Video

I don't know the fuse, and I would assume there's no direct fuse just for that. It would possibly be integrated with many other things that you wouldn't want to disable. However, that's even more work than just unplugging the unit. The easiest way to keep this open is to unplug the little unit in the trunk. It's in the driver's side back panel (opposite of the battery) down by the tail light. It has a vacuum line connected to it. Just unclip that plug and it will default open (or at least mine does). You can also use the app Bimmerlink to just toggle it open via app.

@@fixitcolton i appreciate it, imma give it a try and will get back to you for sure 👍

Happy it helped! Have a great week 🙃

Hey, thanks! Have an awesome week 🙃

I believe it's all E90 series, yes. Here is the full video: czcams.com/video/XZ3ABeNICPg/video.html Here is the link from the video: avinusa.com/12-3-inch-multimedia-navigation-system-for-bmw-3-series-e90-e91-e92-e93-nid.html There's one for BMW's with the iDrive system as well. Cheers 🙃

@@fixitcolton Cheers

I'm really not sure. It could be a coincidence and another component is on the way out. Did you install a new thermostat? If so, was it the same specs as the old one? Was the adjustment done correctly with the knob? If it's an old thermostat, it could just be age and shifting parameters that caused it to act up. Was it a one time event or does it continue on running hotter than it did? It's hard to guess with limited info.

Ah, so glad to help you out! It's definitely a unique and complex undertaking. I wish you luck on your project. Let me know if I can help out with info. This is years old now, but most of my memory is still there with it 🤣 Cheers

Thanks so much! I'm glad it helped out. It was an old video, but it's useful lol. I did have a similar issue... I'm trying to remember. I think the way it's wired is that the balance/fader remains useless. All speakers are running through the front L/R channels only, but all speakers are working. Check 23:15 in the video. It kind of touches on this, but it isn't vividly clear. If I remember more, I'll update. It is possible that you missed something in the wiring too, but this issue sounds like the bit of confusion I had, even though it was correct. Good luck

Thanks so much! That's probably the nicest comment I've ever had, lol. Yea, some of these videos are older, but I worked hard on them 🤣. I appreciate the kind words, and I'm glad it helped. I wish you luck on yours. Have an awesome week 🙃

@@fixitcolton Hope the Channel blow mate

That's a decision that depends on how much work someone wants to do, right? Lol... I think that if it's significantly more work for you, you could hardwire it. I'm assuming you will match or exceed the gauge wire needed to be safe, or that the circuit already supports it, etc. Personally, I'd probably install the outlet because then you could swap anything in there when, or if, you need to. Of course, I don't know the whole scenario, the age, the system. But then again, if you know you'll never use that outlet for anything and have an abundance of them already, just hardwire it with the proper connectors and save yourself the hassle.

@@fixitcolton thanks for the response! I think I'm gonna go the outlet route. I appreciate your time and information

No worries, have a great weekend, and good luck! 🙃

Hey, thanks for the support. The lights themselves are good inside. I would note to REALLY solidify the eyelids, if you do them inside. I had one slightly shift because I didn't use enough sealant. It's not enough to bother me yet. This video is actually a few years old, so they held up well in general. The UV coat deteriorates after 1-2 years, but you only need to recoat it. You could do something more permanent though. You could clear coat them with paint as well. I've recoated my headlights once in a few years. I do need to do it again soon though. I can see spots where it's coming off. Hope that helps you, cheers

@@fixitcolton thanks man! much appreciated

If you have some questions, just post them up here. I don't know how much direct help I can be since this video is years old. I will try to remember what I can.

@@fixitcolton What happens is that I connect the cables as they are in the video and the LED turns on but after a few seconds it turns off and so all the time

What LED? You have to be more specific. Also, what kind of specs or functions do the LED's installed have?

