Mistakes were made! Almost took my leg off!
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- čas přidán 31. 03. 2021
- This was a bad idea that literally almost crippled me.
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Due to factors beyond the control of Worthless Whips, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Worthless Whips assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Worthless Whips recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Worthless Whips, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Worthless Whips. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
The fact you are willing to share mistakes, makes this all the more valuable for many of us middling mechanics! Really enjoy this channel!
Your tires are dated 3314
33rd week of 2014.
Look at the ovals, the first oval being (DOT)
Pre2000 tires would only have 3 digits instead of 4.
bfg comp2.. not even remotely a old tire haha
I'm glad someone else commented on this. They weren't making that model of BFG in the 90s. Lol. That being said, those tires are 6 years old and need to be replaced. After 5 years the rubber beings to break down and they're no longer capable of performing as designed.
Thanks for pointing out how amateur his comment was :) I salute you sir!
Also the factory tire was a Goodyear Gatorback
@@Avi8tor857 CORRECT! And the Same era Mustang GT used them too.
Using a dremmel while wearing sandals near the blade, man you really learnt your skills in Asia, take care in future....😀
I was thinking the same thing lol. No OSHA in Asia!
Yes, wear some work boots!
Flip flops are for the beach not the garage!
Winston so proud m8 ya got the umm flip flops that's how ya say it in Merica lol in Aussie they are thongs lol
@@nevTk-oe9ud in the U.K. thongs are like g string undies with the back bit fitting in your bum crack, although not quite so severe as a g string as they're like a cheese wire in your crack 😂
There's no way those tires are 30 years old, they have to be less than a decade, they look good and I believe Sport Comp-2 started being made in the mid 2000s
Tire manufactures didn't start stamping the date into tires untill 2000ish
@@tylermartelle7041 actually all the major tire makers Michelin, Firestone, Goodyear.... Have been using them since the 70's
On the right side it says 3314, so I'd say 2014
@@dajgorolabinac Yeah, I agree. 33rd week of 14...Late July/Early August 2014
I'm glad you're wearing you safety thongs.
Cheers from Australia
As a transmission rebuilder. You made me wince a few times but you did alright. You could be shown a few tricks working in a real shop at some point. Never trust that garbage jack and ramps. Get a block of wood and some 2x4s. FYI it would have broken your leg. You are very lucky. Wear boots FFS. You have no idea how easy it is to lose toes or you would be wearing them.
Car CZcamsrs all have a Safety Third mentality and teach all kinds of dangerous practices to young mechanics. They are always an injury lawsuit away from caring, though.
@@james_chatman the fact that suing someone that you watched making a CZcams video (not a how to video), because you copied them, even crossed your mind, is gross.
I was thinking of the Snap-on knockoff they sell at Harbor Freight. I have that one and it's great.
@@james_chatman I mean being self taught in nearly any field or skill will usually come with blind spots in things such as safety or proper technique. Anyway, you Americans sure do love to think about and resort to lawsuits for everything.
If your car was made in Van Nuys GM factory from the 90’s, you might find a beer can inside the car door. Watching this makes me want to start a go fund me account for you to buy semi decent power tools.
I got two made in van buys
@@rickjamesjr6651 🍺🍺
Ohhh... I knew what was gonna happen and I was just cringing!
Early in the video I thought the car was gonna fall. My friend is a pro mechanic and it killed a guy he worked with a couple of years ago. He watched him die, so tragic! Anyway, glad that spring missed you and _really_ glad it wasn't the car falling!
This is why I always kept a roll of cut carpet the size of the front end also acted as a drip pad while working. Also, come man flip flops?? lol
I rebuilt half my car at home while wearing "flip flops" 😆🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
@@CPMest81 It can be done but soon as something drops or hits your foot the flip flops get retired from work detail.
@@olliefoxx7165 yep pretty much 😆 I've been lucky so far.
@@CPMest81 until you lose a toe...
The tire date code is 3314 the 33rd week of 2014. Aug 2014. It's right under the "S" in "Sport." And turn the block you have the jack on, so that the holes are vertical. (Like it would be when building a wall.) that is the direction it is strong. It's weak in the direction you have it in.
Damn, this is nerve wrecking, watching the entire episode knowing something is gonna go wrong. Now with every action you do in the video my mind is imagining the worst ways they can go wrong..
You got that right 👍
Anyone would think it was clickbait?
@@puggsincyberspace Nah Winston hates clickbait
And with flip flops on.
