HOW TO: 02-07 Grizzly 660, Engine Side, Rear Driveshaft Oil Seal Replacement.
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- As the tittle states, I will be be showing you how to replace the rear driveshaft oil seal (same procedure for carrier bearing replacement as well)
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I have a Rhino 660 that I jut picked up and the previous owner said it had an oil leak he couldn't fix so he sold it for a good price. This was the seal involved. Thanks for showing the fix.
Amazing video, very informative, very good style. Man thanks so much... spend 3+ hours trying to figure out 1 dumb thing haha... finally found the 1 video that shows someone taking the diff actually out of the frame. THANKS!
Thanks for the video! A great help. We just repaired 2 Grizzlies today.
Were are you located?
great video. very good detail every step of the way. Thanks for the very informative how too.
Excellent video. Well done.
Thanks for this video!
Thank you!
Good video, post one up if you ever the rear seal of the front diff on the 660.
thanks man
Good job on the video/edit. A lot of how to videos on the web really lack the detail and camera angles you need to show people exactly what your doing. I'm sure this is going to help a lot of people out there, these type of DIY vids always seem to get a ton of views.
Thank you. I tried to make sure that i covered all the basis when i made this one. I also like hearing feedback because i find its the only way to improve these types of videos.
Wish me luck! Thanks .
Hey great video I messaged you awhile back about some issues with my rear diff on my 05 660 well I took it out and tore it apart and what happened is the pinion bearing failed and took out the roller bearing inside the case so that explains my metal issue lol only thing left is the outer race which has a lip on it but it’s very thin so I’m not sure how to get that out inside the case it’s the bearing the pinion shaft tip fits into. I believe maybe with a little propane heat and a blind bearing puller u might have a chance at it. Heard of guys chiseling the outer race out
Total Canadian. lol. That’s how we make a proper video. Princess auto, mastercrap, but I didn’t see any Timmies buy. lol. Anyways, good video! If my 07 ever needs changing, I know where to look!
You can use a muffler clamp on the engine side and just tap it out like a car
Hi is grizzly 450 do have same way to remove seal got mine leaking toothanks gr8 vids
I wish you had a video on a 96 kodiak transmission repair. your very detailed. I can't find any help anywhere on the Internet.
What is it your transmission is doing? or have you already dug into it? Its hard for me to diagnose anything without seeing it myself, but I may be able to suggest something to try.
Can you replace a front u joint with out pulling the front diff??
It appears I was half asleep when I created the tittle card for this video. It should read "Driveshaft" not drivershaft...wow. Midnight on a work day is too late to be working on a video.
Wish you could show removing driveshaft from rear differential
if that seal went twice , you may have a plugged breather and/or piston blow-by
my 700 powermax not leaking at the motor side but the other end and my cablier is heating up and oil everywhere
Do I have to remove all this just to change drive shaft only ?
Amigo esa pieza se puede rectificar
I was just wondering what symptoms or noise would a grizzly make if the center bearing was going bad? on mine I noticed it was working harder to get going and I noticed play on the drive shaft so I pulled the rear diff out and it was shot so I put a new one in but seems something seems to be clicking when I take off sometimes and definitely when I turn left. I just don't want the same thing happening to the new diff. just wondering if anyone has experienced this type of issue before?
Would this be the same in the rhino 660? I’ve got the same issue going on.
Amigo esa pieza que tienes en la mano el eje que va añadido al disco como se llama ese eje y donde encaja
Great video. Thanks. I would have liked to see you reinstall seal (someone who knows nothing).
Also you did not show removing the cup.
Ross. At 9:55 I show putting an impact on the 22mm nut and removing the drive cup.
I see your point on the beginner side of the seal replacement, however this particular seal I just pressed in by hand without tools. It will not bottom out on any lip so be careful. just match the outer seals position flush to the casing.
Great video. When you reinstalled the cupler did you use the impact or a ratchet/torque wrench? If torque wrench, what ft lb.
If you mean the final drive pinion gear on the engine side its to be torqued to 50 ft lbs.
thank you sir!
