Build GOOD Walls! How to do it.
Vložit
- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- How to build a good wall and the 3 most common mistakes people make building walls... Framing lesson from a pro to get it done quickly and Right! In this Video you will learn about grading studs, how to align framing properly, and how to straighten and square a wall.
Check out our online store!
You'll get cool merch and our kids will get to eat.
teespring.com/...
#building #guru #lessons
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this czcams.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
All good tips. I framed for over 40 years and loved it. I like the fact that you can see how much you’ve done by the end of the day. My brother and I had a framing crew for many years. We started with just 2 employees and gradually worked up to 38. When we first started just 4 of us could frame a duplex in 4 days. That was from the slab to ready for the roofers and ready for all ext. paint and ready for all the other trades on the int. Something we did, that I rarely see, is we would put the sheathing on the walls when they were laying down, just as you, but we took it further. We’d also set the windows and doors, nail the soffits to the walls and put all the siding and trim on. Everything is a lot faster and easier when it’s laying down. On the end walls, we would put the gable trusses on with the soffits before lifting. (We had to leave the sheathing and siding off the corners so we could tie the walls together). The back walls were 96 ft. long and pretty heavy, as were the gable walls, so we used wall jacks. The roofs were usually a 4/12 pitch so that was low enough that we could lean over and nail the on facia from the roof. The only time we had to use a ladder for ext. was for the corners, precisely the sheathing, siding, soffit and corner boards.
I miss framing too their are not many things in life like being a beast framer.
Wow never seen it done quite how you are describing.
@@chrisreynolds2410 p
*there
I went to school for carpentry and this is EXACTLY how they taught us to frame walls. GOOD JOB
Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds czcams.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
You're like Matt Risinger that actually works and has a real set of tool bags
grant quinones Ha ha… That’s hilarious! I actually watch Matt’s videos as well. Maybe he makes enough money off his videos that he doesn’t have to really work anymore :-)
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers I have been repairing fences and decks a few years ... can you do a video on how to get the pickets all leval . Kinda like the string you did in the cmu wall you built?
grant quinones I will put it on the list.. Believe it or not I have a really long list with tons of ideas coming up!
Matt's is very in depth, scientific....sometimes too much. Yours are short and great
use a laser, Find your lowest elevation and go from there.
Great video! I've been a carpenter for years. I went to trade school to learn to build houses and I've never seen a wall sheathed, wrapped or squared before standing it up. I usually work by myself so I can guarantee I'll be framing like you do in the video from now on. Thanks for the enlightenment!
Attention to detail ! That is one thing that distinguishes a good tradesman from others . Thanks for sharing.
Measuring the cripples against the king stud was also the common way of gauging an individual's worth to the kingdom in medieval times.
Yep, where do you think they got the word stud from?
Gold.
Good tips.
Been a builder/carpenter for 35 years. That's how I do it too.
2:23-2:34 he's talking about choosing good lumber to work with and that finding good lumber is difficult; as a former Lowe's employee that worked in the lumber department, he is 100% right.
I might add that there's no such thing as a perfect board; just search for the best you can get and work with what you have.
Buy from a mill and not a store
Glad to see there are still craftsmen in the framing trade. Great video!
This is the first Perkins vid I’ve seen, I subbed and look forward to watching more. I’ve been in construction for 20 years at the same company and I truly believe you should never stop trying to learn better ways to build. It’s made me very good at what I do, I like y’alls “uncommon” sense!!
I've watched a number of how-to videos on framing and carpentry for the non-carpenter, and Perkins is some of the best I've seen to date (and I'm happy to say I've learned from some other very good ones).
You would think that these tips would be common practice amongst licensed trades persons. The fact is is that anybody can go to the local Building Center and grab one of those air nailers and call themselves whatever. Big difference between a perfectionist and a butcher. Great video guys
Crowning the studs is one of the first things I learned!
Nice job. Many many carpenters don't overlap the rim and sills with the sheathing and inspectors don't flag it. The only thing holding down the walls are the nails in the plates. Thats so important to keep the walls anchored down when there is uplift in high winds or seismic concerns. It also adds another layer of moisture protection to the rim and sills which so often rot out from improperly flashed openings above. I've seen million dollar homes with absolutely terrible framing practices. You guys are stellar.
I like how you think things out. On your video's you mention " its easier on your back" which is great advice and something your body will happy you did as you age. I often see workers do things that are just terrible for their bodies on job sites and I often hear the same people say how their body is hurting. Be smart think it out. Thanks for another great video.
Thanks Scott... yeah if you do this long enough, you figure out that it will slowly kill you if you do it wrong!!
