Throw Out Your Thin-Rip Jig. Do THIS Instead.
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- čas přidán 19. 11. 2022
- This is the most inexpensive, consistent and foolproof way to mill small pieces on the table saw that I've found to date.
TOOLS I MENTIONED:
FastCap Zero Clearance Tape - amzn.to/3TRko5o
GRRR-Ripper Push Block (w/1/8" leg) - amzn.to/3gg6VGF
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I’m a traditionally trained cabinetmaker. I worked in the trade building furniture for almost 40 years. Retired now but still design and build in my own shop. I agree with everything you said and demonstrated in this video. A perfect example of design and developing a workable process out of necessity, with materials on hand. We’ll done.
Great comment, thanks for posting !
And praise well said!
Thanks. I was considering a ripping jig on a tight budget. Now you’ve shown me the more efficient way.
😢😢
This dude and Paul Sellers... Kings of no-nonsense woodworking content.
Great solution! Love your attitude... "If you're not comfortable , don't do it. But don't tell me I can't". "If you're worried about a little sand paper on your saw blade". Love it!!!
Couldn’t agree more
Pretty much the same as I use for cutting thin strips in my own shop. Once you've done it the first time, you can use the kerf you cut to set up your saw the next time: just slip the kerf over the blade, and bring the fence up to meet it. If you use a thicker piece for your jig (mine is a piece of 2x6) you can put different kerfs in each of the four edges, set for ripping different thicknesses of strips. Best of all, it's so easy to make that if it gets damaged (the thinnest one tends to get broken off bumping around my shop) it takes almost no time to make another.
This is the first time I've watched you -- great video, very informative. Although the overwhelming impression I get is that you do constant battle with the comments section. I used to get the same sort of feedback from customers and I'd think to myself "Just because you don't know what I'm doing doesn't mean I don't know what I'm doing."
Keep up the good work, man.
"Just because you don't know what I'm doing doesn't mean I don't know what I'm doing."
That is a great line.
Loved your video and I agree with all of the previous comments. Great job! I’m a first time viewer and will look forward to more!
Great idea, what if you want to do long prices. Ex 4 ft
Also first time watching watching. And I got the same thing from this video lol
7:20 for those of you who want to skip ahead passing by the dry preamble. It’s basically repeated multiple times and doesn’t actually show the first cut til 7 mins in.
Sure like your “no BS” way of shutting up the critics. Really appreciate learning your way of rippin narrow strips. The tape dea over the blade is one of those “why didn’t I think of that” ideas. You do a great job of sharing and demonstrating you concept, thank you very much. From Missouri
This is awesome, and so timely. I'm in the middle of a project that requires a bazillion 1/8" strips and I've been using the "move the fence" method which is slow, annoying & imprecise.
Thanks for sharing this and randomly coming up in my feed at just the right moment, lol!
I make zero clearance inserts out of quality half ince plywood they are made for dadoes and everything
Good vid. And there is a common use for 1/32” strips… binding and purfling on musical instruments.
Now this is interesting. I make a product that requires a ton of 3/16 x 3/16 strips, and I have never been thrilled with my current method. This could be a game changer.
Very cool idea. Cheers.
Love that you are pre-shutting down all the haters in the comments. Your videos are always top notch and you come up with tons of simple solutions that we’ve all run into and had trouble figuring out a work around. Don’t let the few haters get to you.
I'm New to the channel and my Favorite part was "You do You"! LOL
the "I don't know what to tell you" was hilarious too hehe
I'm not sure I would consider people who are our concerned about other people's safety ''Haters''
@@billsk8 False concern . It is more about being a control freak . Damn Safety Sally !
Haters, control freaks? At times I wonder about the mentality of some posters.
I watched a lot of woodworking videos and I’m always amazed that you always have a tip that I’ve never heard before. I appreciate what you do.
