The shop manual for the 2013 Outlander states "Never use any impact wrench for drive pulley removal". So I didn't. I cannot remove the fixed sheave using a hand tool. I held the crank in place by removing the cover on the right side of the engine and inserting a hex wrench but could not budge the sheave. Rather than damage crank I quit the attempts. Now I've watched countless videos and everyone uses an impact wrench. So I erred on the side of caution and now realize from your statement that the fixed sheave is impossible to remove without an impact wrench. None of the videos ever show the necessity of locking the crank as everyone uses an impact driver. Thanks for stating an impact driver is required for the FIXED SHEAVE. Great Vid!
I need to replace my inner cvt cover and was wondering is there a secret to keeping the small springs and sheaths in after I change the old cvt inner cover out with the new cover. I've never done this before so that's my fear as to those two small springs and are they that difficult to put them back in and keep them in? My machine is a 2014 maverick 1000r xxc dps 4x4...
There are many different factors that cause belt issues. Most of the time it is caused from over heating the belt due to extreme use, wrong gear selection, belt slippage, use and abuse.
+Mike Eldredge we would have you the Mudder kit with the 30's. The description say 28-29.5 but we did all of our testing with 30" silverbacks. The Mudder kit will give you a lot better low end power and response and grip the belt better then stock.
the rim that it suggest for the m udder kit to engage seems awfully high, how is this going to be for trail rideing, I just bought the mudder kit because that is what the woman I spoke with on the phone suggested where I am installing 30 " silverbacks on my 15 maverick Xxc, I hope she is right
+Mike Eldredge Yes that is the correct kit. The mudder kit will giver you better belt grip all around and also give you better low end and midrange power, faster backshift and throttle response and will make up for the power loss of switching to the larger tires.
I personally prefer the bolts also but can am had better luck with stud style not coming loose on the that style Mavericks. At one time there was a company selling a heavy duty bolt for them, I think it was Airdam Clutches.
Yes we do. The 2012-2015 models use the same kit (except for the 1000 Outlander XMR). We have several different types of kits depending on how and where you are riding. You can find more info on the individual fitments on our websites at www.epiperformance.com Let us know if you have any other questions.
Yes it would unless its an XMR. Can Am did change the bolt that holds on the clutches and went to a stud with a nut on some of the newer years of the Maverick but other then that working on the clutches would all be the same.
If you have the Maverick Turbo or the new 2017 Maverick XMR it will have the QRS secondary clutch. We don't have a video on that one yet but hope to soon. can Am makes a similar tool that locks into both clutches to hold them in place allowing you to loosen/tighten the clutch bolts.
EPIperformance I turned in my car can am and no longer wanted to acelérate I turned it of and prendy and everthing continued iwual but at 30 mph he protects himself and he does not want to accelerate any more than normal semeone who alludes me in thatI would appreciate them on
@@adanjacobo3314 It might be your seat belt safety switch or your seat belt wires came unplugged. I would also unhook the battery for a few minutes and then hook it back up and try again.
+jose barrera that worked on the older Can Ams but the newer models use a torque to yield bolt that stretches as it gets torqued. IF you over torque with an impact gun the bolt stretches to much and come loose or if you don't torque it enough the bolt will back out and usually wreck your helix and belt when the clutches shoots off the shaft when you are riding.
Thank you for the vid ! Helped me with some frustration !
great video, thanks. clutch and sand tires next for my 2012 commander.
The shop manual for the 2013 Outlander states "Never use any impact wrench for drive pulley removal". So I didn't. I cannot remove the fixed sheave using a hand tool. I held the crank in place by removing the cover on the right side of the engine and inserting a hex wrench but could not budge the sheave. Rather than damage crank I quit the attempts. Now I've watched countless videos and everyone uses an impact wrench. So I erred on the side of caution and now realize from your statement that the fixed sheave is impossible to remove without an impact wrench. None of the videos ever show the necessity of locking the crank as everyone uses an impact driver. Thanks for stating an impact driver is required for the FIXED SHEAVE. Great Vid!
Our production run of weights are finally done and able to ship kits now. :-)
Thanks great video
Thank you so much for such a detailed video.
Glad it helped you out!
This kit will give you a better response on and off the gas. Better back shifting and belt grip. It will hold a more consistent and steady RPM.
