TurboShed Part 33 - Can we do a 1000hp 1UZ Build for £1000!?! Lets find out!
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- čas přidán 14. 11. 2019
- In this episode we see if we can build a complete 1UZ engine including injectors that will take 1000hp, for less than £1000. We hear all sorts of crazy figures thrown around for people building low compression 1UZ engines to take this power, so we decided to see how we can do this on a seriously low budget. See how we get on with a full bare block rebuild including measuring, calculating and correcting compression ratio.
Note March 2020 - We took this actual engine to the dyno for the first time, see the results here:
• TurboShed Part 37 - LS...
Well over 1000Nm torque which bodes well for getting 1000hp, we need more flow though, most likely cams, exhaust log manifolds or dump pipe are choking it off. The engine and injectors worked fine though :-) One step at a time..... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This has to be one of the most comprehensive engine builds on all of youtube, a hidden gem in the rough. Found you guys through officially gassed, and now I'm hooked! I'm a wanna-be gearhead with a junk car I'm looking to build up into something interesting. I have a shop crane, and I've pulled the blown engine, I'm stuck at figuring out if I want a new engine management system. So I can feel the amount of time and energy you guys spent thinking about everything on this build, from the extra width of the cylinder heads after the head gaskets, to properly cooling this thing once it pushes 1000 horses. You're a master of your craft, keep up the good work both on the car and the channel!
These Engines were about R5500 few years ago which is about 450£ now they go for about R22000 and more. Would this be a cheaper version to the Ls1?
I honestly agree with you. I am from South Africa and we have these engines laying around for cheap. I was wondering what would be a perfect engine for cheap to go 1000hp and now I found it. This channel is really underrated but the quality of the work and explanation is top quality and it actually makes you think you can do this yourself. I really love this
Craziest part is you doing this all alone! Man i wish i had your level of skill and confidence to remove and drop an engine in the same day. UNBELIEVABLE!
Your channel deserves more recognition! I've been following your build since I have a 98' ls400 of my own.
I’ve been following this build for a while now, It still blows my mind why this channel doesn’t get the views and revenue it deserves. But every video is golden for information, so as always keep up the good work.
Thanks for the kind comment! Our revenue to date is zero..... we have no sponsors and no income from the channel, we are doing this to share info freely, in the hope to inspire others what can be done, and perhaps one day we might even get some income! In the end we just enjoy what we do and hope others enjoy seeing it too :-)
@@Concept5North your doing a great job. love from new zealand.
Love from Austin Texas coming your way as well. Keep doing what you're doing and it'll come back to you I promise..
@@Concept5North howdy what if i just have my pistons have the inner circle machined deeper would that be enough to lower the compression, if so how much
its working im about to be on my 3rd ls400 and this one is gonna make 17psi @@Concept5North
Just like every other person who watches your videos I am absolutely dumbfounded by how little views your videos get. It has taken me a week to binge watch ALL the project Turboshed videos between working and family life and I am absolutely hooked. I love your "built not bought" approach to challenges and i think your channel deserves ALOT more views and subscribers. I have "liked" every video and subscribed since watching the first one. MUCH RESPECT to you and young Leon for all your hard work, perseverance,planning and forethought. Hope to see you both in action again soon and until then I will be sharing your content with everyone I know.......... YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME
Thank you for the kind comments :-) I guess we are not good at social media, we don't use facebook, twitter etc, and just do this for fun. Glad you are enjoying it, we do our best! Plenty more to come, we have new videos going live for the next 3 Fridays, plus whatever we get up to in the meantime
You inspire 1uz owners across the world.
Randomly popped up in my feed and I’m glad I watched it awesome video mate ! Looking forward to seeing more of your videos
I love the updates on this and seeing it in action at Teesside. Thank you for taking the time to share the build with us.
Fantastic series, great work and proves what can be done with hard work and sensible choices. Good luck guys👍
Finally! Thank you for this awesome video!
Lots of very useful info in this video. Great job guys, I'll definitely be referencing back to this when I do my big rod engine build. Thanks for spending the time to vlog this car👍
Loved the SR comment at the end! Just subscribed as I found your video extremely informative. I am picking up a VVTI 1UZ from a friend to put in an IS200 soon, for now I will be going back through your other videos to learn some more!
Great video; very informative. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. It will help me greatly in the future.
No problem, thanks for watching and appreciating the content👍
Great conten! Full of usefull information, thanks for the video helped me sort many questions.
awesome content mate, cheers from Fla USA
Great info in this vid...brilliant
Thank you so much for the time and effort. I was actually really wanting a turbo motor and after watching a few of these I can see hope. I really thought I was stuck with this motor
No problem 👍
🇹🇹👏👏 best tutorial ive ever seen on CZcams ur good man u shud teach dis
Great content. Found you via OG. Definitely inspiring for us 1UZ folks. Of course I have the VVTi version, which is much weaker, but I’m sure I can glean some tidbits from you guys. Keep up the good work.
