Amazing! Thank you very much for sharing, I have learnt a lot! We would like to have L6*W7 meters extention for kitchen and living room. The rocket high price stopped us. If Diyerable it would be a fantastic news for us. If building control can accept completely wood for the wall and no foundation, I am confident to do it by myself. Foundation is too hard and time consuming. And I am not confident to lay bricks. As I know bricks structure need to be very accurate to prevent falling or crack in the future but wood is flexible it tolerates a bit on measurements. I have some diy experience as i did garden room, layed floor, assembled furnitures.....
You have to get a structural engineer to design your foundations for your wall, however, Building control will accept a wall construction done completely in timber. I made a video about it here. TIMBER FRAME v BRICK BLOCK Masonry- House Extension walls - Architect Builder’s 5 expert tips czcams.com/video/HHunXgidQL4/video.html Good luck and thanks for your comment.
Interesting that you have gone for a full foundation setup. I note from other videos that often other firms are having localised pads then spanning over from the existing foundation to the new pad arrangement with concrete lintels. I would be interested to hear your opinion of this method? Was there a reason why you did not do this?
Great videos, slowly going through all of yours. I don’t think I could tackle the entire project myself as I think a factor of time would be the disadvantage for me. I’m looking into getting a shell only extension but wouldn’t mind helping out along the way if I can be a labourer or something to not get in the way
Shell only is a good approach, helps you cap your budget…since the finishes and fixtures, the expensive stuff… you can then get your head around. Good luck and thanks for your comment
And ladies and gentlemen that's how simple it is to build an extension. This just deminishes all my 33 years of experience building in just under 30 mins.😂😂😂
12:22 if those boxes are not going to be accessible, they need to be the slightly larger size WagoBoxes, with the correct type of connectors inside to be considered Maintenance Free and meet BS5733, not WagoBoxLights.
Yes, exactly this. With the latest requirements for u values and insulation, building traditional cavity walls with block, I’m not sure it’s economic any more. I intend making a video about the economics of it soon. Thanks for the comment.
Great video! could both of the sub ground block courses have been laid at the same time? is there a reason the second course wasn't started until the timber frame was up? Thanks...
The best way to do that is to do trench blocks laid on their sides, with no cavity. There was a shortage of blocks in the country when this was built and so I had to do this compromise instead, where I just built the inner leaf trench block. Not ideal but allowed me to get on with the next stages (steel work and timber frame) without delays. Note I left wall ties exposed so the outer leaf could be tied in. Very observant and great question.
I chose these because they manufacture big areas of glass. If you go for cheaper, eg UPVC…you will have to break up the view with transoms or mullions. I chose them because the super low e glass combined with the design of the frames means very low u values, in plain English, much lower heat loss. There’s a load of other reasons…but those are the principle ones. I buy them direct from the manufacturer, although they are Swedish they have sales offices in UK and customer service is good. There are other excellent choices,,,rational, Andersen, Velfac. Hope that helps.
You don’t need the outer brick for this system. You can use any cladding. Check out my video here which explains it a little better TIMBER FRAME v BRICK BLOCK Masonry- House Extension walls - Architect Builder’s 5 expert tips czcams.com/video/HHunXgidQL4/video.html
Depends on the live and dead loads, and what these walls are carrying (roof, another storey), a slab can work, but only if you take the loading of the walls at its edges into account, usually by thickening up like a raft foundation. Another solution is mini piles. Strips are often the most straightforward and the least amount of work. Like everything else in building,,,,, I just depends.
If this has been a standard masonry cavity wall junction then I might have done that. However as I had a steel column going in at that point to support the beam on each end where the inner load would have been, so it was easier to put DPC to the steel and lap the breather membrane for the new timber frame. I made a video about it here which will make it clearer. Probably about half way through the vid. Installing steel beams for a house extension czcams.com/video/3t9r2dwvAFA/video.html
Can i ask please, reading about rear extension (looking to self manage one) they say build the watertight shell then knock though to make open plan with the steels. However, every video I've watched has people knocking though and installing the steels before building the extension, why is that?
