Upgrade Craftsman Rip Fence to Delta 36 T3 Rip Fence
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 18. 05. 2023
- The Delta 36 T30T3 rip fence is a great way to upgrade the Craftsman model 113.298762 table saw. We also look at using the Zero Clearance Leecraft CR-1 table saw insert and cleaning the rust off of the Craftsman cast iron table saw top.
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Delta 36-T30T3 Fence System
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Leecraft CR-1 Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert
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Johnson Level & Tool Aluminum Drywall T-Square, 48"
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Empire Level 6-Inch Pocket Combination Square With Stainless Steel Blade
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Jorgensen 24-Inch Steel Bar Clamp
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DeWalt 20V MAX Cordless Drill, 1/2", 2 Speed, XR 2.0 Ah Battery & Charger Included
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DEWALT DW1176 Oxide Drill Bit Set, Black 16-Pieces
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WD-40 Original Forumla, with Smart Straw Sprays 2 Ways, 8 OZ [3-Pack]
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B'laster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst 11-Ounces (2 Cans)
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#InstallDelta36T30T3RipFence #UpgradeCraftsman113RipFence #ZeroClearanceLeecraftCR-1TableSawInsert #CleanRustOffOfTableSaw - Jak na to + styl
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have the same saw and have been looking for a rip fence. This was excellent. Subsrcibed!
I'm a 100% disabled vet (six strokes that left my right side flaccid). I don't let that bother me. I've had a Craftsman Table Saw since 1994 or so. I wanted to change the fence and a few other things. I watched your video a few times and ordered the Delta T4 from Amazon. Luckily the box arrived in tact. I did the entire job alone. Piece of cake. Thanks for a video.
Youâre so welcome. Sounds like youâre very strong willed with the hand that was dealt you. Keep that mindset and thank you for your service.
Funny that you mention the box arriving intact. Our first Amazon shipment arrived with the box in pretty bad shape and the top of the fence was dented in a couple spots. Had to get a replacement. So anyway, Iâm glad that you were able to do the upgrade and Iâm sure that you will be enjoying the new setup on your Craftsman!
Found your video and did the same to my old craftsman. Thanks for all the time Iâll now save not triple measuring every cut! Only took me a couple hours to drill and tap everything. Thanks again
Youâre welcome. Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful. The new Delta fence ups the game of the old Craftsman tremendously. Itâs a decent saw, just needed an accurate fence. Iâm sure youâll be very satisfied with it!
Just did this to my old craftsman today. Should have done it years ago! Thanks for the guidance and tips
Youâre welcome! Always happy to hear that the videos are helpful. Yes, it absolutely turns the old Craftsman into a much more useful tool. I know that youâll be enjoying it.
Thank you for this video. I bought this unit and put it on my saw. I love it and it works great. But you made it sound a little more simple to install than it really was. But I love it and have been wanting one like it for years. But they were to expensive for me. This was a great price. Thanks again. Jerry Fox
Youâre very welcome! Sorry for the difficulty factor, I did try to highlight all the main points. Yes, I believe that anyone making this upgrade is going to be pleased with it, just as you are. I try to show tools and materials that are quality and at a reasonable price point. I agree, this was a great price.
I plan on doing this to my old 113. Great video thanks!
Youâre welcome, thanks for watching. Youâll really like it, the upgrade turns the old Craftsman into an entirely new machine!
Thank ! I've been looking for a good video for this fence upgrade. Excellent video, right to the point!
Thanks! Youâre welcome, always glad to hear that the videos are helpful.
Thanks for the video.
Did everything you did and it turned out great
Youâre welcome. Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful! Iâm sure youâll be enjoying your ânew sawâ. Thanks for watching.
Thanks... I have a 113 model that I inherited from my father. Really want this fence system for mine. As well as the billet pully set with the link belt. I have upgraded the throat plate and blade already as well as added some nice castors. Need to clean up the bottom casting on the wings (same has yours). I used some scotch brights pads on mine with WD.
Yup, youâre welcome! Sounds like youâve got it all under control. You wonât regret upgrading the fence, it turns the old Craftsman into a really decent table saw!
YES !
The t3 appears to just be a fence and doesn't provide any sort of adaptability for things. No jig mounting, or sacrificial face mounting options from what ive seen.
