Back with the Remington Model 51 for some insight into grip panel removal. Seems like nothing on this pistol was of a common design.....John Pedersen sure did some crafty work.....
I used to make replacement grips out of Gaboon Ebony. This was at the time I had the machines and tools while I was making stocks for John Martz the Luger carbine maker. I had to make my own rivets and hand carve the Remington logo. Ebony carved very well.
I really appreciate you doing this video, I didn't think it would happen this soon. You're my new hero. I can kinda understand now how to manage the grips situation thanks very much! It really is a unique gun, not a conventional locked breech but a variation of one I guess. The bullet has exited the barrel by the time the case has truly in an unlocked state
I just got one of these in .32 and it needs a deep cleaning. It is a challenge opening it for certain. Browning patents really limited Pederson to thinking outside the box. Just the grip lock mechanism alone, just think how much more expensive this system is compared to 2 screws.
That breech block is fascinating. Amazing that firearm gurus still quibble over the type of action the 51 is because of its uniqueness. That definitely goes beyond patent dodging. Thanks for tuning in!
The replacement grips I have seen are like the ones you pictured. The two large rivets will actually fall out of the old grips once you remove the steel plate by gently prying it up and sliding it down to the larger holes. I have done this. Then the rivets can be used on the new grips. However, the center stud appears to be either glued or possibly screwed into the back of the grip. I didn't try to see if it could be removed and reused. I replaced the grip panel by sliding the steel plate back in place. The process is a bit fiddly, but not that bad to do.
I'll probably pick up another one to have a spare. Just use conventional fmj ammo and I think we will be all right. I have shot mine once but after about 5 shots the ejector came off. Luckily the ejector pin stayed on so I was able to reattach it and hopefully put the pin back tighter. Haven't shot again yet but I liked the way it did shoot until then.
I see the part you mean......tiny pin holds it in. Was comparing it to the FN Model 1910 in the garage tonight.....you think a comparison video is a good idea?
Type II .380 1921-1927 15 slide serrations, .380 caliber marked on barrel, has Remington logo on right side THE REMINGTON ARMS-UNION METALLIC CARTRIDGE CO., INC. REMINGTON ILION WKS. ILION, N.Y. U.S.A. PEDERSEN’S PATENTS PENDING. Very late issue guns are stamped “REMINGTON ARMS COMPANY, INC. ILION WKS. N.Y. U.S.A. PEDERSEN PATENT/PAT’D. MAR.9 20, AUG.3 20, OCT.12 20, JUNE 14 21 OTHERS PENDING.” Yours was probably made in 1925.
you are wrong the slide had no serial numbers and the older slides have the straight grooved serrated/grips on the slide - the later have the oblong ones...the breach blocks crack at the rear along the center line and if not caught - if you do not see it when apart and you are cleaning it - it will fracture apart as your's did - so watch out!
Finding a .380 breach block was near impossible but I did it......fired it through a mag to check functionality and will probably never shoot it again for fear of it breaking. Sad but true. Probably will last for quite a while under use but I’m not chancing having to find another one.
I used to make replacement grips out of Gaboon Ebony. This was at the time I had the machines and tools while I was making stocks for John Martz the Luger carbine maker. I had to make my own rivets and hand carve the Remington logo. Ebony carved very well.
Thanks for sharing.....wish I had a few sets of those!
I really appreciate you doing this video, I didn't think it would happen this soon. You're my new hero. I can kinda understand now how to manage the grips situation thanks very much! It really is a unique gun, not a conventional locked breech but a variation of one I guess. The bullet has exited the barrel by the time the case has truly in an unlocked state
I just got one of these in .32 and it needs a deep cleaning. It is a challenge opening it for certain. Browning patents really limited Pederson to thinking outside the box. Just the grip lock mechanism alone, just think how much more expensive this system is compared to 2 screws.
That breech block is fascinating. Amazing that firearm gurus still quibble over the type of action the 51 is because of its uniqueness. That definitely goes beyond patent dodging. Thanks for tuning in!
The replacement grips I have seen are like the ones you pictured. The two large rivets will actually fall out of the old grips once you remove the steel plate by gently prying it up and sliding it down to the larger holes. I have done this. Then the rivets can be used on the new grips. However, the center stud appears to be either glued or possibly screwed into the back of the grip. I didn't try to see if it could be removed and reused. I replaced the grip panel by sliding the steel plate back in place. The process is a bit fiddly, but not that bad to do.
How did you figure that out? Chinese puzzles foe sure.
Thanks
I'll probably pick up another one to have a spare. Just use conventional fmj ammo and I think we will be all right. I have shot mine once but after about 5 shots the ejector came off. Luckily the ejector pin stayed on so I was able to reattach it and hopefully put the pin back tighter. Haven't shot again yet but I liked the way it did shoot until then.
Can tell by your problem it’s in .32 caliber.
@@MilsurpGarage No, it's a 380 why would you think it's a 32?
@@garylewis3641 The .32 caliber examples have extractors (not ejectors) that fall out all the time during disassembly because of the different design.
@@MilsurpGarage Yeah I know what you mean but this is the ejector sticking up towards the back of the frame, make sure yours is on tight!
I see the part you mean......tiny pin holds it in. Was comparing it to the FN Model 1910 in the garage tonight.....you think a comparison video is a good idea?
you have a later frame and an earlier slide - a lot of 51's have the mismatch...
Not so sure about that.....all the guns I’ve seen in my SN range have my slide and the older ones have that “other” slide. You sure?
Type II
.380 1921-1927 15 slide serrations, .380 caliber marked on barrel, has Remington logo on right side THE REMINGTON ARMS-UNION METALLIC CARTRIDGE CO., INC. REMINGTON ILION WKS. ILION, N.Y. U.S.A. PEDERSEN’S PATENTS PENDING. Very late issue guns are stamped “REMINGTON ARMS COMPANY, INC. ILION WKS. N.Y. U.S.A. PEDERSEN PATENT/PAT’D. MAR.9 20, AUG.3 20, OCT.12 20, JUNE 14 21 OTHERS PENDING.” Yours was probably made in 1925.
Good Evening
could you please email me the drawings from the handle plates so I can make copies for .380....
thanks
you are wrong the slide had no serial numbers and the older slides have the straight grooved serrated/grips on the slide - the later have the oblong ones...the breach blocks crack at the rear along the center line and if not caught - if you do not see it when apart and you are cleaning it - it will fracture apart as your's did - so watch out!
Finding a .380 breach block was near impossible but I did it......fired it through a mag to check functionality and will probably never shoot it again for fear of it breaking. Sad but true. Probably will last for quite a while under use but I’m not chancing having to find another one.
Anyway I appreciate it again and wish I had your address or email so I could contact you easier! Take care
🟥 So to replace the Other grip....does the cross pin move the other way and not come out?
I believe so.
@@MilsurpGarage OK. Thanks. I'll try it