BMW N54 335i INLETS INSTALLATION FULL TUTORIAL AND DIY WITH SHORTCUTS, STEPS, AND TOOLS 135i/535i/Z4
Vložit
- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- Follow me as I install the VRSF 1.75” OEM location inlets on my 335i. This is the ultimate guide. Learn all the steps to DIY. See which shortcuts ACTUALLY work. Get one step closer to full bolt on status. Pair this with my downpipe video • BMW N54 DOWNPIPES INST... and add some serious power to the car. The process is tedious, but the gains are worth it. Check out the clips at the end for more results. Good luck!
SUBSCRIBE for more to come. Thank you for the support! 🙃
Update | Review Video: • BMW Downpipe & Inlet |...
Rapid 10 minute inlet installation guide: • BMW N54 - QUICK 10 MIN...
Rapid 5 minute downpipe installation guide: • N54 BMW 5 MINUTE DOWNP...
TOOLS I USED: Decent Affordable Options
Engine Support Bar: amzn.to/3vQgiB0
OR, Engine Hoist (buy locally, much more expensive)
Milwaukee Fuel Hackzall Kit (pricey, but the best tools out there): amzn.to/3jVjw3h
OR, Budget Reciprocating Saw: amzn.to/3QzqCaa (note: there's a $30 at Harbor Freight)
METRIC SOCKET SET IS GOOD TO HAVE (BASIC MEDIUM SIZED) 8MM-19MM - amzn.to/3AbKRDG
E TORX SOCKET SET (BASIC SIZES) E10, E12 used (An awesome cheap Etorx set that I’ve used forever) - amzn.to/3AeGjMO
TORQUE WRENCH 3/8” - amzn.to/3hAUEN3
3/8” SWIVEL JOINT (POSSIBLY) - amzn.to/3O8t4Tv
3” Worm/Hose Clamp - amzn.to/3ZsBzOv
Long reach needle nose pliers: amzn.to/3vYyTdW
OR, a set (but quality may be lower): amzn.to/3W0VpxB
3/8” or ½” BREAKER BAR (IF YOU DON’T HAVE AN IMPACT GUN) - amzn.to/3g3H7NP
PARTS I ORDERED:
VRSF 1.75” OEM Location Inlets: $225
More BMW Videos:
How to Change the Pulleys and Replace the Belt: • How to Change the Pull...
How to Change the Valve Cover Gasket and PCV Valve: • How To Replace Your Va...
Install a 12.3” Android/Apple In-dash Multimedia System DIY: • BMW ANDROID 12.3" MULT...
Review and Walkthrough of AvinUSA 12.3” Multimedia System: • Review of the BMW 12.3...
How to Replace Your Windshield Trim/Seal: • WINDSHIELD MOLDING/SEA...
How to Replace Your Ashtray w/ Sunglasses Holder and New Plug: • BMW E90 335i 328i Asht...
How to Replace Your Headlight Bulbs: • BMW Headlight Bulb Rep...
How to Replace Your Headlight Bulbs Rapid 1 min Guide: • Change Your BMW's Head...
Top 5 Safety Equipment Items for BMW Drivers: • BMW OWNERS | TOP 5 SAF...
335i Logic 7 Sound System Upgrades Overview: • BMW Upgraded Surround ...
NOTE: The WRENCH and CLOCK icons at the beginning title are part of a RATING SYSTEM that I created. The chart/diagram is at the very end of the video. You can assess my builds and repairs by this chart. It is used to scale the time and level of expertise required for each project that I upload. It is a rough estimate and based on what I’d consider averages.
Therefore, some may do it much faster, or slower.
Check it out, I hope it helps!