I once had to replace an exploded front rotor wheel bearing in a '95 Ford explorer in a Kroger parking lot at 4:00 AM on a cold snowy night at White House Tenn. I was a professional Industrial machine mechanic and traveled with a bunch of tools, and already had purchased front bearings with the intent on replacing them soon. The rear bearing race was welded to the hub shaft, had a MAPP gas torch, the cold snowy weather actually helped, I'd heat it up to glowing then quench it with snow, was able to eventually get it off.
Buy a rubber Horse Mat from Amazon, they are great for working on things in your garage and it will keep those risers from sliding away.
if you have a Tractor Supply or animal feed store nearby, they're much cheaper than Amazon
@@christopherhindle8371 a piece of old carpet will do it. Long enough to have the tyre on it before the tyre touches the ramp.
Also, backing on with a rear wheel drive car is obviously easier, as it forward on in a front-wheel drive car, but the carpet helps in both situation.
The rubber is better, but almost everyone has old carpet or rug. I've even successfully used ratchet straps.
Small little note, that cinder block is way stronger if flipped 90 degrees. Want the holes going north-south.
Was about to post the same thing.
plus a floor jack will move while jacking really big chance of breaking the cinder block.
a 4x4 wood block on top of the jack is safer i think.
well ive been doing it since for ever but yeah never mess under the car while jacking it anyway. 😅
i need to jack it high to fit my 6tons stand.
This channel almost NEEDS a mazda rx-8 , it's such a worthless whip but great fun.
for the sake of your tools and your own sanity, you should get a couple of breaker bars, one long enough for your wheels and axle nuts + a shorter one for the work general work. you can really put wear on your rachet exerting that much force
A breaker bar and a cheater pipe are must haves for anyone doing mechanic work.
Legit becoming my favorite CZcams channel behind ADV Podcasts.
Glad you didn’t get hurt!
I just got this same exact car that is pretty clean but the worst part is the floor pans which are pretty rusty so I have ordered new ones and will be putting them on whenever they come
The tires are from 2014. On the sidewall, near the rim, you can see 3314, which means the tires were produced in the 33rd week of 2014. All tires use this type of date code.
Exactly what I just commented and if they were a 90s tyre they would have a 3 digit dot code 147 would indicate 14 week 97 also if there was triangle before it meant 90s if remember correctly
dude dont use cinder blocks to support stuff...they crumble easy
Oof. This is why people use those clamshell compressor tools when possible.
Winston's hands: greasy as fuck
Winston: puts on gloves
Please get something like a thick wooden block to replace that cinder block you are using under the floor jack. I've lost one friend when cinder blocks suddenly crumbled and know of other incidents. Putting the wheel under the car is a good practice, I would also invest in a pair of heavier jack stands, and a wider heavier floor jack, but if you are careful you can use what you have I'd just never depend on those only. You can usually let the lower control arm down with a floor jack without compressing the spring and just pry the spring out without much drama, it's nice to have a spring compressor to make it easier to put the new one in place. I spent a long time in the auto repair business and appreciate your efforts and content showing how much you can get done yourself. Glad you didn't get hurt, not only your leg could've be broken but the ability for future additions to your family could have also been eliminated.
All your dad grunt noises lmao. I can relate
I especially liked 10:05
I just had this on in the background, and I'm thinking why am I listening to Winston take a dump?
I have the same car in black, and I just love it. The first thing I do when I buy a used car is replace the brake pads. I have since rebuilt the whole brake system. New drilled and slotted rotors, bearings, ceramic pads, new calipers, and high pressure brake lines, all four wheels, replaced the brake fluid too. I also did the Hotchkiss 1" lowering springs and other suspension parts. I hardly slow down going into turns now - so much fun.
Those are not the original tires. The car would have come with Goodyear Gatorbacks. Those BFG's weren't produced back then, that's a newer tire model.
Sport comp 2's came out in 2012. Glad you didn't get hurt. A lot of stored energy in a coil spring. 4th gen F-body front breaks fit these cars with only a little modification. Giving you twin-piston calipers and larger rotors. They even fit the 16" rims you have.
Love the safety sandals :)
Ha ha the best thing is to make sure no one is watching you ramp up. Gorgeous car.
Nice whip Winston!
Being an old retired mechanic. Funny thing you need to know. Wheel bearings and race are a matched set with the race. Always installed as a set. Just a point that you overlooked our don't know. Best of luck.