I don't subscribe as much as I should but I did to you. Not looking for cookies but high fives are pretty cool but I don't really do those anymore since covid happened so makes me wonder, did any dinosaurs hibernate? Can I buy an elephant and if so am I aloud to eat it. I'm a huge fan of green tape. Not frog tape but scotch green tape. It's blue tape but stronger. Seems to come off easier
This is the first time I am seeing you and I am impressed with you as a woodworker. The zero clearance tip with the blue tape (and / or Fastcap tape), is worth the price of admission. I do a lot of delicate work in wood, and often have to find creative ways to cut small components with my tools. Last week I needed seven hundred 3/16" strips of wood, and used a similar method with a dedicated zero clearance cover, instead of the tape. The thing I did differently was to use a "micro kerf" blade, which is 1/16" thick. Having such a small kerf allows me to get a higher yield of material.
I look forward to watching more of your CZcams channel. Thank you again for your valued instruction!
Thanks, I make boxes (and I always "decorate with splines") I made a jig for the tsaw to cut splines. Your method is much more productive and accurate, thanks again.
I'm a newbie woodworker learning how to make small gift boxes using a Dewalt jobsite saw. I need thin strips for miter keys. I just tried this and it worked great! Thanks for all your videos, they have really helped me.
I bought some of that zero clearance tape 2 years ago and It’s seriously the BEST! I have it in my miter saw. I also just bought a thin strip jig from Amazon that I’ll PROBABLY be sending back now. Awesome information man! I always enjoy your content.
Sometimes as a woodworker I tend to overthink solutions to a problem. This is as simple as it gets to solve one of those problems. The K.I.S.S. method. I like it. Thanks for simplifying a small dilemma in my workshop.
Thanks for sharing your genius. It has helped me immensely with with resolving odd furniture repair conundrums. Consistent repeatable thin strips are a huge plus since most of the store bought items I repair are MDF wrapped in veneers. Or plywood wrapped in edge banding. Also glad to know I am not the only one obsessing over perfection. Keep doing what you do.
Top tutorial! I've got one of those thin strip jigs that I made a couple of years ago. It works just fine for what I do. Your super simple alternative with a 'dod' of mdf and some sandpaper looks like the perfect solution to making repeatable thin strips on even a basic site, aka, jobsite table saw. Thanks for sharing!
I just found your channel. I started my own cabinet making and furniture business last year. I'm always looking for good ways to do things. I've seen a few of your videos now and I have appreciated them all. Your videos have been thoughtful, clear, straightforward, practical, inventive...I'm running out of complimentary adjectives here. You're good and I appreciate you. Thanks! Enough said. ;)
Been using this method for thin rips for a very long time. I use a pushblock that has a notch cut into it to push the cut material forward not relying just on the sandpaper(which I don't use).
even better! thank you!
I use this method for thin rip for bent wood glue up and it works very well. The sand paper is a great idea. You can buy rolls of peel and stick sand paper intended for stair treads for this purpose. Great video!
Wish I had seen this before I bought a thin rip jig. Thanks for posting.
My thoughts exactly, but I think the thin rip jig still might be better if you are cutting strips out of a long piece of stock when you are after long strips and the thickness does not have to be exactly the same.
Built a dedicated push stick with the sandpaper just like you showed and what a game changer. Cut 1/8” 24” long for 100 pieces without a hiccup. When I tried to do a dozen or so with a standard lip the strips would get hung up and couple came back at me. I’m sticking to your idea. Thanks a million for this!
What happens at 13:25 is one reason to use another method, the pieces getting shot out between the blade and fence is another. My preferred method is #2, but instead of a hook at the back of the guide block, I use spec tape on it, and a piece of acrylic, corian, or dibond on the saw table to get "zero clearance". This allows cuts down to .020" with ease, which is nice for cutting veneer or edgeband from whatever species of wood you are working with, yes you do need to precut your materrial down to about 1/16" or so before and there is some waste but as long as your blade is square you can produce strips up to about 2" wide, 1-5/8" being perfect for 2x edgebanding.
The possibility of kickback and the pieces being shot at the operator is the reason for this approach; the sandpaper is there to bite into the piece and keep it from wobbling into the blade.
One thing these tiny strips are used for is the patterned ring around the sound hole of a classical guitar. They carefully assemble them into a bundle of repeating color sequences. They glue it, then take a slice of the bundle. Now you have like 50 of them all the same. Depends how long the strips are.