What a beautiful site when it comes to lunch breaks!
Doing it the same up here in Montreal.
A couple little differences
I was tought to nail the bottom plate to the floor first before you nail any studs in.
We use 2×6 on our exterior & load bearing walls
We put a 1/4" × 5 1/2" foam under the bottom plate.
We would use a chainsaw to open our window openings.
When i started we put one osb 4×9 & then 2 4×9 sheeting. Something about letting the house breath.
Now its all 4×9 sheeting 1/2" with a 1" styrofoam (isofoil)
Its cool to see we are separated by a couple 1000 kilometers yet we have the same building techniques.
Love your videos.
I hella like the square the wall, anchor it, and put sheating and tyvek before its vertical... nice...
Yeah I've done the sheathing while on the floor, but didn't think about putting the house wrap on too. Simple, yet brilliant.
I love building. I'm a carpenter and i know most of this but it cant hurt to know to much! Great video!!
FINALLY. Someone sheathing a wall on the ground. CZcams is full of the other guys..... I cant imagine how anybody makes money trying to throw sheets and then tyvek up off of a ladder. We put everything on the damn wall, overhangs, siding, gables and bay roofs etc. We build our whole porch on the ground too!! So much faster. Cheers from Michigan!!
One thing we do differently, is that i fully toenail the bottom plates of the front and back walls (first walls to go up) to hold the wall in place while lifting. Gets rid of the need to fasten (and remove later...) blocks on the big walls. Once wall is up to about 75-80 degrees they all pop out.. Bink Bink and we just smash em over. Again, good stuff great vid. Rough carpenter 18 years
Thanks brother! Cheers from NC
I HAVE ALSO DONE IT THAT WAY. HAD NO IDEA ANYONE DID IT THE OTHER WAY.
Bet it looks like shit when your'e done !! .. I know you can't do that style with the mansions I build .. Slap it up for the glory of a dollar
Would be a heck of a lot of wasted time to stand without sheets on..
In a lot of jurisdictions you MUST leave building wrap off until you’ve passed a “sheathing inspection.”
The engineer wants to see nailing pattern and type of nails. The city inspector requires that windows and doors are installed prior to sheathing inspection.
It’s a pain buts it’s reality. In those jurisdictions there is really no way to put the Tyvek on before standing the wall.
I like starting with the bottom plate already tacked in place on line. Then you don't have the extra added step of lining it up.
I like that
Saw a comment about marking tops of studs ...agree. I've used a lumber keel crayon in a holder for years. Pick a bright color. If you mark crowns up on studs rafters floor joists a quick glance will tell you if there's a mistake. Like your vids well done and to the point.
Good tip
Good video. Was a professional rock hanger for many years. I almost never saw those diagonal tack nails pulled out after the wall was raised. Usually had to beat them down into the corner before hanging the bottom rock sheet.
Guilty
Seattle framer here.
We put our ply vertically to minimize on horizontal rack blocking for edge panel nailing.
We also can't cover nailing until inspection. Curious you used zipwall for roof but not walls.
Also, this is just a personal thing, i push all headers to touch the top plate, then you don't need load bearing cripples. I also use HH6 to hang them instead of jacks, great for standard load bearing applications under 6'.
Nice informative video, just wish you would have explained mistake number four.
Typical framers will begin by nailing every stud ,trimmer, and cripple to the sole plate without consideration of channel blocking and nailing headers to king studs etc. Would have been nice to point out to start nailing in order of accessibility. Example at 3:45 in the video you show clearly that there is room to screw the header to the king stud. If a 16”oc stud is right next to the king stud and nailed already at the sole plate, it makes it almost impossible to efficiently nail/screw header to king stud.
Keep up the imformative videos!!
It's also good practice to keep your headers high and just build tour window openings down.rhen you are not relying on little crips
Most new builds here in NZ use prenailed framing... it’s quicker, but not always better. We also require a lot more cross bracing because we get so many earthquakes.
Great video though, it’s nice to see there are still actual craftsmen around the world, building with pride in their work.
Talent I wish I saw more of this in the field.!
When I frame an exterior wall as you did here, I put a bead of construction adhesive under the plate and the OSB down the side of the rim joist. NO bugs or air will ever get in
Nice Jerry! Good forward thinking!
I was in the USAF with a Jerry Hubbard. Are you he? 🤔
@@harryl7946 Harry, that is funny another has the same name as me. Good luck with your projects.
Another tip I like to use is to reverse the bows in my king and jack studs so they straighten out when nailed together!
