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Hi very informative description of the works, excellent, just wondering what software you use ??

Hi Jerry, forgot to ask - how air permeable is OSB 11 mm, which you mentioned in your earlier videos? I am planning on using high density mineral wool insulation (e.g. Rockwoll) for better sound insulation (planning to use the gardenroom as a woodworking workshop and I would like to keep my neighbours happy :) ) , over thermal performance offered by PIR. Will fixing of OSB over the outside of the studwork, provide a chance for the moisture (seasonal and from gradual drying of the timber) to escape through OSB and leave via the breather membrane? Thanks again.

Hi Jerry, I am really glad I found your channel. Lots of practical tips and very logically explained. I am in the process of building a small garden room (~9m^2) near Glasgow. I was wondering how do you go about supporting the 4 corners of the flooring (e.g. czcams.com/video/UO1IAv3snuY/video.htmlsi=8gqjWhF-C93twD-9&t=368)? Is it a good idea to offset the the perimeter joists by a bit (~20 mm) to allow for fixation of the chipboard, but still provide the support for the bottom plate of the wall (with the created opening to be filled with PIR insulation)? Thank you. Keep up the good work!

Very good detailed information👍🏻

Really helpful points. On the last point about cavity trays for walls adjacent to a monopitch extension, what about in traditional buildings/older properties where there is a solid masonry wall with no cavity? Are there any precautions to consider?

Highly informative, pleasantly presented. A quality channel.

True! But there is a lot of over spec going on!

In my experience Architects draw pictures!

Thank you

Brilliant video

Great stuff, you clearly know a hell of a lot about the subject. My question is how does this translate into building a house of more than one storey, or is your focus solely garden rooms and extensions??? I've heard shrinkage can be a real problem on two storeys. Also what about the moisture content of the timber, think we have all seen CLS arrive sopping wet to site! It would be good to hear your thoughts sometime on building an actual house in timber frame on site, thanks.

In England it is common practice to build walls off 'Egger Protect' flooring on garden rooms and also large cabins. Egger Protect is an expensive material so maybe is OK??? Just wondered what your opinion is on this, great video, it is a very good point you have raised about building off chipboard.

Am your biggest fan mate ! So happy to finally found someone who thinks for them self , dose most work by him self and wants top quality outcomes!

Another excellent presentation with useful hints and links. Thanks for sharing

Can you do a video on SIPs roof panels? planning a 5x5m residential timber granny annex that is under 1m away from boundary, so limited to 2.5m high and cold roof but only just found out about sips roof panels on this video and it seems like a great solution for insulation, simplicity and extra head room. Would you agree? Thanks!

Great video, I'm planning on a similar project! What's the software used for the 3d modelling?

Hi everyone, this is a tutorial on sketchup, and although there’s some basic building construction included, I’m short cutting some things for speed. For the correct way to build, when you’re building your model, check out these videos…. 9 Timber Frame and Joinery mistakes to avoid czcams.com/video/jiHygezMEhI/video.html

Amazing informative video!!

Wow, best video for foundations out there. Straight forward, clear and really good video work. Just one question before I start my foundation drawings, which looks like an almost exact copy of your project, just before you pour, at 11:19 you show the reinforcing rebar laying on top of the old foundation where it abuts the house. The level peg also looks above the old foundation. Am I right in thinking you poured to about 50mm above the old foundation level? Much appreciated videos.

Hi Jeremy, befor i start never wirked on construction site on laying floors fir modules. Recently bought small derelict cottage , walls all good its approx9.5 m x 4.5 m going to out extension on rear for kitchen and bathroom, i thought of doing goal post steel beam idea but think that would be overkill reason being the roof is asbestos corrugated once the specialist comes to remove it will use shingle sheets as if i use tiles rhe whole roof will need re engineering for extra strength, so as the walls are almost 2' thick i can put the onto the walls but will need 4"x2" wall head plate on top of beam so joists and rafters have some where to go . So the opening of the wall approx 4.5m then wall then mtr fir door to bathroom from existing building , then block and render , so after reading comments from others about having no bump in celing from steel beam , its impossible in my case as being single storey . I have yet to get in there and have a more accurate measure . Will be a flat roof , width of ext approx 3 mtrs . Thanks for videos Jeremy.

