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I change this oil at least every 6 months or every 15,000 to 20,000km. It’s a very small reservoir so it gets dirty very fast. Thank you for watching my videos.

Like all robotised gearboxes, it has to be very well maintained. I have only did once full maintenance of all the seals and o-rings. The clutch actuator was also replaced with a new one. It has served me well since 6-7 years ago. I had it since it was 5 years old, now it is into its 14th year. They are very robust but oils have to be changed at least every 6 months and no later. Best is every 3 months. The gearbox itself is a standard manual transmission so every 2 years or 40k miles is alright. You take care of it, it takes care of you. But do find out more on spare parts availability. 159s and breras are going into the 20 year mark since it was last launch so do your homework. Cheers. Thank you for watching.

Woah… so dusty like that you also can see! They are quite loud from 2,500 rpm to 4500 rpm, from here up to rev limit it tapers off. But they sound very nice on cruising speeds. Measured at the inspection centre when getting it approved was around 86 db.

Yes. Brembo always fits better. But it is a little hard getting them here. Parts are cheap but shipping for discs are crazy expensive nowadays. So I decided to skim them first cos they are making noises and pads are old.

Yaaaa…. That’s what I was doing, took so long that my friend started to help me, he says I taking too long…lolol The threads are very dry, I am just afraid to strip the threads. I have removed them before and it was easy, maybe I didn’t lube the threads when I installed them back before. All is good, rear brakes feels better now especially when the handbrake is engaged.

Haha…great minds think alike!

@@ElginLim Yeah. Well, two days before you released the video, but in reality you did them first probably. :D

Thank you Peter!

Hello....hahahaha. Sometimes without music is seems dry. Will take your suggestion. Yes, the engine note is better. Thanks for watching my videos!

Hi Paolo, Thank you for watching my videos. The part I bought was a brand called Victor Reinz part number 81-33489-10. Google it and you should be able to find compatible brands too. The other part is the pulley that I pulled out. The rubber insert in the pulley will wear over time. So I suggest you change both together. The part is 537123424. I bought a OEM part from Dorman 594309. Hope this helps. Thank you again, please subscribe if you have not.😊

Thank you very much!

Hello there! Thank you for watching my videos. The oil I used for the selespeed system is Fuchs Titan CHF-11s, used to be called pentosin CHF-11s. You can also use this oil in the power steering system. There is not much you can do with the selespeed system other than sucking out the oil in the tank and topping it back up again as I have done in this video. It’s about 0.7L only. But I do recommend changing it every 6 months at the very least. The more comprehensive servicing will involve the main pump, the accumulator(the “black ball”), the clutch actuator and the transmission control module (TCM). All I have done before, but I didn’t start this channel then…lol When they come up again I will film the process. Meanwhile, please ask me more if you have any questions. Thank you for subscribing to my channel.

@@ElginLim I watched your video few times and according your recommendation in video did service on my selespeed. Here in Australia I used same power steering liquid for selespeed and for power steering. Drain old liquid and fill with new one. On small reservoir in front refill with brake fluid dot 5.1. But now have problem that my car needs more acceleration for starting in first gear and reverse. Going up to 3rpm and on selespeed reservoir seeing overflowing. Don't know what did wrong.

First and foremost, I must ask if your Selespeed system was working well before you did the oil changes? I do not know the condition of your car so it is very hard for me to deduce what is going on. Cos it has to be good before anything can be done to it. The Selespeed system has 2 reservoirs. One(CHF-11s)for the shifting system and one(DOT4) for the clutch actuator. The Selespeed oil is specific, either the original CS speed or CHF-11s, no other oils should be used. You cannot fully fill the Selespeed oil reservoir cos there will be some oil in the system and in the accumulator. When reached operating temperature, the oil will expand and reservior level will go up. There is a minimum level mark on the tank but no maximum level. I have been doing this for a long time so i know how much to fill up without overflowing once temp is reached. But if you are doing this for the first time, you will have to top up about 1cm pass the minimum level, run the car, then top up again if necessary. The engine rpm doesn’t affect the Selespeed oil level. The system should self prime to get rid of any air in the system. If your clutch is not biting well in first gear or from stationary, then you may have to get into the transmission module thru the OBD2 to do a clutch bleed and calibration. But this will need two things, an app called AlfaOBD installed in your phone and a OBD2 reader which connects to the app via Bluetooth. If you can’t do this, then going to a workshop that can read the Alfa systems will be good. 3 procedures need to be done. 1. Clutch bleed 2. Enable fine calibration 3. End of line service Do update me. The Selespeed oil reservoir should not have any bubbling coming out of the return pipe which is just in front of the tank. If there is, means your clutch actuator maybe on the way out.

