How to fix a Variable Speed Jointer Universal Motor Controller board Craftsman Delta or Porter Cable
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- čas přidán 28. 04. 2021
- This covers how to determine if the U2010B chip is bad and how to replace it with a socket to fix your machine. This will work on a Delta 37-070, Delta JT160, Porter Cable PC160JT, or Craftsman CMEW020. The part number for the board is 1345927. All of these machines are identical and made by Shinmax Industry Co., LTD from 1993 to present at the time of recording (2021).
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Respect to this man who spent many countless hours and in the end shared all his hard work with the CZcams community basically for nothing. Deserves a big shout out and if he is selling the replacement boards, I would buy it for my tiny jointer.
Could not agree more. He went above and beyond, respect!
Very informative, appreciate the time and effort to make this video.
However, for anyone who isn't electrical board savvy (like me) and doesn't really use the variable speed option (like me) and simply wants a running jointer again (like me)... there's a much simpler solution... bypass the board completely by hardwiring the power switch to the motor.
It sounds complex, but all it requires is connecting the 2 white wires from the board, and capping the black wire. Done. Single (full) speed jointer back in business.
No tengo palabras para agradecerte por tu ayuda pude reparar mi maquina en un país donde esta marca no tiene representación
It blows my mind how detailed and specific to the jointer problem this video is. Thank you for doing all the legwork.
Thank you for doing this work -- it was very helpful.
can you please add a link so I can print the resistance table?
where do i find the whole control unit so i don’t have to swap out the IC ?
They soldered the chip directly to the board? That's probably why so many of these things fail, they probably melted something inside the chip... was debating on picking up one of these jointers, I'll have to see if I have any of these in my chip bin (got pleanty of sockets already) if that's all that the issue is I might get one assuming I have the chip already or can find them easily online
If the socket for the IC is 14 pin, my older delta was, the board uses a U210B
Thanks! I got a 14 pin also.
Thanks for sharing this. I also have an old delta that I just realized is 14 pin. It says J27613 on the bottom.
Hi dude Can you make a universal circuit to vary the speed of motors but make it compact to fit in a not very large power tool?
After the chip is replaced how long were you able to use it before it died again, that’s if it died again? Also is there any way to bypass the variable speed and just have an on and off?
I bypassed the variable speed switch and it’s working again
I replaced my chip but it does not work, and a component is getting real hot, the smalest of the 2 large white ones, labeled 5W8K2J. You know what it is and what might cause it not to work? Thanks
Any specific part number for the chip? I just diagnosed mine and the power supply is dead. I have a few on Amazon with sockets. Thanks the video was very informative and got me straight to the problem.
U2010B
Having a very difficult time getting these chips. I received 5 today and all five appear to be bad. Do you know of a reliable vendor to obtain the U2010B chips?
I don't know of one for the DIP chips. When I was researching the video (IIRC) LCSC listed and stocked a surface mounted package with 1.27mm pitch. It would be quite easy to stick one of those on a generic DIP adapter board. I think the surface mount package is the only version of the chip still in production, so the stock may be better quality, but I do not know anything about the chip fab situation. It may just be a poor die design. There are lots of examples I came across in forums where people said they needed to keep a stock of these chips for replacement in the past when used in a production setting. The internet says a lot of things though. The first chip I replaced in my board has worked fine so far, and I have used the machine in a few projects. It may be a good idea to just do like I did in the video and order something like 15 with 5 from three different sources. Probably half will work. It really isn't that much money from AliEx, assuming you actually receive them. LCSC is probably a more reliable option, but I have not tried this.
Thank you for sharing this and the troubleshooting video. This was very helpful. I confirmed the motor is good in my delta jt160 so I'm guessing the chip is bad. I'm having trouble sourcing the ic chip and socket. Do you have extras you could ship to me? I would pay for the items and shipping.
If I Mail you two boards, can you check and repair as necessary? Happy to pay. I’m not into the electronics stuff nor do I have the tools, but I have checked as you show and the chip appears to be bad.
Can the switch be connected directly with the motor?
The board creates a significant impedance in the circuit. However, the motor is switched internally via carbon brushes which are basically low impedance resistors. They are actually quite long brushes. At best they might wear a little faster. At worst the motor windings could be undersized for the current without the controller's impedance and burn out. I think this is unlikely, but without a full published motor specification I can't say either way. I did try running it directly for a few seconds to test that my board was bad. It worked when wired directly. I can say, after swapping the chip with the first working replacement, I have not had any further issues and have used it for several projects.
I'm not well versed in this subject but my question is, why is it necessary to replace the socket? Is the replacement chip not compatible with the original socket? Please excuse my ignorance.
I believe he installed a compatible socket that way if the new chip eventually goes bad again, you can just unplug and plug a new one in, instead of having to un-solder and solder a new chip, again. Adding the socket (which is not original) is just a time saver if you have to do this procedure a second time.
@@subedei1 Thanks, I guess I missed the part about the first socket not having a replacable chip. I must be blind. Thanks.
@@rayscrafield2106 I'm not sure is was explained like that in the video, but I was looking directly at the board from my own jointer at the time, so I saw the original chip is soldered direct to the board. I you go to the trouble of unsoldering the chip for replacement, adding a socket would be beneficial for future repair. I however think I will probably just bypass the board in mine. I figure if I use it so much I wear out the brushes faster as mentioned, I probably should get a better jointer anyway, lol. Good luck!!
Is it possible to simply bypass the entire variable speed control altogether
I do not recall if this upload showed that the motor controller can be bypassed directly, but indeed I did test this briefly at one point when I was sorting out the problem.
Have you tried this yourself, and, if yes, how long term have you tried it?
I am not aware of the actual motor specifications. I am concerned about how well the motor can handle full mains current for long duty cycles. I believe the control board adds a meaningful impedance into the circuit.
Regardless, I can say, I have used the machine on multiple projects since this upload, and have not had any further issues with the control board using the first good chip I swapped out.
In my opinion the variable adjustment is rather useless. I live in a dense housing environment, and keep the speed down in hopes of keeping the machine as quiet as I can, but the difference is quite insignificant in total.
Thanks for your response. I’m taking it back for an exchange because I don’t have time to look into the fixing of it. I had the same idea that it may be too much for the motor to just hardwire it directly into the plug.
@@hollandcustomwoodworking5932 If you check out the video I made after this one (I'm not monetized and don't care). The machine is made by Shinmax and pretty much all of your new machine "bench jointer" options come from the same factory. This machine is just the entry level and oldest version available. There are some interesting product options that exist under different brand names if you know all the hardware options Shinmax actually produces. I just documented how I saw the pieces fitting together after researching the machine in depth and noting how so many machines look identical all the way down to the stamped panels the machine is made out of and small parts used for assembly.
Good luck.
-Jake
@@UpcycleElectronics so I was unsuccessful in exchanging the machine, so I brought it back home and hard wired the motor into the switch. I noticed the switch is rated for 15a and I just wired it according the the diagram I found on the side. I’m happy to report that it’s working again, however the variable function has been completely cut out of it. I never used the function anyway, so back to making sawdust! Thanks again for your help
@@hollandcustomwoodworking5932
I completely disassembled my machine far further than I showed in the video. One thing I can say is that the motor brushes are very long. So even if the extra current wears them down faster they should still last quite a while :)
Good luck, and I hope you don't have any further issues.
Can I send you my board. I think this is a little over my head.
Files:
github.com/Upcycle-Electronics/craftsman_cmew020_jointer_kicad