Thanks!

im going to have to build my own standard extension under permited rights , im going to do the 48hours submit so no need for plans, but the bit thats got me worried now is the installing a cavity tray in the existing wall above the new flat roof,cutting one in is a massive job

Good Evening Jeremy. I’ve recently subscribed. Within just a few days you have taught me an exponential amount. PLUS, this game changing trick with importing the floor plan. I teach construction in a secondary school and I hope to build my own extension soon, so please keep your videos coming. Thank you for you videos, knowledge, tips and efforts. Ash

Excellent presentation, thanks for sharing :)

This is great - thank you. I'm planning on building a garden gym / home office, on a sloping site, using steel screw-piles and timber floor frame, with timber framed building on top. Presuming if I build a retaining wall like this, I can build the timber floor frame (supported by screw piles) within the inside of retaining wall to end up with a floor level nearly the same as with the floor level outside i the garden?

Nice work!! I came here as I was looking for filling an old chase which had two 15mm copper pipes in it. The depth is 30-35mm and 60mm wide. Is Bonding Coat still OK in layers? The blocks are breeze blocks.

Expertly articulated...

My company build almost everything with Sip, its a really nice system. We also do traditional timber frame but its a lot of more work.

which 3d program you use for the virtual work?

@build-better-things I have to figure out how to replace an existing 35 to 40 year old timber retaining wall. My confusion is with the French drain. The wall I'm tackling is basically U shaped (8 feet then a 90 degree turn and it goes for 16 feet then 90 degrees again for about 9 feet. My trouble is that both sides of the U (8 foot and 9 foot parts) where the timbers end are buried on both sides into a small hill. Basically the wall juts out from the hill and acts as a sort of look out point, so I'm not sure where the drainage pipe for the French drain could drain? Any thoughts would be very welcomed.

Imacculate video. No idea why this hasn't got thousands of likes and comments.

Thanks a million, a great resource for one to have before starting out on this daunting journey!

Thanks!

@build-better-things do you need to PVA/water wash the chasing of where there is a cable thats been wired onto breezeblocks/dense block before using the bonding plaster? Thank you!

A huge help, I'd come to my own conclusions on similar lines, but confirmation bias drew me to find your video. Really excellent, looking forward to watching more of your content.

Hey thanks for this video very helpful. I have cut vent holes in my fascias now! But what about the walls? Do these need venting as well? I have a 100mm timber framing with pvc cladding on the outside so if i fill the voids with PIR there will be no circulation of air in the walls. Plan to heat it in winter so will be exfremes of temperatures on each side of the wall. The timber framing will be a weak point in the themal insulation with 100mm pir stuck into the gaps.

Simply excellent

Hi, thanks for the video. I want to build my own extension at back of my house. Wondered if you could help me please

Thanks

Great vid. How can i calculate u value of my wall, is there an online calculator or better yet a spreadsheet? Thanks

Seeing steel used in concrete like that, particularly where the ‘chairs’ effectively leave moisture channels into it. It makes me wonder how long it takes for rust to cause the steel to expand, damaging the surrounding concrete and reducing the steels structural contribution to the strength of the foundation.

Hi Jerry, your video link in the description does not work. it says it is private.

Hi Jerry. Great video. Your 12 mìn sketch up tutorial vid is down. It says the video is private. Thanks again

Can say as a mason in Canada many of these are absolutely correct. Some of the terminology is different for sure but the principles are the same. I’d venture that most bricklaying apprenticeships discuss the importance of weeping holes very early on in the course as they are fundamental. I’m also suprisef that anyone would argue about ventilating cavity walls, there HAS to be an air gap, it’s even in the name “CAVITY” wall. Only in very rare instances have I seen or heard of the cavity being filled and in those cases it is for a specific reason making it the exception and not the rule.

Big pro when you're skint at the end of your project... They do 4 years interest free credit upto 15k.

Great videos, thanks. However I would like to point out that your timber-framed wall example that reaches a u-value of 0.10w/m2K adds up to an overall wall thickness of 427mm, not 328mm as stated. A similar wall thickness to the SIPS example and no reason why it should be that different in thickness anyway.

I take your point about not adding another OSB on top of a warm roof insulation. My question is, can rubber roofs be safely bonded to foiled backed PIR insulation without risk of delamination?

2 days digging by hand & 30 minutes to fill it with concrete £1000 @ most

Re studs on boards this chap builds garden room stud walls on egger protect boards. Presume ok for a garden room with rubber roof? czcams.com/video/8rTpFzTUdFg/video.htmlsi=9aOx4L9FsaAPFnTU

Interesting that you have gone for a full foundation setup. I note from other videos that often other firms are having localised pads then spanning over from the existing foundation to the new pad arrangement with concrete lintels. I would be interested to hear your opinion of this method? Was there a reason why you did not do this?