The One Simple Table Saw Hack You've Probably Never Heard Of
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- čas přidán 13. 01. 2022
- This is one of my favorite hacks for crosscutting on the table saw without busting out the sled.
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Updated video can be found here, discussing why I didn't use magnets, for those interested. (czcams.com/video/SAdSthrUq30/video.html)
I like using a Mag-Switch too. Basicly same idea as yours. Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2022 and stay safe.
Don’t need any of this. My unifence is completely adjustable length wise. I just loosen it up, pull it back behind the saw. Tighten and start cutting.
The Mag-Switch is a neat tweak. 👌
Great tip! I also like the unintended tip about using your double sided tape. Leaving the trailing edge makes it so much easier than having to find and peel each time to expose the sticky side. Don’t know why it never occurred to me before. Thanks for both tips!
Me too, I paused when he did that and had a shocked look on my face
Same here. Simple, but .... I didn't think of it.
Here’s a little tip for those who have the same Bessey clamps as you are using. I was having trouble getting a grip on mine due to the small diameter and slick surface. I found that 7/8” ID dishwasher drain hose fits very snugly over the handle. I cut pieces just a bit over length, lubricated the inside and pressed them in place. I trimmed the excess a day or so later after the rubber decompressed.
Another quick easy and inexpensive idea. And adds a level of safety. Thanks for sharing
Very pleased to see you are back making videos. Thank You!
This perfectly highlights the difference between intellectual people and smart people. Not intended as an insult to either type, but they're not the same.
I prefer to just clamp a 1” piece on to the back of the fence. Haven’t had any issue with pieces flying back. The tape is a cool idea but I’m not crazy about the time it takes and the idea of getting sticky stuff on my table top. Plus it could move slightly if you smack a piece into it.
I hear ya. I think it just depends on each person's individual work habits too. I have this tape everywhere in the shop, so it ends up being quicker than most options. Plus I don't have to remember to deduct the inch. I picked it up from working production plastic fab and it worked so well, I just sort of kept it for the wood shop.
I agree. I have a Delta Unisaw that actually came with a factory made block that has it's own clamp built in. It's great!
🤔 whats wrong with using the mitre saw?
@@brucemiller1696 a mitre saw isn't going to do what he's doing here, at least not cleanly, and you'd still have the same problem fitting the dado.
@@sethwatson8952 not sure what you are talking about with the dado thing. Dont remember seeing anything about that. However, the better way to do cuts like this is with a backup fence. Like a mitre saw with a zero clearance fence or a table saw sled or even if he had a longer fence on what he is using. The reason being is when the piece starts to fall away before it is cut all the way through is it may not cut cleanly or chip the back corner out. His trick is cool but there is better. PS, have doing woodworking since 1984. Seen a lot, been taught a lot, studied a lot, worked at more than a dozen cabinet shops and now self employed for the last 7 years. So, i think i have earned enough worth to put my 2 cents in.
Man, great fix to a common problem.... Look at Jodee pumping out the new videos!! Great tip, man. Thanks!
I just cut over 200 small pieces using your method with double sided tape worked great only change tape twice
Yes, I know this problem. I once had a near miss situation with the „clamp-a-piece-of-wood-to-the-fence-method“ so I wanted to have a better way of cutting such pieces. More or less, my solution is the same as yours. Only in my solution, the piece of wood that acts as fence replacement is 10 cm wide so I can still use the fence to put it in place (subtracting 10 cm is still math that I can handle without a calculator 🤪) and it is held in place with a switchable magnet. Also is has a little chamfer on the lower edge on the side of the workpiece so dust and small debris don‘t get in the way.
I love the double sided tape of yours. A pity we can‘t get this type of tape around here. What we get here is not torn off so easy.
Greetings from Switzerland 🇨🇭
Eliminate the fence, forget the blocks and jigs. Scribe a reference line on the table top and or the blade guard that indicates the cut line of the blade’s exact cut line. A knife line or a sharp pencil mark on your workpiece is placed at the previous scribed line. Works for me.🇨🇦👍👨🦳
I love the fact that you don’t have any intro or stupid music playing in the background on this video.
I don’t know about your other videos but I really like this one.