This is a very good idea, but I'd like to suggest an improvement. You can attach your home-made push block to the right side of the gripper and accomplish the same results, with the added safety of using the gripper handle instead of just using the home-made push block.
love it
I think his idea of the push block over the thin strip is that it pushes the strip on past the blade after it has cut. But I see your point and I would have done the same had I not seen his demo.
@@JohnnyUmphress As I read his comment, he would still use the home made push block, he would just attach it to the side of the grr-ripper so that he could use the handle.
@@brianwilson4134 You are probably right. I may have misunderstood the detail of his comment. I probably had a senior-moment there.
@Louis Trasser I was going to try that originally, but the handle of the GRRR-Ripper has such a high center of gravity that it can cause the material to slightly move left and right of the fence by pushing and pulling the top, which delivers inconsistent results. After doing it the way I showed, it occurred to me that there is no safety issue because the blade is buried in the material. It would be interesting to see how well it works like that though.
Love it. I'm a HO train fan and like to build some of my own buildings, etc. Small thin wood strips come in real handy. So yes having small square strips are needed. I've subscribed.
Agreed.
I use a lot of 1/8” strips when I make oriental lamps. Just tried your method and I’m really pleased with the results. Thank you 👍
Made a lot on N guage houses for model railroad layouts. Thin tiny strips are stuff I use to have to buy at really expensive prices. That's why this video caught my eye.
Outstanding!!! I find myself saving a lot of your videos to my woodworking folder so that I can quickly reference your tips when I find I need to do something that I haven't attempted before, or I need to learn something new. Thanks for sharing.
These people who reckon the sandpaper will kill the saw blade, are they the same people that cut aluminium (yes I'm British) on the machine? Also great to see you do not have the "nanny state" mentality about safety but you risk assess and explain why with veiled sarcasm! I really enjoy your demonstrations - keep them coming.
Aluminum is much softer than the aluminum oxide found in sandpaper, but since you are not really cutting through it and only plowing out what is in the blades tooth's path (sending id downward) I agree and see no real harm for occasional occurrences.
Outstanding video and build! Love the attention to detail that you include, very professional all around. Great design and wonderful craftsmanship! Love your videos and skill set, keep them coming and thank you for posting!
Appreciate the thought, logic and explanations that go into your problem solving and solutions. I work with a homemade mini table saw and look forward to trying (and using) this method. Thanks for sharing!
You just completely made my day. I am a beginner woodworker and am making things like noodleboards and wood strip art and was having a heck of a time making the thin pieces I wanted. Cutting off thing strips initially off a big board is no biggie, but once you get down to that last inch or so, yeah... dicey and I like my fingers. This is a great and easy solution and I'm going to try it! Thanks so much!
The only thing wrong with this channel is that it's not metric. 🙂 Great channel, great content, and no yelling at the camera.
You Sir are an experienced academic who is able to preempt the negative commentary of the NANCYS who want to bash your brilliant and gracious instruction. Thank you for delivering such precise instruction for executing this otherwise impossible task!
So glad I found your channel, I like your style, you definitely know what you are doing. We appreciate your time in making these videos. Excellent information 👍 Thanks!
You mention you have no idea who would want 1/16 x 1/16 strips...... I know one guy. I am 78, and rediscovered building stick model airplanes from my childhood. You may have never heard of that, but we bought kits and all the structures used tiny strips of 1/16 square balsa wood. The companies are mostly out of business now, but I have discovered that all
the old plans are online. Now I download a set of plans, blow them up to whatever scale I want, and build them using only scrap woods from my workshop. The models are heavy and will not fly, but display well. I have actually been using table saw and band saw to try to cut these strips with varied success. Looking forward to trying this method. By the way, old timers, this is a great way to relive the old days with little expense, using only scrap woods (including mahogany in my case). I give the models to grandkids or neighbor kids.
honestly, this is really an excellent video. Your practical approach is great. Blue tape...who'd a thunk. The sandpaper, a stroke of genius. Great video Pal, please keep it up.
I love your videos. Especially this type where you come up with such a simple solution for every day annoyances. Keep up the good work.
Fantastic dude. Love your simple solutions for "challenges" that have me scratching my head for hours and days!