I thought pre '94 models didn't have VVTi? Or is yours a late 90s model? I'm in the US btw
The world wanted me to think that being a rocket scientist equated to being smart. This guy is on another level. Great work!
Great video!
Plan on rebuilding my ucf10 engine on my own in future and I watch this video (and others) several times to get an idea and plan on how to go about it.. keep up the good content am definitely a follower of ur progress and YES doin it for fun is much better 😉👍 worry not money shall follow you for this 🙌
Glad we could help!
Top quality video!
wow this is unbelivable... youtube is so bad this should be in my recommandation glad ive found it! nice job there
Superb video, your some engineer. Its motevaited me to get my Scott out at the weekend!
Ur the man
Incredible detail
And alone!
The most difficult thing for me to understand is the tuning of engine management systems? The other stuff is just parts, and knowing what they do.
doing this solo 🤜🏾🤛🏾 nuff respect mate.
Just feeding the algorithm. Awesome work!
6 bolt mains, inspired the ls1 by GM.
this is dank just subbed
36:13 I love your edits
We spend most of our budget on special effects as you can see ;-)
I learned a lot from this video
You blow mi mind bro.....no bigger ring gap........i love you! if it holds upto 28psi
it held up no probs, that motor did loads of drift, drag and road miles and we never did anything but change the oil a few times :-)
Wow I wish I could do that,I'm from trinidad,I want to put a 1uz in a 7th gen celica gts but the $ n parts r too much,u did great,u r a boss💯👍🤯
There are a lot of details on the 1UZ that look very similar to the MZ v6 engines. The main bearing caps, the coolant passage openings around the cylinders, the area that surrounds the valve buckets and the combustion chambers specifically look a lot alike. I sometimes wonder if the MZ was a v6-ified version of this engine.
Toyota used excellent fit and finish tooling on all of their models after completing the LS400. Why wouldn't they use their R&D dollars on every model they had, in every way possible?
great video! one thing, though. I am a fan of Scotty Kilmer. a few times while watching this, I heard the same tune used in his channel start playing and was wondering if somehow another video started playing.
My SC4 thanks you.
I can't believe yo can push so much boost through stock internals!
I like how you buit this engine using low tech solutions such as plastigauge and didn't bother blueprinting the clearances etc, just got it within spec. A lot of channels would say that it's not good enough but obviously it is.
Just goes to show how good the 1UZ is stock i guess!
I noticed it looks like they used cam seals to seal the spark plug tubes- if thats how over engineered the rest of the engine is then no wonder its good!
That engine has been in the car for over 6 months now. In that time it's been used hard on the dyno, drag strip, drifting and street and we haven't even changed the oil yet. We just did what you need to, and nothing you don't. There is a lot of overspending going on with engine builds and we just wanted to debunk a bit of that by using as many second hand standard parts as possible. Not bad running 29psi of boost. So far so good😎👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge to everyone be safe in will in few months send pictures of my turbo build
Please do and thanks for watching :-)
Hi guys, I know you must get so frustrated with the amount of advice you've had to give out on the internet because of this series, but would you be able to answer one question for me? What is the ARP code for the head studs you used, and did they fit straight away? I stupidly bought 203-4302 and found they are 47ish mm too long when using a 98 thou head gasket! Do I need to cut them and tap a longer thread into the block, or is there a better arp stud to use from the get go? Your series has been a great inspiration to me, and I would be so lost without it. Thank you.
We didn't rethread any holes in the block. The studs we used were ARP-AM4600-1LB, 20 of them but you need to trim a few mm off two (one on each bank), the ones closest to the cam gear or the studs touch the gears. No probs on the help, glad you are getting on with your project :-)
My apologies, I could quite make out what you said at the beginning about the new crank. Have you carried on using a standard 1uz-fe crank or upgraded for something else? Great channel, great vids ;)
Thanks for the comment! The crank is a standard 1UZ-FE, it was donated to the project by BDC driver Owen Atkinson who we thank very much for helping us :-)
Any chance you've got a good video of the manifold you've built? Or a video on making it? Thanks!
do you mean the exhaust manifold? If you look through the earlier Turboshed episodes I think it is around episode 15 and 17 :-)
Hello guys, I watched this whole great video today :) I'm putting turbo in my 93 SC400 :D I have to ask, where are You? I miss watching you :(
The SC Turbo will be a great car! We are still here but I'm afraid Turboshed has been sold but will continue to live on as a street/drift car, Leon is working full time as a car mechanic, and Richard has just moved to Australia. More projects will come hopefully, but we've had to take a break while we sorted everything out, moved house etc. Good luck with your build :-)
Great video really enjoyed, how much hp do think the engine makes after this build at the crank? Minus turbo.
It would be less than stock without the turbo as we dropped the compression ratio, maybe 250hp?
Yeah, needless to say, this is some PHd Engine builds!
Does that head gasket make the engine non-interference? I know the early 90s ones are non-interference but i think 95+ is.
The UCF10 motors are non interference with the standard gaskets, so fitting the thicker ones just gives even more clearance. The VVTi later engines are interference though.