I’m not sure who you are referring to when you say “they”, but the only scenario I would do what you are suggesting is where the owner insists on staying in the property, and I would do it only very reluctantly as that never ends well. You want all heavy and disruptive work out of the way, all possible micro movements managed and understood before you start any new fixings, any new things into that same wall. You want to do your down takes before your new work.
I couldn’t say without seeing the drawings. I’ve made different videos where I go through the price breakdown in detail with all the separate trades, so you could check those out.
I live in Scotland too and I've noticed this trend for Scottish properties to be built with a timber frame. For me, this seems like a glorified shed and i much prefer the English way of brick and block.
It’s hard to reply because you’re not being specific about your preference and what you mean by a shed . I made a video about the two constructions types and how I compare them. I have built both ways, several times, over many years. I would never go back to brick and block. So many reasons. Insulation, ventilation control, breathability , economy, speed, ease… too many reasons to mention here. Have a look at the vid and tell me what you think… TIMBER FRAME v BRICK BLOCK Masonry- House Extension walls - Architect Builder’s 5 expert tips czcams.com/video/HHunXgidQL4/video.html
I made a video about the cost of it. You can see it here. How much did I pay to build this HOUSE EXTENSION? Full price, cost breakdown czcams.com/video/Qk_1vCiicMk/video.html
Yes, exactly that. The size of the pads for the steel were too big to shutter without the demolitions done first. So I did it in two pours. Also I wanted a firm base for the props to stand on rather than the grass and old top soil, and the blinding concrete for the new solum was ideal for that.
Hi. I’m not sure which 4 metres you mean? On this project the maximum height was set by the brick course immediately below the upper floor window sill, which is where the flashing is chased into. Then I’m aiming for a 150mm drop to the top of the abutting roof tiles which the flashing sits over, then the roofing battens. All of that sets up the height of the joists, so you’re working downwards from the brick course.
Excellent...how much would you estimate you saved on labour costs doing this yourself?... im planning on a double story with ground floor wrap around and loft conversion, but labour costs ar putting this well out of reach as prices are madness lately.
A contractor would have done it faster perhaps. Even taking account of what I spent paying for my friend to help I would imagine I saved maybe £35-40k, the quotes I was getting for the demolitions and temporary propping was £9k alone!! . There probably would have been 20pc to add in vat on top of that. I saved £8k by doing the foundations for sure. I had to pay for a bricklayer and the steel fabricator 's men for a day, as well as all of the building materials, but I would have had those costs anyway. Of course you could argue I need to put a price on my own time, but this is about saving hard cash by doing it yourself without relying on a main contractor!!
@@build-better-things maybe if i can do as much as i can then i have a chance, no aspect of an extension is difficult when broken into bite size chunks.
Hi. Timber frame construction is a standard construction system in the U.K. For example section 6 of technical requirements of the NHBC guidance. So this is a standard construction.
Thanks for your comment. I finally put together a video which tells the cost and gives a breakdown. How much did I pay to build this HOUSE EXTENSION..? Full price and breakdown czcams.com/video/Qk_1vCiicMk/video.html
Hi. C24 is has a greater strength rating than C16. That basically means that it can span longer or, and especially for wall studs, has a greater compression strength. For example, for 145mm x 45 floor joists the difference is around 350mm in length of span so it does make quite a difference. For wall studs there will be a reason your engineer has specified C24, so you should check with them. The builder has used C16 because it’s cheaper and most of their customers never know once it’s covered up. I made a video here that might help you czcams.com/video/qzewVm_CWgs/video.html
You have less payments to make if you do it yourself, so you’re saving money, but you have to put value on your own time and also take into account it well take you longer. So I wouldn’t describe it as cheap v expensive. You need to consider your own abilities versus a trades person that does it everyday. I’m trying to focus in the tasks a self builder can do that are not dependent on super neat finishing such as facing brick or finishing joinery work.