Thanks for that, I'll keep an eye on them
i’m glad you showed your errors as well, nothing ever goes perfectly like you see on TV!!
Winston, never have a concrete block on its side that way and have weight on it. If you are going to do that you need to turn the block so that the 2 open holes face vertically. Just looking at it gives me anxiety.
I've seen a couple others posting the same thing. Good advice.
You and WD40 reminds me of that guy with the Windex in My Big Fat Greek Wedding! More of a penetrant than a long term lubricant.
My 2 cents...When tightening that castle nut, I find it is best to simultaneously rotate the wheel/bearing in order to fully seat it, then back off to the desired end play. Otherwise, the weight of the rotor assy hanging down can trick you into thinking it is where you want it only to end up with too much end play once it is in operation.
Lubrication, penetration, it's all related
@@serpentza Well played
Hi Winston ! Nothing is quite as "telling" as a person who is not afraid to show his faults. Very impressive, bc you were quite correct in saying you could have just edited out the spring part. Some day, someone may approach you & tell you this video saved them from severe injury. Nice job, both on the car and the complete honesty! Drive safely & Stay Awesome😎💕
A few red brick under ramp help keep from sliding and add support some duct tape temporary set in place . We need you for global issues man , don't hurt yourself doing garage hobby. Nothing but love for you guys.
Glad you're ok, shit can go down in an instant when least expected. Also, a breaker bar is your friend and your ratchet will be happy too
Ive been using that wheel under the car trick since i was a kid! It is a fantastic thing to do. Its never said my life but it has saved cars from being all the way down in the gravel, dirt , mud making it alot easier to recover.
Winston, I think that Scotty Kilmer is on the phone... :-)
You and Ronald Finger are my two favorite automotive CZcamsrs at the moment!
The brakes on old cars make me wonder if the engineers thought "why stop when you can GO!"?
😆
why lol, the brakes were 40 years old and still stop as good or better than half of the new crap on the market
Check the last 4 digits of the DOT code on the sidewall. That tire appears to have been made in the 33rd week of 2014
"This is all that's holding your wheel on. Just this"
Yeah, I've seen what happens when those don't have a cotter pin in them. My mate's BMW 318 skidding along on its arse while the rear wheel bounced off into the distance at 30mph.
Great video! Thanks for showing all the challenges along the way.
If those are the original tires, I'm guessing the car's mileage isn't too high.
BFG Comp2's were not in production in the 90's.
@@Walt-td8ng He probably means the tires that came with the car when he bought it.
@@joecanis484 Yeah, cuz it totally makes sense to look for a stamped date on tires to know if you replaced them since you bought the car. No, he thought they were the originals. Hint: They aren't. He's not an actual mechanic, just an amateur, but people who know even less than he does think he is.
I normally wouldn't enjoy watching someone work on a car but SZA your personality, and charisma makes it an enjoyable watch plus I learn a lot along the way.
by the way, you dont need spring compressors working on these, put the jack under the control arm, then remove the shock, slowly lower the jack and the coil spring will safely and easily slide out
"never be afraid to break anything" sorry I'm terrified thinking of having to drill out exhaust manifold bolts from a cylinder head
MOST MISLEADING COMMENT EVER! 2021 Auto mechanic Academy awards..
Everything is repairable but you can damage things enough that it is no longer worth fixing.
Just extracted one and then broke another. Then broke an extractor flush with it. Just going to let a machinist deal with this lol. I can't weld atm
I remember a quote I got once for a water pump change: If bolts come out easily $350, If any bolt snaps: $1500 lol
Hope you packed more grease into those wheel bearings off camera.
The cable ties will eat through the rubber if you don't cut them off.
You need to tighten the castelated nut tight to get everything sitting flush, then back it off, checking drag as you do until its close to a hole,tighter is better than loose.
Do you chock the back wheels ? extra safety so the car cant rock back and fourth and fall off the stands.
Better extra safe than no more winston.
RULE - four super huge ZIP TIES before any final spring removal.
Will actually hold a static spring. And take up some of the stored energy.
A lesson - the compressor type used on 1980/90s Mercedes, with the notches on the centre shaft - can slip when worn, and the top & bottom plates spin ultra-fast letting go the entire compression.
Solution - inspect the notches, and use ultra-thin strips of rubber between the (top & bottom) clamping plates and the spring.
Very informative video and nice step by step, a front brake upgrade might be in my future and this really helped.