@@fixitcolton It's the rgb demon's eye led that you put in the description of the video I don't know about the functions

@@fixitcolton Angel's eyes I had to buy some different ones since the ones you put in the description no longer sold them, which have a relay where they have the connections for angel's eyes and angel's eyes and their relay I connected it to the rl45 relay, with rs40 socket that you used in the video, the directional ones I did not modify them I will leave them as they are And my other question is once I connect everything in this light (I'm doing the left light, on the pilot's side),I'll have to remove the light from angel oem's eye and put the new

Yea, it's the ground. It sounds like a wire is loose and causing incorrect flow somewhere. Make sure that ground is secured down, and try and find a hot wire that is touching casing/metal, etc.

I believe in this video I had the HKS Sequential on. That one can get old though. I now have the Greddy Type-S again.

Aw man... that's rough. I know exactly what you mean about not seeing properly. That's why I spent 15 minutes trying to thread that hidden downstream one because I KNEW the resistance couldn't be normal, even though it really looked straight in from my obscure angle. Did you have more trouble with the upper ones or lower ones?

@@fixitcolton yhea haha, i wish they were place somewhere easier, after both o2 hole were rethreaded with a thread chaser and with new o2, everything was super easy. However while doing this o2 stuff, my valve cover (gasket?) decided to fail, got a new aluminium one ill have to installl someday

It's amazing how one mis-threaded/broken bolt or part can screw up your whole day, lol... I know it all too well. Good luck with the valve cover. This is an old video of mine, but maybe this VCG tutorial will help: czcams.com/video/fgyVOJ_tYrk/video.html Have a good rest of your week 🙃

@@fixitcolton yes haha, i was working on my sister fiat 500 for over 5 hours because of a broken lug bolt.. ended up changing the knuckle completly. Ill take a look at your video when i got some time! ive done it a few times but its always good to get new tips, Enjoy the rest of your week too !

I did, but it wasn't too bad. Here is the entire tutorial, step by step: czcams.com/video/XZ3ABeNICPg/video.html The only way to do that is to permanently mount something on a spot that can be replaced, like a trim panel. There are 10" units, but they are slow compared to this one. I have some in other cars that are good enough, but they don't look factory like this.

Thanks so much! I'm glad it helped 🙃

Pre-LCI 335i E92

Yea, I believe that as long as it's DDR4, you're good. The MHz should just match. You may also want to pay attention to the clock cycle on the RAM, sometimes you can do better there. You can search your mother board and see what the max specs. Good luck 🙃

Yea, it's not always identical. There are different types of O2 sensors as well. This won't work for everything. You can try to source your OEM wiring schematic for your O2 sensor and then match up the wire types on the universal one.

You're welcome! Yea, it's tough to buy stuff sometimes. Maybe eBay?

.. wait. are americans now calling intakes, inlets 😂🤣😅 ... americans and their crazy language

It's all part of the air intake tract, but inlets are what we are paraphrasing as the part that connects to the turbo compressor housing entrance.

@@fixitcolton silicone/rubber hose from turbo to intake? (other wise known as intake pipes)

What clip are you referring to? There is a screw you have to full loosen to slide it up.

Glad it helped! 🙃

I wonder the same thing. It actually pulls itself down and puts stress at the fender, lol. I bought a new fender bracket to pull it up, but I have never it on. The good news is that I hardly notice it anymore.

@@fixitcolton What is that ?

It's the black odd shaped bracket that holds the bumper to the fender on the sides of the car, near the tire. This is the left (driver's side US): amzn.to/3uWrH5d and this is the right (passenger side US): amzn.to/3SNwBJG

Thank you! I'm glad it helped 🙃

Hey, thanks! It is definitely not too big. Surprisingly, I don't have that perspective, lol... I guess I could try to do a short in the upcoming week month. I will try to remember when I'm with that car next. I'm actually doing something else like this in one of my other cars, and I'm wishing that it was this 12.3" size because anything else seems so small now. It's pretty much a perfect dimension, in my opinion. Because it's rectangular and not square, it is much more subtle than you'd think. The unit below is never touched anymore, but I use it for gauges 🤣