Good video. Looks like a beautiful spot to work. We do things slightly different. When assembling an exterior wall, we put the wall plates on some scrap blocks so that we can feel that the studs are flush on the interior face (drywall side). Sometimes you get variants in width of studs or plates and we like to have the drywall side flush and the exterior side is less important as you often have an air space for masonry or strapping for siding. Also, a stud that is crowned a 1/4" should be used to cut up for pieces above and below your windows. Keep the straighter ones for studs and cripplers. Find a supplier who can get you premium grade lumber and you will have straighter material without wained edges too.
Maybe best instruction on CZcams. Thank you, I'm in the process of building my house and these are incredibly helpful.
Thanks for this.. I'm 67..volunteering at Habitat for Humanity.. and always learning..
What a beautiful jobsite location , I envy you guys that get to stick frame everyday in places like that.
I like the idea of laying tyvek down as well as the sheathing. Most of the time you are doing things in different phases though, or the framing crew doesn't do the flashing. Also, highly recommend putting some of the sill foam underneath to stop air leaks or good ole subfloor adhesive. The nail trick will keep the sill from sliding on the adhesive.
Here in Michigan we put as much as we can on the wall before raised like overhangs, tyvek, anything that needs to go on. When I was a laborer I think 25-26 years ago we had a company from the south start a house in the same subdivision. When they started we we're about to set 2 floor joist. Within 4 days they were raising 2 story walls w/o anything on the walls. I said to my boss, " they're gonna smoke us, they're flying!". He said just watch. We ours done in about 1.5 weeks. It took them 2 months to finish. They used scaffolding but it just took forever to build. They had twice as many guys and we got ours built in 1/3 of the time. Bless their hearts but no way did they make a profit. It was 3.5 dollars a sqft back then.
What an outstanding view. Also great video. My wife and I are going to build our work shop / storage building in two weeks. It's just 12x16, but it will be more finished out than just a frame building.
Although it is more work to sheath after the wall is vertical . It is more difficult to cut and cleat any crown that is bowed toward the exterior.
For years we used a metal straight edge on walls and dimensional joist to ensure we had a perfectly straight / flat surface
I am an electrical contractor by trade but do pretty much everything. You guys do great work. Sad how quality is going away. Its good to see other people such as yourself still care.
Thanks brother! Much appreciated
Great videos and great work. I can appreciate someone who can walk and talk at the same time. Its definitely not something everyone can do. I have taken some terrible workers over the years and turned them into pretty good ones. Teaching someone the right way and taking the time to do things the right way is something that doesn't happen as often as it should. That view was absolutely amazing as well. I'd love to work on a job with you guys someday. If you ever need someone to help on some charity work or something else let me know and I'd gladly come down and help you guys in any way I can.
Wish I watched this video a week ago..just finished framing an addition on a home,could’ve saved ourselves 2 days of work
You know for next time!!
Usually I don't coment the video, also because I don't speek english so well.
But let me tell you that you are great !!! I learn a lot of thinks on your video :-)
Thanks a lot !!!
Ive watched many of your videos. All great advice & attention to detail. Ive been in the trades my whole life & worked with every type of builder. You're among the best from what I can see. I especially like this video, you killed several birds with one shot and made it easier as well.
Thank You for sharing your tips guys...
We use to go through the stack and separate all the crowns and use those for corner, leads, and jacks
Or bracing until the roof goes up! [see wobble box construction video for details]
Nice explanations! Great job, guys. Spending a little more time doing it right the first time saves time down the road for other trades.
Tyvek should be ONE SHEET around the structure as much as possible. It adds more rigidity than you’d think. I mean, it’s called “house wrap” after all. Otherwise, great video.
You should have also put construction adhesive under neath the bottom plate to help secure it more and keep bugs out. They can fit through small cracks like that
Most builders these days caulk all plate and stud joints. It's a whole other job for a different company.
It makes an ungodly mess and the wall usually slides around because of the coating. We just caulk the inside of the sill plate after the walls are stood. Much cleaner and easier.
ThisGuyWantsBeer I’ve never had it be a crazy mess, but it makes it a way stronger wall overall
I run a thick bead on the outside edge of the subfloor before we stand the wall up. Better to stop bugs before they can enter the house at all
What about insulating foam, no arrent drafts no bugs. Between the bottom plate.
Somebody forgot the sill seal. Beautiful view. I'm going with northern VA.
Tack the bottom plate to chalk (wall) line before assembling wall. Much easier
yep for sure
Fantastic, short and very informative.
Really liked "nailed it" (Jason i think), i rewinded 3times. He should have one liners in each video, it will be really entertaining
Thanks.. and yes he is always entertaining!! Not just on film.
We used up acoustic sealant the bottom plate to stop drafts as well as typar it before lifting the walls to save doing it from a ladder after.
