Video

I'm a little ways away from that , melted the pins while testing , also need to sort out a better switch . Maybe a motor with a little less amp draw . I did cut a bunch with it tho before it failed . This is just the first prototype

High pressure water pump

Double helical in fdm style printing leads to excessive friction and premature melting. Youd think theyd be perfect, but good old straight cuts work best with 3d printing.

Those are 2 different types of gears u noted . The herringbone yes is stronger , helical is not stronger directly but applies force more eventually however helical gears cause side load ( thrust load which the bearings are not setup for and will wear as well as force everything to one side ) . Also straight gears are more efficient . I don't really care about sound level , but losing power to friction I do care about .

@turboprint3d Nice thick grease is about the best you can do besides getting your corners really calibrated on your printer and doing fine touch work with a file for hours. The 20$ for the gears you need would probably be a better idea long term, but its still fun to play around with the mechanical principals

@turboprint3d no, they are not two different types. A herringbone is a double helical gear. It's clear you're not as aware as you think you are. Maybe you should revisit your theory.

Don't think the bikes gonna like eating meat ...

@@turboprint3d regarding your health concerns lol

3/16 , the aquarium air line works well

Ya I put a pause on making my own antenna stuff and just purchased a decent upgrade from stock . Then stuck the whole radio up in the air above my house . Now range is great short of the hill and other large buildings

@@turboprint3d Understandable, I was not complaining about your effort, this video just left me with why did you never make a complete ground plane antenna? You are also right about buying. The ones you successfully can make will have low gain still, even when made properly, so buying a professional antenna, with a datasheet from a reputable name, is worth the money.

@@Tore_Lund oh ya the reason , I don't know what I'm doing 😂. I have many skills and experiences ,radios are not one , but I'm working on it .

@@turboprint3d You're right, I had a long passion for homebuilt antennas, before Meshtastic, WiFi, TV, various radio amateur stuff. I find them intriguing: cheap in materials, but a lot of theory to make good ones. When you get to it, antenna theory will be a pleasure.

That depends on a lot of factors , it might work ok at the gearing I'm working with on a gx160 or 200 but I have no way to confirm that . I printed all my parts from Petg . Cf Petg is a little more brittle but much harder and stronger it may be a decent material for the impeller and maybe the gears . In my latest video I tried a draw through system unsuccessful, since then I found that I have too much internal bypass as well as leakage to get a proper vacuum to a carb . I'm currently working on a fuel injection system ( mechanical). Short of waiting for that I guess u could make up your own fuel system or buy or modify a carb for blow through like I did on this setup .

Ya lesson learned , now I just build watertight cases and stick the whole device 30' in the air on a pole , gets me about 4km ish radius

Lol as it runs fine 30 seconds before that , those were shot in the same day . Literally showed the main jet to the camera , I also got the engine because it didn't fit the blower it was on , hand rebuilt the carb just before buddy wanted the proper engine . Also never owned a vintage skidoo eh , gas is not that volatile , only the vapour is , I have ventilation. I grew up fixing small engines and did it professionally on and off as I was the head machinist in a hydraulic / engine shop .

The issue is when u pull too hard on a carb velocity increases to the point where the venturi stopps pulling fuel . Carb too small jets too small

For carb on a draw through , any proper sized carb would work . CV carb might be an interest for driveability if this ever goes on a vehicle . Having the CFM of the engine pumping air would help alot in sizeing all of this . In the video I was just throwing out imidiat thoughts on carbs , doing some quick rough calculations based on pressure and original HP I get something around 7 ish HP so the easiest way to get in the ballpark is grab something adjustable from around the 7/8 HP range . This may or may not work tho but so far in experience has done the trick . I might have settled on a techomse 8 HP carb as it's adjustable on low and high speed circuits about 4 mm larger in diameter . I think the next video might be just trying 3 or 4 carbs I have kicking around . I can make this work with little issue , it's just a matter of how well .this stuff takes a lot out of me tho so I usually cap my videos in a similar length , and is why I don't get too much progress .