I started using double stick tape after one of your videos, it’s a regular go to for me now, for example slotting pvc pipe by sticking the pipe into a v block. In the past, I’ve used packing tape to get zero clearance, it’s ok but gets gooey. I plan to pickup some of that zero clearance tape and try it out. Great tip for cutting thin strips!!
Great to see you explain this and how it's a great way. I stumbled upon this method recently. I don't quite have the smoothest flat wide side on my push block but it works pretty well. I will have to upgrade my push block lol love the sandpaper on it...relieves my anxiety about whether I am pushing down hard enough on the work piece lol
I just used this technique, and it worked flawlessly. I only had the cajones to do 1/8th, but the strips came out perfect.
Thank you, I've learned a lot from you.
Brilliant. Exactly what I needed to know for cutting those thin strips for miniature canvas frames. Thank you.
Great woodworking. Very simple, easy, repeatable solution for a taxing problem. No fancy jigs or tools required. Well done and thank you!
Oh, yeah. And I love your comments like "don't tell me what I can't do", etc. Everyone's got their own comfort level, it's a free country, and all that. 😀
I like your down-to-earth approach, very refreshing and no bullshit.
Just a thought... after you set your fence, lay down a 1/4" piece of MDF (hard board) . Then raise the blade to the height you need. This will make the Zero Clearance "Table" Now run the wood over this new table top and it will keep the thin strips from falling into the saw. Rusty
He used the tape so he could make a slice for the riving knife to come up through. And to keep the method "low cost".
Also a good idea, thanks for the input.
crosscut sled jig with stop block is best way
@Len crainer, Actually the MDF strip just to the right of me in the video is what I used as a zero clearance to cut the 1/16 x 1/16 and 1/16 by 1/32 strips. Thanks for adding this!
Great tutorial, and great idea. It wouldn't take much time to add some geometry to the push block that would hook it onto the fence. I know I'd be worried about accidentally applying imperfect pressure and flipping the push block sideways.
Old can still learn new tricks. Thank you for showing us all that have been retired and want to learn some newer tricks.
Older men
Love it! You saved me! Been doing exactly that last night, thin strips. Couldn’t find a safe way to make it happen until I saw your video. Thank you!
I like these kind of demonstrations where there's a couple "Doh!" moments. Keeping it real.
I was going to make one of those thin-strip guides with the rollers that you demonstrated at the beginning but the moving fence part didn't sit well with me and ironically I was thinking what you would come up with for making thin strips.
Thanks for showing a better technique for making these.
Great idea. I suppose there is nothing ineffective about using a wider MDF (maybe 2 inches wide) with a more stable (and yes safer) handle, and creating a sort of mini-gripper with sandpaper.
I love 2 things about your videos, How you clearly explain your ingenious methods, and how you address the haters ahead of time. Keep up the good work.
I’ve used this method for years with one change. I screwed a miter track to my fence and have a carriage that lets me keep my hand over the fence while applying downward pressure to the piece being cut. A little safer and much easier for those of us with arthritis.
Clever. Those micro strips that you don’t know what people would do with them, I use them in model building.
Agreed; one of the better wood working channels. Thanks for all your great Ideas and practical tips - all the way from down in New Zealand!
After many other attempts, I used this to create 3/16 by 3/16 stock to turn into dowels for filling holes in a turning project. Saved me a great deal of frustration. Thanks.
I love this channel! ❤ Your videos are NEVER boring!
You do great work.
Been trying to figure this issue out with my old inherited table saw. This is the perfect solution for the less that perfect fence settings. Thanks
I think you raise some great points about potential imprecision introduced when you have to continually move your fence when using a thin-rip jig.
Question for everyone -- do you think it's better to use a block like this with sandpaper or to instead use a push block with a wood scrap at the back that's a hook? I use scrap off-cuts of 2x4s for push blocks, and I make hooks at the back simply by screwing another off-cut to the back of the 2x4. It doesn't matter if the blade nibbles into my push-block or the hook piece at the back of the block a tiny bit as I push my pieces through. Once in a while, I simply replace the hook piece at the back of my push block with another piece of scrap wood. If the push block gets chewed up, I have a pile of 2x4 scrap material from past projects.
