4560 Roots Blower Engine Testing
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- čas přidán 29. 01. 2024
- new supercharger design bolted to a gx200 clone and running on boost .
notes:
engine gx200clone
too cold to read rpm reliably , max supercharger rpm between 6000-7000 rpm.
4560 = size of the rotors/ housing in mm 45mm dia x 60mm
uses strait rotors I have twist rotors that still need to be tested .
this supercharger comes in 3 sized 60mm, 80mm ,and 120mm long
all parts are press fit or press and locked with a m4 cross bolt through the shaft / tubing .
gasket used for shim and sealing on rotor housing , all other mating surfaces can be silicone ( be careful not to get any in the rotor housing)
twitter : @turboprint3d
files: www.thingiverse.com/thing:645... - Věda a technologie
Great video my dude!
dude, i love it, im making my v2 soon, i will let you know how it goes, how is your health going?
Well done sir!! i go to try it with my two stroke opposed engine..
Its easy to make it fuel injected. with a arduino uno
Thanks , I'm jacked that it works , gotta sort out fueling soon I wanna see it running properly. I had though of EFI , would be relatively easy to get it running with a simple system , I bet I could rig that up the other thought I had was too fuel style mechanical injection, with a low end bypass valve for idling . I gotta calm down a bit then plan my next move . Let me know how it works out , I would love to see people running printed superchargers .
@@turboprint3d thanks for your words. I have a simple code for a arduino.
Seems pressure would be lost a bit on the small diameter tube u got going to the intake. Looks kinda small..
I would try to measure CFM / RPM, boost is resistance, and your focus is to move more volume of air, and preferably more than the engine pulls in, set up a way to measure the intake air flow with a CFM gauge and a big tube over the carb, then do the same for your output. Not too knowledgeable on carbs, but I think a CV carb is what you want, I will probably be completely wrong but iirc they pull fuel relative to air flow, which might compensate for boost? Should do more research
For carb on a draw through , any proper sized carb would work . CV carb might be an interest for driveability if this ever goes on a vehicle . Having the CFM of the engine pumping air would help alot in sizeing all of this . In the video I was just throwing out imidiat thoughts on carbs , doing some quick rough calculations based on pressure and original HP I get something around 7 ish HP so the easiest way to get in the ballpark is grab something adjustable from around the 7/8 HP range . This may or may not work tho but so far in experience has done the trick . I might have settled on a techomse 8 HP carb as it's adjustable on low and high speed circuits about 4 mm larger in diameter . I think the next video might be just trying 3 or 4 carbs I have kicking around . I can make this work with little issue , it's just a matter of how well .this stuff takes a lot out of me tho so I usually cap my videos in a similar length , and is why I don't get too much progress .
why not twin screw supercharger? its more efficient
id try and gx270/390 carb with a larger jet, also look into modifying the plastic idle jet as itd be something special if you could pull this off using parts from the GX family. You might also want to try adding a pulse fuel pump as my gx200 cant even rev up to valve float without one.
I'm thinking a round slide , just for ease of jetting , really considering fuel injection , this would give me the largest adjustability and unlimited fuel headroom as long as my pumps are large enough . Stock carb I used is absolute trash just wanted to see if it would work . If I'd did others would be able to do an easy install. I have a box of old snowblower carbs from 368cc flatheads I could use , they are fully adjustable , as well as some tilitsons around . I have lots of options but I'm leaning into fuel injection . Overall it might be difficult to get a carb to run at idle and handle the increased flow at wot without having a 2 barrel carb ( mix of one larger and one smaller carb linkages together )
Also just though about it , pulse pump is a no go as the blower kinda screws up the normal intake pulses . A standard pump pulse taken from the intake would end up in straight pressure and in turn shutting off all fuel . I'm going to go with an electric pump if the need arises . On the bench I can just put the gas tank higher above the carb if that's one of the options I take .
His carb is probably clogged.
@@ryelor123 i wouldnt be so sure, these engines come jetted lean for emissions purposes so will struggle to keep up under normal conditions.
@@turboprint3d standard pulse hookup is to the crankcase, not the intake. My engine cant rev past 5400 without one but is mostly stock apart from governor removal and jet size.
I'm a very reckless person but even I find that gasoline setup dangerous. Hope you have a few fire extinguishers. Anyway, I bet the holes in the carburetor are clogged. Common problem and easy to solve. Its obvious that you didn't remove the bowl. That's usually why they don't deliver fuel and the main reason why you can buy cheap mowers, chippers, and other engined stuff on craigslist.
Lol as it runs fine 30 seconds before that , those were shot in the same day . Literally showed the main jet to the camera , I also got the engine because it didn't fit the blower it was on , hand rebuilt the carb just before buddy wanted the proper engine . Also never owned a vintage skidoo eh , gas is not that volatile , only the vapour is , I have ventilation. I grew up fixing small engines and did it professionally on and off as I was the head machinist in a hydraulic / engine shop .
The issue is when u pull too hard on a carb velocity increases to the point where the venturi stopps pulling fuel . Carb too small jets too small
Please fix the hole in your coke bottle. I can smell all that lost gas.
I think you're doing great other than that. 🤞