Timber Frame House Solo build - You can do it!
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- čas přidán 29. 06. 2024
- Can I build this small house alone, with just a few tools? I’m starting with timber frame, showing you the tips and tricks I’ve learned over the years to speed me up.
Home made cutting jigs, “gauging” to select the right timbers, foolproof way to get the walls square and plumb without the need for levels nor lasers.
To download the materials spreadsheet for quantifying your timber materials, go here….
buildbetterthings.com/resources
If you want to get in contact with me, I offer half hour and hourly slots and you can ask me anything about your project…
buildbetterthings.com/one-to-...
Some links to other vids I’ve made to help you….
How to size your studs and timber frame…
Timber sizes for your home build, you don’t need a structural engineer
• Timber sizes for your ...
Best Saw for Timber Frame - Circular Saw or Chop saw…? Architect-Builder Tool Tips
• Best Saw for Timber Fr...
Check out my sketch up tutorial here
GARDEN ROOM Sketchup tutorial build in 12 minutes with Sizes, downloads, order materials from model
• GARDEN ROOM Sketchup t...
9 Timber Frame and Joinery mistakes to avoid
• 9 Timber Frame and Joi...
How to set up your floor frame to receive your timber wall panels
Timber frame “how-to” for self builders - start with floor joists
• Timber frame “how-to” ... - Jak na to + styl
Highly informative, pleasantly presented. A quality channel.
Thank you
Another excellent presentation with useful hints and links. Thanks for sharing
Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the great videos. How do you fix the walls to the foundations?
A few L shaped holding down straps to the outside, and inside, 100mm screws through the wall frame sole plate into floor frame, and then 90mm nails shot through on diagonal, again through sole plate into the floor frame. Thanks for your encouragement.
Great video, I'm planning on a similar project! What's the software used for the 3d modelling?
It’s sketchup. Link to a video how I set it up in the description.
Great stuff, you clearly know a hell of a lot about the subject. My question is how does this translate into building a house of more than one storey, or is your focus solely garden rooms and extensions??? I've heard shrinkage can be a real problem on two storeys. Also what about the moisture content of the timber, think we have all seen CLS arrive sopping wet to site! It would be good to hear your thoughts sometime on building an actual house in timber frame on site, thanks.
Two storey is fine for CLS. You can build up to 4 storeys in timber frame without special measures. Shrinkage in timber frame is always an issue, especially in damp uk, regardless of the height and needs to be taken account of. The key is in two areas…. First, design…don’t shortcut the frames , I mention it in the video, and don’t shortcut the joists in terms of sizing , understand about insulation placement and never shortcut …and incorporate vents and movement joints, especially in soffits and fascia. Once you are wind and watertight and the timber has had the time to dry out, you manage the moisture content at that point by incorporating ventilation, breathability, vapour control and airtightness everywhere. You’re always going to have a six month period of cosmetic shrinkage , I just leave my final coat of paint and caulk for nine months out. But rarely do I get more than the odd hairline in the odd corner. If for a customer, I make sure to explain. I’ve seen loads of CZcams videos paying no real respect to ventilation and insulation placement, bish bash bosh,, and we never get to visit these builds a few years later. Great question and thanks for the comment.
@@build-better-things Thanks a lot for the very detailed reply!
Hi Jerry, forgot to ask - how air permeable is OSB 11 mm, which you mentioned in your earlier videos? I am planning on using high density mineral wool insulation (e.g. Rockwoll) for better sound insulation (planning to use the gardenroom as a woodworking workshop and I would like to keep my neighbours happy :) ) , over thermal performance offered by PIR. Will fixing of OSB over the outside of the studwork, provide a chance for the moisture (seasonal and from gradual drying of the timber) to escape through OSB and leave via the breather membrane? Thanks again.
With the glue they are using now in OSB they are fairly impermeable but vapour will get out through the joints. Make sure to have the breather membrane on the outside of the OSB
Hi Jerry, I am really glad I found your channel. Lots of practical tips and very logically explained. I am in the process of building a small garden room (~9m^2) near Glasgow. I was wondering how do you go about supporting the 4 corners of the flooring (e.g. czcams.com/video/UO1IAv3snuY/video.htmlsi=8gqjWhF-C93twD-9&t=368)? Is it a good idea to offset the the perimeter joists by a bit (~20 mm) to allow for fixation of the chipboard, but still provide the support for the bottom plate of the wall (with the created opening to be filled with PIR insulation)? Thank you. Keep up the good work!
Good question. I screw a 200mm wide x 50mm deep noggin or dwang at the perimeter sole plate only to the short ends, so the 600 wide board where unsupported, to prevent movement. I cut the floor insulation to go below the noggin. I don’t do it along the 2400 board length because the joists are there to do that and of 400 centres you’ll have no movement. I don’t offset the perimeter joists because I want to optimise the insulation in the floor. Thanks for you comment.
Hi, I’m about to build a workshop in my garden (timber frame, insulated and clad), and I’ve looked at other peoples builds-sheds, garden rooms etc. I noticed a lot of people are using 4x2 cls but with 400 centres in the wall studs. In your video, you say you are using 600 centres. Any idea why people are building garden rooms with 400 centres? Are they over engineering or am I missing something? Great video by the way 👍
Hi. Good question. Yes, for a 2.5 to 3m high wall, 400 centres is not only over engineered, it’s a bad detail as it creates even more thermal bridging where you’re putting insulation between. I don’t understand why so many do it. 600 centres with 4 x 2 is more than enough provided you use noggins at mid points and OSB sheathing. 2 storey mass build timber frame homes are all at 600 centres with 4 x 2 CLS
@@build-better-things thanks for the swift reply. I was looking at it and wondering why, especially as you use more timber. Another side question to that f I may - would you recommend cls or treated carcassing timber for my purpose? It will be boarded with something inside but I’m just in the process of looking at costs and also wondering why people use smooth planed timber when it’s for stud frames and will be hidden.
@MrGrantspants for the very small difference in cost, I would always choose CLS treated. Less irregularities and easier to get plumb and level therefore. Plus you gain 5mm-10mm of floor space all around. But not really a big deal and go with what you fancy.