@@fixitcolton Gotcha, a short would be super awesome! I'm struggling to decide if I want to go with the 12.3 or the 10.5 haha

I will try to get to my 335i this weekend and take a quick short. Are you also putting it in an E90 series? If so, the 10.5" (at least the ones I've seen) will sit further back and be recessed a bit. It will be smaller and further back. It may cause reach issues and impact driving safety. This one sits in front of the dash and much closer. This also creates less viewing blockage. You don't have to struggle to see text or reach to input things, such as quick replies on Android Auto. This was also a large reason I got the 12.3", so you may want to check exactly where the 10" will align on the dash with its custom mounting bracket.

I posted a full guide. The long video included all the attempted shortcuts people would take and resulting outcomes so they may choose to avoid trying that method and possibly save themselves time… “the hassle.” It’s an old video, and it's the best I could do at that time, but at least it helps a little, lol.

Bro I’m just saying that rear inlet is fucking brutal, I was doing the job while I wrote that lol sorry.

No worries, my mistake for misunderstanding, lol. I also fully understand the urge to talk about how bad it is while doing it. Yes, putting in the rear one is absolute torture 🤣 but it sounds like you got it finally. Once it's in, you get to look forward to never doing it again 🙃

🤣 I know your pain. I tried to throw in minor details because sometimes that one screw or bracket can mess up your whole day, lol. Thanks for watching, have a great rest of your week 🙃

I'm not sure I'm following you. I'm assuming you're talking about the iDrive controller? You purchased the unit for your car and the controller accessory, but the shape of the iDrive controller, that is mounted in the center arm rest area, doesn't line up? If you bought it from AvinUSA, they list exactly which models they support. Even within the E90 series, they have multiple models. If you have the OEM iDrive navigation system or do not is possibly what you're referring to, but you're going to have to clarify and be more specific. In a nutshell, if your controller doesn't fit... you probably cannot, or wouldn't want, to use it, lol. You can always try and figure out some solution, but it probably won't look good. I would source the right parts for your build. On a final note, if the iDrive controller is what you're referring to, and it is BARELY off in fitment, then you simply have to contact them and swap the plate. I had an issue where the year of the E90 car affected which little insert size worked. If it looks like it lines up, but it's just not going to squeeze in by a fraction of an inch, then you need to ask them for a different plate. I swapped out my plate by the 4 screws under the controller. They should send it based on your exact year.

Lol, I did both of those in this video. I wasted WAY too much time trying to fit it in that way in order to help other folks that may want to shortcut it. Ultimately, dropping the engine was night and day faster, easier, and less stress. I should've done it from the start and saved a few hours. That is why I finalized with that. The fact of the matter is that some people's cars have the clearance, others' do not. My firewall is closer than others I've seen with the same car. I don't know if it's based on month/year, QC, newer parts (new engine mounts I had), or what, but it is. Some may have more room to work with, and they can go that route. That's why I did multiple methods and left the failed attempts in there, for reference and ideas. So, it's cool you can, but there was no way on mine. Maybe other people can skip lowering it too. It's trial and error.

They V2 refined the way the flange (the end plates) connect to the pipe to get better flow. They also added the "VRSF" logo, I believe. They may be a slightly different exterior finish than the originals. They apparently bent them a little different to get better clearance as well. In reality, it's just a pipe, lol. If you can get V1 or V2, it's probably good, and you won't notice any hp gains that you can feel (unless you're massively built and hitting extreme boost, maybe). The only thing that may be questionable is if you find a second hand V1 and it had bad quality control and didn't line up. I've heard of that happening in various brands. So, it may be best to just pickup the V2 new.

@@fixitcoltonthanks 😊

You're welcome, good luck with it 🙃

Wow, that's interesting. Thanks for the info!

