Install Leecraft CR-1 Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert

Install the Leecraft CR-1 zero clearance table saw insert. Along with recently upgrading the rip fence on our old Craftsman model 113 to the Delta 36 T3 rip fence, this insert allows much more precise cutting on our saw.
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Delta 36-T30T3 Fence System
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Leecraft CR-1 Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert
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#InstallLeecraftCR-1ZeroClearanceInsert #TestCutTongueAndGrooveOnTableSaw #CraftsmanTableSawUpgrade

[@carterscustomrods]

I couldnt find any to fit my 315 228310 ... so I ended up making a few from sapelle and padauk. I needed zero clearance for several blade scenarios, and the premade zero clearances needed woupdve cost me as much as I paid for my saw (new in box $50) and the upgraded fence (Delta t4, like yours, $200.)
For cabinet and doors though, i still prefer router table due to a truly perfect accuracy compared to table saw.

[@DIYBoomers]

I understand completely. I initially tried the router table, but I was getting tear out. Don’t know if it was due to the hardwood (red oak), the cheap router bit that I had, or a combination of both. At any rate, I resorted to the table saw.

[@carterscustomrods]

@DIYBoomers yeah, you definitely want a coping jig, or at the very least, a sacrificial piece to put on the end of the board.
With that said, a table saw can do it just as well (although I'd still want a sacrificial piece to prevent tear out on the rear.) Also, a coping sled on a table saw would make it much easier as well... and they're super easy to make.

[@DIYBoomers]

@@carterscustomrods those are some good ideas 👍 I haven’t done a lot of woodworking and it’s always good to learn about better techniques! Thanks

[@DIYBoomers]

Brain cramp! I know doors aren’t built this way.
Never having built cabinet doors previously, I got carried away with the tongue and groove aspect as I was testing the process on the scrap pieces. I was more thinking about getting the pieces cut accurately than the actual construction.
When I came to my senses, I do know that the “tongue” on the rail is actually called a tenon in tongue and groove door construction, and that the tenon is usually cut by laying the rail flat on the table saw as it is not normally cut standing the rail vertically on its end.
I apologize for the misinformation. Check out the upcoming video on building the cabinet doors to see how they are built.
So the zero clearance insert isn’t really necessary for building the doors, unless you are using a jig to stand the rails upright to cut the tenons. But it will also come in handy on various types of cuts on narrow stock.