THIS VIDEO IS FOR THE N54 ENGINE WHICH COVERS THESE VEHICLES:
2006-2010 BMW E90/E91/E92/E93 335i 2007-2010 BMW E60/E61 535i 2007-2010 BMW E82/E88 135i 2007-2010 Alpina B3 2008-2010 BMW E71 X6 xDrive35i 2008-2012 BMW F01 740i 2009-2016 BMW E89 Z4 sDrive35i 2010-2013 BMW E92/E93 335is 2010-2013 Alpina B3 S 2011-2012 BMW E82 1-series M-Coupe 2011-2016 BMW E89 Z4 sDrive35is 2012-2013 Alpina B3 GT3
CHAPTERS:
0:00 What to expect
0:45 The “shortcuts” explained and Shortcut #1
1:15 Step 1, Step 2, Step 3 - Remove the cowl, panels, snorkel, brake booster line
2:03 Step 4 - Remove intake filters/box
2:59 Shortcut #2 and #3
3:38 Step 5 - Remove the engine cover
4:08 Step 6, Step 7 - Remove the PCV hose sensor and tube
5:14 Step 8 - Remove the rear inlet bolts (and tools used)
7:46 Step 9 - Remove the radiator fan (and maintenance tips)
10:29 Step 10 - Remove the charge pipe
11:17 Step 11 - Remove the front inlet bolts and inlet
11:51 Shortcut #4
13:57 OEM vs VRSF Inlet Comparison (and parts included)
15:43 Step 12 - Installing the new front inlet and orientation
20:33 Moving under the car and tools used to cut
21:05 Tip to LOWER THE SUBFRAME and ENGINE BEFORE YOU START
21:35 Step 13 - Cut the rear inlet in half
22:35 Step 14 - Pull out the rear inlet
23:23 Step 15 - Remove or bend the inlet bracket
24:04 Shortcut #5
26:28 Failed attempts to install rear inlet without lowering the engine (shortcut #6)
28:33 Step 16, Step 17 - Support engine/subframe and disconnect upper intercooler pipes
29:08 Step 18 - Unplug headlight sensor
29:38 Step 19 - Remove subframe bolts
30:20 Step 20 - Install the rear inlet (with tips for orientation)
34:04 Step 21 - Positioning the rear inlet correctly
35:55 Step 22 - Reinstall components in reverse order
38:27 Step 23 - Securing the front inlet (best method)
41:58 Results - Sound clips from all perspectives
45:11 Final thoughts
47:16 Difficulty Chart - Auta a dopravní prostředky
i never subs or comment or like, but BRO HOW A GUY WITH 400 subs can do a video with that QUALITY OF WORK ! insane bro, thanks for the help.I will go on the VTT 2inch i hope they will go in there lmao.thank,s mate
Thanks so much! That's probably the nicest comment I've ever had, lol. Yea, some of these videos are older, but I worked hard on them 🤣. I appreciate the kind words, and I'm glad it helped. I wish you luck on yours. Have an awesome week 🙃
@@fixitcolton Hope the Channel blow mate
You made me relive my nightmare 😂
Good Job, wish this was up when I did mine.
Watched a few vids at the time however yours included tiny important details others did not mention eg: that evil little bracket near the rear turbo.
🤣 I know your pain. I tried to throw in minor details because sometimes that one screw or bracket can mess up your whole day, lol. Thanks for watching, have a great rest of your week 🙃
I did installed rear ones without dropping subframe
Yea, I've heard the distance of firewall to block is different on some builds. I REALLY wanted to prove that it could work, but it was going to waste an entire day if I didn't just drop the engine (which made it 100 times easier). My car was so close that even with the space, it was difficult to put the pipe flush on the turbo. This is why I recommend lowering it a bit for the majority of folks. The cost incurred would be less than $100, probably less than $50 locally sourced. They would have a new tool (engine hoist). Mostly though, they'll speed through the process and relax instead of struggle.
Bro , does this inlets mod made your low end torque better or worse ?
It's definitely better, no question. It's not debatable like exhaust or charged piping diameter. It's 100% gains in every aspect without any loss or trade-offs. It's definitely worth the price, especially paired with DP's. 🙃
@@fixitcolton Thanks for the reply , i am gonna get this mod done on my car ASAP :)
Yeah, no worries. It's a pretty affordable mod. It's just tedious. If you're really tight on cash, you MAY be able to get by without dropping the engine. If you can though, just do it from the start and make your life so much easier, lol. Good luck!
Is that a turbosmart bov?
I believe in this video I had the HKS Sequential on. That one can get old though. I now have the Greddy Type-S again.
Why didn’t you lube up the rear inlet with vaseline and bend that bracket forward towards the motor that the old inlet sat infront of, there’s no way you couldn’t get a smaller silicone tube down the back of the motor I know for a fact you can install these without dropping the cradle
Lol, I did both of those in this video. I wasted WAY too much time trying to fit it in that way in order to help other folks that may want to shortcut it. Ultimately, dropping the engine was night and day faster, easier, and less stress. I should've done it from the start and saved a few hours. That is why I finalized with that.
The fact of the matter is that some people's cars have the clearance, others' do not. My firewall is closer than others I've seen with the same car. I don't know if it's based on month/year, QC, newer parts (new engine mounts I had), or what, but it is. Some may have more room to work with, and they can go that route. That's why I did multiple methods and left the failed attempts in there, for reference and ideas. So, it's cool you can, but there was no way on mine. Maybe other people can skip lowering it too. It's trial and error.
Why 1.75" and not 2"?
I asked the same thing initially. I was going to go for the full 2, but I'm so glad I did not. It is insane how little room is actually back there when you do this, lol! There is only one reason to go with 2, and that is if you plan on upgrading your turbos in the future. I do not plan on putting larger turbos on this car, so I did not. If you use the 2 on this car with stock turbos, you'll need a small silicone adapter to place inside each tube. There is barely any room to work under there, and it's hard enough to slip on the 1.75" without issue. Also, the tip is just the 1.75" or 2". The inlets widen to 2" or more on both models. Majority of the inlet will be identical between the two models. The only difference is that the 2" will have a larger opening on the tip to house the larger compressor housing on the turbo. That's just my 2 cents, but hands down I would go with the 1.75. Good luck with yours.
@@fixitcolton gotcha! But going with relocated ones shouldnt be a big issue I hope.
Ah, yea... that may be a bit easier.