Top 5 ways you're WASTING money on with your PC!
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- čas přidán 28. 04. 2024
- Stop wasting money when building or buying your PC!
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"Gaming" Chairs, they certainly look nice but there are so many better chairs out there that are better for your back.
This is true, I have a Herman miller chair but Jesus Christ they’re way more expensive. Thankfully I have a family member who works for an office furnishing company
I got a leap v2 refurbished. You never know it was used before. Everything looks brand new. Wonderful chair as well. I wasted money on my first pc chair lasted a 7 month was horrible to sit at. This one will last for me till I'm old.
just have cheap comfy office chair. or just cheap comfy normal chair.
While this is true in a lot of cases, especially with cheaper gaming chairs. I actually prefer my Secret Lab chair over my Herman Miller.
A-Freaking-Men, Wish I gave up on that crap years-decade ago
Pretty happy with my Steelcase now, wish I had the moneys for a Herman Miller, but..
I agree plz do a timing video with Ram. Would love to understand more!
Yeah, I still don't understand the difference between speed and timings, or at what point one becomes more important than the other.
@@cchhiipp no worries, Jay doesn´t either...
simple, choose lower timings over speed
if you wanna learn about ram buildzoid is the place to go.
Yes 💯
The biggest red flag that the PC is overpriced is if it has a little apple logo on it.
Tbf, I'm a die hard PC gamer but for laptops, the M series macbooks are undefeated when it comes to efficiency/screen on time. Gotta give credit where its due.
I agree with you on iPhones! Even the new ones are shit! I just got a new one and it fucking sucks so badly! Apple has fallen into that group of companies that just use their brand as an excuse to charge more for shit products,
I will say, however, their laptops are the only thing that’s remotely half decent and reliable,
But I’m a hardcore PC traditionalist!
are u stuck in 2015 mate?
@@oooooooorion That saying doesn't really hit that hard if less than a decade has passed.
Tbh the new M series seems great!
If something is branded as "gaming" these days, just know that you can find the non-gaming version of it for around 50-70% cheaper with a little bit of effort and searching.
It's sort of like buying a car. Just because it has stripes on it's paintjob doesn't mean it's better. It might be 1% faster because it has stripes, but it most certainly doesn't mean better.
YES Jay, I've been debating upgrading my RAM. That detailed video on timing and Mega-transfers would help greatly.
Yeah I think this would be extremely helpful for myself as well because I'm actually looking to upgrade my RAM because 16gigs just isn't enough. Seems a lot of games I play have a bit of a memory leak and even just an hour on them and they crash. I'm also a disgusting human being leaving 6-7 tabs open on my browser while playing. My RAM just constantly sitting at 80-90% usage it seems.
@@popmagic9006 If you increase your swap file size to like 20gigs and put it on an SSD/nvme drive, windows will start dumping excess things that's holding into the ram onto the swap file and freeing up ram as it's needed. Windows is a resource hog these days and it will fill up the default swap file fairly quickly with garbage, and then it will continuously hold things in the ram that can be dumped cuz they aren't used. I think going to like 50 gigs swap file can work too, but it can cause some problems if I remember right, cuz it's a bit too big of a file to be read quickly by the machine. My current one is 13 gigs (when windows recommends just 3). Another way to free up memory is to run certain extensions on your browser that limit tracking scripts, ads, etc. I agree sometimes 16 gigs can be insufficient, and 32 is definitely recommended (so you can have 16 for gaming), but there are things that can be done to alleviate that.
@@popmagic9006This is absolutely true now. 16 gigs isn't enough for gaming.
It's mostly to do with two things. First is that Gaming industry culture rn is to release games in half baked forms with a lot of bugs. There are always memory leaks in games especially in ones with AI heavy opponents or open world components.
2nd is that Chrome is the most commonly used web browser and it's a resource hog as everybody knows. That thing occupies ram usage like it's nobody else's business. If you have a dual monitor setup(quite common nowadays) and want to listen to music, you will have a few tabs open.
Also, i'm not to sure about it but i believe windows also reserves upto 4gb for itself as it is.
@@popmagic9006
6-7 tabs are nothing.
It shouldnt matter in ram usage that much. The browser itself would take the most memory from you not its tabs. The tabs are optimized not take ram or use minimal amount when not used.
I would like a comparison of high MHz high timings vs low MHz low timings comparison vs middle of the road
RGB has been talked about constantly, but one of the things I don't see talked about enough is white parts, I have several friends that have opted for all white builds. it makes sense since the standard is usually black so they're charging you essentially for the white paint or plastic, but like it starts to add up
every time i buy white electronics they end up failing, it's made me racist
No clue which parts your friends are buying or where they are buying them from, but I went with an all white PC and paid the same price for the parts as it's black counterparts. For example the Lian Li Unifans I am running are the same price in white or black.
And it costs exactly the same to make them white as it does to make them black.
Tried to find a new 1080p gaming monitor for a new all-white build for my oldest son but gave up and bought a black one due to very limited options and higher prices in white bezels. I'm just not willing to pay a huge colorway premium. We can always add white vinyl adhesive to the front to make a two-tone look for $10-$15 if we want to later on.
My cpu cooler was actually 30% cheaper in white...all black with white cooler lmao
When NVIDIA reported a 79% margin, we knew we were F...
Umm, well... Nvidia reap profits mostly from enterprise stuff like supercomputers, servers, data centers, etc
That's why they care to AI tech much more than they care to gamer desires
Spending 100 dollars on a Windows License 😅
There is an app called Gameflip so much easier and cheaper
$17 for an education or enterprise Windows license from Keysoff!
@@donjulioanejo bro 5$ windows 11 pro key on Gameflip
linux just works!
Spending 5$ on a windows 11 key on gameflip
Going overkill on CPU cooling when it isn't needed. Every CPU doesn't need an AIO or a Noctua DH-15. My first build had a Ryzen 7 3700x and i was looking at $100+ coolers to put on it because i just didnt know any better, thankfully did enough research to just settle for the cooler that came with it. 3 years with the stock prism cooler, no problems. I've upgraded PCs since but I easily could have added $100-$150 to a build when I didnt need to.
This is definitely it. I had the Ryzen stock cooler, and I upgraded to a Noctua NH-U12S. Not liquid, no dual towers, heck not even dual fans on it. And the result? My overclocked Ryzen 5 1500X (I know lol) NEVER EXCEEDED 65C and 900 rpm on the fan. I literally could not get it to go higher than that, even running everything at 100%. The cooler wasn't even running at full speed (1500rpm)! And this cooler is like 2 tiers below the NH-D15. And it still has room for a second fan, it even comes with the mounting hardware for it! And guess what was the BIGGEST gain? Sound. The noise reduction gained by going from a 2000 rpm 92mm fan to a 1500rpm (max) 120mm fan was very noticeable, even with my Define R5 case.
because water cooler enthusiasts are like vegans and try their hardest to get everyone else to water cool xd
I hate when seeing people using an AIO on a 6 core CPU. That thing can run on a stock cooler just a bit louder. Using an AIO will net almost 0% performance boost, just that it's be quieter. Get a good air cooler for that.
Ryzen stock coolers are definitely one of the best. If only Intel could've done what AMD did. I always always have to change out my Intel Stock cooler after a few years because the feet locks just breaks because the plastic is either brittle or it bends itself somehow
Still have my nh-d14, cost me £55/60 back in 2012/2013 best investment into cpu cooling, has limited my case options which I want smaller than over a decade ago😅 it is time for some new fans though.
One of the biggest wastes of money is buying like $500 motherboard for a CPU that would work literally EXACLTY the same on a $100 board. So ultimately, the BIGGEST offender is that people are aiming for looks instead of performance. (And I'm guilty of this myself)
The biggest offenders are the manufacturers misinforming the public to make them believe their budget offerings are sh*t - and actually actively making them that. They're forcing the market into the high-margin top tier.