Yes it is. Thank you!

Hi Rick! The cable comes with the door handle so i think there is no part number. One way for repair to use bicycle brake or derailer cables, where it can be cut to length and clamped with an aluminium end piece. I have done that with my snapped cable and it seems to work, but it is as a spare. I have not installed it. Thank you for viewing and for the questions. Cheers!

Hello FoxOkinawa, You cannot block off this hose, but you can do a Uturn pipe to attach to the return hose. Then block off the inlet and outlet hoses of the heater. BUT, the 159 has a climatic control to the aircon system, it takes the outside temperature and cabin temperature to regulate the aircon temperature. Stopping the flow of hot coolant may or may not affect the regulation of the temperature. One of my friends has done it in his car and reported that aircon is cooler. The coolant in the heater may have to be purge out as stagnant coolant may not be good for the heater in the long term. The ID of the hose is about 16 to 18mm. The original part has a plastic end which i have replace with a brass connector so it doesn’t fail over time. Whatever you do, please execute with care, the cooling system is a circuit so it cannot be just blocked off. Have to ensure flow. Thank you for viewing and questions. Cheers!

Yes, one side is bigger. The part fails mainly because it is very close to the exhaust so heat fatigue will kill it over time.

Hi 👋 It can be done. I think there are two ways. One is open up and put inside or those that is stuck outside. The issue is wiring inside. Have to solder or connect properly. I think there are some videos showing how it is done. Thank you for viewing my videos. Cheers!

Hello, If you can’t get R9, try to get as high of a rating as possible. I used R9 because it is meant for fuel injection and I didn’t want to have to do it again. I think at least R7(50psi) would be better. I got my R9 from eBay Uk, see if you can order from there. Please get good quality ones. It is a pain to have them burst while driving. Cheers! Thank you for watching!

Thank you for watching!

It's the oil reservoir for the clutch pump. Thank you for watching.

What kms you used to change?

This should be done at least every 6 months. For myself, I change it every 15,000km

Same, this is the second one for me too. Thanks David! Hope you are well...

What you need to do? You can contact me via my IG account @elgdisco

You're welcome!

Yes, you should replace the blue O-rings and the plastic rings that are there too. The Teflon rings that are near the tip should be replaced too. There are repair kits available for sale online. Thanks for watching my videos!

I would go a step further to ultrasonic clean the injectors and change the micro filters. But I don't know what tools you have. What you have done is good.

Sorry. The video was corrupted. Couldn't upload.

@@ElginLim ok ,thanks

@@peterbrouwer8795 what do you need to know? Perhaps I could help.

the last step,,i can follow all what you did,,that is great, thx, but dont know what to do next next

@@peterbrouwer8795 After the black manifold is removed, you will see the fuel rail. You would have to remove the in/out pipes that are connected to the fuel rail. A tight fit but is doable. The fuel injectors will come out together with the fuel rail. Pull gently but firmly. Straight out. One or two injectors may get stuck in the engine but pull and twist to get them out. Reinstallation will be the reverse of taking out. But you will have to install the fuel injectors onto the rail and push the whole assembly back into the engine as a whole. Have to get everything align which is a bit of a pain. For the injectors themselves, You would have to buy the repair kit to change the blue O-rings, the plastic ring together with the O-rings and the Teflon ring at the tip of the injector. Please use clean engine oil to lube the blue O-rings so they slide in easily. You can watch videos for injectors change from Bosch. They have good videos. Hope this helps. Let me know

Yes. If it is very well maintained. Changing of the selespeed fluid and clutch fluid is a must minimum every 6 months. I did a change of seals and all the critical components. It has been 6-7 years now. There are 3 main parts to the selespeed system. All must work together including the clutch.

@@ElginLim Thanks for the advice much appreciated

Have replied you...

Hello, No, it is still inside the original air box, but if you strain your ears, there is still a slight induction sound.

Thank you Fox! Wishing you a very Happy Lunar Year! 身体健康，万事如意，龙年行大运！🍊🍊🧧🧧

You’re welcome! I have fun and me time as I fix my car.

Really? I have to find out more. I could have a Patreon account which I think will be easier but I want CZcams to pay me for my content.

Hello again DCS, They are not the best but for their price, they do a decent job. Most important is, they don’t let water in and no fogging after a very wet drive. They fit well and no headaches so I would say they are quite ok. I would not be doing this if the seller has sent me the correct RHD model. If they did then you wouldn’t have a chance to watch this video 😂😂

@@ElginLim It took me months to find original fog lights. Finally I did in the UK, and they ended up being 5 times as much as Depo ones, but are worth it.

Yes, originals are the best. The beam is even and shines well.