Also your tricks are very welcome. Thank you very much.
Thanks Jodee and welcome back! The tape trick @2:46 is still such a great idea. FYI Jodee had a dedicated video on the topic of doublesided tape. The one he recommended in that video works like a charm! And I'll definitely do this with the newer mag/feather pro stops. Durable enough it'll stay put. Thanks for another great tip.
I like this!!! Thank you
Handy dandy. I knew there was a reason why I subscribe to this channel, other than my love of wood.... Hah! Keep up the good work.
Great idea 💡 👍
Thanks for sharing your technique. I typically used the miter saw in the past but it presents the same issue with kicking the pieces back. The miter was not always great with small parts either.
WOW! Great idea! I'm definitely going to do my cuts this way from now on. Thanks for sharing!
One of the BEST sites on CZcams
Such an incredibly good idea! Thank you.
That's a cool idea. In the end, though, I really lean toward the idea of taking the time up front to build a cross-cut sled with a stop-block riding on a track with measuring tape.
Nice tip, a mag switch can be used instead of the oak block if people have one already like me.
True! Although I find that they slide around too much. At least the older ones that I have do. The new style on the feather board stays put really nice.
Sadly, mag switches do not work on aluminum; however tape does.
Nice clear, concise explanation. Much appreciated.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Frkn genius!
Maaaan, you've made my day!
The block stop is cool, but the way you applied the double sided tape - right after I post this comment I am going to practice that. Genius!
Yeah, Jodee had a video on that. Get the paper one that rips easily, just google for his video. No more trying to pry off the corner and fighting with it. Game changer!
@@hansangb found it, for other commenters it's this one czcams.com/video/IPor0NC_I34/video.html
Really cool stuff!
That’s brilliant! Thanks for sharing!
Simple and yet very effective! Thank you. 👍
Simple but effective dig your tips. Thanks for sharing
Love this idea! Thank you
You are amazing. Easy, logical, low tech. Thanks again!
To the funny carpenter. get two stick tape from Golfworks. It's strong and leaves no residue.
This is a great video, not sure if you have a "magswitch" or not, but this video just inspired me to take a block of wood and use a mag switch in lieu of the double sided tape. The screw idea is also great for making those fine adjustments. Always love your videos, so many great and practical ideas!
Thank you. I just uploaded a video discussing this exact thing, if you're interested! czcams.com/video/SAdSthrUq30/video.html
So simple, yet so effective 🙂
Thank you for sharing
Another excellent video! Thanks!
Great, simple tip! Keep the videos coming
Nice little trick! Thanks!
Great idea 👍
Great tip Jody!
Very cool hack! Thanks!
Great tip!
what really mind blow me is that the way you use double sided tape 🤣 which is great btw
I mean I usually tear the length that I need and then peel the backing off. BUT THIS, applying the adhesive but WITHOUT tearing is really new to me, thanks man! 😊👍
Neat idea! Thank-you.
Brilliant.
Great tip, thanks.
Very nice. I'll give this a try.
Pure genius! I have used a 2” hardwood block clamped to the fence for years but as you point out, depending on the width of the off-cut, kickback can (and has) happened. Now I can crosscut small to not so small safely. The magnet is a stellar upgrade, I see a bunch of them in the future. Thanks for sharing!
Just use a bigger block
Nice tip, thanks
I have a Delta unifence. It comes with a stubby fence, that sets back from the blade. It works on the same principle as your way. Thank you.
That is amazing!
Sweet trick!!
I use a sacrificial board on the sled that almost touches the fence to the length I need. That way the piece i'm cutting is held on both sides and it has less tear out. I've never had a kickback.
I love your tips. I think you're a bit like me, overly obsessed in trying to find the most efficient way of doing things. I still can't get to grip with your way of using double sided tape though. You make it look so easy. The stuff I can find here in the UK doesn't seem to tear as easily as yours :(
Brilliant!
Great tip~!! Thanks~!
Great info! I am going to try and use my mag-swtch in a board instead of a piece of wood. My problem in the past was to make adjustments and your explanation will help me make quicker set-ups. Thanks
I just uploaded a video discussing this exact thing, if you're interested! czcams.com/video/SAdSthrUq30/video.html
Excellent 👍
“What some people do” is perfectly fine. The auxiliary fence is the way to go.
