now. I did find it on another website so I’ll put a link to it below so you can see the product. sutherlands.com/products/item/339648/metrie-5-12-inch-x-1116-inch-x-12-foot-white-mdf-s4s-board

No problem, here’s a link below. MoJack 500 lb Zero Turn & Lawn Tractor Jack amzn.to/4ak5KwK

No problem, here’s a link below. MoJack 500 lb Zero Turn & Lawn Tractor Jack amzn.to/4ak5KwK

Yep, I have to agree. I was surprised by what all you get with this Skil router for what it costs.

I’m happy with it, always enjoy finding a good value.

You’re welcome. Always glad to hear the videos are helpful. Yeah, it still has me scratching my head what is behind the decision to implement the quick change. I agree with your thoughts on why they did it. Time will tell how that all works out. I really like how easy the drain hose makes the oil changes. I’m sure you’re going to enjoy your new S130. Good luck with your conversion and thanks for watching.

We used VersaBond LFT (Large Format Tile). We got it at Home Depot. Here’s a link below. www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-VersaBond-LFT-50-lb-White-Fast-Setting-Medium-Bed-Mortar-for-Large-Format-Tile-and-Stone-VBLFTMW50/205789804

John Deere recommends changing your oil every 50 hours or once a year, whichever comes first. You’re welcome, thanks for watching!

Thanks! Yeah, we were pleased with how much easier it made the job and the quality of the spreader.

Thanks, you’re welcome.

You’re welcome. Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful! We’re happy with this one. It’s easy to use and it does a better job than others that we’ve had.

You’re welcome. Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful. Did you decide on one or the other?

Looks like it would do the job. Also a bit cheaper than buying Briggs & Stratton drain hose 594200 and the oil drain plug. I had never seen that hose, and I can’t seem to find any info on which engines it fits, I would check that first. Another consideration is that there is no clip fastened to it like the one on 594200. That clip secures the hose to the bracket on the Briggs & Stratton engines that is specifically designed for that purpose. Without that clip, you’d have to figure out a way to secure the hose. Other than that, it looks like a good hose.

@@DIYBoomerson Amazon it lists the Briggs engine it’s compatible with. Looks like the non drain end is threaded so screws into the engine at the oil drain hole. I did an oil change on a Cub cadet with this type of tube was much easier. A kubota had a plastic valve that you put an .5” ID tube on then removed after it drained. All seem better than the Deere pre load and. Single bolt drain which pours everywhere.

Lots of options.

Shower

Shower

Sorry about that. The shower base was custom made from Encompass Shower Bases (see link below). They were great, they give instructions to custom fit it to your installation. Also, take a look at our video that describes the shower base and installation preparation in more detail (also link below). And check out the rest of our videos in our Bathroom Remodel playlist. Shower Demo & Solid Surface Curbless Shower Base Prep czcams.com/video/m3eeNYDf0Is/video.htmlsi=DVnaStAEKaoQSUic encompassshowerbases.com

You’re welcome! Yeah, it seems no matter what product is being reviewed, there’s always some negative feedback, some more than others. Although the Rip Cut Guide isn’t the heaviest of tools, it does a great job when used properly.

Mine was out of square, so I had to fiddle with it quite a bit to make the fence parallel to the blade.

Hopefully it’s working properly for you now.

Glad you liked it, thanks for watching.

Awesome, always enjoy finding good deals! Also really like the lift.

The Briggs & Stratton drain hose is made for use with Briggs & Stratton engines. It’s a very durable rubber hose. We had a Craftsman tractor for over 10 years before this JD S130, and the Briggs & Stratton engine on the old Craftsman came stock from the factory with a Briggs and Stratton oil drain hose on it, which we never had any issues with.

@@DIYBoomersthank you. I’m planning on take care of some conversions to this kit for customers I have and will certainly consider this option. I Appreciate the detail in the video and quick reply!

@@SendItBilly No problem, you’re welcome! Yeah, I like it. I’m sure the rigid pipe drains do a good enough job for avoiding oil spill, but I just like the convenience of the hose.

@TiffanySmith-vb3lq I looked at the description for the washers on Lowes website and they describe them as adding strength to the installation. It says - when used, you can increase the distance between fasteners to 12” (instead of 8” without them). Same with the fiber tape. I’ve read in the past that it’s an enhancement to add strength and increase adhesion for the thinset, but not required. I was satisfied with the strength of our installation before they started selling the tape, but we did have the thinset slide a bit in spots on the joints. We had to play with the thinset a little, but it wasn’t a major problem, especially since we were using 24” tiles.

Thanks!!

You’re welcome! Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful!

Thank you and you’re welcome! I’m 7 years older than you. Us senior DIYers need anything that will make things easier on us!

Sure, that’ll work just fine.

That’s a new one on me! Sounds like it got the job done alright. Good job, I always like finding a work around. Like the old saying goes - Necessity is the Mother of Invention!