@@fixitcolton 👍each cars interior is made from one piece of veneer And as it is natural wood, no two cars will be identical😳 so a nightmare if you need to replace any one piece as it will not match🙄 Source: Lexus The Relentless Pursuit. Publisher: John Wiley & Sons Inc, United States.

Now it almost seems a shame to cover it up, lol. At least vinyl is removeable.

All the Spectre models may use different RAM depending on generation. This particular series (models 15-ch000 - 15-ch099 or 15-ch0xx) uses Samsung 8GBx2 (16GB) DDR4. You can upgrade it to 16GBx2 (32GB). This kit is probably the best one that will work inside this PC. amzn.to/47q7GBo

Thank you, I appreciate it. I'm trying to remember, lol... I'll do my best. There are 2 yellow wires. You may have wired the pin #3 to the angel eye positive. You want to wire pin #1 yellow to this (as it's the constant). The white pin #12 from the headlight wires is for the turn signal input on the angle eye. The brown pin #4 is the ground to the negative on the angel eye. I also had to wire inline resistors because my angel eyes were flashing very quickly. If you didn't do that, maybe there's a problem there. These cars tend to sense low resistance as no bulb or burned out, and then shut off power. For example, swapping the interior dome light to an LED will allow it to work for 20 seconds, but then it will shut off because the car senses no resistance and thinks it's an error. I've even coded in the LED functions and used CANBUS bulbs, but it still persists 🤣 I'm assuming you left access to the wires from the top. I would pull the power wire and bench test it on a 12V battery. I'll bet they function fine because it's unlikely both burned out, unless you shorted something or pinched a wire, or have an open wire that happened to rub on something while moving. One other thing, these headlights have overheated brittle wiring where the sheaths may crumble over time. It's possible that by working in there, you opened a wire up to shorting. You can use a multimeter or test light to try and trace continuity and voltage back through the wires involved. Additionally, I'd check the fuses for the headlights. If you popped a fuse (assuming there's a direct one for the halos) then it's likely you have an open wire somewhere. Good luck

Some Amazon links go dead. I'll post another, sorry. I believe these are the ones I bought. amzn.to/41xbuiR They say "H11" so I'm assuming they default to H11A. I'm not in town, and I cannot verify with the car. Hope this works out for you. If not, I can possibly check in the new year.

Oh, thanks! Yea, panels can be a pain to remove and avoid damage, lol. This car is not as bad as some, but hopefully you can touch it up a bit or it doesn't show too much. Have a great rest of your day 🙃

It has been a while since I've touched that car, lol. I'll do my best off memory. I believe that the solid red indicates you're on a path to resetting the button. When the button (1 for example) is pressed, it should flash quickly to indicate that it's sending the signal to open the garage. If you continue to hold it past that, it will turn solid red. If you continue holding it when solid red, it will reset that button to be unlinked and free to setup again. This is the singular button reset method. I would reset the entire unit again (All 3 buttons). Start with holding 1 + 3 and go from the beginning of the video. Additionally, there may be two other possibilities: The unit could possibly be defective... it is older. Some people have this issue where the button works, it's programmed, and it opens most of the time. However, it will then stop working and stay solid red. That could be a defective board inside. The other possibility is that the garage door opener is too modern. A lot of pre-2013 vehicles (an average) have a different mechanism in the garage door openers. I have had a newer garage door opener that wouldn't sync either. I had to buy a special conversion unit for it in order to send an older opener signal to my other 2012 car. I used this amzn.to/47Zfhb4 but keep in mind that each garage door has its own dedicated kit (if this is the issue). I hope that helps. 🙃

