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Glad to hear it, let me know if you have any questions!

Thank you very much, and let me know if you have any questions!

Indeed, Rick! Right back at you regarding inspiration! 😉

​Ha!

Thank you kindly! May that long continue!

Jaja, muchas gracias, tocayo. Ahora estoy de vacaciones en Asturias, pero…¡en Agosto volvemos!

Of course!

Hi Tobias, thank you and happy you liked it! No, lacquers have much shorter drying times than acrylic, are far easier to spray, and produce a much tougher finish. Huge difference in all 3 respects.

@@TheRaceForTerra that is interesting, than I not completely understand why the lacquers to not clog up the airbrush :D?

@@tobiasweyer5063 I think it has to do with the absence of water - lacquer paints have none whatsoever. It's the water that dries up so quickly and clogs up the airbrush, which is why I never use water to thin paints, not even when using acrylics.

Thank you kindly, hope you enjoyed the video!

Thank you! My choices as a creator, including the music, always reflect what I value and enjoy myself when watching videos as a member of the audience. Like most Warhammer nerds young and old, I listen to metal music. Sorry that you hate it, but as for calling my use of it "unprofessional", I think that is as ludicrous as it's uncalled for, mate. I actually spend a considerable amount of time with sound editing (incl. the soundtrack), and I'm pretty proud of it. Whether or not the music a creator uses matches your own personal tastes has nothing to do with how "professional" they are. Oh, and by the way, I do this as a hobby...

Sorry if I offended ✌️🕊️. I suppose being a Yorkshireman I tend to say things in a “straightforward”, honest fashion 😂. I’ve no problem with metal music by the way (although It’s not my taste, which is mostly iconic progressive rock from the late 60s to late 70s); and no problem with Warhammer - in fact I used to sell that stuff (and Dungeons & Dragons) when I owned two model shops. I just think that producing videos like you do (as a hobby, which is a wonderful thing to do) surely the aim is to just to communicate and pass on advice experience and encouragement to other people. They don’t really need any backing music to ‘enhance their experience’. They just simply want to pick up the tips and advice - that’s with my marketing hat on. Sorry about that but I’ve had to deal with a lot of focused marketing in senior business positions I’ve had over my lifetime. I’m all about being clear over the objectives; keeping a tight focus; not getting distracted in order to achieve the right outcome. Just how I’m wired 😂 And as for my comment about being unprofessional, I did caveat that it was just my opinion. Anyway congratulations for putting time in to help others!

@@madeinyorkshire52 Thank you for your very thoughtful reply. By the way, I grew up in Spain, but as it happens, my dad's from Otley, West Yorkshire...In terms of music or no music, I'd invite you to check out my last 3 videos (mostly Star Wars-themed one way or another), where I tried atmospheric sci-fi ambient stuff instead - see how you like that. The videos themselves are also waaaay better than the one you commented on, which is quite primitive by comparison!

Hi Fieser, this is an incredibly old video (4 years old now) - do you want to know what varnishes I use NOW, or what I used as part of the project in that particular video? If it's the former, I use mostly Tamiya X-22 with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner for gloss, and Tamiya XF-86 with the same thinner for matt/semimatt. Almost all my more recent videos have a list of materials used, per SEGMENT, on screen.

Sorry to hear that! I've heard really good things about Mr. Masking, but never tried it myself. Good luck, though!

Hadn’t thought of it that way, but yes. You’re right! Thank you!

Hi Olly, I hope that means you liked it?

Hi Jaros, there are 2 pastes for 2 different scales - www.migjimenez.com/en/324-anti-slip-textures I don't know about Battletech, but I would guess that either paste might be too coarse for such a scale. If you play other games, I would say get the paste and try it - it's really worth your money compared to other stuff!

Thanks, Rick! Yeah, at least they could have told us about the “new formula”, don’t you think?

@@TheRaceForTerra yes, but they'd have probably said 'new improved mix' !!

Hi Jaros, there are many products - you also have to take into account regular oil paints, Oilbrushers by AMMO, Liquid Pigments by Lifecolor...The only difference really between streaking rust and rust wash is that the first one is a more heavily pigmented enamel, which makes it a bit too much for a regular wash, but easier to manipulate when cerating streaks. This video of mine is extremely old and I have learnt much since - I would recommend you watch some of my newer material for more guidance.

What do you mean, Kriii? Explain what happens And you mean “white spirits”, right?

Thanks, buddy! They also have some interesting blues…😉

Hahah, thanks, Tapio! One of the longest and most epic comments on the channel to date! 😀

I'm honestly a bit shocked by the notion that your videos haven't sparked more conversation on the youtube side of things despite being always so information packed. Mayhaps this old grognard should do more grumbling oor otherwise rouse public disapproval

@@tapioturkki6389Old grognards must stand together!

¡Muchas gracias, tocayo! Me alegro de que te haya gustado el vídeo

Hahah, I am back indeed, and I hope you enjoyed the video! 😉

Hi Jack, all the weathering techniques can, which is really the crux of it - that is why my tutorials are divided into clear steps. Have fun with your bases!