I was buying motherboard right now. And for me the most important was connectivity. And you can't buy cheap mobo with like 4 slots for M2 Gen 4. I already have 2 drives on it. And still I can put more if I go out of storage. Will be cheaper to add one then buy bigger new and replace . Especially that in time price will drop. Before I had quite expensive mobo asus formula v with i7 3770k and it's still working. And I use 7 ports of sata on it wich with cheap mother board won't be possible. So you can't go too cheap if you want something for years
@@evan-du3vkAbsolutely; the CPU isn't the only thing that goes on a motherboard. I really wish I could get just one extra SATA port on my current MB.
$500 mobo is ridiculous but $100 for a new mobo msrp isn't going to be very good. It's more than just the cpu/ram.
CPU's and RAM have only gotten cheaper, adjusted for inflation and performance, but sure, of course they play a role. @@corybjarnason218
Thank you for this, I kinda needed that as I'm planning on upgrading my PC!
Jay makes the best content out there. Always enjoy his level headed videos like this, its refreshing.
I think it is also quite easy to overspend on a case. If you are on a budget or care more about function vs form, lean towards a basic case with decent airflow.
I agree. The case is a major factor when building your PC and overspending is very easy 'because it looks nicer'.
Not really. Case choice is much more about actual quality, both from a build quality perspective, but especially performance. A lot of the cheaper cases just plain suck when it comes to thermal performance.
agree, the sweetwpot is between 100-125€, anything more is mostly waste of money unless you *really* know what you need
@@AB-80X It depends what you are going for. I have seen plenty of PC's have no case and/custom case that didn't even start as a PC case. Even a cheap case that is not sealed off (decent airflow) will work just fine. A case is not necessary to have a working PC. It is just there for protection and looks.
Bring back the $30 "Beige Box" mini tower!
Water cooling. Never used it, or needed it. Been building PC's since 1990. Gaming hardcore before that on consoles and still fly Microsoft Flight Sim2020, and play games. Thanks Jayz.
How's your average room temp though?
Watercooling has always been unnecessary...It's something that you do for fun or to just make you system look nice...I always watercool my PCs because I like the way it looks and I enjoy building it, but it is definitely not necessary...
@@brucepreston3927you couldn’t be more wrong saying it’s never needed.
I’ve been building PC’s for 25+ Years and yes for the average gamer they don’t need it.
That being said, ANYONE running a 13700K/14700K or 13900K/14900K should absolutely be water cooling. ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE DOINY ANY KIND OF OVERCLOCKING.
If you have a Case like the O11 Dynamic EVO with the entire Case Full of Fans in the proper Configuration (3 Fans at the Top, Bottom, Side, and 1 Fan at Rear) along with your house staying quite cool you could probably use a Air Cooler (A Decent to Best Quality) and run a 13700K/14700K
@@h.m.chuang0224 What's that got to do with water cooling? Water or air you're still moving the same amount of heat from the PC to the air around it.
@@h.m.chuang0224The same either way, the heat is not deleted its transferred to a radiator.
This video needs more views. I just think once people have sunk the money into their machines, they don't like hearing that they wasted their money. Most PC builds are just for bragging rights to strangers on the internet. It's like when I was in a Honda bike dealership once and I asked about the difference beteween a CBR 750 and CBR 1000. The dealer told me it was really just for bragging rights. Sure, the 1000 is faster on paper, but unless you are on the track, there are zero situations where that extra power is going to do anything for you. Nobody needs to go from 0 to 60 in 2.6 seconds. 3.6 seconds is still ridiculously fast. In the end it is just bragging rights to tell people you have a 1000 instead of a 750. So maybe nobody needs 64 GB of RAM, but to the uninitiated it makes it sound like the computer is twice as good as one with 32 GB of RAM. Same with graphics cards and all that fun stuff. If you don't need a 4090, then there is no point in having one other than bragging rights. Same thing with a Threadripper. Do you really need a 64 core 128 thread CPU to play games? Hardly. But people like to overbuild their computers just like they enjoy overbuilding their cars. It's all for bragging rights, so I guess that is what it buys you.
All that being said, I have 64 GB of RAM in my machine with a 3070 and Ryzen 9 7900x and I don't do anything that needs any of that power, so I'm just as guilty of overbuilding as everyone else. ;) Great video, by the way. I really enjoy your stuff and have learned a lot from you!
I only have 8GB of RAM, which does everything I need. I built my PC over 12 years ago. I went into a parts store, got a shopping cart, and asked for an employee to help me find what I needed. I got the biggest case with an adequate power supply, a motherboard that fit, the best CPU available at the time, a small hard drive (for OS and programs only), a good graphics card, and a Blu-ray writer for backups and playing movies. I paid a little over $2,000 and got a $4,000 computer when I finished assembly. It might have been overkill for that time, but I've been running the same computer 24/7 for over 12 years, replacing only the hard drive after about 9 years with an SSD. So I'm way ahead on the money.
You’re right. Although for me overbuilding wasn’t really about bragging because I don’t really know anyone who knows or cares about computer specs and apart from YT I don’t have social media.
Like your car example. There’s a certain satisfaction to building something that has the best parts you can find/afford and knowing it has immense power potential. I agree for most people who don’t use them for work it’s probably about all that ego stroking and “PC Master Race” baloney lol.
For the outlier enthusiasts it’s more about pushing limits because it’s fun, with a solid side of future proofing.
Video card should cost around 40-55% of your whole gaming PC budget. That is all you need to know.
I'm so interested in what 12 year build with 8GB of ram could even be potentially viable for today@@bite-sizedshorts9635
I agree but if the money is not tight, then not having to upgrade your computer for 4-5 years counts for somehting. Some people don’t want to be bothered for a few years after putting the PC together
Thank you for this Jay. You gave me a lot to think about for my upgrade.
Great vid Jay. All super important info. It's also easy to overspend on a motherboard. Getting features you will never use especially if you don't plan on overclocking. Which also means air cooling is just fine, so there is money to be saved there as well
Yeah I can agree, especially with people sometimes really focusing on certain features that basically have zero actual use. I specifically have in mind those motherboard armors that basically covers the entire back of the board, they do nothing.
Another small one is additional nvme heatsinks, for the most part you likely wont need them for day to day use (idk about pcie gen 5), you are not going to be hitting them at their hardest at all. I do appreciate putting one on the main drive directly connected to the cpu but the addition of one for the other slots connected to the chipset is something that just unnecessarily drives up the cost.
Some air coolers are actually within a few C* and when you look at the pricing and performance of thermalright you would be silly to waste so much on water.
@@EricLab97 Yeah I totally agree. Although in one of my rigs I have a team group 2 TB nvme that gets super hot so it definitely doesn't hurt
@@samuelvanlane For sure especially if you aren't trying to push it to its limits. In my kids computer he has my old 10900k, although hot, AIO is not needed for normal use. However overclocking that thing it gets extremely warm and having a 360mm EK AIO definitely helps keep it under tjmax
Isn't it massively hypocritical from this channel? here is my 3 tip :1 buy sweet spot mid range, 2 no overclocking, 3 no window case. Don't thank me your PC just got 3 to 5 times cheaper with no visible real life difference in usage.
$30+ fans (each) people going around spending $2-500 in fans alone, it's crazy.
If you are not doing anything extreme, then basic fans will do the job. £12 quid for a pack of 4 including hub and rgb controller does just fine.
There are two sides to that coin.