I used the bricks from Raeburn Bricks. I like the richer and natural tones they have, and I just went to my local merchant's yard with samples from the existing house to get the closest match, since sometimes what is in the brochures always looks different from what the brick looks like in real life. Thanks for the comment.
No mention of compliance with current building regulations and the responsibilities of all parties involved in complying with the recent Building Safety Act!
Did you watch the whole video? I mentioned the regulatory stuff and gave a link to another video I made of pre site start preparation and how I dealt with the regulations in place at the time. If you watch it again, maybe you’ll catch it. And then you can watch the relevant video. ☺️. Thanks for your comment.
Hi. The only manufacturers that can make these size of windows and with these profile sizes are few and far between, Scandinavian or German. The standard fare in the U.K. Is to go for upvc frames which are much chunkier and don’t have the spanning strength, so you have to introduce vertical mullions, and therefore less natural light, and it looks really ugly in my view, or for more traditional uses, bespoke timber with narrow sections and lots of mullions and transoms. I just find the upvc ugly and not worth the modest saving you will get. Plus, the modest extra spend on high quality frames, glass and manufacturing will pay for itself in terms of way better U values and therefore less heat loss, so lower bills and better resale value should you sell. Other manufacturers I would consider would be Rational, or Velfac. Thanks for the comment.
I used SketchUp and just the free hand drawing app that comes with the iPad. I made a video about my drawing process here….How I designed this House Extension - start to finish, all the stages czcams.com/video/DM5IZMAEQ4o/video.html
Hi. This possibly would fall under Permitted Development. However since I’ll always get a certificate of lawfulness for Permitted Development, getting full planning permission is just as easy and sometimes gives additional options for the build, so I prefer to go down that route. I made a video about the process here How I designed this House Extension - start to finish, all the stages czcams.com/video/DM5IZMAEQ4o/video.html
I explain why they are the depth they are in my other video here. How to set out FOUNDATIONS FOR HOUSE EXTENSION to save THOUSANDS..architect shows you how czcams.com/video/CpMPwhV_BE4/video.html Thank you for your comment.
From memory, around 24 degrees, set up by the height of the upstairs windows. Make sure to always check the minimum pitch the manufacturer allows when specifying roof tiles and slates.
I go through the cost in this video. How much did I pay to build this HOUSE EXTENSION? Full price, cost breakdown czcams.com/video/Qk_1vCiicMk/video.html
This’ll be awesome when it’s complete. 👌🏼
Amazing video! Thanks for taking the time to record it!
Thanks a lot for the comment. I appreciate it.
This is incredible, thank you!
As an 'insider' I can wholeheartedly recommend this video as a valuable resource. Even I've SUBSCRIBED!
Brilliant video
Alright mate, thanks a lot for these videos!
Thank you for the comment.
Thank you for the detailed video but I fell asleep watching this while in bed, he has one of those soothing voices 😄
He he. I hope you enjoyed the sleep.
Had to save this video looking at getting an extension early next year , thanks
Good luck with it and thanks for your comment.
Amazing! Thank you very much for sharing, I have learnt a lot! We would like to have L6*W7 meters extention for kitchen and living room. The rocket high price stopped us. If Diyerable it would be a fantastic news for us. If building control can accept completely wood for the wall and no foundation, I am confident to do it by myself. Foundation is too hard and time consuming. And I am not confident to lay bricks. As I know bricks structure need to be very accurate to prevent falling or crack in the future but wood is flexible it tolerates a bit on measurements. I have some diy experience as i did garden room, layed floor, assembled furnitures.....
You have to get a structural engineer to design your foundations for your wall, however, Building control will accept a wall construction done completely in timber. I made a video about it here.
TIMBER FRAME v BRICK BLOCK Masonry- House Extension walls - Architect Builder’s 5 expert tips
czcams.com/video/HHunXgidQL4/video.html
Good luck and thanks for your comment.
What a great explanatory video! Really informative and interesting! Thank you!