I think either method works fine, but what would others prefer -- a board with sandpaper as a push block or a block of wood with a hook on the back + no sand paper?
I have not done either as of yet, but while watching this video I thought to myself I would add a hook like you commented on in addition to the sandpaper. Might be overdoing it, but it can not hurt to be over cautious.
What a great video. It's simple solutions that work well that make us smile. Thanks for showing us that we don't always need expensive jigs to produce things that we may not need often.
Thank you for using the riving knife. I see so many people on youtube not using guards or riving knives in their demos. Good to see someone using good techniques.
When a craftsman realizes that a pencil line can be cut into several different widths.
When you can achieve repetitive cuts . Within a few thousands. 002"
Then milling can be done without measuring or sanding.
This is good knowledge for someone who needs accuracy. Nicely done!
After slicing the tip of my thumb when cutting thin strips kicked up and moved the safety side board out of the way, I thought my thin strip days were over, but your sandpaper idea has solved the whole process. I can't be the only guy who nearly lost a part of his finger or hand. Thank you.
Very smart use of blue tape and that sandpaper pusher is one trick I'll use. . . Food for thought, set your fence to desired thickness then lower blade, CA or double stick some 6" wide or so stable flat stock to your table, bring running blade back up to appropriate height and start milling. I'm a fan of your vids they make me think . . .and that's a good thing
Very helpful. Been trying to rip 1/16 for ship model planks on my dang jobsaw. This looks like it will help. Brilliant.
I came across this video on 12/28/23 and you have just saved me a lot of time. I build doll houses and I cut a big bunch of thin strips to use as lap siding also i cut cedar strips to use as shingles for the roof. I probably cut tree to four hundred or more per house. I used to cut them just using the rip fence and that gets awful scary ay times. With your method I will feel a whole lot safer than before. After watching your video, the first thing I did was give it a big thumbs up and subscribed to your channel. Thanks again for all your help and keep up the good work. I look forward to watching a lot more of your videos here in central Missouri.
It's nice and refreshing to have someone show both the upside and any downside of an innovative idea rather than touting it as the greatest breakthrough since colour TV.
There's genius in Common Sense. A scrap piece of wood with sandpaper glued to two sides, i.e., one flat and one edge side, to push through the workpiece to get a 1/8" , or other narrow cut piece, without having the cut small piece fly back at you is very clever. I'm considered smart in some circles, but I had my share of stupid moments. I used the plastic push stick to push the small piece of wood through. Once the larger portion passed the blade it quickly moved forward and away from the plastic push stick. The large piece was wobbeling against the blade and I quickly pulled the plastic push stick back. However, the saw blade caught the tip of the push stick and whipped the flat handle piece against my forearm. As I reared backwards and falling, I hit the OFF switch. I laid on the floor in agony watching my arm swell up.
I have 60+ years experience in sheet metal shops (US Air Force) and wood working shops. I've had a few unsafe incidents in my time but trying to cut a simple "3/8" x 3/8" strip for a key to a table saw sled fixture got the best of me. Your simple solution is very clever and well done. Also using the tape to get zero clearance was excellent. It's Common Sense which is genius in itself. THANKS for your video. (My arm was okay the next day.)
"If you even tell me, I swear" 🤣🤣🤣 I love it!!! Thank you for all the tips you share. I really appreciate them.
As a model maker who uses my (small table saw) for cutting thin planks and strips for model ship building this is a far better and more reliable technique than I have been using. There must be many other model makers that use small thin strip wood that will find this demonstration helpful. Thankyou.
I love how you take the trolls to task.
Great videos. You are a concise and effective educator.
No BS, straight talk, logical solutions with good rational. I like it.
I’m 75yo and been doing carpentry for over 50 years. I’ve done lots of edge banding, typically 1/4”. What I’ve always done is first run the donor board through to get a 1/4” off cut. Then I take the off cut and place it between the donor board and the fence, allowing another 1/4” off cut without moving the fence. Repeat as many times as necessary to get as many 1/4” strips as needed. Simple. No jig needed.
Great technique, I will be sure to try it the first time I need thin strips! But what reall hooked me was the refreshing attitude towards woodworking.