Just what I need👍
Great tip. Safest method that I have seen.
Simple, yet, very handy tricky! Very nice. Just got my first ever table saw and made a cut using the fence and miter jig. I cut a piece for testing that was around 2 inches. It was indeed bouncing back and forth between the blade and the fence. Luck I had those blade guards (with acrilic top and etc..)
so wonderfully simple
I normally do the 4" L-block but I'm going to try your idea. Looks brilliant!
And go figure.. Mine is 4" too. And I thought I was being clever when I made that.
@@scottroy6195 I use to use just random sizes from scraps but I got the 4" from a Stump Nubs video a couple years ago. Now that 4" L-block is always beside the saw ready to go when needed.
BRILLIANT! 😁
I like this idea, id also add a screw at the back for making 2 cuts with the same setup. Thanks for sharing
Good stuff. I would say get a larger strong magnet (whatever the use for featherboards) and stick that in their to replace the tape.
I have used the stop block clampled to the fence method for 30 years and have never had a piece of offcut thrown back at me, The piece cut off always moves away from the blade. I think the 'L" shaped peice clamped to the fence is better than the double sided tape idea. but as always there is more than one way to skin a cat.
I agree, but I like the micro adjust screw. It could be use with the L block too. The tail on the double sided tape is genus.
I find using the second example with a larger L block much faster than your tip but that's just me. Good video, straight to the point without a lot of b.s.
Cool hack!
You're probably one of the greatest geniuses of the Universe. You solved a problem that myriad of people already solved before you, but others haven't got that Godly spark with the double sided tape. What on Earth would mankind do without you? Words can never describe how much we owe you. May I humbly call you - from now on - Jesus?
Perfect using a magnetic clamp!
Muito bom, obrigado! Abraço (Robertson- Brasil).
Simple, effective.
Thanks, no thanks. I started woodworking when I was 7 or 8, started school shop class in the 4th grade. I'm 81 now. I opt for a saw sled. Faster to set up, and guaranteed accurate every time, as long as it was made accurate. I also use a foot switch - stand on it, turns the saw on. Problem occurs, first instinct is to move back, this makes me step off the switch, saw is turned off, no looking for an off switch to turn it off. I tried double stick tape, once. Too much time and trouble to clean up the wood, same with rubber cement. A tip that seems like most of the modern 'experts' don't know - never stand in line with the saw blade - if there is a kick back it will hit you right in the gut, stand to the side and any kickback will pass by you. And I have never yet had a kickback, learned about avoiding them from my 10th grade shop instructor, the first year we were allowed to use power tools.
Cool idea with the double sided tape. Another idea is what I use. Similar to the first part of your vid. I have a piece of wood with four rare earth magnets recessed into the bottom corners. It's exactly 3" wide. I set it against the fence (having added 3" to my measurement) and the magnets keep it in place after registering the cutoff against it. I find 3" away from the fence is enough clearance for me personally. The magnets allow it to stick on the side of the tablesaw when not in use. I do like the idea of the small adjustment screw to the side. Maybe a bolt with a specific thread per inch would be even better. Something so, say 1/4 turn would be .002" or something along those lines. Have to think about that one.
Nice idea about the micro-adjustment screw - please let me know if you come up with something.
If you use a 1/4 20 bolt and threaded insert, you could use a hex head that would give you .025 per 1/3 turn. Would require i recessed hole and socket but should work.
@@adamjamesboyts8877 Thanks!
I like the idea; I'll try it. This also makes me think that maybe one of my switchable magnet featherboards could serve in the same way; they are super strong. Thanks.
I just talked about that in a video that I just uploaded, if you're interested. Might give you some ideas. czcams.com/video/SAdSthrUq30/video.html
Thanks
Great idea, but too much hassle for me for just a couple of cuts, plus i wax my table so tape probably wont stick too well. I prefer the L block idea, with the flat part made longer for more clearance from the fence, and made so it can fit snug over the width of the fence, so no need for a clamp, which usually gets in the way. Screw for micro adjust is a great idea.
I actually just waxed my table a couple of days before making this video. Tape holds great but comes off easy.