You great sr I just discover you channel
Great video
Great job, very inspiring
Thanks a lot
Thank you. Incredibly well done
Thanks a lot for your comment
Interesting that you have gone for a full foundation setup. I note from other videos that often other firms are having localised pads then spanning over from the existing foundation to the new pad arrangement with concrete lintels. I would be interested to hear your opinion of this method? Was there a reason why you did not do this?
There’s more work in the method you’ve explained, that’s why I prefer the Strip foundation.
Great videos, slowly going through all of yours. I don’t think I could tackle the entire project myself as I think a factor of time would be the disadvantage for me. I’m looking into getting a shell only extension but wouldn’t mind helping out along the way if I can be a labourer or something to not get in the way
Shell only is a good approach, helps you cap your budget…since the finishes and fixtures, the expensive stuff… you can then get your head around. Good luck and thanks for your comment
And ladies and gentlemen that's how simple it is to build an extension. This just deminishes all my 33 years of experience building in just under 30 mins.😂😂😂
12:22 if those boxes are not going to be accessible, they need to be the slightly larger size WagoBoxes, with the correct type of connectors inside to be considered Maintenance Free and meet BS5733, not WagoBoxLights.
Well informative 👍
Thank you
I always push towards a timber kit build vs traditional as I can get the build water tight myself and I’m not waiting on the bricky.
Yes, exactly this. With the latest requirements for u values and insulation, building traditional cavity walls with block, I’m not sure it’s economic any more. I intend making a video about the economics of it soon. Thanks for the comment.
@@build-better-things never thought about it that way either, suppose that’s the difference between the builder vs the designer mind.
Please write a book, if you can.
Great video! could both of the sub ground block courses have been laid at the same time? is there a reason the second course wasn't started until the timber frame was up? Thanks...
The best way to do that is to do trench blocks laid on their sides, with no cavity. There was a shortage of blocks in the country when this was built and so I had to do this compromise instead, where I just built the inner leaf trench block. Not ideal but allowed me to get on with the next stages (steel work and timber frame) without delays. Note I left wall ties exposed so the outer leaf could be tied in. Very observant and great question.
Hi - great vid, well explained and executed. Thank you. Why and where do you buy the windows from in Sweden? Thank you ❤
I chose these because they manufacture big areas of glass. If you go for cheaper, eg UPVC…you will have to break up the view with transoms or mullions. I chose them because the super low e glass combined with the design of the frames means very low u values, in plain English, much lower heat loss. There’s a load of other reasons…but those are the principle ones. I buy them direct from the manufacturer, although they are Swedish they have sales offices in UK and customer service is good. There are other excellent choices,,,rational, Andersen, Velfac. Hope that helps.
I am planning to like this do we really need to built brick wall or just install composite cladding on
You don’t need the outer brick for this system. You can use any cladding. Check out my video here which explains it a little better
TIMBER FRAME v BRICK BLOCK Masonry- House Extension walls - Architect Builder’s 5 expert tips
czcams.com/video/HHunXgidQL4/video.html
Do you still need that foundation for a wooden extension structure ? Or will a concrete slab do the job
Depends on the live and dead loads, and what these walls are carrying (roof, another storey), a slab can work, but only if you take the loading of the walls at its edges into account, usually by thickening up like a raft foundation. Another solution is mini piles. Strips are often the most straightforward and the least amount of work. Like everything else in building,,,,, I just depends.
Do you cut a slot in the brickwork then slide some damp proof material in to make a vertical dpc before joining timber frame to original house
If this has been a standard masonry cavity wall junction then I might have done that. However as I had a steel column going in at that point to support the beam on each end where the inner load would have been, so it was easier to put DPC to the steel and lap the breather membrane for the new timber frame. I made a video about it here which will make it clearer. Probably about half way through the vid.
Installing steel beams for a house extension
czcams.com/video/3t9r2dwvAFA/video.html
Where can I learn about in Georgia state?
Can i ask please, reading about rear extension (looking to self manage one) they say build the watertight shell then knock though to make open plan with the steels. However, every video I've watched has people knocking though and installing the steels before building the extension, why is that?
