When I owned a .32 ACP Remington Model 51 years ago I made an L shaped tool on a wooden pear shaped handle that dissembled the barrel safely from the slide.
For those people considering one of these to actually shoot, wouldn’t a full disassembly be necessary to check for cracks or other flaws in that pivoting block? I’ve seen a few for sale online, but it seems like an $800 risk just assuming it will function or that there isn’t an impending breakage.
You don't get to detail-strip a gun before you buy it. These aren't really shooters any more. There are a few things to check from the outside. First, you pull the slide back and lock it open and you can see up into the bolt. Verify that it is still intact and one or both sides hasn't cracked off. Second, you can see if the grips are cracked, as they are prone to do. That's about it. If you're buying online and they don't disclose it, you can ask for them to do the same thing. Really, the bolt is the major point of failure. If it's not cracked, you're probably good. If you take it to a gunsmith, good luck that he knows enough about the gun. I know of only a handful of people who are competent enough to work on one of these, and I would only work on my own guns.
@@RyeOnHam Right - I’m reluctant to buy one online. I did see one for sale at a gun show. If I can get a good look at that pivoting bolt, I may buy it. I really want to shoot it though: I have enough aluminium-frame and polymer-frame guns that now I’m only interested in all-steel guns of the past and this one is both good looking and mechanically interesting. Thanks for the video.
Correct. I demonstrate the system in some of my other videos. The barrel stays still while the bolt and slide are shoved back by the cartridge. The bolt stops after about .060" and the slide continues. After a half an inch of travel or so by the slide, it lifts the bolt out of the locking shoulder and pulls the case the rest of the way out to eject it. The barrel stays put this whole time.
+RyeOnHam Thank you for clarifying that to me, the reason I commented was because at some point you mentioned, most surely by mistake, that the three elements, barrel, slide and block move back toghether
chapiit08 I don't remember saying that, but it's possible. Might have misspoke. Might have said, "Case" not barrel. Can't rewatch these things or that's all I would be doing with my life.
When I owned a .32 ACP Remington Model 51 years ago I made an L shaped tool on a wooden pear shaped handle that dissembled the barrel safely from the slide.
That's very interesting. I have a drawer in my tool box full of tools I've made over the years for various projects.
For those people considering one of these to actually shoot, wouldn’t a full disassembly be necessary to check for cracks or other flaws in that pivoting block? I’ve seen a few for sale online, but it seems like an $800 risk just assuming it will function or that there isn’t an impending breakage.
You don't get to detail-strip a gun before you buy it. These aren't really shooters any more. There are a few things to check from the outside. First, you pull the slide back and lock it open and you can see up into the bolt. Verify that it is still intact and one or both sides hasn't cracked off. Second, you can see if the grips are cracked, as they are prone to do. That's about it. If you're buying online and they don't disclose it, you can ask for them to do the same thing. Really, the bolt is the major point of failure. If it's not cracked, you're probably good. If you take it to a gunsmith, good luck that he knows enough about the gun. I know of only a handful of people who are competent enough to work on one of these, and I would only work on my own guns.
@@RyeOnHam Right - I’m reluctant to buy one online. I did see one for sale at a gun show. If I can get a good look at that pivoting bolt, I may buy it. I really want to shoot it though: I have enough aluminium-frame and polymer-frame guns that now I’m only interested in all-steel guns of the past and this one is both good looking and mechanically interesting. Thanks for the video.
It seems to me that the barrel doesn't travel back with the slide and locking block as can be attested by the round (not oblong) barrel lug hole.
Correct. I demonstrate the system in some of my other videos. The barrel stays still while the bolt and slide are shoved back by the cartridge. The bolt stops after about .060" and the slide continues. After a half an inch of travel or so by the slide, it lifts the bolt out of the locking shoulder and pulls the case the rest of the way out to eject it. The barrel stays put this whole time.
+RyeOnHam Thank you for clarifying that to me, the reason I commented was because at some point you mentioned, most surely by mistake, that the three elements, barrel, slide and block move back toghether
chapiit08 I don't remember saying that, but it's possible. Might have misspoke. Might have said, "Case" not barrel. Can't rewatch these things or that's all I would be doing with my life.