I gave up ramps because of that problem. Two possible solutions. I used three 2X4 studs, in a U shaped configuration, holding the ramps off the concrete back wall so they can't slide forward. The other solution is to staple a short piece of old carpet to the front of each ramp, so the weight of each tire on the carpet holds the ramp still while it is starting up the ramp.
Seeing those ramps shoot out the front reminded me of me and my Dad doing the same thing when changing the oil in his car. It was always a frightening experience.
WD40 only works for a short period of time. Use a rust encapsulator or rust converter instead.
I should add to use WD40 to displace any moisture, wire brush any loose stuff and then use the converter or encapsulatior a day later, wait a day then reassemble. This combo has never failed me.
I'm watching this at 7:20 and I'm chanting like a mantra, "I don't see any chocks, etc". I'll watch the rest and let's see if I'm right about what happens next...Nope. I was wrong. I'm also very glad the car didn't do half a pushup on you. It's interesting how the "bush mechanic" mentality stays with you. I just changed a tire by the roadside in Dec. and without thinking about it, I stuck the removed wheel under the rocker before installing the spare. Enjoying the practical aspects of your "shade tree" mechanic series.
I love this car! I have a 02 Firebird gt 237 and an 86 crx si and I love them to death. This channel has encouraged me to be hands on and learn about my wheels. Keep up the awesome work!
Bloody hell Winston, you were lucky. Thank god. You are right I thought from what I could see that it looked like the spring was contracting. I agree with what you say, even though they have problems , nice old cars are a real joy to tinker with . I could hear your baby in the background. I hope Sasha and your baby are doing well ❤️❤️👍🧸
"Having made a mistake that nearly took my leg off, I decided to use the wrong tool to cut metal right next to my bare foot."
You know while your cheap jack may be rated at a certain amount of tonnage that cinderblock is not. Very scary lol you had me on the edge of my seat. I'm in the shade tree mechanics union and we always have room for more Welcome.
Another awesome vid!.as others said, get a breaker bar, I got.about a dozen oc varying lengths, I grab the longest I think will fit and let the leverage make me look stronger than I actually am. :) Also mentioned electrical tape to hold the rubber to the top spring coil, 4 quick wraps at 4 corners works for me. Spring compressors suck, I have the same kind. On. 2nd gen firebird you don't need the 2md claws, instead you remove the shock, them run the threaded rod side through the shock hole, add the claws the the lowest cool, then throw a couple oiled washers and the nit at the shock mount at the top and start compressing the spring into the car until you can get the lower a-arm out ,not sure if that is possible on a 3rd gen. 4th gen if you get the shock/spring loaded for you the front springs is then rather straightforward.
Matt has the best job here, watching someone else do all the work lol
Winston there are soft hose clamps that are made out of plastic, they clamp the rubber hose tubes closed, so that you don't lose break fluid.
Great stuff. Good to see how this is done. The spring compression clamp section made me touch cloth ! 🤣
the tire manufacture date marking is 3314, it means it was made in year 2014, 33rd week of the year. This is as I see it on the front left wheel on the video.
I went through the trouble of completely rebuilding the calipers on my '79 T/A only to find that it was actually cheaper, after the core charge, to buy reman calipers. The only saving grace to my situation is that the tear down of my originals was worth it in order to blast and prep the calipers for paint.
What I like to do is open the bleeder valve before removing the caliper and compress the piston back into the caliper. Sometimes you do this by hand and other times, use a screwdriver or pry bar between pad and rotor.
Brake fluid is very hygroscopic and degrades the worst at the wheel cylinder or caliper chamber.
This process forces that old fluid out.
BTW, “spongey” brake feel is oftentimes attributed to degraded fluid or air in the lines.
Once you’ve compressed one side, have someone mash and hold the brake pedal to the floor before you close the bleeder valve. Remove the caliper, use a big C-clamp from Harbor Freight to keep it compressed while you do the other side.
With both sides compressed, now take a cheap turkey baster and suck all the fluid out of the master cylinder.
Top off with DOT 4 brake fluid.
I also would have removed the strut from the bottom first.
I usually take the top off the master cylinder and then use a giant C-clamp to compress the piston.
Man, that thing sounds sweet! GenX jealously in play.
The need for hanging the caliper thing is a an old wives tale that is somehow stayed in the common fabric of lore like 8 cups of water per day.
A flexible brake hose has to take at least 2000psi of pressure, hanging it for a short period is not going to do anything. If you want to keep it out of your way makes sense but there is no harm in hanging it.