I'm thinking a round slide , just for ease of jetting , really considering fuel injection , this would give me the largest adjustability and unlimited fuel headroom as long as my pumps are large enough . Stock carb I used is absolute trash just wanted to see if it would work . If I'd did others would be able to do an easy install. I have a box of old snowblower carbs from 368cc flatheads I could use , they are fully adjustable , as well as some tilitsons around . I have lots of options but I'm leaning into fuel injection . Overall it might be difficult to get a carb to run at idle and handle the increased flow at wot without having a 2 barrel carb ( mix of one larger and one smaller carb linkages together )

Also just though about it , pulse pump is a no go as the blower kinda screws up the normal intake pulses . A standard pump pulse taken from the intake would end up in straight pressure and in turn shutting off all fuel . I'm going to go with an electric pump if the need arises . On the bench I can just put the gas tank higher above the carb if that's one of the options I take .

His carb is probably clogged.

@@ryelor123 i wouldnt be so sure, these engines come jetted lean for emissions purposes so will struggle to keep up under normal conditions.

@@turboprint3d standard pulse hookup is to the crankcase, not the intake. My engine cant rev past 5400 without one but is mostly stock apart from governor removal and jet size.

Its easy to make it fuel injected. with a arduino uno

Thanks , I'm jacked that it works , gotta sort out fueling soon I wanna see it running properly. I had though of EFI , would be relatively easy to get it running with a simple system , I bet I could rig that up the other thought I had was too fuel style mechanical injection, with a low end bypass valve for idling . I gotta calm down a bit then plan my next move . Let me know how it works out , I would love to see people running printed superchargers .

@@turboprint3d thanks for your words. I have a simple code for a arduino.

The only reason I assume cavitation is it didn't seem to be leaking , after more use post video it seems the piston oring distorts at higher speeds as it scrubs the bore ( crank fills with water while external surfaces are dry . At low speeds it works fine , which explains the bubbles . I think there may be some cavitation as there are wear marks on the piston top however that could just as well be from the water eroding the plastic . Overall ya this isn't the best pump but I do have a multi cylinder system that runs way smoother , and would be much less abusive to the system . Either way this does do its job pretty well , but I do plan on doing more water pumps down the road . The real goal is the combined traits of reliability and pumping efficiency , which compared to previous pump designs of mine this design has produced the most pressure on the same or less energy . That being said I also have a list of possible improvements to this pump . Machined piston ( solid nylon, stainless or aluminium) , silicone or other material based orings or other seal design types , better head seal ( if orings fail to hold up) , amount other ideas .

Also no lube on the top side but the bottom end and piston below the oring is lubed with light grease .

That's likely somewhat my fault as I'm somewhat all over the place with projects so the ai has no real idea what to do with my stuff . Glad you found my channel 👍

Angled gears , I would assume to be helical gears , helical gears produce way more thrust load than the beadings in this could handle . The timing belt tho would be a great solution . For video purposes time and money are limiting factors so I just used what I had on hand or could make quickly .

Should be the next video

Thanks if you liked that you should really enjoy this one if you haven't seen it already czcams.com/video/qBoFPKy8fBk/video.htmlsi=9XQN8cOqFMCc79EN

Part 2 is yet to happen , it will but I'm not sure when

Thanks , and that's great to hear , I would say inspiring others to create things is the best result one could ask for when doing stuff like this . I'd be interested in working on something at some point for sure . If u wanna stay in communication how would u like to do so ?

For this , I already had the gearbox , but in general it's a self contained , usually water-resistant , cheap , efficient, and reliable motor for some applications . The original source for the fan gearbox designs was an icecream maker , which I have somewhat refined into a working device but it needs more refinement if I want to share the files . I also enjoy working within constraints , breeds better innovation .

