Woodworking's Perfect 1-2 Punch?
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- čas přidán 18. 03. 2023
- Router table, or table saw? Why not both?
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I love that your extending the videos in a sense. Someone poses a logical question and instead of just replying, you make another quick video for all to see with an explanation and testing! I love it
I like that you’re posting vids more often. You’re one of my favorite woodworking channels and I’m enjoying the content.
Just love how your videos are short, straight to the point, keep doing that.
Jodi - After watching your video on the L-Fence, I went out and made one. I have to tell you that this is one of the handiest tools I've built. Just finished building a bookcase and I used the L-Fence to trim all the solid wood edge banding and it was a BREEZE! The only change I made was to the board over the blade, I made that double thick (1 1/2") to provide additional support to the piece running against the fence. This was one of the best tip/trick videos I've watched. Thank you so much!
great info. you're one of my fav woodworking CZcamsrs 😉
Great video, as always. convex curves though are it’s Achilles Heal. I started using an L fence only in the last year and love it. It’s even replaced my tapering jig. I prefer it over the router…when possible. I go to the router only when curves are involved.
Another very helpful video... also short and to the point. Sorry it took me so long, but I have just become a Patreon supporter. I very much appreciate your 'flavor' of help/guidance for all of us out here.
Over the last couple of years you have become one of my "must watch" posters. Everything is clean, clear, simple and on point. I'm not going to say that I use every tip but I have used several and they are all interesting. And who knows when I might need to use one of the others. Thanks for what you do.
The saw is quicker too. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I can see the L fence being used in a lot of applications, thanks for the idea, it's the next jig I'm going to make!
All extremely good points for us all to use. I was taught that the router was really a finishing tool and not one to be used to remove large amounts of material - the rule of thumb was to remove much less than 50% than the width of the router bit spindle (I.e if you are using 1/4” spindle bits, remove less than 1/8” at a pass). However, even that rule needs to be modified by taking into account the timber being cut. A softwood? Then I follow that 50% rule. A hardwood like oak? Then I go much less.
Like most other woodworkers I guess, I use the table saw to get near my finished line if I’m after straight cuts - and a bandsaw to get near the finished line on curved pieces.
I should also add that, where you can, use the thickest spindle bits you can. I much prefer 1/2” spindle bits over 1/4” or 5/16” bits although sometimes, I don’t have a choice. The 1/2” or 12mm spindle bits are much less prone to breakage plus they vibrate less leading to cleaner cuts. I buy only high quality bits. That means, for me, I stick with brands that I know and trust (in the UK, that means CMT, Titman and Wealden Tools; I’ m not saying that there aren’t others, but I stick with those). Buy cheap; buy twice could have been invented for router bits.
Thanks for answering my question! Makes total sense.
I love the explanations you give. It's one thing to know how, it's quite another to know why.
I play guitar and I've learned a lot from watching YT videos (I might be a lot better if YT was around in the '70's). It really helped when I learned to play bass 5 years ago. The point is, I learned how to play something but I found some channels that taught the "why" of playing something and that allowed me to learn so many songs without watching a video. I just needed to know what key a song was in and I could figure out the rest.
When you explain why one tool is better than another for this job or that job, you give us the knowledge to make the proper decisions on our own later on. That is way more valuable than just showing us how.
I fully admit, I was having trouble figuring out why the L fence was so popular with some of the folks online, and using it with a template really brought it home for me. Thanks!
Wow, those shelves are gorgeous! Awesome idea!
Fantastic tips, dude! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Really like the way you do your videos now short to the point and very informative. Keep up the great work.
Good lesson. I was happy to see the QEP grout float pad for push support at router table. I use grout floats as well. Cheaper and I think they hold better
I don't remember seeing the L fence used in CZcams videos. I read about it in one of the Woodworking magazines decades ago. I used it to cut parts for some Peterson Oval bluebird houses. The one I set up in my backyard went unused by bluebirds for years, but this year a pair of bluebirds have built a nest in it.
Thanks, this is my next jig for my table saw.
Great follow-up and more great info, Jodee. You're making them faster than I can comment!! Great job, man.
Nicely done & thanks for pointing that out! Really glad that I subscribed to your channel! 👍👍
The last video left me asking the same question but like what you found and exposed, the amount taken off at one time along with defects would have made it a risky move. Glad you cleared this up for me. Reassuring to know I'm learning to think about all aspects before making mistakes. Well done on the follow up and thanks again. Keep 'em coming because your content and delivery just keeps getting better with each one.
Always great and clever information, thanks
Thanks for some very good points I never knew.
Great video, as always.
I watched both of these vids with interest, never heard of an "L" fence. You can learn something new everyday so I'm going to make one most riki tik. Also regarding router table tearout, for me even taking small bites there's always the chance its gonna happen. I finally spent the money and bought a 1/2" shank 1 1/2" cut depth compression bit from Bits and Bits. If you do a lot of pattern work on a router table this bit is golden.
Excellent application of that L- Fence versus routing table. Also, it occurred to me that if anybody wants to position their template to capture a certain wood figure or just avoid imperfections like gouges or pitch pockets, then this desire will automatically cause a wonky waste perimeter that needs to be removed whereby some cutoffs are small but others much larger. NOW that L-Fence method really shines!!
Thanks Jodie.
great examples!
Excellent! Top quality, love it.
Bob
England
Good video. Thanks
I have to make a center lazy Susan from
Walnut. Trying to figure out jig for tablesaw or using a downcut spiral bit on a router using a piece of wood to connect to a screw to go around and cut. Hmmmm
my table saw fence is a bit out.. it flares away from the blade at least a 16th of an inch at the end of the fence plus it leans away from the blade ( i dont think i can do anything about that).. will this jig still work for me? .. really enjoy your videos
You are genius
What sort of double sided tape do you use. I am looking for something that works better than my current tape.
hey bro! FIRST!
Does using the L fence also mean that you can make a larger copy of the pattern?
I would cut it a 16th over, then sand it to the line
Great work, but don't be talking about no climb cut in that application, please, enough folks may try it and some will be sorry.
Three letters.... C - N - C.
Not everyone had the budget for a good one, the room to have one, or wants to be bothered learning the computer skills necessary to programme one. I'm all of those. This fence on the table saw is, for me, a much better approach. Your mileage may vary.