We have been running our Severe Duty Commander belt (WE261025) with out any problems on our Maverick.
si ya revento demasiada potencia
Hey I just bought a 2013 maverick. I want the best of both worlds. The low end power and I sure love the speed. So any advice on a good combination?
the CLUTCH CULT
Do you know what the part # is for the toll that holds the primary and the secondary in place???
I need to replace my inner cvt cover and was wondering is there a secret to keeping the small springs and sheaths in after I change the old cvt inner cover out with the new cover. I've never done this before so that's my fear as to those two small springs and are they that difficult to put them back in and keep them in? My machine is a 2014 maverick 1000r xxc dps 4x4...
👍📽
Good video,,, have you had any problem with your key not being recognized on a Can-am 500 Outlander?
+Teri and TL Stanbro No we have never ran into that. I would talk with your dealer and try another key.
great video can u tell my why I shredded my belt after 13 hours of use, what did I d wrong
There are many different factors that cause belt issues. Most of the time it is caused from over heating the belt due to extreme use, wrong gear selection, belt slippage, use and abuse.
What does this add
hi, I just ordered 30" Gorilla Silverback tires and am putting them on 14" wheels what do I need for a clutch kit to run these?
+Mike Eldredge we would have you the Mudder kit with the 30's. The description say 28-29.5 but we did all of our testing with 30" silverbacks. The Mudder kit will give you a lot better low end power and response and grip the belt better then stock.
the rim that it suggest for the m udder kit to engage seems awfully high, how is this going to be for trail rideing, I just bought the mudder kit because that is what the woman I spoke with on the phone suggested where I am installing 30 " silverbacks on my 15 maverick Xxc, I hope she is right
+Mike Eldredge Yes that is the correct kit. The mudder kit will giver you better belt grip all around and also give you better low end and midrange power, faster backshift and throttle response and will make up for the power loss of switching to the larger tires.
My 2015 has the studs not the bolts, is it possible to switch to bolts to hold the clutches on? I'm not a fan of the stud/ lock nut set up. Thanks.
I personally prefer the bolts also but can am had better luck with stud style not coming loose on the that style Mavericks. At one time there was a company selling a heavy duty bolt for them, I think it was Airdam Clutches.
Is torque specs the same for the can am outlander 1000 ? Thanks once again
On the outlander it depends on the year of the machine. If you call us we can look it up for your specific year in our kit instructions. 218-829-6036
Can I remove the back side of the primary I have pcs of belt behind it
You can but a special primary clutch puller is required. EPI part number PCP-16 is the puller you need. ($39.95).
do they have this kit fo 2014 outlander xt 1000?
Yes we do. The 2012-2015 models use the same kit (except for the 1000 Outlander XMR). We have several different types of kits depending on how and where you are riding. You can find more info on the individual fitments on our websites at www.epiperformance.com Let us know if you have any other questions.
Does this apply to a 2015 Can-Am Maverick Max?
Yes it would unless its an XMR. Can Am did change the bolt that holds on the clutches and went to a stud with a nut on some of the newer years of the Maverick but other then that working on the clutches would all be the same.
My Maverick has another type of second clutch how can i take it off
If you have the Maverick Turbo or the new 2017 Maverick XMR it will have the QRS secondary clutch. We don't have a video on that one yet but hope to soon. can Am makes a similar tool that locks into both clutches to hold them in place allowing you to loosen/tighten the clutch bolts.
Thank you very much
What is the part number for the tool that hold both clutches?
Hi Joe, The Can Am part number for the clutch holding tool is 529036238.
Thanks for the prompt reply.
So this will get me more low end torque?
cecilio zarate Yes more low end and midrange power and response out of your machine.
My maverick only has 44hrs and the Damn belt busted already
Clutch holder part# is 529-036-238
EPIperformance I turned in my car can am and no longer wanted to acelérate I turned it of and prendy and everthing continued iwual but at 30 mph he protects himself and he does not want to accelerate any more than normal semeone who alludes me in thatI would appreciate them on
@@adanjacobo3314 It might be your seat belt safety switch or your seat belt wires came unplugged. I would also unhook the battery for a few minutes and then hook it back up and try again.
or you can buy an impact gun so nobody have to hold the clutch or buy the tool to hold it in place lol
+jose barrera that worked on the older Can Ams but the newer models use a torque to yield bolt that stretches as it gets torqued. IF you over torque with an impact gun the bolt stretches to much and come loose or if you don't torque it enough the bolt will back out and usually wreck your helix and belt when the clutches shoots off the shaft when you are riding.