Awesome vid man! I got everything out but the replacement seal seems to be too big even though the part# matched. Is there a trick to installing the new seal?
If its the correct part number then it will fit but its very tight. It needs to be to hold the oil in.
Try using some motor oil on the outside lip of the seal start on one side and get it jammed in and started. work yourself around evenly by pushing as even as you can to prevent it from warping.
I use a cheap seal driver kit and matched the diameter as closely as i could.
Hello ruyguy, I need to do this to my 02 660! I’ve watched your video 10 times. I kinda wanna do it myself! Is the front seal the same size as the rear, because I think my dealer ordered the wrong one! We were looking at the front of the quad I think because the front has a u joint for a shaft. He said the rear has a u joint in the engine! But I don’t think so! Maybe I’m wrong. I ordered one off of eBay anyways. Are the axles hard to get out of the diff? Also is the 22mm nut backwards threads or righty tighty, lefty loosy? Thank you very much!!
Hi Devin
The front and rear seals will be different on accounts of the output shaft diameter sizes. The part number for the rear oil seal needed is 93102-30339-00 for the OEM updated oil seal number.
If you are ever in doubt use this website here for parts breakdowns www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038f36f870021f60a0c722/middle-drive-gear
The axles are set inside the diffs via spring clips, make sure they are a straight pull away from the diff and you should be free in a few light pulls.
The 22mm nuts are all standard threaded, not reversed. Good luck with the repairs and thanks for stopping by
Do you keep the machine in park or neutral when you remove and install the nut for the drive cup?
Douglas. I kept the transmission in Park. The torque to remove that nut holding the drive spline cup was very low, so i didn't feel there was any threat to the gearing.
I have a 2010 hisun chase 700 4x4 I was told that a 2006 yamaha rhino 660 is the same what about a yamaha grizzly 660 could I use the motor out of a grizzly 660 for my side-by-side?
Part numbers on the engine cases are not the same so none of the mounts will line up. That Hisun is a Chinese clone owned by the Chongqing Huansong Industrial (Group) Co... the same as the old Cub Cadet Challengers are after Yamaha sold the Rhino design with the decision to stop production on them in 2012. Those machines are clones, not the same as the Yamaha originals. While some parts may or will fit, an engine swap is probably out of the question without heavy modification
I have a 2006 yamaha rhino 660 I was just wondering if the 660 grizzly would work in my side-by-side?
It should. The crankcase part numbers are the same on both machines, but im not going to garuntee it as the motormounts may interfere in some way.
Ruyguy, Does anything hold the seal housing in/onto the trans besides the 4 bolts?
Nope. Its in there with just those, however it also houses your bearing for the rear output shaft. If you are trying to remove the housing and its stuck, be very careful as its all aluminum.
After removing the housing the metal rings on the back side of it, do u have to replace them and will it back the bike leak oiling they are bad or can they go bad
On this same ATV do you know of a O-ring that blows out a lot of oil, you can't ride it when it blows out to much oil comes out. Somewhere higher up on engine, I've got that problem. Please help if you can . Martin from Douglas, Ga.
There are quite a few seals on the engine, however if its leaking oil around the head it could just be your valve cover plugs www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038f33f870021f60a0c711/cylinder-head
thats where i have a problem now is it safe to drive and thanks
If there is not alot of play there you should be fine, however I recommend a rear diff bearing and seal rebuild kit soon. The most difficult task of the repair will be the pilot bearing and sleeve on the end of the imput shaft. Its best to try and replace all your bearings and seals at once to avoid unnecessary time taking it apart again once you have your diff out already.