Thanks. Yeah, I wish it stayed that way. Those first few S130 videos were shot in the second half of the mowing season in 2021 with around 30 hours on it. (Bought it in August 2021). I keep it as clean as reasonably possible by blowing it all off with my leaf blower after each use. It now has 146 hours on it and like any other tractor that we’ve had, the underside of the deck gets covered with dried grass residue. I just recently scraped that all off this spring. Probably should do that more often but you know how that goes.

We just bought our S130 at Lowe’s along with a Bagger attachment. The bagger came with the mulching blades ironically. You would think they would just add the mulching plug as well, but that needed to be purchased separately. I wonder if they don’t think the factory blades are good for bagging?

The mulching blades are angled up a bit more on the back edge which gives more lift, so maybe that enters in to their thinking. That’s the only thing that I can think of.

No, I didn’t. GoBoard installation does not require gluing to the studs. Check out the link below for the Johns Manville installation instructions for GoBoard. www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/GB-001-GoBoard-Installation-Instructions-and-Technical-Data.pdf

@@DIYBoomers thanks for the reply, yea I checked their video out, it badly needs to be updated (if it’s the same one I watched from 8 years ago). They’re taking about possibly using a nail gun to install the foam board- that’s insane. Even backer on screws seem not enough holding power so I ordered the same screws you used.

Yeah, we thought the GoBoard fasteners worked really well. Good luck with your project!

Pretty close to the same story with me. The old Craftsman sat in the garage for over 20 years until I retired. The Delta 36-T30T3 30 Inch fence is advertised on Amazon at a list price of $399, however it has always been marked down to either $260 or occasionally $208 since I started looking for it. So if you keep an eye on it, you should be able to pick one up for $208. (Amazon link below) Delta 36-T30T3 Fence System amzn.to/41lKSkH

We ordered the custom shower doors online from Frameless Shower Doors (link below). www.framelessshowerdoors.com/?vt_keyword=frameless%20shower%20door&vt_campaign=17543477754&vt_adgroup=143220485972&vt_loc_interest&vt_physical=9022344&vt_matchtype=p&vt_network=g&vt_placement&device=m&keyword=frameless%20shower%20door&placement&adgroup=143220485972&campaign=17543477754&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADrPpU_VShffGscVSmTXHrcI9vzBL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwir2xBhC_ARIsAMTXk87MqJV421fmC0CgnSlW6GZWvIO3sX5Ak2iOu2_rlf-1-ZLadBWTvjUaAjVpEALw_wcB

Thanks for watching. Yeah, if there’s anything I can do to avoid an oil mess, I’ll do it. I like the way you described overpaying for an oil change that doesn’t even get the job done!

It’s not really a flange. The manufacturer (Encompass Shower Bases) calls it a shower base side wall. It’s 1/2” thick and 4” tall. Check out the link below to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. On page 10, it clearly shows the backer board to be installed on top (flush) with the side wall and with a 1/8” gap between them to be filled with 100% silicon. encompassshowerbases.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Encompass-Shower-Installation-Guide_0115a.pdf?_gl=1*1l34nae*_up*MQ..

Absolutely. It would be an understatement for me to say that I was very pleased with how well that worked out.

No problem, you’re welcome. Yes, the hammer drill and chisel do a great job. But after you get the tile up, there’s a good amount of thinset that still needs to be removed. I was very impressed with the tools that made removing the thinset an absolute breeze. I’ll put a link below to the video where I used an angle grinder, a hub grinding wheel and a dust shroud for basically a dust free and effortless job. Good luck with your project! Remove Thinset Residue off of Subfloor with Angle Grinder @DIY Boomers czcams.com/video/-hpUpK847tw/video.html

You’re welcome! Hope you found it useful!

Yes, if you want to. Tap the link below to see the Johns Manville GoBoard Installation Instructions that state 1 1/4” backer board screws can be used as well as 1 1/2” galvanized roofing nails. Scroll down to the last page of the instructions to see the Approved Materials section. I’ll also give you a link below for the GoBoard Fasteners at Amazon if you’d rather use them. I like these as they have a larger head that helps avoid tearing the waterproof layer of the GoBoard. www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/GB-001-GoBoard-Installation-Instructions-and-Technical-Data.pdf GoBoard Fasteners - 550 pieces amzn.to/41F4aSm

It’s not really a flange on this type of shower base. It’s called a shower base side wall by the manufacturer (Encompass Shower Bases) that is 1/2” thick and 4” tall. I installed the 1/2” GoBoard flush with the wall and 1/8” up off of the wall and filled the 1/8” gap with 100% silicon, all as detailed by the manufacturer. A shower base that has a thin flange will require an entirely different type of installation. Check out the link below for Encompass Shower Bases installation instructions for bases with 1/2” thick side walls. Page 10 details the alignment of the backer board and the side wall. Good luck with your project! encompassshowerbases.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Encompass-Shower-Installation-Guide_0115a.pdf?_gl=1*1l34nae*_up*MQ..