9 Timber Frame and Joinery mistakes to avoid
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- čas přidán 15. 07. 2024
- The most common joinery, carpentry and timber frame mistakes in home improvement and home construction projects, mistakes that even experienced builders and tradesmen make, why they do it, and how you can learn from it.
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0:00 intro
1:25 Chipboard and particle board - Timber frame walls - structural
3:00 Correct space / void not allowed for - 150mm
3:26 No ventilation for the underfloor / undercroft / solum space
4:02 Weak mix concrete blinding and DPM below suspended floor
4:25 Ventilating rain screen for Timber Cedar, Larch or Hardie board cladding
5:06 Need to use counter battens as well as horizontal battens to avoid rot
5:50 Need to allow for movement for plastic fascias, soffits, chipboard and timber sheeting
6:43 Not doubling up top rail in timber wall panels / timber frame / stick const
7:21 Not adding holding down straps for roof and wall panels
8:24 Using a ply or OSB deck for your flat roof will create problems
8:57 Cold and thermal bridging from timber frame walls and roofs through uninsulated studs
9:43 Pursue excellence and avoid shortcuts - Jak na to + styl
In England it is common practice to build walls off 'Egger Protect' flooring on garden rooms and also large cabins. Egger Protect is an expensive material so maybe is OK??? Just wondered what your opinion is on this, great video, it is a very good point you have raised about building off chipboard.
Hi. Yes, I understand it’s common practice by some. I see it also on a lot of popular CZcams self build and DIY channels. The reason they do it, I guess, is to make it easier to make their walls right angled, rather than using 345. It’s a terrible detail. You’ll hear the standard “I’ve been doing this for years and never had a problem” answer. Phone up a structural engineer, phone up Egger protect manufacturer as well, and ask if it’s suitable for taking roof point loads, and you’ll have your answer. Have you ever had your kitchen worktop swell up and fail when it gets moisture ingrained? What happens if the weight compresses the tiny air gaps in chipboard? Or part of the composite fails? Of course it’s a rare occurrence. If it fails.. will your builder come back to re build your investment at their cost…. Or pay you compensation? And if you’re doing it yourself…how will you feel if all your hard work is ruined? Why not just do it right in the first place?
@@build-better-things Yes I do get what you are saying, it is a brilliant point. I saw one CZcamsr build his own cabin with a glulam beam to create about a 5m open space, he had about 6 vertical timbers supporting it, all on the Egger Protect, he isn't a commercial builder though. It is a cabin on a steel frame with wheels with an apron cladding system. So the edge of this flooring could be a bit of a potential weak spot I guess.
Excellent, thank you.
Thanks a lot.
Excellent video, very clearly explained..! Hv u made a video for timber frame, if so pls confirm. I have timber frame on the 1st floor 5” thick studs. Will they be enough to hold a dormer loft conversion. Wht size should the studs be..?
Hi. I’ve made videos about attic conversion, dormer windows, and a load on timber frame. Just have a look at the play lists. I’m reluctant to give advice on timber sizing as it’s always project specific. Thanks a lot for your comment.
I take your point about not adding another OSB on top of a warm roof insulation. My question is, can rubber roofs be safely bonded to foiled backed PIR insulation without risk of delamination?
Hi. No, never used foil backed insulation for these applications. It’s a common mistake. Yes, use PIR, but you need to use boards with no foil. You cannot bond onto the foil. Not only that, the foil can create issues with vapour control / transfer in a warm roof situation.
The flat roof one caught me out! Ive seen so many drawings with a top skin of timber to grp onto? When did this change?
Manufacturers and some installers in the UK still specify this method, using the foil backed PIR. It’s a horrible detail. Think about it. Why would you want anything that’s made of timber on the cold side of your insulation when you can use the correct insulation and bond your membrane straight on. No timber. No rot. No problem.
Do you have a link to a spec for this? Particularly the types of membrane on the top side? I'd imagine that GRP won't stick to the insulation so won't be suitable?
EPDM bonded directly onto PIR insulation with solvent based contact adhesive . Any PIR provided it has no foil backing. Tube fasteners and washers to secure the insulation. I don’t have a lot of experience with GRP but from what I have seen, EPDM is a much better application.
Thanks!