You can spend on "fancy" fans with RGB or LCD. However, you can also spend money on high performance fans. But it depends on what you're doing. Those of us who overclock o make video editing and transcoding faster to save actual time, and who don't want to listen to the fans too much, can benefit from a well designed fan.
I got a 5 pack of Arctic fans for the same price as 1 of those fans. Figured if they didn't work well enough I could just replace them later but I haven't seen a reason to.
Good point. I see a lot of people complaining about the LEDs dying prematurely too. Especially with the Dominator Platinum.
you are right. others arte paying $100+ for a fan.
Love your reviews. You tell it like it is. Obviously you are an enthusiast .Keep up the good work & all the best.
As far as power supplies, when I started, they were as little as 135 watts, and now they go to 1200 watts. Yet, over the years, if you bought a higher wattage power supply, it often had to be replaced when you upgraded anyway because the connectors had changed. The new modular power supplies may help with that somewhat, but even then, my son had to upgrade his modular power supply when he went to a 14900k because he needed an extra 6 or 8 pin connector, if I recall. However, when it comes to power supplies, quality does matter. You don't want power fluctuations, nor do you want your computer to crash with a slight flicker in the incoming line voltage. Sadly, price seems to have pushed the high quality power supplies out of the market because no one will pay for them. You used to be able to buy some real tanks of power supplies that had 2-5x as many windings, meaning a lot more impedance and stability. It also meant they weighed far more, perhaps 2x as much, so they were easy to spot. All current power supplies seem to be the light weight variety. [If you want to reduce from 120 volts to 12 volts you can do it with 5 loops of wire around a conductor on one side, and 50 loops on the other side round the same conductor. Or, you could do it with 25 loops on one side, and 250 loops on the other side, which will have far more impedance and stability.]
Since I keep my cpu under the desk, out of view, besides RGB, my biggest waste would be the glass-walled cases, which are more expensive, and often have worse airflow as a bonus.
I've never replaced a power supply since my first PC in 1989. My current one is using the same cables and connectors as that first one in 1989. There are adapters for anything new that I might get, but additional drives are external, so my power supply is not going to have anything at all added to its load.
@@bite-sizedshorts9635 I know that you can get adapters from the old power connectors to the ones for devices that arrived with the move from IDE to SATA, but what about the motherboard and GPU connectors? The old motherboards and GPUs did not have separate power connectors at all, so obviously the power supplies had no connectors for them.
I do like the older, larger power supplies because they had a lot more windings, so they were very stable, but their overall wattage caps were low, usually 250-400 watts. Additionally, you had to be careful about power draw at specific voltages, rather than just being concerned about total draw.
The only small quibble I have with Jay's list here is the amount of RAM. Not because of gaming, but web browsing and general OS use. Just booting Windows these days with a very basic setup, Steam, Discord, and a chrome/edge/firefox open with 6-12 tabs, you can EASILY eat 10 GB of RAM, and it only goes up from there. The difference in price between 16 (2x8) and 32 (2x16) is so small, just spend the extra $20-30. Speed is important, to a point, after that "sweet spot" is reached, the only need for a sped bump is for OC'ing, but amount of RAM, ... 32GB. I say this as someone who has been running 16 GB for 10+ years, and on my next system I'm bumping to 32 GB.
This. He said 32GB is all you should ever never and I about choked on my drink. 64GB should be the standard for most gamers. 32 is the minimum. Watch your RAM usage just during normal usage and you'll see it easily fills up quickly just with web browsing and light gaming. Heavy hitting games like Star Citizen will soak up 50-60GB of RAM if you have it available
I only have 8GB and have no problem with multiple programs running and dozens of browser windows open when I'm working on genealogy. I can have audio streaming, software recording the audio, word processing software open for work, browser windows open for research, and downloading files from Usenet, all at the same time. I don't know how more RAM would help me, except put off rebooting for a month or two more. I try to have the computer doing something 24/7 and keep it on for weeks or even months before Windows leaves enough crap stuck in the memory to gag the computer.
@@bite-sizedshorts9635You're probably drive caching I'd bet. It's seamless, and you generally don't notice it with multiple low/medium memory usage apps anymore with NVME speeds, but if you have any apps or games that use big chunks of RAM all at once, 8 GB will not be enough. Given the cost, why would anyone only want 8 GB (2x4) of RAM? 16 GB (2x8) is the same price, and probably less these days, and depending on the day, 32 GB (2x16) might be the same price as 16 GB.
@@Djrendezvous99Star Citizen's trash.
@@Djrendezvous99 using an alpha tested only game which isnt even optimized properly is a bad example for gaming 32gb is fine and you can get away with 16gb easily but if you are building a new PC I would recommend 32gb ram 64 is overkill but if you have the budget then go for it
Would definitely love to see an in-depth video on RAM. I always found that more confusing than comparing other components.
Particularly with amd. Despite all the calculators and stuff, I actually gave on it rather than waste time finessing the settings :)
Yes, would love a super detailed technical video on RAM, especially highlighting example scenarios on why high cost maximum performance RAM might matter
Balancing budget on RAM performance depends on what you'll use is the most difficult part of building a PC.
There's too much variable to consider like DDR versions, capacity, frequency, latency, rank, buffer, channel, and much more
The only thing to note from me is: brand doesn't matter. Just get the perfect combination of variables i listed above and get that combination as cheap as possible no mater the brand.
Any RAM dead very rarely even most manufacturers dares to provide a lifetime warranty
almost ten years ago, i decided to build my own pc for the first time, and your videos helped me out so much. now it's time for a new system, and i'm just happy you are still at it, even more so debunking the industry bs that has become rampant in the industry in the last few years. thanks a lot jay
Always appreciate these videos, especially for people who are not tech savvy and just want to play their games now that PCs are becoming the norm.
A big thank you for continuing to look out for the budget conscious builder after all these years. You're a real one 🙌
I've got 16GB of 2133Mhz DDR4 RAM and I've noticed in the past 6-12 months that any time I open 5 to 10 tabs in ANY browser - even Firefox now - my RAM usage goes through the roof and becomes a major bottleneck. 32GB seems like a better amount just to give you more headroom for browser tabs that open 4-5 processes for EVERY SINGLE tab now. It's so dumb that internet browsing now uses more RAM than even a top AAA title game uses!
Just for Info :
These 4-5 processes are most of the time (especially Firefox is "guilty" of this) security measures.
In Firefox's case its called "Project Fission" and its intended to spread out the "Site Isolation" to many different smaller processes in order to make attacks less volatile and successful.
Firefox has an entire "Why & Examples" explanation on their website to anyone that actually wants to inform themselves a bit on the matter.
fish
32Go is a minimum nowadays.
Here's some info that's may be of interest. I have 64gb ram. A moment ago, I had Firefox open with 323 tabs, and Opera open with 134 tabs (across eight "workspaces"). A moment ago, 23.28gb of the total system ram was in use. After closing Firefox, total used dropped to 19.57gb - so, freed up 3.71gb. I then closed Opera, and it dropped to 13.02gb used - 6.55gb freed up. So, Firefox - anecdotally obviously - is way, way more efficient with ram.
Your mileage may vary, obviously. The one nice thing though is being able to just not have to worry all that much about ram when you have an abundance. If I'm about to fire up a game, I'll usually just close Opera, and that's it.
If anyone has any silly comments chiding me for having enormous numbers of tabs open across two browsers, well, feel free to keep them to yourself! :)
Are you opening CZcams on those tabs? CZcams is now fighting back against ad-blockers so aggressively now, that it's rating up CPU usage and possibly RAM usage also
Even as an enthusiast I will still look for the more decent pricing over the few percent performance as tweaking that PC can still bridge that partly and in some instances render those percentages obsolete.
So yeah, I heartily agree with you Jayz!
Fantastic video as always! Looking forward to that video on ram and clock speeds!