Also if you want to extend the life of your calipers when you change your pads you should bleed the brakes every time. It gets any potential gunk out that may end up sticking things up as it tends to work its way to the caliper which usually is what causes stuck calipers.
I like the way you run that grinder just inches from your nearly bare feet. You've got some BIG balls Winston!
The spring compressor first of all is the wrong tool for the fbody. But cutting it down as you did you can use it. Second of all the best and easiest way to do this is to put a floor jack under the a-arm (not a bottle jack unless it has a large base). Take the strut off the car and then slowly lower the jack. If there is still tension then compress the spring and remove it. The strut on a thirdgen doesn't have cam bolts so taking it fully off the car doesn't greatly effect alignment(obviously changing the spring does effect alignment)
Also the rubber isolators are cheap and should be replaced anytime you do springs.
Next cinder blocks have absolutely no purpose for working on cars... Throw those away. Buy a new jack that is tall enough.
If you ever need advice on the thirdgen I have taken mine apart fully and put it back together when I did my LS swap. I've also rebuilt almost everything on the car at least twice. My 1989 Formula has 220k miles and I've owned it since 1998.
And the factory tires would have been Goodyear Gatorback.
Can see the tyre date at around 5:19 - it’s the 4 digits in a round oval. The last two digits are the suffix of the year, which show 14, making them 2014 tyres. The first two digits say which week in that year, which looks like 33.
For extra torque on hex nuts that I am trying to loosen or tighten, I usually use an extension tube, basically any pipe of suitable length that can be attached securely to the wrench. I have used greater than five foot pipe extensions in some cases where the nut was too difficult to remove. Usually you can avoid being under the vehicle with a longer extension pipe.
I am not a Safety Sally, but I would not recommend that any home mechanic do strut work. I worked for a corporation that built thousands of tools including several models of strut compressors. I was giving a generic plant tour to an executive of a major car manufacturer. We came across a machine that was making parts for a new design. I thought it would be okay to show him the prototype in R&D, which I had access to, since he showed interest.
It turned out that he had a mechanic friend that dropped that dropped a competitor's tool and released the compressed spring. The spring shot through the shop, taking part of the guy's brain with it. He was never the same.
My one hour plant tour ended up being a two hour discussion in front of the prototype. Not sure how things turned out, since I retired, but he was going to recommend to upper management that all dealerships have that new, safe tool.
Here is a protip. My ramps had a hole in frint so i ties an old piece of a broken ratchet strap there. I drive the tires over the straps first, and that holds the ramps from sliding away. I expect a rope or anything would be sufficiently strong to hold the ramps under the tires.
Now dub it in Chinese with English subtitles. Lols. I had no idea that you had a car channel. Bravo!
I watch your videos of this car and it makes me miss the 1989 Firebird Formula I had in high school. Just a stock throttle body 305, but with the WS6 performance suspension and without t-tops.
I love the channel name and the things you do. Sums it up with my money pit that my family warned me about. I neglected mine over the years and now I have a great deal of work ahead of me.
When I first got ramps I had that issue so I used one of those cheap absorbent mats from Amazon under the ramps to keep them from moving. Now I use woden blocks that I measured and cut to go between the ramps and the concrete step up in the front of my garage.
Yikes! Glad you weren't hurt! Just a thought! When you purchase your new struts, you can step up a little and get double adjustable units for improved handling if you like. Safe Travels, and looking forward to the black bird! Cheers!
I always used a 1/2 inch drive 24 inch break over minimum when I got older I got a longer break over bar.
I have seen that exact same mistake made before . It generally woke up every one is the shop when they let go. I used contact cement to hold the rubber spring cushion in place only takes a little to keep it in place. Put I was changing those components on a regular basis because I was maintaining police cars. Brakes wear worn out in 3 or 4000 miles, all the suspension components got hammered to death on a dayle bases.
FYI - the date stamp on the tire is '3314' -July 2014. Also, I have those same Rino Ramps. As you demonstrated, they're not good to drive onto; rather, jack up the car and slide them under the tire.
At 4:51 you can see the date code. It is 3510 or 2510. So this tire was built on either the 35th or 25th week of 2010. You're welcome.
I believe those cars came with Goodyear’s
Get a C-clamp set to push the caliper piston in.
Those flip flops are OP
Early in the video I see a cinder block, never use a cinder block to support a car they aren't strong enough, when used in a wall they get fill with rebar and concerta supplying most of the load carrying compacity.