Hi Kriii, thank you, yes, you can. White spirits is more aggressive, though, so be gentle!

Hi Jacob, I rarely use acrylic paints, so I cannot tell you for sure, but given Vallejo have their own (inferior) version of this, which stinks of ammonia and is meant to be used with their own line of paints, I am rather skeptical. If you varnish first as I did here, the chances of issues would decrease further. Given the price, I would get it and test it if I were you.

I thought the same about the Vallejo one, although some sites list it as being water based. I’ll grab some to try with my Vallejo paints as maskol is harder to find in aus. Thanks!

Hi, you are very welcome!

Thanks, JL! Yeah, oil paints in a tube are also a very cost-effective solution when doing large terrain pieces. Happy you liked the video!

Wow, thank you kindly, Kevin. If you want to get one of these, could I ask you to use my affiliate code with a 10% discount? 😉 www.gaahleri.com/discount/TheRaceForTerra010?ref=TheRaceForTerra

Hi Kevin, happy to hear you liked the video! Yes, I am honestly baffled at why people keep using acrylic shades. Other than GW pushing them, I see no reason whatsoever not to move to products like this. My son (9 years old) uses them with no issues at all, so it ain't the learning curve.

It's unlikely it'll vanish...so yeah.

Hi PM, yes, but make sure to watch my second and definitive video on this product: AMMO U-Rust - How to Use U Rust | Star Wars Hobby Tutorial Episode 12/16 czcams.com/video/MbBeVLlw8tU/video.html

Hi Paulus, I would say the Super Strong version is only for particularly tough surfaces, where you need extra adhesion or softening. It will eat through paint pretty quickly, whereas the Strong one will only eat through unvarnished acrylics unless there’s a lot of friction.

@@TheRaceForTerra thx. I got the super strong on its way because the strong was out of stock. So i'll see how that will work on a test model/paint. And if it will eat the paint etc fast :P

Thank you kindly, Mr. O! Let me know if you have any questions about that video or any others!

Thanks a lot, Mark! Have you seen my Crashed X Wing yet?

Thank you, Harrison! Hope you enjoyed the video

That is an excellent question, Vogless, but not one which I can answer in full here. The abridged version would be to say that it depends on the level of perfection required, but it also depends on what type of paints are being used, what layers may go on top of a particular chipping layer, etc. And then, most importantly, you can have different types of chipping within the same project. For example, take my recent Grim Jagdtiger - that one had sponge chipping on the red (done off camera), and chipping fluid on the Dark Yellow (which I did show).

Thanks, mate, but…did you watch the video? I never, ever use X-22, and I explained that the thinner I used was AK’s solvent-based one. In 99% of my videos you will see me use Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, as it happens.

@@TheRaceForTerra yeah i seen which is even worse than x22a.

Hi Vogless, in most cases I would still do a pin wash, at least for surface details like rivets.

Understood, and thanks for the fantastic painting and super useful tutorials!

Hey Warhammerdad, yes, for sure - if you apply it with the airbrush, ensuring that it's really thinly layered, I don't see why not. I like Vallejo Metal Color too, but I just prefer the airbrushing experience with Xtreme Metal.

@@TheRaceForTerra Do you just order your extreme paint then? I cant find it locally anywhere. Thank you for doing what you do! I cant wait to use your techniques!! Its all amazing!

@@WarhammerDad1 Hi, I am located in Germany - here it's pretty easy to find. But yeah, just order online I would say. Thanks for your kind words, buddy!

Hi Croatoam, I would say nothing in our hobby is “absolutely necessary”. It’s about getting best results and having the best experience…highly recommend a gloss varnish for both! Check out my blog for a much longer reply! theraceforterra.blogspot.com/

Sounds great, Moxxi, and happy you liked the video! If you’re doing a Hoth project, why don’t you check out my Hoth X-Wing videos? 😉

​@@TheRaceForTerra will do.

New shiny things indeed! I am really struggling to find any disadvantages, to be honest. I got used to it immediately, so the learning curve is not really a thing. A particular advantage is the paint on-air on-off transition, which is far more intuitive than on a normal airbrush. It has a halfway stop like some handguns, so you simply release till that stop and then it’s air only. Honestly, cannot recommend it enough. Still gotta try to e 0.7 and the 0.5 with the fan cap - those could be game changers for varnishing and priming.

@@TheRaceForTerra oh, so it's not actually a single action in that you retain control of air and paint separately? I didn't know that was a thing in pistol brushes! Combined with a firehose needle that actually makes this quite an attractive prospect for the likes of priming and varnishing, while retaining the precision needed for (at least) early colour application. Well bugger 😅

@@pawlshepherd Damn, I thought that was obvious? Did you not see the part with the highlights, or was it still not clear? 🤔

It would appear that I missed it somehow, sorry! It's likely my fault for not paying attention properly - it's a long time since I've been in school 😜

@@pawlshepherd Hahah, but I’m not so sure now, maybe I should have explained it better!