Definitely would love to see coverage of the frequency up versus timings down question.
-----
@Sonicstillpoint83
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- A RAM-based 'Hat Trick' would have been the ultimate video...
'Amount' vs 'Speed' vs 'Timings'
As an added bonus...
'Out of the Box' vs 'Tweaked'
Now that would be considered a 'Wet Dream'-scenario if you ask me.
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When you benchmark different speeds and timings, the difference is mostly negligible in terms of percentage. Memory is rarely a bottleneck because it's so fast, but the prices vary a lot.
This knowledge adds very little except artificial benchmark figures.
Gaming Headsets...
I started with a Razer Kraken and ended up with a Razer Nari. Both held up quite nicely. But after one of my ear cups cooling pads broke I decided to go with a pair of studio headphones. The Beyerdynamic 770DT Pro 80 Ohm. While the sound has noticeable less amount of bass everything itself is just CLEAR. And 2 huge plus points are the lower price than most gaming branded headsets and the light weight. I can wear it a whole day and don't feel any pain on my head or ears.
I have Razer Blackshark, original version, and I just went online and ordered 3rd party replacements for ear pads.
Cant really even compare "headsets" with actual headphones designed for audio quality.
Headsets are just functional and that's it. It has a mic. Maybe wireless. Spending too much on it is a waste. A decent brand one will last well enough. For people who need that fast audio latency in gaming, it is a must.
Personally, i use a studio monitor headset and a standalone microphone since i dont do frantic-paced competitive games.
Then again, its not as if the hifi audio community is not without its overpriced gear.
The biggest problem with any headsets are wired ones my last pair of gaming headphones got a broken wire so I ended up going for a wireless head set which was worth it.
True. Headsets are where the having word "gaming" is just a massive red flag. For bluetooth devices, it can be okay because being branded as gaming usually means that it has low latency, which is necessary for playing most games. But if it's wired there's literally nothing different about a "gaming" one and a regular one except their price and rgb, and the "gaming" headsets tend to consistently sound worse than the studio/audio editing stuff at similar price point
Sennheiser HD560s FTW.
The powersupply was a major oversight on my part, I was a first time builder...I didn't have people helping me buy parts. The thing is though, the 1000w psu had the same price with the 850w psu required for my rig. I still love it though. I can overclock the crap out of my components without worrying if my psu can supply it.
Very well explained. I wish there were more videos out there to explain this sort of stuff to IT newbies, or people just trying to figure out how to build their first PC. Now I work in the IT industry, and have recently gone through my five-year-cycle of building a new system from the ground up, and the amount of money I - could - have wasted was staggering. So you're probably saving a lot of people a lot of money, if they see this before buying. I like it.
YES PLEASE on the DDR5 RAM timings and how they matter - Your good at explaining these things to the lay tool such as myself! Thanks btw!
There is no market for "gaming" overclocked DDR5 modules yes. Those which decent are overpriced.
Jay... the biggest reason for the price difference in those NVME M.2's (P3, P3 Plus and the T700) is the that the P3 variants are DRAM Cacheless drives and the T700 has a DRAM Cache....I agree with you though, for most users doing normal daily computing stuff... the P3 would be fine but if you need sustained high write speeds... you are going to need a DRAM Cache!
Get nvme with cache in older pcie versions, it's the best bet.
how is dram cache going to make my games load faster?
it isn't? oh.
well surely 12000MB/sec reading is better than some 3000mb/sec reading, on games right? better than 500mb/sec reading, right? games comes up instantly on 12000? no? its the same speed? oh.
maybe you should explain who uses dram and for what, when you talk of dram. is it just for processing videos, which i will be making 24/7 at work if i am video processor server at work? and once a year at home? okay.
@@Redmanticore
I am a 1B/min beer processor, where is your god now?
@@Redmanticore They didn't say anything about making games load faster, not sure why you immediately went there. They said "if you need sustained high write speeds." Those people can identify themselves, and they probably know what they need it for. Not to mention, they said "sustained high _write"_ and all you're talking about is read speeds. Not sure why you're acting like they're supposed to give a lecture on everything about DRAM cache just because they mentioned it.
But yes, a faster drive absolutely does make a difference _in some games._ Recently I had the Dead Space Remake installed on a slower drive at first, and there was a ridiculous amount of stuttering. Basically unplayable. Moved the install to a much faster nvme drive and suddenly it was fine. Star Citizen also benefits from a really fast drive, and is basically unplayable on slower ones. Ever since consoles finally started using SSD's, faster drives are becoming more of a requirement for some games.
@@neofromthewarnerbrothersic145 You are assuming it can "read" and then if it can "read" that is understands the words used.
Thank you. I'm just trying to play Icarus and build a PC for cheaper than a pre built, and wow am I overwhelmed. Thanks for the help. Your awesome
I really enjoy this really life scenarios that Jay explain, awesome stuff
My obsession with cable management, I even cable manage the cables behind the mobo tray with zip-ties, black electrical tape and clear nail polish to keep said tape from curling up.
But this is "free", you probably like doing it and love the end result.
That sounds beautiful.
So when you remove the tape the cables are all sticky?
@@karlhendrikse Yes but since I use painter's tape it wipes off with alcohol
I mean RGB in general is a big one too. A lot of the minor products can be considerably cheaper if you look for the versions without RGB. Even if it's only saving a few dollars here and there it adds up. A lot of the time you can find a non-RBG version of the same case, fans, coolers etc for a good % cheaper than the RBG versions. PLUS in a lot of cases it saves you the headache of actually getting all the RBG wired up properly and configured in software.
False. RGB or ARGB have its legitimate use. You can have it on "smart" to indicate the temps rather than looking at a secondary display for system monitoring or overlays to block estate on your main display. It even more useful in an enclosed case with smoked transparent side panel or non-transparent panels; you can troubleshoot from the outside which fans aren't spinning due to tangled cables or fault (especially for SFF).
@@lesliegrace8360how to do this if you don't mind me asking
@@ningensan8198Most RGB software have that feature where you tag specific temps threshold at preferred colours. The usual motherboard RGB software offerings like Asus Aura has that feature as well; even OpenRGB is capable of doing it via Hardware Sync plugin.
great vid jay...I'm about to build a new dream pc but this definitely has me thinking twice on a few items. love your practical advice!!
Great video ... Wanting to upgrade to an am4 build using as many parts as I can from my current daily driver and have basically no money to do so... This is great advice.
Many thanks for this great eye opener, advice well given and taken.
Best wishes for a Great Weekend
PSU is the only pc part i always overkill. saves me having to upgrade in the future!
Exactly, and with GPUs becoming more and more power hungry I don't think it's bad ever to go for the absolute best you can afford just to give yourself some room
@@phil_matic Only the "hightest" end GPU draw more power (4090-7900XTX) . . . not the "entry" and "mid" tiers gen on gen !
@@barbatocedric4246 I mean... lots of people from what I see try to aim for something at least a 70 or higher from Nvidia. That's pretty considerable. Again, it doesn't hurt and your PSU can be used for multiple generations unlike some other components
I just upgraded to am5 and ddr5…. Had to upgrade psu so we’re chilling on 1000W now. Not having that happen again lol
@@phil_maticIt's fair to over spec, but honestly unless you're running a xx90 card, you're probably fine with 850w max PSU.
Regarding PSUs, PC Builder said in one video that you actually should conservatively overspec it to account for transient power spikes coming from your GPU. He recommended plugging all of your parts into PC Part Picker, looking at the wattage, and then multiplying that by 1.5x. I did so for my future build, with the wattage at 686w, so I multiplied by 1.5, and got 1029w. So, I currently plan to have a Corsair RMe Series RM1200e.