Good idea, but I have a couple more easy ways... if you have a Magswitch you can use it to set the location, or if you have a featherboard, set it into the right miter track with its non-feather side facing the blade side and use it to set the distance.
I just uploaded a video discussing this exact thing, if you're interested! czcams.com/video/SAdSthrUq30/video.html
I was at first like "What's wrong with the first way?" and after seeing what you did I now completely see what was wrong with the first way. 🤣🤣
Really, really interesting, dude! 😃
That's brilliant! Thanks!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very cool. Thanks. I use my magnetic feather board to do this. I love you idea though.
Always with a great idea. Certainly beats the $200 magnet based solutions.
Thanx
I use a dedicated clamp over the fence with a sized piece of wood. I sized it to one inch, been working for years. Two cuts I make a lot are 11 1/4 and 11 3/16, the screw makes set up faster. It has to be dead accurate.
I think I'll try the L block. I can imagine the double sided tape method is pretty quick but I get super annoyed dealing with adhesives most of the time and in a cold shop like mine in the winter, a lot of tapes don't seem to work too well
You can get a switchable magnet for this instead of tape
Fucking.......brilliant. I absolutely love simple, elegant solutions like this. Thank you!
That's a great idea, I bet replacing the tape with a magswitch magnet would make it even easier to use.
I think that's a great idea.
For a lot of cuts like those, just use a miter saw
Clever!
Good one can use that
Great tip mate. It would be even more perfect if it was made with a switchable magnet. Time to whizz down to the toolshop methinks
Got my crosscut sled for that stuff.
From a guy that has taken to many chances and still has all his fingers thanks
Impressive! Clear and easy to do! Was wondering if putting 4ea magnet at the bottom of the block will work as good? In that way you don’t need double sided tape. Of course the magnets need to fit into the borehole and fixed with epoxy.
Agreed! You could even use a magswitch in a block. I don't like putting tape on my table saw surface
I just uploaded a video discussing this exact thing, if you're interested! czcams.com/video/SAdSthrUq30/video.html
Simple but useful, and a whole lot safer. What's not to like? BTW, looking at your clamp handle made me think of Rob Cosman's hockey tape trick.
Great video. Do you get a problem with tacky residue when you remove it?
Almost never! Usually it sticks well and comes off when I need it to. If you leave it on for a long time it can start to be a pain though.
Thanks for the video. I very much appreciate the quality of your narration; it is very calming unlike some (most?) narrators who seem to tire me out just listening to them.
I’ve only been a (serious) amateur woodworker for 45 years or more and I had never thought of that. I use the auxiliary fence cramped to the main fence method - although I ensure the gap between the cutting piece and the main fence is proportionate to the length and width that I am cutting ( the bigger the cutting piece, the wider the gap to the main fence).
A couple of things. I am OCD about having a clean table surface - I won’t be putting double sided tape on it. I have a couple of very powerful switch magnets (not magswitches as I can buy more powerful magnets for much less) and they will be ideal. Also, I don’t trust my measure on the table saw; every time I switch blades (rip to cross-cutting to flat top tooth to wide blades), that measure is out; so, I’m afraid I’m old fashioned in that I cut a piece and measure it; it just gives me more confidence that the measurement is correct.
I am all for efficiency (used to work with six sigma) but I feel much better double checking everything. It takes some time, which doesn’t matter to me much now, but I carry on without that gnawing feeling of “is that square” or “has that double sided tape moved a little”
You talked about one type of kickback which is very sensible. I can’t see from your video doesn’t show whether you use a riving knife or not. To me, from what I have experienced, a riving knife is one of the top safety features you must use on a table saw; it’s up there with push sticks and short fences. I don’t think it’s quite a critical if you are cutting man made boards but it’s essential if you are cutting “proper” timber.
The knife that came with the machine had an overhead dust collector attached to it. So, you couldn’t do dados or rebates. I discarded that dust collection system, making one first that came across the machine from one side - but that got in the way with cutting long pieces; in my new workshop (new house) I’m making one that hangs from the ceiling and is reasonably retractable. I have now cut my riving knife down so that it is the same exact height as my blade; and when I change blades, I made dedicated riving knives for each blade width and diameter.