I’m not sure who you are referring to when you say “they”, but the only scenario I would do what you are suggesting is where the owner insists on staying in the property, and I would do it only very reluctantly as that never ends well. You want all heavy and disruptive work out of the way, all possible micro movements managed and understood before you start any new fixings, any new things into that same wall. You want to do your down takes before your new work.
What did builders do for thousands of years before polythene?
Im doing a home like this , was wondering what the quote cost range from, you think 40k can give me similar results without out the brik
I couldn’t say without seeing the drawings. I’ve made different videos where I go through the price breakdown in detail with all the separate trades, so you could check those out.
I live in Scotland too and I've noticed this trend for Scottish properties to be built with a timber frame. For me, this seems like a glorified shed and i much prefer the English way of brick and block.
It’s hard to reply because you’re not being specific about your preference and what you mean by a shed . I made a video about the two constructions types and how I compare them. I have built both ways, several times, over many years. I would never go back to brick and block. So many reasons. Insulation, ventilation control, breathability , economy, speed, ease… too many reasons to mention here. Have a look at the vid and tell me what you think…
TIMBER FRAME v BRICK BLOCK Masonry- House Extension walls - Architect Builder’s 5 expert tips
czcams.com/video/HHunXgidQL4/video.html
Awesome video! How much does this all cost inclusing the kitchen fitting?
I made a video about the cost of it. You can see it here.
How much did I pay to build this HOUSE EXTENSION? Full price, cost breakdown
czcams.com/video/Qk_1vCiicMk/video.html
Did you pour the trench foundations first and then at a later date once the demo work completed, dig and pour the pads for the steel posts?
Yes, exactly that. The size of the pads for the steel were too big to shutter without the demolitions done first. So I did it in two pours. Also I wanted a firm base for the props to stand on rather than the grass and old top soil, and the blinding concrete for the new solum was ideal for that.
Does the max 4 meter roof height include the thickness of the tiles or is it the top of the wall plate? Many thanks.
Hi. I’m not sure which 4 metres you mean? On this project the maximum height was set by the brick course immediately below the upper floor window sill, which is where the flashing is chased into. Then I’m aiming for a 150mm drop to the top of the abutting roof tiles which the flashing sits over, then the roofing battens. All of that sets up the height of the joists, so you’re working downwards from the brick course.
which 3d program you use for the virtual work?
I use Sketchup
Excellent...how much would you estimate you saved on labour costs doing this yourself?... im planning on a double story with ground floor wrap around and loft conversion, but labour costs ar putting this well out of reach as prices are madness lately.
A contractor would have done it faster perhaps. Even taking account of what I spent paying for my friend to help I would imagine I saved maybe £35-40k, the quotes I was getting for the demolitions and temporary propping was £9k alone!! . There probably would have been 20pc to add in vat on top of that. I saved £8k by doing the foundations for sure. I had to pay for a bricklayer and the steel fabricator 's men for a day, as well as all of the building materials, but I would have had those costs anyway. Of course you could argue I need to put a price on my own time, but this is about saving hard cash by doing it yourself without relying on a main contractor!!
@@build-better-things maybe if i can do as much as i can then i have a chance, no aspect of an extension is difficult when broken into bite size chunks.
So was this a Non-Standard Construction build considering it has timber frame structure rather than brick/stone?
Hi. Timber frame construction is a standard construction system in the U.K. For example section 6 of technical requirements of the NHBC guidance. So this is a standard construction.
And this amazing extension how much it cost??? Thank you!!
Thanks for your comment. I finally put together a video which tells the cost and gives a breakdown.
How much did I pay to build this HOUSE EXTENSION..? Full price and breakdown
czcams.com/video/Qk_1vCiicMk/video.html
Great work. Is there a way I can get in touch personally.