My planned build for this June has the following:
* Case: NZXT H9 Flow (White)
* Motherboard: Gigabyte X670 Gaming X AX V2
* CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
* GPU: XFX Speedster MERC310 Radeon RX 7900 XTX
* PSU: Corsair RMe Series RM1200e
* Cooler: Phanteks Glacier One 360D30 Premium (White)
* RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo Series 32GB (White)
* Primary Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 2TB
* Secondary Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 4TB
* Fans: 7x Phanteks D30-120 (White)
* Thermal Paste: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
I also included a Logitech G502 HERO (wired because I don't want to have to constantly buy AA batteries), and a 1440p KTC curved monitor.
Am I making the right choice, or are transients not something I should be worried about?
A bit late, but a quality power supply should be able to handle transients, especially if it's a newer model with an ATX 3.0 connector which per the spec should be able to handle transients double the rated power supply output.
Valid points. But at the same time, aesthetics plays such a big role in people’s preferences too. And companies take advantage of that of course.
Small note: pcpartpicker will only give you a total wattage, not a recommendation. You would still need to do math to make sure you get one that has that 20-50% overhead power.
I thought power supplies are most effecient at like half their load too maybe not worth over speccing still
@@viking9442 its 70% atleast it was in the old days.
@@viking9442they best between 50-90%
most of the time your actual system wattage isn't even close to the total possible wattage your components can pull when 100% loaded. in the overwhelming majority of the time, it's _either_ your gpu or your cpu that's loaded near-100% (but rarely actually reaching that amount), and the other component is chugging along at like half power at most. unless you're running a 30-series gpu with the crazy transients of that generation, there's no need to have that much psu headroom on top of nominal tdp numbers. i ran a 4090 on a 650W psu for like nine months and even when i got crashes that felt like ocp, they turned out to just be case heatsoak.
most psus are the most efficient if you use them at half of their rated wattage, but if you're speccing them just above the combined theoretical maximum your components can pull, what you'll get in practice will be very close to that half power. my pc with the 4090 and a 7800x3d pulls like 450W from the wall when running a game but that includes 3x 27" 1440p monitors that are also on the same meter. the pc itself is likely closer to 350-400, which is _exactly_ where you want to be with a 750W psu.
if you were to overspec to a 1000W or above, like you're recommending here, it would not only be a massive waste of money, it would also knock the system completely outside the efficient range of the psu, unless it's running a full synthetic load
i ran 5600g + 5600xt on a 450W PSU. calculated supply was 310W on pcpartpicker. but that doesnt calculate the case fans and the usb peripherals.
blew up a couple of capacitors and fried the back of the pcb ( of PSU ).
to sum it up don't try to push it to the limit for a prolonged time. 100W headroom is more than enough.
I bought a 1000W Corsair supply in 2013. It's still right here, chugging along. I think a *bit* of extra dosh into the quality of something as critical as the PSU can very easily give its ROI
But you could have spent 50-100aud on a basic 500W PSU that still runs most normal midrange builds, over the same time period... Btw what was the return?
I disagree about the "overspend" on PSUs. 500W does not cut it. You can barely run an RX 6700 XT, Ryzen 7 5700X or higher. The thing with modern PCs is you want to minimize upgrades. A 750W PSU is the sweetspot. I have an RX 7800 XT, Ryzen 7 5700X and I use a lot of my USB ports. I wouldn't even recommend a 600W for a modern gaming PC.
EDIT: I also want to mention that the price difference of a 600W PSU and a 750W PSU isn't a big difference. In fact you'll save money when you get a 750+W Gold PSU to use for the entire life of your PC then to buy a 600W, realize it isn't enough when you want to upgrade and then you need to buy another PSU. Think smart. Work hard and smart. Get paid and have a good PC that lasts a long time.@@RexNathanChan
I have a 2600 (65W), RX480 (150W) or Vega56 (210W). Add in LSI HBA cards, HDD, fans, mb/RAM, thats max 300W? So for me, a 350W PSU will be fine, but you can only buy min 450W. I am using a BeQuiet System Power 9 500W PSU.
Most normal people keep their systems the same for 5+ years, so it makes economic sense to buy the minimum you need for your current system. Are you gonna re-use a 10y old PSU when you upgrade in 10yrs or buy a new one? A basic 500W PSU is $60-100AUD, vs $200+ AUD for 750W+ monsters.
Sure, if you have a high TDP CPU (100W?) and high end GPU (3080 needs 350W), then min 500W makes sense, perhaps buying a 600W is ok. also PSU gets less efficient running at low loads, so you will draw more power from the wall in an oversized PSU@@noobbotgaming2173
Using your example: RX6700XT (230W), 5700X (65W), thats total 300W, plus extras, say 350-400W actual draw at max, So a 450-500W PSU will be fine. I think you greatly over-estimate how much power you need, or have not done the calcs. :P RX7800XT TDP is only 263W, add 100W for max CPU, still only draw 400-450W, so 500-550W PSU is fine.
BTW how does USB ports matter? Can you draw rthat much from USB 3.0 or USB-C?
ok, I looked up USB standard on wiki and without PD (power delivery), mac USBC is 15W, so say 6x 7.5W USBA ports plus 2x 15W USBC=75W@@noobbotgaming2173
@@RexNathanChan Every PSU matters. Extra room is always nice to have. I don't understand the bare-minimum-upgrade-later mentality. Like I said with the cheap prices of PSUs you may as well save time and money and buy a higher watt PSU.
My current PC has an RX 7800 XT. When I first had my computer I had a 450W PSU. RX 580 and Ryzen 5 3600. Kept crashing during gaming until I figured out my PSU was too low. So I upgraded to 600W and no more crashes.
And I live in Canada and even with our prices the PSU is not an expensive purchase.
Watch two of your videos, subscribed. Practical and useful information, thank you for your time and efforts.
Very useful video mate. I have always been on the "breadline" when it comes to buying pc parts and have been since I started pc gaming in the 1980's. One good thing about having nothing to waste financially is you soon realise the easiest way to save money is to use your brain and learn more. Win win situation.
Cases! I have a fractal pop case that I love for the fact there is no hideous branding all over it, plus it has room for ocptical drives. Yeah I'm an old boomer and I still use one. It's plain, and simple. It's like the trend of the fish tank cases, and built in LCD screens. They look great, but in the end your not gonna be staring at your case all day long or looking at the LCD screen built into the case. I'ts like AIO's with a screen built into them. A waste of money. I use air cooling too, cheaper more reliable and really don't fail.
These are the ways to cut spending on a build.
How often do y use an optical drive?
@@AB-80X Does it matter? Some of us like to watch DVDs at our desk or backup files to a CD-ROM.
@@md_vandenberg Even if you dont want it, fractal makes decent cheap cases either way. Love my fractal mesh c
I'm in a gamer's group on facebook and I was telling a guy who was new to PC world to stay the heck away from anything that has the word "Gaming" in it from big box stores. It was like I was speaking Greek. I was saying that they add the word "Gaming" so they can raise the price on you. Stunned silence.
Stay away from all gaming gpus then
@@goochipoochieI guess you were stunned into silence by the op. 😂
Yeah uh there are exceptions to this when it comes to motherboards and gpus
I just had a similar conversation with a random guy in best buy. I was getting some replacement ram for my failed ddr5 way to fast ram that croaked. Got it on sale. He was upgrading a ddr4 based system and was going to buy the more expensive faster mhz gamers ram vs the 200 mhz slower ram that had way better timings and size without the fluff rgb crap.