I hate sheeting and putting house wrap on from a ladder and 25 feet in the air! Great video!
Zip R makes it ever more fun! Nothing like sheeting 2 inches thick to make your day.
I always nailed the bottom plate to the line before any of of the wall components are attached to it , saving your back from having to move all the wall weight to line it up afterwards .
bingo! thats the way ive always done it.......works way better
Omg, now I have to take my trailer apart and redo the whole thing ...haha
This is good for true professional framers who do high quality work.
You can rest assured you will NOT find this in tract housing such as as DR Horton, Centex, or other mas produced homes
Very nicely done. We alwaysed toe nailed the bottom plate to layout first with the gun 1.5 inch up at 45 deg you wont have to remove it. Crips nail to a king stud above a header does nothing. Unless on the 16 center.
Thank you for explaining the crown. I always thought it was about the wood grain at the end of the board. I have built my own barn and shed plus other things. But I was not doing it your way. Luckily my stuff worked out.
I couldn't agree more, sheet the walls before standing them. I can't understand why some framers seem to want to make things harder on themselves.
Adds a lot of weight on big walls and makes it harder to raise.
I always nail 2-4 sheets down after squaring, then hang the rest vertical. Saves the back and keeps 'er true.
@@MotivatedMetalworks It does make them easier to raise.
@@Jay-tk7ib Not when it's 2x6 16" OC 35' long and 10' tall with one door and (2) 4x2' window openings in the whole thing.
@@MotivatedMetalworks I was agreeing with you. Raising the wall unsheathed is much easier to lift, but if you have the man power, or wall jacks, you save yourself a lot of work by sheathing before raising. But you gotta do what you gotta do.
I'm going to try doing it with my tractor's front end loader on my next 40' long wall. Certainly not always an option, but might be the hot ticket when it is.
Step 1 is get rid of all studs that have over 1/16 inch crown. Even one stud that has 1/4 inch crown next to one that has no crown creates a crooked wall.
Step 7 tyvek has to be installed with a nail and cap per tyvek installation instructions. Staples with no cap will void the tyvek warranty. Also has to hang by the foundation 1 inch.
so with that we would end up going with steel.
here in boston the studs turn to branches as soon as home depot cuts the bands.junk within 20 minuts,
@@softmetals3702 Same thing here in Michigan. You sort through 100 studs to find 10 straight ones. Then, if you don't use them today, then by tomorrow they are all crooked as hell.
The temporary hinge was brilliant in keeping alignment with the edge.
Good video. Like the wild Wild West on the job sites around here. Bunch of cowboys. Every cowpoke with a six shooter wants to be a gunslinger. NTM the sites are getting flooded with amateurs again. Insane cycle. Like the tide. - Stuff in this video is 101. Was drilled into my head when I was cutting my teeth. Most of the sites I’m on... there is a gap at the top plate and nothing is plumb. When I say drilled I mean True, Plumb Level and square. 1/4’ is a lot in a 30’ run. Good video Thanks
Keeping it more real than it should. Thanks guys.
As a DIY'er I have never seen the tack method. Wow, really make it square and true
Thanks for teaching us. Good video.
Thanks for the tips! Greatly appreciated.
Cool and informative video. I live in Amish country over here. When I drive by a house they are framing I cringe, 10 or more going like crazy on a 3,000sqft house. I've seen braces cut 1"-2" short on pole barns with about 10 nails in them. 😳
Barn-raisings just ain't what they used to be
I volunteered with Habitat for Humanity for several years, and put together a lot of walls. Wish I'd known this then--it would have saved a lot of time, and, given that every weekend we'd get a new batch of short-timer volunteers, a lot of trouble as well.
Loving these old tutorials 🤙
thank you 4 your time xx
Good job guys. I personally like OSB for most applications. However I like plywood for sub floors.
Plywood is an ABSOLUTE for Me for floors. I do not trust them for floors.
Good video. Always nice to see people who care about good quality work.
1. 06:07 What happens after you square, sheath and erect the wall. You now have a rigid wall and what if the floor is uneven and there are gaps between wall and floor or a gap between walls at a corner?
2. 06:18 I know plywood and OSB manufacturers recommend a gap between panels. Problem is the panels are 48" wide; NOT 47 7/8" wide (or 96" vs. 95 7/8"). So, after installing 8 panels with 1/8" gap, your seam will be 1" off centerline of stud or truss.
3. 06:39 Why are there two sill plates between the foundation and floor joists/rim joist?
Thanks...