I have been using Agip or Eni for the longest time. I think since the 90s and after I got the chance to distribute it. The I-sint series has a wide range, this one I am using is i-sint ms 5W-40 all fuels so it is good for petrol powered vehicles. Even if they are rated for very long interval oil changes, I still change my oils every 5000km. Something that I have done since I started driving. Singapore is mostly city traffic so it falls into the severe traffic conditions. So service intervals are half. Imagine your oil is like the vacuum bag, there is only so much capacity for it to hold contaminants. Even if the oil is good to run, too much contaminants will just go back into the engine especially if not running at optimum temperatures. So I save myself the headache.

Hello DCS, I have not remove it before. It should not be difficult but do find out if it need a gasket or just apply on like my older 146. I haven’t really look at where all the bolts are, sometimes they are one or two hidden in the gearbox side.

Hi Nabil, By right, you should not get any fault codes, but you may have power issues or lean burn as the tear would be after the MAF and the extra air wouldn't be accounted for by the MAF. In any case, just change to a silicone hose if the original is not available. ID is 80mm to 70mm. As for P1175, you might want to look at the cam variator solenoid at the spark plug area located near the cam sockets. There are 2 of them. One for intake the other for exhaust. If they fail, the cam adjustment would not be working and power will be poor.

Hi David! How are you?

That's not my workshop, it a friend's place.

Hi thank you for viewing, Unfortunately it is out of stock, but you can get a 45 degree angle silicone hose with a ID of 80mm to 70mm. Cut to right length and replace. Also works, not the best solution but better than nothing.

Hello Raj, Thank you for viewing my videos! I am glad they helped. I got them on cars245.com, cars245.com/en/item/bosch-0242230534-spark-plug/ Try this. For oil filters, any good aftermarket brands will do the trick. I use most good brands like Mann, Valeo, Bosch, etc.. For removal of the intake sections, start with the MAF, then the rubber sleeve then the throttle body. There are 4 screws holding the body, 2 on top 2 below, a pain to remove but do slowly, taking care of all the clips and wire harness. The manifold body(black) has a small screw underneath with a bracket attached to it so be careful. The rest is pretty straightforward. The fuel rail and the injectors are a different story, a bit more complicated. Sorry that part of my videos got corrupted. The rail and the injectors comes out together as a whole. But the fuel pipes have to be disassembled first. They are very high pressured so make sure you rest the engine for a few hours and remove them very slowly. Let me know if you have more questions. Thank you.

Merry Christmas! Happy New Year 2024! Was busy traveling, thank you so much!

Hi Tony, That’s right. Thank you for viewing my videos.

Good morning! How are you David? Also Hummer brand? It is small but powerful, lasted for 3-4 years before the battery got bloated like all lithium batteries. But got to have one for emergency.

Hi Vallen, You would need to get adaptor connectors to connect to abs and other functions. The OBD2 port can only read maybe 90% Try this. www.ebay.com/itm/271552918793 I have the adaptors but have not connect it myself. So i would not be able to tell you. Hope this helps Thank you for viewing my channel, please subscribe if you have not. Helps the channel.

Hello Elias, Thank you for your kind words and viewing my channel. Unfortunately the engine mounts are out of production as you might know. I got mine from ricambi alfisti, ricambi.alfisti.net/en/Spare-Parts/Alfa-Romeo/Alfa-159-159-SW-939/ENGINE/Engine-mounting-suspensions:::895_3793_920_1396_1938.html Alfaworkshop.co.uk www.alfashop.co.uk/ You can try these guys but i think they might not have. I have also found a company in Poland or Russia that refurbishes old mounts. I’m sorry I can’t find the link. The other way is to refurbish it yourself, you can buy urethane or polyurethane mix to pour into your existing mounts. If you have kept your old ones then you wouldn’t have downtime waiting for the urethane to cure, but that’s one way. Or those 3M tubes which can be injected or squeeze into the engine mounts. Please subscribe if you have not, helps the channel. Thank you.

@@ElginLim thank you for the information.

That's great!

Hello... No, just routine change for the plugs and coils. They were 3-4 years old. As for the heat shield, it's a aluminium tray...lol. It helps with the direct blast of heat from the fan. But after the heat soak comes in, most of the engine bay would be about the same temperature. Yes, the 159 has the ECU problems of heat or moisture that affect it. So any means of heat reduction would be good. Maybe a fan drawing cool air from the outside?

Hello akain, I am about to upload a video that shows me removing the red engine cover. The video is about changing the spark plugs and coil which is underneath. The cover also covers the fuel lines and high pressure pump. I do have a video when I removed the fuel injectors but some of the parts were corrupted and I couldn't upload all of it. To remove the fuel injectors, you will have to remove the throttle body, the intake manifold and the fuel rail. The fuel injectors are connected to the fuel rail. Thank you for viewing my channel! Please subscribe Thank you.