@@shawnmcandrew6923 There comes a point where you can't get some people to see clearly because they have their emotions involved versus their logic. So nothing but the exact candy they want will satisfy them. I'll admit that my rig has so much light that it's blinding and that includes the PSU, GPU, accessories and the monitor. But it's not because I ever paid the high retail "Gaming" prices for any of it.. I'm a 2nd-hand and after market enthusiast. That was all I'm saying
God I love this channel, it's just frank and honest. Big thanks to Jay and the team.
Per this Channel recommendation I purposely put RGB as a non essential category when I built my second PC as well as having it air cooled and it works fantastic! Thanks!
The primary advantage of SSDs over HDDs isn't really the transfer rates because of how rarely those matter, but the IOPs - how quickly different files / data blocks can be accessed. Because of this even SATA SSDs still work fine for most applications, so if you get yourself a 1500MB/s+ NVMe you'd need direct comparison to even notice.
Video work which many amatuer enthusiasts do - it saves a lot of time to move , analyse apply filters , re-encode etc . Given a file can be 50Gb or so
@@nimblegoat Re- and encoding usually doesn't reach a SATA SSDs limits due to the strain of encoding and resulting low data rates, but you are right regarding video editing or moving large files. But for this to matter you'd have to do so regularly, and probably need a strong expensive graphics card to help with the encoding, which is when adding a few bucks for a fast SSD won't matter anymore.
I moved to SSD primarily for the sound. Or lack of. But I guess they might've gotten quiter.
@@l3lue7hunder12 that's true - My encoding program , demuxes the video first , of audio streams etc , Others do that during the encoding so not noticeable. So good to have at least 2 M2 drives , as apparently not meant to trash SSD drives , Have an old PC I boot up once and awhile to rip a CD - It has an old Samsung pro 840?? 256Gb - hammered that thing . Tools are meant to work
I can easily tell the difference between a SATA SSD and an NVME drive. Comparing the two is like comparing a SATA HDD to a SATA SSD. It's a night and day difference.
I'd add CPU cooler is one as well. A cheap AIO costs like double a quality Air cooled and unless you're at the top of line processor or overclocking it is purely for looks.
overpriced rgb corsair aios that have ok preformace Yeah or Arctic liquid freezer 3 420mm rad (non rgb) which just released and like the previous as of rn it's the best aio on the market and less than 100 usd and that's the largest rad. 240-360mm is 75-90 usd
thermalright sells 50€ AIOs nowadays that believe it or not, perform better than some 120+€ pieces of garbage from brands like NZXT or corsair.
@thermalright ftw best perf/$. Arctic is also great.
some of the aios are obscenely stupid. $200 even up to $300. And they'll barely beat a $35 thermalright air cooler. The air cooler will also outlive it. So, what are you even buying ?
Do you just hope they support future sockets. I know noctua will, but do the others.
me who using arctic friezer sport duo on x3d 😉😉😉
It all depends on what coolers you get. I just got a 120mm corsair AIO at Best Buy yesterday for 90 bucks. But I just ordered the DeepCool Assassin 4 Premium for 100 bucks.
I agree with the first one for people who buy all their parts at once (or can do that, rather). I upgrade piece by piece, however. Started with a 1050 laptop, traded for a 1070 and an FX series cpu computer with a crapping out 750w, upgraded to 1k for when I upgrade the parts. Then went to a 2600x and 6600xt, then a 5900x, and now finally a 7800xt, that's in a Fractal Design 7 XL, and I do plan on using the hard drive space and/or potentially turning it into a dual xeon or threadripper setup, so I wanted higher wattage. That psu is also just one I expect to last me a decade or so. So, good advice, but dependent.
Your comment on gpus just got me to spend $100 less on a 7800xt though. Sapphire ftw.
Overwatch is the only game I've cared about my load speeds for, for picking chars... I stopped caring a few years ago. Lol.
Damnit! RGB is my answer. I have NONE OF IT as well as a COMPLETELY OPAQUE case. Lol.
Awesome video. Thanks for doing this Jay.
“Gaming”, “Pro” is always an eye catcher. But being a car guy myself what always gets me is “carbon”. But then msi comes out with mobo with a combo of all 3
Outside of RGB and what you mentioned, I'd say AIO. Unless it's really about making the most silent setup, the air cooling is just enough. Already overly sized air cooler is like 66% of the price of cheap AIO, and the cheap AIO probably won't be so silent (and actually performant), at least after some of the coolant evaporates, so... just buy the PA 120 or similar and you are good.
And then we have case fans. You don't need to fill up all the slots. Just have 2 in and 1 out.
with this, when i build a pc, i like a strong cpu, mid to high gpu. in my mind, aio are worth it because it removes the heat from the cpu mixing withg the heat from the gpu, meaning i dont need some special cooled gpu. if it were cheaper to water cool my gpu and just as easy. id do that instead.
If you know that something solves your issue then of course - go for it. But most of the time AIO is not needed. So if one seeks to save some bucks, a regular cooler is perfectly fine.
@@mars_12345 im going to be building a 14900k rig soon. im pretty sure, the heat from that thing would saturate my rig and not help the gpu thats also in there. in my head, pushing any and all that cpu heat way out the way is far better. not to solve a problem, but to improve multiple points of the build. that and i dont think the top tier air cooler is going to be far from the cost of a low or mid tier aio
Computers that are used for video production or audio studio recording using digital audio workstations, require fast interpretation of the files converting analog to digital signals, then process the signal, then process it back from digital to audio to listen to the result. That turnaround time turns into latency which we try to minimize having a faster CPU , faster ram, becomes critical when your session musicians are coming in to listen to the music they have to play along with. It's sometimes it can be a lifesaver that have over spec your computer rather than under spec it.
Thanks to the electronics bin in my area, I have a (few) very modest msi mini board equipped with the i7-4770s CPU and 16 gigs of ram. I've had all kinds of computers I've either put together and given away or put up in storage and haven't spent the first red cent on any of them, which now looking back on it, is freaking amazing in itself. Wow
I’ve gamed on console my whole life and still do but have the itch to build a pc and join the top g’s. I e been doing my research before I build one. Thanks to your videos I feel confident! Thank you for that and keep the videos coming! Great content
What is your budget?
There are ways to be sub $600 but you're going all used.
@@MrAnimescrazy don’t really have one. I have a good idea of what I’d like and know how overkill it is. I want the ryzen x3d and a 4090. Fast ddr5 liquid cooled. The phanteks nv5 case. Everything in my shopping cart comes to around 7500
@@MrAnimescrazy that’s in Canadian
@Killstreak4052 I would say to buy the build that you have in your cart. Can you list all of your parts? I have my first all white high end build with the gigabyte aero oc 4090/ 7800x3d/ 64 gigs of ddr5 in the white phanteks nv7 I built last year. I only use the pc for gaming and the pc is a beast. I clean the pc once a month and I use my 65 inch 4k LG c1 oled tv so I am limited to 120 fps but I can get a lot more especially if I use dlss3 but I dont use any upscalers because I dont need to. I play at native 2k or native 4k with or without ray tracing depending on the game.
I'm glad you used Corsair in your over-priced examples. I read a complaint online about their high prices. A Corsair rep's response was, "then don't buy it." So I don't.
Corsair has some of the best and affordable power supplies. Not sure where you're getting your information lol. A Silverstone PSU is twice the price of a Corsair équivalent fyi.
You didn't properly understand what he was talking about if all you got from that section was "well he means Corsair are overpriced" which wasn't his point at all.
@@bigpoppa1234 he said high prices, compared to other manufacturers for pc HARDWARE, they are much cheaper. Also high prices is unfortunately the new norm it's not just Corsair, everyone has hiked up prices.
P.S. read his first sentence :).
I almost got one of their white rgb ddr5s lol. Goood thing they were overpriced af lol. Got a cheaper white non rgb ram instead. No ragrets.