1. Having a flat floor (at least at the edge under the exterior wall) is very important for this method of sheeting first to work well. We do our own masonry to get a nice foundation and then use an electric planer if needed to normalize all of the floor joists before sheeting the floor so that when we stand the walls there is no gapping.
2. We only gap the OSB on the long sides (parallel to the orientation of the strands of wood that make up the sheet). Because We have found that osb swells a lot more in the width direction than the length because of the orientation of the chips it is made of.
3. The double sill plate is for high wind zone building code, since we are on a ridge top. The osb on the walls laps down over both plates and is nailed every 3” to each to hold the house to the foundation.
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers Okay, thanks.
First and foremost....... Never build a wall next to the Rio Grande.
PS...we were lucky to have quality builders do our house. When the cabinets were measured up and later installed, the guy couldn’t believe how straight, square, plumb, and level everything was. Nine years later, the same.
It makes every step of building a home afterwards SOOO much easier
Def build it large and tell next to the rio Grande
Wow that was good stuff!crown out makes perfect sense. Covered rim joist with sheeting,always pull diagonals,cripples above headers diamentions at ends.
All makes you think this is common sense,but I still have to splain this Lucy.
Over nd over! Just gonna get evbody to watch your channel!!
Thanx again...
This is why we use pretty much all LSL lumber. A lot more straight and easy to work with. Walls are heavier to lift unfortunately but worth it.
Great video we use they same techniques but tack the bottom plate before nailing studs. Also cut your cripples a 1/16" long as they will shrink a bit on the cut edge.
yeah, cut em long, beat em in, and put a huge hump in your wall....not....i always cut mine a tad short if anything
Just a tip,on doorways,cut half way through bottom of bottom plate on both sides of jamb. It makes it easier to cut out plates when the time comes.
These guys are top notch.
First time in this Chanel great explanation and straight forward
The reason they send steel banding out with the lumber is to give you material to make straps to keep the wall from sliding off the deck when you tip it up. Make an l ( el ) shaped strap 10 inches long. slide it under the baseplate and nail it to the plate, then , before sheathing, nail it to the deck. One ever 10 feet is about right. If you're lazy and the room gets carpet, then you don't even need to cut them off.
Good video, just one small nit picky thing, plumb and square are not the same thing. you cant plumb a vertical surface while its laying horizontal. Just my 2 cents.
If the subfloor is level and the wall is square, once the wall is stood it will be plumb.
Such a good video. I love these guys. I’m preparing to build my own house, so these tips are golden.
if only i found this video sooner. great one guys
Rewatching this in 2022. I find it hilarious how many times Eric says plywood after giving Jamie such a hard time about this
I heard that too! 🤣🤣
Thanks for making walls great again....
Gotta say, I love the house wrap! I work at Jennings so it threw me off to see our logo. Keep up the good work and thanks for the great video.
Thanks again for helping me with yet another project! I’ve learned many more ways to improve my quality in your videos.
Got it. On my way to the border now.
Christian Garibay hurry up
The problem isn't that our materials are harvested in nature. The problem is that mills are cutting corners left and right to get product shipped. I've ripped 2x4s, picked up the saw dust and squeezed out water. These boards are being shipped _way_ too wet. That's why we're getting so much more garbage lumber than we used to. Well, that and a lot of it is force-grown pine that has even less density than it should have (which isn't much to begin with.
Nope, nature has very little to do with the crappy lumber we have to deal with.
Awesome 👍. I'm learning alot watching you . Thank you and stay safe .
Amaizing my friend thank for video and tip the walls
I used the crowned ones for my 3 stud corners and cripples. Also tie my kingstuds to my trimmers, flipping the crowns in opposite directions.Use your best lumber for your outside walls. Just a few pointers.
If your floor is even just a tad out of level and you square your wall laying flat, would that not make it out of plumb? I think that's why some stand their walls before sheeting it.
Thanks for the great video. I do have a question: let's say you measured your wall diagonals and they weren't the same? Can you show us a clip of the nitty gritty process of resolving that?
Ian Courter if one side is longer go to that corner and hit it with a hammer (inward) until the numbers match within an 1/8th of an inch
Just cause the studs are all nailed together doesn’t mean the wall can’t be wiggled into or out of square
It’s quite weeble wobbily until you put the OSB on it and can be tapped with a big hammer or even a foot sometimes to be wrangled into shape
First video I've seen that shows a visible crown, and explains what it is.
Putting the crown up is actually even better because it places your bow to the exterior side.
Looks so fun.
Thanks I enjoy the videos. Learning alot
I like to but my speed square into the rim and then measure 5 1/2 because sometimes people make shit cuts on the subfloor so you know your next wall is 5 1/2 from the frame and not the subfloor