Ryguy I know u messaged me on one of your videos and told me if I was rebuilding my rear diff on the 05 grizzly to stay away from all balls bearings etc?? What others other than oem are worth getting if any? Thanks ry I know you have a lot of experience and knowledge about the grizzly and I really appreciate your time just wanted to pick your brain. I believe I need a new ring gear set as well as all bearings because the top threads are buggered I seen places like parts discounter who had a ring gear pinion set for 100 bucks Yamaha it’s like 280 but don’t know if I did that and put all oem bearings back in other than the gear set if it will have issues
I've used Parts discounter for a few smaller items. Most of the products (If not all) all come from chinese or indian manufacturers. The Quality of both part and steel is less than what you'll find with Yamaha OEM parts made from higher tensile steel in Japan. If your on a budget, then stay with parts discounter and other aftermarket manufacturers. Just be prepaired to modify the parts as i've experiences poor fittiment in the past. They work.. just don't be shocked if they don't fit 100% out of the box.
For the Bearings, stick with SKS, FAG, NSK, TIMKIN, or NTN. Are all the ones im farmiliar with but have always had good luck. I've had multiple pre-mature failures along with out of the box failures as soon as they where installed of All Balls bearings. Im just lucky i didnt use any engine bearings. They where all driveline products that failed.
Start with matching the bearings and seals aftermarket to save some money, then buy what you have to for OEM.
@@ruyguy8888 thanks for the info brother much appreciated! Yeah I wouldn’t of trusted aftermarket engine bearings either too much of a risk. Was thinking of getting a used rear end but I’ll more than likely have to rebuild it anyway so I’d be back at square one. I got all 3 bearings out actually there’s 4 including that pinion roller bearing. Down to the outer race on that it chewed the inner race and most of the needles fell out
@@ruyguy8888 wonder if that pilot bearing puller would work, I just used a bit of heat for a couple bearings the case bearing same thing happened chewed inner up and I just ripped the cage out and took all the rollers out I was lucky and got that outter race out with a brass punch and a little heat
Hi I have installed a new seal and I don't know if it should be flush with the outside or will have a stop before it hits the bearing. Any help?
flush to the outside of the case. It should not push in all the way to the bearing.
@@ruyguy8888 when you eat on the front driveline when you take off the when you pull the driveline out the front of change the u-joint do you have to put a new seal in there on the engine side
is there a bearing gone on the brake disc side
Hey Justin. Good point to check that and its something i should have mentioned when i made this vid.
I checked for play afterwards and didnt find any significant play or odd vibrations. I chalked it up to normal wear and tear, perhaps i didnt seat the first replaced seal correctly and it prematurely wore. I've put on a good 3500km's since this repair and its held just fin.
But thanks for the comment, really good point to check your play on the other end of the driveshaft before re-assembly.
You went thru whole process except the part that was the problem.
Why not at least install it?
It wasn't included because all you do is push the new seal back in flush to the casing. you don't even need a tool for that. If one needs instructions on how to do that after watching this teardown video, then i highly recommend they take their machine to a dealership or repair center.
Where did you purchase the new oil seal?
Liberty CC in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
Ok thanks
how would I get the drive shaft out of the rear diff
The rear driveshaft should just pull out of the splines if it's not rusted into them. Just pull back that rubber connection dust cover and pull on the shaft.
Ok thanks I'm doing a motor swap and I couldn't get it out of the rear diff
If it helps, slide that dust cover way up , soak the area with penetrating oil and tap on the axle in a few spots, it will loosen up.
If you can see this link its a break down of how it just slides into place
www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038f38f870021f60a0c72a/drive-shaft
Good Luck with the swap
thanks
Do you know what the rear seal part # was?
Should be Genuine Yamaha OEM# 90201-16021-00
www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038f36f870021f60a0c722/middle-drive-gear
Part 13 on this micro
Thanks
where would I order a sd30467 oil seal
please and thank you
If you are in the states, then check Babbits out. www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/l/yam/50038f33f870021f60a0c710/2002-grizzly-660-yfm660fp-parts
Here is the complete parts list for the 2002 Grizzly 660
I was just wondering what symptoms or noise would a grizzly make if the center bearing was going bad? on mine I noticed it was working harder to get going and I noticed play on the drive shaft so I pulled the rear diff out and it was shot so I put a new one in but seems something seems to be clicking when I take off sometimes and definitely when I turn left. I just don't want the same thing happening to the new diff. just wondering if anyone has experienced this type of issue before?