Instead i went with t-slot aluminum extrusions, and linear bearings to make it mobile. It cost about $30 less than the t3, and I only needed a single 40in piece of 1530 (1-Âœ" Ă 3") for the front fence rail and a 40" piece of 2040 (2" Ă 4" , not 20mm x 40mm) for my actual fence.
I added a 6533 linear bearing to front rail, and mounted it to the fence underside after building it up with flat joining plates. (I just used a piece of bedframe angle iron on the rear to keep wings attached and level with the saw.
Im really surprised more people do not go this route? It's so much nicer, flatter, and adds an unlimited level of modulation to your fence. Its also much tougher.
Sounds like you have a very versatile DIY setup! Good job!
I wish youtube allowed pictures in comments. I want to see it so bad I'm drooling...
@@brookspilcher9312 I agree on both counts. Iâd also like to see it, and thereâs been many occasions when adding pictures in the comments would be very useful.
Great video! I'm working on getting my fence onto my 113 but I bought the fence used and it didn't come with the alignment tool. Do you have the measurements so I can make a jig?
Thanks!
As you can see in the video, the front rail is installed with the horizontal plane of the angle iron on the bottom and the back rail is just the opposite. The back rail is installed with the horizontal plane of the angle iron on the top.
So for the front piece, the measurement from the top of the table, down to the top edge of the angle iron is 5/8â. Then from the top edge of the angle iron down to the horizontal plane of the angle iron is 1 and 15/16â.
As I mentioned, the back piece has the horizontal plane on top. The same section of the template that was used on the front piece is used here for the back piece. But since the horizontal plane for the back is on top, the slot that is cut into the template has to fit around the horizontal piece of the iron. So that first measurement on the top of the template down to the horizontal plane of the angle iron is the same (5/8â).
If youâre making a template that includes the slot, the slot is 1/4â wide.
Hope that helps you out. Good luck with the install!
May I ask, what are you using for a saw dust collection bag?
Sure, I bought the table saw dust collection bag from Harbor Freight (see link below). It fits my Craftsman table saw base perfectly. It secures with metal snaps that are intended to be installed by drilling holes in the saw base for the bottom piece of the snaps with the top of the snaps already secured to the bag. I installed it differently by gluing earth magnets inside the top portion of snaps that are already attached to the bag so that the bag is attached to the metal base more easily with the magnets and no holes are needed to be drilled in the base.
www.harborfreight.com/table-saw-dust-bag-45794.html
I have pretty much the same craftsman saw (contractor) that I bought NEW 30 some years ago. This looks great. I hate the fence I have but then what do I do with the old one?
Yeah, mine is that old too. Along with it looking great, it also works great. Sorry to see the old fence go, but no longer being useful, I put it in the bagster dumpster when we were doing a little garage clean up.
Brain cramp! I know doors arenât built this way.
Never having built cabinet doors previously, I got carried away with the tongue and groove aspect as I was testing the process on the scrap pieces. I was more thinking about getting the pieces cut accurately than the actual construction.
When I came to my senses, I do know that the âtongueâ on the rail is actually called a tenon in tongue and groove door construction, and that the tenon is usually cut by laying the rail flat on the table saw as it is not normally cut standing the rail vertically on its end.
I apologize for the misinformation. Check out the upcoming video on building the cabinet doors to see how they are built.
So the zero clearance insert isnât really necessary for building the doors, unless you are using a jig to stand the rails upright to cut the tenons. But it will also come in handy on various types of cuts on narrow stock.
How much does the fence cost? I have the same craftsman saw and haven't used it in 20 years
Pretty close to the same story with me. The old Craftsman sat in the garage for over 20 years until I retired.
The Delta 36-T30T3 30 Inch fence is advertised on Amazon at a list price of $399, however it has always been marked down to either $260 or occasionally $208 since I started looking for it. So if you keep an eye on it, you should be able to pick one up for $208. (Amazon link below)
Delta 36-T30T3 Fence System
amzn.to/41lKSkH
You should never wear gloves while using most woodworking equipment, especially those loose fitting garden gloves.
I plan to upgrade my craftsman table saw fence to the Delta T3. I, like you, will have to drill holes in order to affix the rails, however in your video, you don't state what diameter hole you have to drill in your Craftsman table saw.
I drilled the holes with a 5/16â bit. However I first made a divot with a nail set to guide a smaller bit to make a pilot hole. The pilot hole also made easier to then drill with the 5/16â bit. Good luck with your upgrade!