I'm glad you found this way. I never want to move the fence once I get the size needed.
Very good ideas! I make models and use thin strips all the time. Thanks for sharing.
Very slick. Could have used that push block this afternoon! I need to cut up some 1/8 strips tomorrow so this is very timely!
Brilliant! You've just saved me a wee pile of cash. I will definitely use this method for sure, probably after I have hade my zero clearance insert though. I've read the other comments to this video and it's nice to see guys acknowledge that everything you have shown is perfectly fine and actually, the results speak for themselves. I think there was a line out of Star Trek or similar that went "Simple but effective captain!"
Thanks!!! I never knew about 0 clearance tape. And I have used sand paper for holding things fast before but never thought of this technique. Very cool and I will try them both. Thanks again
Great video. An awesome way to safely achieve thin/small/accurate pieces! Thanks.
Awesome tip. I like to do splines in my corners. This will be my new way! Thank you
I've often used the method you described previously for making exact blade-width splines, and I've always ended up with the far end of the spline tapered such that it was not useful (you just explained why). I would have to cut 2x the material I needed to get enough splines for the project. I think this method might be better, yes you would have to fiddle a bit on scraps to get the width perfect but once that is set, you can crank out lots of splines without as much waste.
After watching this the first time I had to make one and WOW so simple, effective and no more adjusting the fence for every single cut! So simple!!!!
Genius. As always, I love all the explanations / rationale. I need to cut really small strips for an upcoming project and i was wondering how I might accomplish it. Thanks!
That is a good set up. Still makes me nervous, but I could see doing this from the side of my saw on repeat and getting many many strips needed. It is the best I've seen and consistent.
WOW. AMAZE!
I can’t believe you put your han….actually I am very much impressed. Also with how smooth your table saw is. Beautiful. I use that fastcap tape stuff. I Love it. Well, i have plenty of use for thin rips, and I am so happy I found your channel. Thank you. Spot on old chap. Colour me damn impressed!
Instead of sandpaper, I pushed block through first, flipped the block on its side, and with same setting, 1/8, I trimmed the cut edge back to within 1/2 in of edge leavening a hook. Works perfect, great technique. Thanks.
Great stuff. Timing is also perfect, as I have been researching thin rip jigs (commercially available types) online. Your method is far more likely to yield very consistent strips.
I built the thin strip jig from I simply built it. Works perfectly, no issue with the thin strips wobbling against the blade and I believe it to be a safer way of doing them. You approach is a good one for someone that does not already have the jig ready made at hand.
Thank you. Simple and effective. Kumiko and stringing strips go woo hoooo!
To your point about sandpaper and blades... No commonly used sandpaper abrasive can even scratch carbide. Unless you use diamond sandpaper or high speed steel saw blades (to both situations, I only ask why in the world would you) it's pretty obvious you won't damage the blade since the teeth are the only thing touching the abrasive. They're dovetail shaped for a reason guys, it keeps the brazing from hitting the material you're cutting and wearing out.
I’ve been using table saws for almost 50 years and I,earned something today. Blue tape to make a quick zero clearance insert. Thankyou
Great video and good illustration of a practical solution. I've been doing this for years with only two differences. I make a push stick with more of a "handle" that is similarly sacrificed to make the perfect hold down. I have never done the blue tape trick, but could see that working on a small job if you don't have a zero clearance insert. Keep up the good work.
Glad I found your video, I've used the method you described at frame 2:27, the problem is when I make spars for R/C aircraft wings I need such a long board to use this method and it really is a pain in the a-s. I think using your technique other R/C aircraft builders are going to ask me to make spars.
Love the sandpaper on the block too, off to the shop to make a zero clearance plate.
Thank you for sharing.
Brilliant. I especially love the zero clearance idea.
Your solutions and techniques are mind blowing. It's like I should have known these all along as i face palm myself! Absolutely fantastic. ...and i love the preemptive shut down of the negative comments!
Thanks for sharing this woodworking tactic. I really appreciate it.
Well, I'm glad I watched that. I need 3mm X 3mm strips for a segmented wood turning jig and this looks like just the thing. Thanks, Stewart, south west Australia.