Higher quality means lasts longer, easier to use saves time also worth money, less hassle of having to return/replace defective trash is also a time saver and therefore saves money. Time is money fyi.
Thanks for being so honest and making this video. But personally I was very well aware of that years ago.... That's why It took me more than 5 years with My Dell Optiplex 7700 I(7 3700) 16GB RAM and a The Old Samsung EvO 256GB SSD SATA..
I only switched GPU for years... Now I Have a Lenovo Laptop With RX6850M. Ryzen 9.... 32GB RAM .2TB SSD. And I won't change it anytime soon...
What great, and incredibly helpful content for newbies or those of us that are re-discovering our passion for PC building (I have forgotten more acronyms than you can imagine, being a certified OG).
But to your question on my opinion of wasted money in a build.
I would nominate Monitors.
for years now, I have used as big and capable of a TV as I could afford and have saved major $ doing so. I am currently rocking 55" LG tv and it is amazing. Granted, I don't play games at 150+ FPS, but hey, what I do play I really enjoy. Driving games are fantastic with such a huge field of view.
Anyway, I'm sure that I'll get roasted by everyone that spent major cash on their (small) curved monitors, but for better or for worse that is my opinion.
Great vid, this is exactly what ive been trying to tell my friends who were building their pcs, a lot of people still overspec their mobo and cooler and crazy case and cheap out on the GPU.
Sorry but it's not always true. At some point I changed mine case for more expensive one. And from cleaning it 5 times a year from dust. I just clean filters once or twice a year. I was so amazed that in can be so clean for so long without cleaning.
@@evan-du3vk Now you will have to tell me the model cause i need this.
There is a 4th Major category with RAM to consider besides capacity, speed, and timings and that is VOLTAGE. If you buy the wrong voltage RAM and set it to the rated speeds it can cause you to BSOD or Crash randomly.
I would love a memory video comparing speeds, transfer rates, and timings! CL rating is a fairly new concept to me
Excellent info! Im not a builder, i buy pre built. But this is my state of mind when i shop for PCs or anything really. Thanks for the video. Really great insights! ⌨️💻🎮🤖👍
We have 2 sides of wasting money. One is buying overly expensive stuff, the other is buying overly cheap stuff.
Biggest waste of money is people not building for their use case. Cool if you have the money, but it just irks me when I help build systems with really high spec intels, Ryzen 9s or the new XDs, insane amount of ram, and 4090s only to run Minecraft, Fortnite, Lethal, etc. everything set to max and they’re using less than a fraction of what their specs have to offer, and fact of the matter is they never even get close.
That and building a monster machine for 4k, then forgetting to have room in budget to upgrade from 1080p monitor. whoops
I am your worst enemy, I'm currently saving up this year to be able to buy an rtx 5090 system with a 4k240hz oled/woled/qdoled... monitor. so that I can play overwatch 2. I already have a gaming laptop that gets 165fps on high settings.
This 💯. I shed a single tear when someone gets an enthusiast grade GPU and their main game is something that can run on a toaster. I myself though can't imagine spending $1000+ on a GPU and I play stuff that is far more demanding.
@@mysticking16 I’m with you there. I only bumped up when I got super serious into flight sims and vr stuff. Like said, if ya got the money well cool but still pains the soul a little 😂
@@theslayermate3466 I feel like people don't want to do their homework and will just spend the most money possible on whatever their buying. I hate to judge but I have a friend that has a Ryzen 9 and a 3090ti and his main game is overwatch 2. He does play at 4k though but is barely using half of the total vram. He does also have cities skylines 2 though.
@@Joe_Payne if you're going for 4k240 I can respect that. What really gets under my skin is when people spend thousands and underutilize their PC.
yeah, would like a video on the ram, differences in performance, unpacking files, benchmarks, games, between 16/32/64GB ram, and speeds, and timings :)
LOL, just in middle of your rant on "gaming something" YT decided to show me an ad of gaming chair :D
All really good tips. Don't forget that you can upgrade items later on, the main thing is to just get a good motherboard out of the gate that will allow you to upgrade later on. Don't overspend on GPUs and CPUs... Those can get upgraded later (AMD has been good in recent history about keeping the same socket for a decent amount of time).
Isnt that the problem then? "Upgrade later". When is later, and when is the upgrade? Am I overspending now, or am I "upgrading"? When will it ever end, how do you conclude you are overspending or "futureproofing"?
The one tip is not to get the latest CPU or GPU unless it has features that the current generation doesnt have. And thats up to debate even.
Even motherboards that are 500-600 bucks are a waste of money for most people especially when processors come out every year and they change sockets every 2-3 years. The only thing I saw I with an expensive mb is ability to have higher speed ram and a little more i/o. As well as 2 8 pin cpu connectors instead if an 8 pin and a 4 pin. The high speed ram 8000 for example is probably not going to be achieved even with the 14900k and you wont notice it in games.
Regarding RAM: A lot of new, popular games (such as Warzone) show noticeable benefits with 32GB. And for transfer speeds, you want 6000mhz if you're on Ryzen. Not more, not less. This is where it syncs with the infinity fabric, it's as good as it gets without going really deep into overclocking the fabric.
I use the g.skill flare x5 32gb cl 30 6000 MT/s with my 7900x3d.
Yeah the question should be do you need 64? 32 is the standard minimum these days. Titles such as DCS World .. or Docker! .. can greatly benefit.
@@JSmith73 you don't need 32 for 1080p if you don't stream.
@@Ghorda91080p is what you play at when you're stuck with a 10 year old hand-me-down. No one is building a new PC to game at 1080p.
@@conduit64 you build a new pc to play recent games.
Built my first computer in 2020. My specs:
CASE: Lian Li 011 Dynamic Evo
MOBO: Gigabyte x570s Aorus Master
CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x
GPU: ROG STRIX RTX 3080
PSU: Corsair RM850x
RAM: G.Skill DDR4 4x8 32gb 3600
AIO: Corsair H150 360mm
OS SSD: 1TB Crucial
STORAGE HDD: 6TB Western Digital.
GAMING SSD: 2TB Crucial.
Yeah... I probably wasted some money somewhere... But I like the aesthetics of my PC and a person should enjoy it. If they are going to be looking at it, day in, day out. I want to be able to say "Hell yeah!" when I look at it, and not. "I wish I had this..."
I actually had the x570, but one of the modules on it stopped working and wouldn't turn on anymore. Thankfully it was under warranty. They didn't have the x570 in at that time, so I got upgraded to the x570s. Lucky me.
Other than replacing stuff that breaks... I probably won't fully upgrade anything till 2030.
Great line up of how not to waste money on a PC. I just upgraded/full rebuild and I think I spent maybe $800 to go from a 6 year old AMD Ryzen 7 1700 to the Ryzen 5 7600X and a mobo pci 5 capable but not really needed for the storage speed. The only thing I noticed was the new AMD 7000's AM5's run toasty! I don't have a water cooler on it but I may get one, maybe, AMD said these can go 95C that's crazy!
I spend more than 1000$ on custom watercooling stuff, and i can state, that it was a waste of money. No performance gain, good air-cooled systems are more simple to use. The only i get is aesthetic and assembling fun.
Should have just went with aio.
Aesthetic gain for no improvement.
Money better saved or spent on better parts.
@@LeoInterVirAIOs aren't nearly as aesthetically and DIY pleasing as built from scratch water cooling. Also, those are less serviceable. Of course, they are a lot more cash-intensive.
So I went with an AIO, but that was me
There is a performance gain cuz you can overclock further
Also why tf did you spend 1k on it that is so unnecessary
@@deher9110 2 watercooled PCs. Waterblocks, pumps, radiators, tubes, tools and stack of fittings.