Hey, on my particular setup, I put the lower unit on aux mode. It actually wakes into aux mode by default. If you're running a lower unit that's Android, and it doesn't do this, you can use MacroDroid App to do some simple trigger/action protocol to accomplish this as well. My lower unit runs in aux mode in the background. I use it for gauges in the foreground. On the OEM unit, you would still do the same, but I cannot recall (it's been so long) how to switch the lower unit into aux mode or if it's automatic. You control the music and Android Auto from the 12.3" screen above. You change tracks, etc. My lower screen also has the ability to act as its own Android Auto unit, but I never use it due to location and the top one being so much better, lol. Granted, they're independent of each other. Ultimately, the lower unit is just acting as a sound processor or pre-amp to connect your 12.3" source to the speakers, and it ONLY controls the volume. I have no control over the music tracks from the lower unit interface. Note that you can control eq from the lower unit, but most people recommend setting this from the sound processor or amps directly. My upper unit (12.3") isn't wired into any speakers or amps. I also don't control any EQ from it (though you could). It's a flat/neutral audio channel that feeds into the lower unit via a 3.5mm jack. The lower unit is wired into a JBL MS-8 (I have a #short video showing this czcams.com/users/shortsiagUhLcOrrE ). That sound processor (in my trunk) runs to all the speakers. It also has a built in amp if I chose to go that route. Depending on your build (or car), you may have an amp in the trunk, or your lower radio may be your amp. If your lower head unit is running the power directly to the speakers, make sure anything you replace it with has built in amplification as well. This 12.3" does not, and it is built to hook right into your OEM system and use the stock amp to power the speakers. Hope that helps 🙃

Okay then your lower unit is automatically in aux and that's why the upper unit plays the sound. By saying that it runs in the background, you mean that it is not seen on the screen of the lower unit, which is in aux mode, so ugly, right? So I have the upper unit, if I mount the lower one that replaces the original radio and acts as an amplifier, would that be enough? Or would I have to install something else? Thanks for your help man, I'm quite confused and your help helps me a lot.

Yea, it's not seen... it is ugly 🤣 Theoretically, yes. Most of these Android units are meant to be plug and play. Let me know me what car you have, I'm assuming an E90? I'm assuming it didn't come with iDrive and navigation? Also, what tier system do you have? The Logic 7 system will need an adapter to the optical on the lower unit, and you'll lose the center channel (If I remember right). If you have Hifi/Premium, or Base model system, you won't need to do anything else. That Eonon brand is good for the specific E90 stereos, it may be a safer bet to get the package built for the car. They will sell adapters for optical.

Yo no tengo instalado nada de sistema de audio tiene el de origen y yo lo único que quiero es poner la pantalla inferior y la superior y que suene la música de la superior

Ok, todo lo que tienes que hacer es conectar el superior al puerto auxiliar del auto en el reposabrazos.

You're welcome, I'm glad it helped! 🙃

The red in the lights is from the RGB LED behind the projector lens. I installed it in the video.

Hey, this video is a good reference to install this. I'm not sure what else you're looking for. You can turn on "cc" to view the subtitles. Then, go to the settings menu, select "subtitles," and choose "auto translate" to select Dutch, German, or whichever language, if that's any easier for you. If you have specific questions, you can reply here, and I will do my best to answer them.

Yea, that's a good idea. This car is so dramatically simple to loosen the belt that I probably didn't think twice about that, 🤣, it's a really old video. Thanks for sharing, and hopefully others will consider doing this.

Hey, yes I did. It's still quite a bit sharper than most generic backup cameras. It requires splicing to get it to function.

Glad it helped someone 🙃

They're good. I've had no issues at all, not even a pop off lol. They were pretty heavy duty quality when I installed them, so I wasn't too worried. However, if you don't secure the front one, some people have theirs get eaten up by the pulley.

It could be a number of things. You really need to provide more detail to speculate. If your compressor is turning, running for a sufficient amount of time, and running frequently, then check other things. Although, It could be that your thermostat is not regulating the cycles correctly anymore. Evaporator coils could be iced over causing insufficient cooling capabilities, etc. Unplugging it and letting it thaw for 1-2 days, cleaning what you can visibly see, and then checking to see if the compressor is turning on, running in decent intervals, and doesn't sound broken or struggling could be a start. You can grab a $5 multimeter and try testing the little components in the video. Each scenario will be different, good luck.