26:24 I haven't watched the entire video at this point so I don't know if what I'm about to say has already been addressed but...if you look at the top of the shock tower where it bolts to the inner fender...you see three bolts sitting in sliding channels. You can loosen them a little and that allows you to slide the top of the shock tower away from the master cylinder resiviour and get the shock nut off at the top. Just for future reference if it hasn't been addressed in the video already.
Once a Bush mechanic, always a Bush mechanic!!! :)
F'ing amateurs' :) hah you need to have a worthless live stream so we can answer your questions! Also I could have saved you tons on your trans am restore :)
I KEEP SAYING THAT and all i get is a negative answer, lolz, Thank god my comment section is quiet! That means im doing my work the right way!
I used to put a couple old cylinder heads from a small block chevy in front of my ramps, and then when the car was up, I'd move the cylinder heads back behind he rear wheel as a chock. If you don't have old cylinder heads lying around, then sand bags, or large bags of kitty litter will work.
Interesting as always. Like some of the others, I was afraid the car was going to come down at some point. Great suspense, waiting for something to happen.
As soon as I saw the video title I knew it had something to do with the springs/shocks. Super dangerous shit on these older cars, especially when everything is rusted and seized. Watched my coworker cut the coil springs out of an old fire chicken, only way for us to get them out and they are like bullets when they explode.
Dude that White lettering makes an already beautiful car look even more beautiful. It looks amazing. Great job! 😛👍🏻👍🏻
Wearing Australian safety boots is fine for an oil change, but not for brakes and suspension rebuilds. Love the video and that Pontiac!
The seal has a spring. You can unwind the spring and cut a quarter inch off the large end. Makes a tighter fit and the seal last longer.
Are you talking about the bearing seal?
I dont think you can do that to rubber seals with inner springs
Hmmm..
+ bolting your ramp down or choke your ramp would make it dig down
+ Breaker bar or a pipe slotted at the end of your wrench would help
+ wd40 for every bolt would also help
+ drilled holes are prone to cracking under heat as it heats up unevenly (ie heats more near the wheels) worthwhile getting grooved and dimpled but not drilled
+ you can also use cable tie for hanging brakes
+copper/moly grease on the rotating things to help for next change...
+ where is your axel stands sitting? Looks slippery...
+ for the spring compressor, one side moves the other side should stay still, the side moving as you tighten should be pointing downwards so it doesn't hit your strut tower XD
As you mentioned you can jack the suspension up without putting too much force on the spring compressor.
+... You can have too much grease, it can overheat and cause resistance
I’d definitely recommend braided brake lines from Earl’s and upgrade the shocks and struts to Bilsteins.
Great job and informative video, thanks. I envy you, to be honest. I haven't had that kind of energy and passion about anything anymore, since my late 20s.
The problem isn't the weight...It's the fact that the driven wheels are in the rear. Think about it....When you are backing up onto the ramps in a rear wheel drive car, the wheels are PULLING the car up the ramps. When you are trying to drive up the ramps in the front, the rear wheels are PUSHING the car up the ramps, and the ramps get pushed ahead.
Won't the lowering springs change the alignment geometry? Or would it be within tolerances?
I always use zip ties to hang my calipers. Works very well. Quick and easy...
Also, those new rotors allow the gasses to escape much easier, allowing better braking as well. I thought of getting them but I keep hearing there are 2 sides to the benefits of this....
The bearing races are the surfaces that the actual pin or ball bearings "race" around in. So the races for your applications are part of the actual bearings you are going to be putting in, not the rotors....
In a situation like that, with the bushing, I just grease them up and they stay in place...
Appreciate the advice!
I daily drove "F" bodies for many many years.
If you lower them ANY amount, they will hit / drag on speed bumps and the front body will hit parking blocks if you pull up to them.
GM did a good job with this suspension, most "upgrades" are detrimental.
Around 0.83 g's on the skid pad stock, is pretty good
Weld in sub frame connectors and trailing arm upgrades to prevent wheel hop, are the few upgrades that actually help
Easiest and safest way to put this model on ramps, is to floor jack one tire at a time and slide the ramps into place under each tire.
If the front and rear need to be raised at same time for maintenance (clutch replacement), then use ramps in the front and jack stands in the rear under the solid axle to raise up the entire car.
Those rams are a death trap. Make a set of blocks out of 6x6 that you lower the tires onto using a floor jack. 2x4 on the outsides to keep the tires from rolling off of the blocks. Cheers!