@@deher9110no performance gain for their use case obviously. There are lazy people like me who got an AIO expecting miracles, and I was disappointed enough to just swap back to a Noctua tower cooler when I got a new CPU. We don't all want to tinker.
some motherboards are also overpriced...
Thought about an idea for a video that might be interesting. People can list out their specs and some of their use cases and you can suggest upgrades that may optimize their systems. I haven't upgraded my PC in a while and I don't think I really *need* to, but I'm starting to get the build itch so I'd love to take a look at some tweaks I could make.
The dominator RAM/SET is so much fun to look at, especially in combination with an ASRock motherboard and hardware lighting, One of the best things I ever bought ! =D
Thank you for bringing up power supplies. The 80-plus rating is also dependant on the load, so if you go big and only utilise 20%, you are getting worse then 80% efficiency. So many times I have built or rebuilt a PC for people just to have them say they need 1200w for everyday workload just because it is futureproof.
Most current GPUs are barely using the double bandwidth provided via Gen 4 vs Gen 3 slots. Benchmarks have showed between 0 percent and 4 percent improvements. Nvme storage drives will vastly improve though, and they're dmoking fast now!
Definitely would love to see a video that does a deep dive into RAM. I had no idea that the timings really even mattered.
Jay pls talk about rams differences and which is best for what your doing or want to do with the pc..
Timming and speed etc.
You are really good at it, thank you!
You do a really good job advocating for the consumer and how confusing it can be to shop in this field.
10 year old i7 Skylake build with a 1070. Still runs everything I play at over 75 fps. That does me given the 5 grand price for a new system here in Australian dollars.
My home built PC is over 12 years old and works fine. I see no need to ever replace it. I did replace the hard drive with an SSD about 3 years ago. If anything else needs to be replaced someday, I can easily do that.
I'm old enough to remember when computer's cases were simple non-windowed boxes meant to hold the components.
That all flashing colors out from computer's components coming out from your windowed case are very nice but does not make your computer faster making your computer another decorative item in your room.
That Strix vs Founders edition definitely hit me, lol.
I think it's my biggest waste of money (theoretically) on my setup.
But it's because I had no access to getting a Founder's Edition (I wanted one so badly, it's so much smaller in size but just as powerful) so I had to go with the Strix than the other brands.
Would love to see the same analysis for production oriented rigs. Like 3d modelling / rendering, photo editing etc
I use my computer for audio production and gaming. Hardware requirements for both of these can overlap quite a bit.
Some thoughts:
I would get the highest wattage PSU at the best price-per-watt value. I'll explain why.
For reference, I have an AMD Ryzen 9 3950x, 128 gb Corsair DDR4 RAM, 8 gb Sapphire Radeon HD 5700XT Nitro+ on an ASUS Crosshair VIII Hero motherboard. It is powered by a Seasonic Prime 1300 watt power supply. All of this is in a Fractal EATX compatible desktop tower case. It has 4 5.25" bays and 8 3.5"/2.5" bays.
I built the system about five years ago and it is still going strong. So I am something of a power user. My systems cost several thousand dollars new, but I also expect them to last 10+ years across two or even three OS generations on the same hardware.
IMO, you can never go too far over in wattage as far as a power supply, especially when many Seasonic PSUs are warrantied for 12 years. You could easily run two systems into obsolescence using the same PSU. These PSUs are expensive up front at $300+ but over the long term they are a very good value.
Additionally, for audio production, one often needs multiple HDDs/SSDs running simultaneously: one drive for OS/DAW/plugins, one for sampled instruments, and a third drive to record to. Add on game drives and general storage drives, as well as alternative OS boot drives (I have Windows 10 on 2.5" SSD and Windows 11 on NVME), and suddenly the number of drives for the PSU to power increases quickly.
I currently have 8 drives and 1 optical drive running on my system with room for up to 20 drives if I use an ASUS NVME PCI-e card, 5.25" to 3.5"/2.5" bay adapters, and a SATA controller expansion card. It is much easier to use all of this internally than to fuss with external enclosures that require external power and often run more slowly than internal drives.
Most importantly, adding more power also stabilizes your system from unexpected freezes/crashes when demand for resources spikes.
This demand usually happens when web browsing. I have often had hundreds of browser tabs open with the intention of going back to read their pages but I never do. It is easy to fall into bad habits and leave those tabs open rather than bookmark them or consult history.
An annoying problem is Google Chrome becoming ever less efficient and using 100+ mb of RAM or more just to display a static webpage. This is nonsense. So you need more memory in there if you do a lot of web browsing and want to leave everything open instead of revisiting bookmarks and history.
What needs to change is graphics cards being so power hungry. New top of the line cards use as much wattage as an entire basic 300 watt power supply from 10-15 years ago.
Where does the need for more power end and more efficiency with less heat begin? Where will power supply wattage ratings be in 10-20 years?
When browsing a single webpage alone uses 100s of mbs of memory and when a PC uses more power than many heavy duty home appliances, it's time to start rethinking efficiency in software optimization and system components.
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Individually sleeved cables aren't cheap and you don't get more performance with them, but i would recommend those for smooth installation.
When I first really invested in my system, I was running some seriously high overclocks and really needed the platinum reliability. However, my most recent MOBO/CPU upgrade changed things. I've found that I can get the overclock I'm looking for, but I'm actually getting better performance and higher boost clocks, when I only enable D.C.O.P for my memory and let the motherboard do the rest. The only thing I have changed at this point is setting the allowed power draw to the max. I also think my processor is going to last longer, because without a manual overclock, I'm running a much lower clock and lower voltage when I'm not gaming. Now I'm not sure I need my next power supply to be platinum. I might go for gold next time.
Yes please do a video of covering the timings vs speed for gaming systems - a few titles do love RAM speed it seems from tests - but how does it stack up with timing vs speed?
Yes a video of ram would be helpful, I still struggle to get the right ram for my Rif
Even stock gpus are absolutely valid, had a stock vega64 the silver brick looking one and it was glorious. Upgraded to a sapphire nitro 7900xtx last year since it's been 6 years but my experience with vega was phenomenal.
Even doubled as a heater during winter but that's not dependent on the cooler.
Oh also one more thing, looking at the current offerings and not buying on release stuff is also completely valid. Really new releases have their own issues that get patched over time and their pairings can often be unreleased. Like I said got the 7900xtx and wanted to pair it with 7800x3d had to wait half a year for it to come out. In the end due to my fucked up regional pricing and my impatience ended up with the 7950x3d, not even that more expensive than the 7800x3d ended up being -.- Although lots of this has to do with the lingering effects of the price jump on pc stuff. I really do hate my local retailers tho.
Jay We love you, regards from Mexico!
I really needed to hear the phrase "without a fps counter you will not notice a difference". In the process of looking up a replacement for my asus ROG from 2016 since, while it still runs everything, i it wont run it nicely on high settings...heck even medium is a strech. The only things i would not compromise on is the display ( needs an 17'3 inch or larger) and a 4070 or 3080 videocards. Well dual channel ram aswell. But, i can compromise on the rest. Only reason i am thinking of these video cards is cuz in my mind, if a gtx980 stuck with me for almost 8 years now, im hoping a 3080 or 4070 will be enough for 5-6 years aswell. Dunno where i was going with this rant, but nice informative video :)))
I tend to go all out on my builds because I don't build a new system very often, and when I do, the old one gets handed down to my wife or kids... so it's worth it for me to make sure it's gonna be a good build for 5 or 6+ years. Running a 4090 with a 13900k and 64gb ram right now. The ram is def overkill, but I enjoy being able to have other things open while I'm gaming with no impact, not uncommon for me to be around 60% ram useage.
Thank you so much Jay. This was very helpful. Can you recommend a good budget CPU? Thank you