Hi what are the dimensions of the 2 peices of angle iron and the square tube i have the fence but no rails and i need to build some
The tube is 62 3/4 x 2 x 2
The front angle iron is 57 x 2 x 2
The back angle iron is 54 5/8 x 2 x 2
Donât know why the partial inch lengths but thatâs what was shipped. Good luck with your project!
Is the 2x2 steel tube one piece?
Yes it is.
I have the same craftsman table saw and ordered the delta rip fence you suggested. It workâs awesome however the old power shut off set up will not work with the new rails. I was hoping to mount a paddle switch but I donât know how are where it could be mounted to not
interfere with the fence movement. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Yes, I have an easy, no cost solution. After giving it some thought, I decided to just move the original switch to the right side of the right table extension, a few inches from the front of the table extension. It requires drilling two more holes in the cast iron edge, but it fits perfectly. It also works for plugging in the motor, so nothing else is necessary. The only possible drawback is that the switch is no longer on the front of the table saw, but it is easily within reach while standing in front of the table saw (although you have to reach over the new front rail). May not be everyoneâs choice, but it works out fine for me.
What about the riving knife? How did you resolve that?
To be honest, I havenât been using the guard and the riving knife and I donât even remember where the guard and riving knife arm attaches to the back side of the table. Iâll have to take a look at that. Do you happen to know where it attaches and if the new rail on the back is in the way?
I have the same model number saw. There is no riving knife or any possible way to retrofit one that I can figure out. It came with a splitter that many people didn't like and a lot of them were thrown out. Not uncommon to buy a used one that doesn't have it.
I rebuilt mine abs upgraded the motor to 1 1/2hp, machined pulleys and link belt, delta t36 fence, have a Shark Guard splitter and built a cabinet for it. The only thing left is figuring out dust collection and making zero clearance throat plates.
I didnât know the difference between a riving knife and a splitter before this. I just started using the old Craftsman recently and donât use the splitter and guard since I didnât have it on when I used it years ago.
I thought about making a zero clearance plate but found the Leecraft CR-1 zero clearance insert at a reasonable price. Figured Iâd give it a try at that price before going to the trouble of making one. I really like it as it fits very nice. I also have a video on the insert on the channel. Hereâs a link for the insert at Amazon if you want to take a look.
amzn.to/3t5Mx1r
Good video but why why why the crappy background noise!!!
Ha haaaaaaaaaa! Thanks (I guess). Honestly, itâs always a decision on what works best in the videos. Itâs an ongoing process that hopefully gets better over time. Just curious though, do you prefer no music, music at a lower volume, or just flat out, a better selection of music? đ
No music is just fine. Y'all can't please everybody so stop tryin. Plus it's a rip fence, not a strip tease. Jeez....
@cannonfodder3677 Thatâs great! Thanks for watching.
I didnât notice the music, I was paying attention to the details he was describing.
Thatâs interesting, I hadnât thought about those that feel that the music is not an issue one way or the other.
Hello what are thoughts How you like the fence now
Hello! Really liking it. Very stable and accurate. A big improvement over the stock fence on my old Craftsman!
Cool I just order mine. Have you rip a 4X8 Plywood in half at 24 and if so does flex or stays solid accurate is it strong enough.
This are my concerns.
Thank you.
I have ripped a 1/4â 4x8 sheet of plywood. It definitely stays locked in place and accurate. That is what I really like about it. It slides smoothly and evenly before you lock it down. It has adjustments to make it parallel to the blade and 90° to the table. So after you get it set up, it locks down very accurately. The fence that came with the table was very loose and inaccurate.
What brand of saw are you putting it on, do you have an old Craftsman?
You did some very excellent videography on the upgrade. The camera shots, instruction and demonstration were expertly done! I have the old Craftsman Direct Drive TS and made this upgrade to the Delta T30 system over 15 years ago. I paid $170 then and it was worth every penny. Itâs a great upgrade to our old TSâs that I would highly recommend. Itâs you did, also drilled the holes in my cast iron tabletop which was easier than I thought. The accuracy and strength of the fence makes my woodworking enjoyable! After all these years it is still as smooth and precise as the day I installed it. Oh, I took the rip guide and rod (that was sticking out of the back) off mine but know others have cut a groove in the back rail to accommodate it. Either way if anyone with an old craftsman is âon the fenceâ about this upgrade, just do it. If you do it right, I think you will love it like I have for over 15 years!