@@ElginLim Hello, thanks for the response, I managed to remove the red cover, and see the problem with my Alfa Rpmeo 159 2.2 year 2013, it has a fuel leak.

Fuel leaking from the supply fuel line is common for the 159. There’s a L shaped connector that you should change too as it is always leaking from there. I have a video where i replaced the fuel hoses there, have a look at it. Thank you for viewing, hope all this helps Please subscribe if you have not, helps the channel.

Hello friend, I always oriented the bars of the dipstick upwards cos it will take the highest level of the oil. When I pull the dipstick out, it would also naturally rest on my other hand and facing me. The highest bar and the lowest bar markers will indicate 1L of oil. The digital oil indicator on the dashboard also shows slightly lower level than the dipstick, but also depends if your car is parked level or not. Cheers, hope this helps!

@@ElginLim Thank you, I will do the same. The level sensor is very buggy. At low temperatures (which you don't get in your country) it will show zero bars. But I check the dipstick and it is full on the dipstic bars (at the max level).

Hi Igor, I really can't remember, but mine was rated at 82 degrees if I remembered correctly. My country needs cooler temperatures. Try to find those that are rated at 90 degrees. Have you checked the temperature off the OBD2 reader which will be most accurate. Cheers! Thank you for viewing my video. Please subscribe if you have not, helps the channel.

@@ElginLim thanks!

@@IgorHorvat You're welcome!

Hi Chaim, It is possible to take out the tank but I wouldn't advise doing it as it will be difficult to put it back. I would suggest that the oil to be suck out and replaced. It is only 0.7L so it is easier to do that. Do it a few times to renew the oil by dilution. Most of the oil will still be in the system like the accumulator. So if you really want to clean it, you have to remove the whole selespeed system off the gearbox. Then you can change the accumulator(like a back ball) at the same time. The system also has 4 solenoids that changes the gear which is house in the TCM. It has 12 o-rings seals (3 for each solenoid) which can be replaced. But that's if you are going to remove the whole selespeed system. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you for your time viewing and subscribing to my channel!

Also use the correct oil, only tutela CS speed or Fuchs titan CHF-11s

Thanks, but if I disconnect a tank for cleaning and refilling, is it necessary to calibrate the gear (introduction of air into the system) or is there no concern? Thanks!

The system should self bleed as it is like the power steering system, just a lot higher pressure. But make sure to keep it clean. Don't need to recalibrate the selespeed system, but make sure battery is disconnected. You don't want the system to power up suddenly. The pipe to the tank is very hard to remove so don't break the tank or the pipe just because you want to take it out, but I understand why you want to take it out. Please be very careful. Cheers!

Ok dear friend I thank you very much for your quick response 🙏

Hi FoxOkinawa, Please replace it as soon as it leaks! The oil will coat the belts and the belts will snap after a while as oil is not friendly to belts. My power steering belt snapped as I didn't have an extra belt to change when the seal was replaced. So change the seal and the belts at the same time. Thank you for your time viewing my video and subscribing! It helps the channel.

@@ElginLim Hi Elgin, Thanks for the prompt reply. For the tensioner, is it okay to just replace the pulley and not the entire tensioner assembly? You replace it because of mileage (how many km) or oil contamination? Since the tensioner is a mechanical part (spring), can it be cleaned? Appreciate your advice. ☺

Hey FoxOkinawa, Sorry that I have missed this comment. This part comes as an entire tensioner assembly. I have replaced this a few times, mostly due to periodic maintenance. The last was because there was sound coming out of the bearing. Usually its is replaced together with the belts about 70-100k km. It can be cleaned but would rather replace the whole assembly. The spring is under fatigue load for a long time so changing the whole assembly is better. Cheers! Hope this helps.

@@ElginLim Hi Elgin, no worries, thanks for the advice. I really learned a lot.

Hey, it is not available. But I did find a company that refurbished old ones. I think it was a polish or Latvia company. The website was in Russian. Maybe you can Google for it. I did fill up my old one with wall cladding rubber as it was quite hard and heat resistant. Bought from the hardware store. You have to cable tie up the centre upsides so more can be squeezed under the bottom as the mounts will sag when they are old. Try it if you have an old one lying around.

@@ElginLim Yeah, nobody makes them any more. :( I did find one place that has them, in Portugal. But they are 375 EUR. I ordered a used one, and will probably send it to a guy who refurbishes them, here in Serbia. Or install that one on my car, and send mine. I will see.

did you manage to refurbish your mount ? im also looking for a company in Eu who refurbishes old ones .. i have an extra old one especially for this purpose..@@DashCamSerbia