If you go to buildbetterthings.com/one-to-one-consults/ or there’s an email on this channel you can get. Thanks
Great video ,
My spec is c24 wall studs however my builder has used c16....is this usable
Hi. C24 is has a greater strength rating than C16. That basically means that it can span longer or, and especially for wall studs, has a greater compression strength. For example, for 145mm x 45 floor joists the difference is around 350mm in length of span so it does make quite a difference. For wall studs there will be a reason your engineer has specified C24, so you should check with them. The builder has used C16 because it’s cheaper and most of their customers never know once it’s covered up. I made a video here that might help you
czcams.com/video/qzewVm_CWgs/video.html
Can build a double store extension using the timber frame method?
Absolutely. 2 storeys no problem, all in timber frame.
Is it cheaper to do it yourself or get people to do it for you?
You have less payments to make if you do it yourself, so you’re saving money, but you have to put value on your own time and also take into account it well take you longer. So I wouldn’t describe it as cheap v expensive. You need to consider your own abilities versus a trades person that does it everyday. I’m trying to focus in the tasks a self builder can do that are not dependent on super neat finishing such as facing brick or finishing joinery work.
What bricks did use ? Looks good
I used the bricks from Raeburn Bricks. I like the richer and natural tones they have, and I just went to my local merchant's yard with samples from the existing house to get the closest match, since sometimes what is in the brochures always looks different from what the brick looks like in real life. Thanks for the comment.
Where is the solum link? Never mind found it..
House Extension Step by Step | WHY you NEED to know | Don't shortcut!
czcams.com/video/zkE9x1-lhkc/video.html
No mention of compliance with current building regulations and the responsibilities of all parties involved in complying with the recent Building Safety Act!
Did you watch the whole video? I mentioned the regulatory stuff and gave a link to another video I made of pre site start preparation and how I dealt with the regulations in place at the time. If you watch it again, maybe you’ll catch it. And then you can watch the relevant video. ☺️. Thanks for your comment.
Hi, great video. Can I ask why you preferred to get the windows from Sweden? Thank you.
Hi. The only manufacturers that can make these size of windows and with these profile sizes are few and far between, Scandinavian or German. The standard fare in the U.K. Is to go for upvc frames which are much chunkier and don’t have the spanning strength, so you have to introduce vertical mullions, and therefore less natural light, and it looks really ugly in my view, or for more traditional uses, bespoke timber with narrow sections and lots of mullions and transoms. I just find the upvc ugly and not worth the modest saving you will get. Plus, the modest extra spend on high quality frames, glass and manufacturing will pay for itself in terms of way better U values and therefore less heat loss, so lower bills and better resale value should you sell. Other manufacturers I would consider would be Rational, or Velfac. Thanks for the comment.
@@build-better-things Thanks for the great informative content. Any chance you could share the details of where you bought your windows please ?
Hi. I bought the windows directly from Nordan uk.
@build-better-things perfect thank you
Which app you used for explain the design plz
I used SketchUp and just the free hand drawing app that comes with the iPad. I made a video about my drawing process here….How I designed this House Extension - start to finish, all the stages
czcams.com/video/DM5IZMAEQ4o/video.html
@@build-better-things thank you ☺
Did u do this under p d please.
Hi. This possibly would fall under Permitted Development. However since I’ll always get a certificate of lawfulness for Permitted Development, getting full planning permission is just as easy and sometimes gives additional options for the build, so I prefer to go down that route. I made a video about the process here
How I designed this House Extension - start to finish, all the stages
czcams.com/video/DM5IZMAEQ4o/video.html
Those are deep footings for a extention
I explain why they are the depth they are in my other video here.
How to set out FOUNDATIONS FOR HOUSE EXTENSION to save THOUSANDS..architect shows you how
czcams.com/video/CpMPwhV_BE4/video.html
Thank you for your comment.
What angle is the roof?
From memory, around 24 degrees, set up by the height of the upstairs windows. Make sure to always check the minimum pitch the manufacturer allows when specifying roof tiles and slates.
What was the total cost for this Build?
I go through the cost in this video.
How much did I pay to build this HOUSE EXTENSION? Full price, cost breakdown
czcams.com/video/Qk_1vCiicMk/video.html
you need to isulated the house anyway so don't worry about brickwork😂