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The ZD-8915 and 915 and the one u have there all use 24 Volt heater element. Mine has a 36volt fan no problem with overvoltage on my 8915. but the 18 volt to the heater bug me. know there are mods on psu easy done to get 23.5 .psu on all these stations are ZD-P150 V 2.0. 18 volt 12 A, at least what other confirm they have in those models with or without sleep "sensor" The fans have different rating on many, Same as mine had a 12 V fan while mine is 36V

Hello sir In my system wi fi is not turning on, can i do something on thi😊😅

Ah the Mattel version. Not seen one of them in a while

16:44 Unfortunately I am immediately put off by the sheer number of external devices and the rats nest of cables required. RCA will do just fine.

Neat modification. Thanks for showcasing it.

I've never played NES on PAL systems but I'm very familiar with NTSC. Is it normal for SMB to sound and play that fast? It looks like it's 30-50% faster than "it should be".

its not supposed to look like that, if I wanted my nes games to look like that I would just use an emulator.

I want to get excited about this but the having to mod the console to then have multiple external connections is making it difficult, considering how many existing solutions that arr already available, once audio gets incorporated I will prob pick this up and see how difficult it would be to bypass the rf jack and wire directly to the digitizer and add an hdmi port to make this an internal mod

If you have the video over RGB2HDMI it can make the audio out of sync if the audio going by another input.

This is an awesome feat, but what subset of people want “perfect” NES video quality on modern TV’s but with native hardware? Running real NES hardware should almost require a CRT- and analog signal is the best that era did so it’s almost blasphemous to digitize that output. If anyone wants to play NES games in all their glory on modern TV’s, we’ve been able to do that and make it look 10x better with upscaling and shaders with emulators since the 90’s.

This is pretty neat to modify without removing the PPU. Pair it with an external DAC and you’ve got analog RGB output

3:02 Have you actual tested that the capacitor will discharge when you press the power button or is it again a myth?

Hopefully not too long before Rgb2Hdmi can take audio input and embed it into the hdmi signal. That was the only down side for the Vic20 for me. I ended up with more cables and adapter boxes piled up behind the computer.

Excellent video. I was really hoping that they would make a digitizer for NES. Can't wait. I also look forward to a follow-up video

Pretty cool !!

I can’t wait for NTSC support!!

It's a really neat idea that I know I will never use. I have tried all kinds of things with my Amigas, C64s and vintage consoles. I end up getting tired of things (excluding displays) not powering on and off when I turn the computer or console on and off. But, it's still neat to have ways of getting old consoles hooked up to modern displays.

I just wonder. Why LumaCode was developed as analog signal in the first place and not some sort of digital signal. Because for me it looks wery weird to convert Digital -> analog (LumaCode ) -> and back to digital

I care bout composite because I have a CRT tv for my vintage consoles. 🤣🤣🤣

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The PPUdigitzer is expected to become available once full support is added to the RGBtoHDMI (no ETA as yet). If you are interested, please keep an eye on c0pperdragon's Tindie store (link in the video description). I will try to keep this pinned comment updated with news on availability, potential support for NTSC systems, OSSC NES Lumacode support etc. 🙂

Way to go bro 🎉

Did you notice, the emitter and collector of Q1 are reversed, for the common emitter stage that it is supposed to be? The way it's shown, the amplifier stage will have almost zero gain.

Hi. I did the mod and it worked great. Now I also tried to get image from TTL RGB after the mod. Without success. Any idea does the mod affect the functionality of other ports ot is my source faulty. That might also be the reason

thanks great video would you be able to make a video of how you hack the dp932e to the A version

thanks great video would you be able to make a video of how you hack the dp932e to the A version

I have 2 Dell laptops (out of many) that had the AC unknown issue. Adapters work fine with other laptops; just not these 2. They are E7250 and E7450. I tried many online remedies without success. Finally brought out an old PRO3X E-dock and they both charge their batteries and indicate in BIOS the correct adapter wattage and run a lot faster. These old E-docks work for Dell models from E6400 (Core duo) to E7470 (Gen 7 CPU). Very cheap online. Just charge a spare battery to bring to school or work. NOTE: The dock requires a 90W adapter to operate (also cheap online).

I know this vid is over 2yo now but, I do really appreciate the effort that you make in identifying what to look for in the schematics of the machines and how to go about checking the results. BTW, I've also just ordered the video breakout board on your Tindie store - looking forward to having that in my toolbox!

Great repairing!

Great video. Do you have a textual documentation source for those modifications? I have an 1084 and its board clearly differs from yours (an S-P if I remember correctly) so having a written reference would help.

Very entertaining. What would we do without Dupont connectors?

El último paso me pone comando no válido y me quedo ahí he probado el resto de opciones y me dice lo mismo, sabrías que puede ser?

In my opinion, the safest way to do surface mount capacitors is to mask the surrounding areas and then use a rework gun. And in regards to the twist method, I can't say either way for the Super Nintendo because I've never done that but I know from experience that you do not want to use that method on a Gameboy Advance because the pads are too delicate

Thx i searched for a device which can play doom.

15:42 "gut" 😂 I like You speaking German!

So, is that a persistant hack? Will the scope still believe it's a 900 series model after the next update?

6:07 ...can you retrofit it? Like, has the PCB provisions for the connectors and whatnot?

Good video. I've wondered for decades how much that built in drive differs from the 1571. The answer: Not much.

Excellent video. Another one saved! U are very smart/intelligent. Great work and troubleshooting. 5 stars

Thanks a lot for the videos! I just got a CPC 6128 and I'm planning to do the internal 5V to 12V mod, and maybe the external Gotek + A/B switch as well. Please, what power supply did you get in the end to power all (not the bench power supply)? I suppose it needs to give more than 2 amps. Oh, about the CPC games to recommend, try Hostages, North & South, Light Corridor and The Sword of Ianna. I did graphics for the first 2, and the music for all of them ;-)

Had no doubt that it's working :) regarding LED connectors, I have a 1551 where the 3 pins are wrongly wired on the cable, and it came with 1 pin off plugged in from factory 🤨

does anybody know how to polarize the adsm249 digital microscope lenses? I know can cut the direct polarizing the adsm24? For the led lamp lights I can cut out circular small rings measured out with polarize film install them easily and turn them to deflect light, but as for the 3 lenses andonstar provides lens a d and the one mounted is there a glass lens I can buy to install on all 3 lenses so I can cut film for it that fits or an adapter? Does anybody know where they are or who sells the compatible glass lens?

Huh, I always thought the boards were the same in a 1571 an a C128. Never did check though. Fwiw, I would just have run an IEC cable between the connectors for a test like this. :)

Very cool. I suspect that the 6th pin is the shield on the din connector which has little effect if you are not using a shielded cable.

17:07 Autoboot only works on a disk that has a special file to make it autoboot. There's a section in the 1571 and 1581 manual about it. Basically the file is 'COPYRIGHT CBM 86.USR' and that file is autobooted if found.

Do you still this DCR power supply, or did you ditch it after putting the meanwell in?

A few years ago I fully reversed the 1581 board and made an identical 1:1 reproduction. If the guy with the rotten 1571 board sends it to me I'll reverse it and make the PCB files and gerbers open-source.

Sounds like a ROM in the C128D is different.

Sorry, but unless you document all of the changes, down the road, the owner then. will have an UN-repairable KLUDGE. Which will not be cost effective to take the time to repair. Reverse engineering is one thing but jury-rigging is something very different.