Thanks , and that lag on startup is the valve sticking to the inlet for some reason causing a vacuum for the first few cycles till it starts up . This is the only one that does this and it's likely because I was using it to pump smoke from a laser engraver as a test and everything has a layer of tar like substance on it .

czcams.com/video/FkUp95BT8sE/video.htmlsi=lggRrtvDnSUr2gUy. Linked in the description

Fusion 360 and sometimes I'll toss an unfinished part from fusion over to blender to modify the mesh but that's just for more artistic stuff .

@@turboprint3d Thank you for your answer. Interestingly, I'm printing out your model right now. Helix has completed its 1st lap, I have enlarged the model 1.5 times and each lap takes less than half an hour without support.

so I shelved this idea for one with less moving parts less relying on plastic gears to keep timing . With the volume of air im looking for 20-50 cfm at 3-6 psi , it would either have to be huge and slow or small and fast , the issue is roots blowers have to have clearance to work , that being said there will always be some bypass . cheap printers being what they are its too hard to get tolerances as tight as required without machining , and with all the interlocking rotating parts reliability would be rather low , as shown in the next unit I made . normally roots blowers have a minimum rpm of 500-1000 in industry and have about 0.005" clearance lobe to lobe and about 0.003" lobe to housing . because im doing all of this from plastic the roots blower ends up being a bad design for the material . for a decent slow moving pump with high volume I would end up with more from an enlarged vane blower . It would be doable just found a different path , I will likely come back to this idea but its likely gonna be completely machined as a usable product , I will be using 3d printing for this tho in the casting of the parts over billet parts cus I'm broke lol

@@turboprint3d Thanks for the reply. I have been looking for a small, quiet vacuum pump or much larger high pressure (for air tools) that is also quiet. Existing ones are very noisy. Vane type are quiet, but limited in range. Pump (cylinders) are noisy largely because of the burst of compressed air followed by a pause for next stroke. The piston style with diaphragm seems to be best for these purposes, then I realized that maybe it is not so much the fact that it is piston design, but timing. A 3 cylinder diaphragm pump with 120° phasing and careful attention to equal air flow distribution might achieve my goals. However I do not have the resources you have.

@@royh6526 if sound is the concern , I would suggest a very large oring sealed piston pump runing slowly ( less than 100rpm) some guy made a huge water pump powered hydraulic piston pump . It's like 3' x1' and cycles once every 45seconds but moves something like 1000+ CFM to cool a computer and completely silent other than the water pump which was a standard PC cooling pump . It was also double acting so it pumped in both directions . Something closer to that might be an idea . That guy's goal was quiet and lots of air , unfortunately I cannot remember who it was and it was a while ago when I saw it . I'll see if I can dig it up and post it on a reply

@@turboprint3d Thanks for the response, but I am well aware of that approach, but small and cheap is also a goal.

having seals that interfere would be difficult and ad to the heat generated greatly , as well as the small point where they would switch from lob to housing would likely take alot of design and refinement . In industry the roots blower always has clearance and interference will destroy the pump with the harmonic pulse from vibration as well as make alot of heat .

www.thingiverse.com/thing:5536789 its not exactly the same but its a slightly more refined version . I eventually will have a finished design for this that i intend to share .

I'm glad you enjoyed it , ya I have herd some interesting things , but I guess what I saw while out was rather common .

your welcome , I have been told its likely by a doctor , and that's about all there interested in saying on the subject. I don't have an issue with people , but large groups , or events like a hockey game or concert is hard for me to deal with as my mind will automatically follow all the conversations in ear shot . so i prefer to interact with people in small numbers in rather quiet . another strange thing my brain dose as an example : I have chickens , we buy them layer food and I didn't understand why it was named that way until the lady at the store pronounced it lay- er over me thinking it way like layers of nutrients or something . basically i can be extremely smart and capable in one area and be completely unable to do other things . It really was just noted to kind-of explain why I may be erratic in what i do and how I explain it from time to time . I do work on all of this to improve but I'm never sure how others hear my stuff , and that leaves so many options and questions so theirs that . I also try not to ramble on or get off topic forever on boring things no one cares about , like the above , either way I'm glad you enjoy my work .

thanks , this gives me an even better idea , I think the wife has a smoke machine somewhere