Video

Can you share the BOM? Especially for the connectors on the PCB for the wires?

Thanks for the video and schematics! Can you tell what connector is used on the PCB for the current measurement? (the wider one). I would like to place the same on my PCB.

Thank you for sharing, you saved me a lot of time. I would have a question. My needs are for tensions ranging 48...60V. Worth testing a simple 1 transistor tension regulator to feed the ME6203 LDO from the circuit to monitor ? I have no experience in cascading two regulators. Any clue... ?

Thankyou for the clear vid and how to do. I thought u did a great job without saying a word, was very clear to me anyway. So i collected lots of diff p supplies and had a go - i got 2 out of about 6 working. Also i found most didnt have just a simple divider to the TL. They were 2 resistors parallel and one series, combos like that. No matter which values or what combinations i removed and replaced with equiv value VR, i could never even adjust the output by more than a volt. However, with the couple i did get to work, like he stressed in the comments, the output voltage was unstable. Like, REALLY unstable the further down it goes from its designed voltage. I found once it got down near even half, it fluctuated up and down on my multimeter without even pausing, and that was without any load, ie, the output wasnt connected to anything at all, just multimeter measuring it. So i concluded, the ones i tried anyway, and with my very limited knowledge and skill, that doing this was not going to result in a new home made adjustable voltage power supply. Not something actually useful and reliable anyway, just limited use in its upper range. Near to what it was designed for. It was fun tho, and now im much more familiar with the little opto feedback to tl voltage ref section of these supplies. The supply that i had many of and thought would be the most useful when modded, i couldnt do at all. 24v, 10A, brand new boxed still, tl491, had as upper and lower resistive dividers something huge, like megohm or something, and the other so small my meter couldnt see it, like 1R or sub ohm, i cant really remember. I tried anyway, with closest VR's / pots i had, but no luck.

Has anyone had issues with the encoder messing up after a few times of using it? You have to turn it crazy fast to get the cursor to move.

Sprich doch bitte mit uns!!!

Sound vid + description all the way around..

If the socket for the IC is 14 pin, my older delta was, the board uses a U210B

Buen video, el mio tenia el código del microntrolador lijado. No sabia que usaban ese micro hasta existe un proyecto llamado sduino para programar esos micros con el ide de arduino.

Thank you for sharing this and the troubleshooting video. This was very helpful. I confirmed the motor is good in my delta jt160 so I'm guessing the chip is bad. I'm having trouble sourcing the ic chip and socket. Do you have extras you could ship to me? I would pay for the items and shipping.

where do i find the whole control unit so i don’t have to swap out the IC ?

you're genius

What happens if i dont remove the resistance r2 and only add potentiometer to r1? Thanks jake

Nice video, thank you, keep it up :)

Hol találok magyar nyelvű szoftwert hozzá?

obrigado

Thanks so much for the schematic @ 4:19. I do like the motor speed control (though it seldom sees lowered speeds), so I think I'm going to put a 16-pin IC socket for the IC, pick up 20 or so ICs, then click in anew for the inevitable failure.

If I Mail you two boards, can you check and repair as necessary? Happy to pay. I’m not into the electronics stuff nor do I have the tools, but I have checked as you show and the chip appears to be bad.

Thank you very much for this video. I had a problem with the adjustment of the guard which had broken. Just removed the lever and glue the stopper. The clip is really not easy to put back especially with the handle still on the handle :D

Very informative, appreciate the time and effort to make this video. However, for anyone who isn't electrical board savvy (like me) and doesn't really use the variable speed option (like me) and simply wants a running jointer again (like me)... there's a much simpler solution... bypass the board completely by hardwiring the power switch to the motor. It sounds complex, but all it requires is connecting the 2 white wires from the board, and capping the black wire. Done. Single (full) speed jointer back in business.

The music is great !

How to make 8v to 60v power supply from 12v 20amp china battery charger... Please make a video 😢

Pdf file sir?

Great Job !!!

Does anyone ever get one of those meters to give reliable current measurements over a wider range? Or is the design just not that good? Thank you for your work!!

The way you Opening adapter cover is wrong could be damage the rite way is just apply karocine oil aur sprite/ thinner arround the joint then tap gently with screw driver base all 4 side it will open the cover without breaking.

Thanks you!!!

Who is the artist playing “all of me” on guitar? AMAZING

दिखाई नहीं आधा अधूरा है वह पराई लगती हैजब कोई संबंध मीटर रनिंग कम्पटीशन दीपावली

i shorted some of them :D

Wow! Great work and thank you so much. I need to improve the current calibration by changing the resistor values. Could not do it without your schematics. Thanks again!

Hi dude Can you make a universal circuit to vary the speed of motors but make it compact to fit in a not very large power tool?

Why is it now nobody likes to speak on there own video. Before the only people who didn’t speak were the one who didn’t want to get in trouble. But these guys are on the up n up I don’t like when they don’t explain what there doing maybe it’s because I’m slow who knows in any case i don’t like it but good videos but can be so much better

I replaced my chip but it does not work, and a component is getting real hot, the smalest of the 2 large white ones, labeled 5W8K2J. You know what it is and what might cause it not to work? Thanks

Hey buddy are you still there I need a help ....ahhh

Super thanks brother super

Thanks for you schematic 😘

Sigh. these "I insist on no talking to the point where I slowly make note with pens IN A VIDEO?" are so tiring as a format. Seems like if you aren't going to say anything extra just provide a set of notes or a generalised schematic. You seem nice, knowledgeable and everything, but this format is annoying.

Thanks for the work, always good to know what’s going on.

Hi. I have this model of voltampmeter.but from the begining i have a zero indication about amps all the time...or 99,9 if i switch thin wires. Where should i loock,or what to check to fix the problem?

It blows my mind how detailed and specific to the jointer problem this video is. Thank you for doing all the legwork.

Muitíssimo obrigado, você salvou minha vida, estava querendo captar o sinal do amperímetro para enviar o sinal para um Arduino, mas estava com problema de conseguir o diagrama. Que você tenha muito sucesso na sua vida. 😉😃

Tenha certeza que o teu esforço ajudou muitos. Como vou utilizar para medir tensões abaixo de 10v , vou modificar o divisor de tensão do voltímetro, assim terei medição mais precisa. O ponto decimal vou ver se é mais fácil por hardware ou software. Por software, logicamente seria mais fácil, mas vou ter que fazer, já que não tenho o original. Por hardware não é difícil, mas posso acabar destruindo o circuito. Muito obrigado !

So these little lovelies are great... Thanks so much for doing this!! Can you post the schematics here? Did you have a go at getting the code out and reverse assembling it? Or is the security fuse blown? Let's face it the Chinese can't be beat for value for money ... but we could make some changes... Like removing the amps input port and hooking an Agilent ACS758LCB hall current sensor (remote with balanced pair drop cable?) straight to the port that reads amps, so that "amps out" from the ACS758 displays properly on the panel meter. And an output on the I2C? so that it can go into something else... like a CAN bus appliance? I asked the manufacturers if they could do custom versions if I provided the code and their straightforward answer was "how many?"

I'm not well versed in this subject but my question is, why is it necessary to replace the socket? Is the replacement chip not compatible with the original socket? Please excuse my ignorance.

It was a very useful video, I have a question about my problem, I would appreciate it if you could answer it. If possible I need the model number of the diode next to the 7133-1.

amazing , Very grateful for the schematic

Very good

Can the switch be connected directly with the motor?

Thanks a lot for this info. Ali forgot to put in the shunt, so I got some crazy Amp-values. An external shunt is obviously needed.