Injectors bought off which sight
What turbo are you running, and did you source it new or did you get it from another vehicle?
see earlier episodes with all the info, it was a Borg Warner S366SXE
Hi guys, I've finally got my 1uz-fe turbo on the road, but the cambelt is making some weird chirping noises, and I can spin the idler bearing by hand with the belt on. However, the belt seems to be under enough tension elsewhere. Did you have any weird issues with cambelt tension after adding the thicker head gaskets? I replaced the idler bearings when I rebuild the engine, but I reused the hydraulic tensioner.
That does not sound good, are you sure you haven't got a cam cap mixed up?
What is wrong with using 9:1 compression and use higher volume turbo with lower boost pressure for cooler charge temp?What about using
2 ARP bolts for more even clamping force on the heads?
The ARP studs at that torque are already on the limit of contact yield on an aluminium head and the aluminium block threads, so more preload won't really do much, other than plastically deform the head or strip the block threads. To go for more clamp load you need to machine the engine and fit larger studs. We find at 29psi it will start to lift the heads occasionally but with steel gaskets they seat back down just fine. Yes we could use a higher volume turbo, but we don't have room to fit one in and keep the sleeper style look we wanted.
What ring set do you use? Gap? Do you have any concern the CNC could heat the rings too much?
We reused the standard rings, but took them off to machine in the lathe. In the video we showed the piston being machined with no coolant as a first pass just to get the video footage, but they were all done with coolant on for the rest. With a 3kW coolant pump they don't get even warm! We reused the standard rings as they were slightly worn, which is perfect for big boost. We did glaze bust/hone the bores before the rebuild, but I didn't get the video footage.
any way to get you gents to fab up a turbo manifold for my 97 sc 400? The fun part is I still want my air and power steering
sorry we don't do commercial parts or work, this is just a hobby project :-)
Hi I'm in the middle of a 1uz turbo build and I have the same idea like you to use stock internals. It's well proven to the job. Can you please let me know what ignitors and transmission, clutch and adapter plate setup you are running? Will really appreciate your guidance. Thank you sir. And great job!!
If you watch the earlier videos on the Turboshed series you can see the coils we use and I'm sure we mention the part number. They are standard Toyota ones off Yaris and some US SUV's I think. Transmission is a 350Z 6 speed manual which we have modified to stop it breaking 3rd gear, clutch is a 200mm twin plate solid disc ceramic, and we made the flywheel and adaptor plate. Again, watch the series from the beginning and all the details are in each video as we go step by step to where we are today.
You dont need to undo all the harness wiring to pull the engine. Just pull i through firewall and take harness with the engine
we run a totally custom wiring harness and aftermarket ECU so what you say applies to the standard one, but not ours
do you think that if you boosting you should upgrade the valve springs ?
The internet would say yes, but we can run 29psi on the standard springs without any problem. Valve springs become more of an issue with revs rather than boost.
Bob on , loads better than the blinged up American junk that’s all full of chrome and vijazels . Considering one of these but N/A , have you done much with the s65 BM unit or Nissan V6 ?
Never done anything with the BMW or Nissan stuff other than early SR20's. Just seems pointless messing about with those other motors that need a huge and expensive list of parts to put out big power. The 1UZ's are just easy to work on and pretty bullet proof :-)
Forgive my ignorance but has anyone ever laminated the top of the piston with a thin piece of titanium to prevent it from getting hot ?
Also can these motors be fire ringed for better durability?
if there is no det then piston caps would serve no purpose, we've never had a problem with pistons melting. You can fire ring them but the cylinder walls are very tight to each other so you would need to use a figure 8 type fire ring I guess. We found at 2bar boost it would just lift the heads, but reseat okay afterwards with the steel head gaskets. To be honest to get more power I'd run 2 bar boost but make new runners and headers for straight flow, and recam.
So if I wasn't chasing quite that horsepower or boost levels, those multi layer gaskets and head studs would suffice if I was using 10psi?
We ran 10psi for ages on standard head gaskets (10:1 CR) and studs, we hadn't even taken the heads off the block. At 14psi the standard setup is at its limit, and at 16-18psi it fails, based on our testing! If you wanted to do belt-and-braces then you can run Cometic MLS and ARP studs, but for 10psi I would not go down to 8.5:1CR, as it starts to affect the low down off boost power. Maybe 9.5:1 would be nice at 10psi.
@@Concept5North Thanks so much for getting back to me on this! Standard ECU with bigger injectors ok to 10psi in your experience?
How has it been heat wise after removing thermostat and blanking bypass?
Well on the dyno, street and drag strip we don't see it run over 85deg C, but drifting it still overheats. We are fitting a much higher flow Spal fan this weekend, we'll see if that helps. If not the radiator is getting rear mounted!
Wosson mate I'm building a 1uz for my is 200 down in Cornwall. I've got 2 gt28 going 550cc injectors on it but standard 10.9 head bolts and gasket. After watching your build think I should change them out. Were did u buy bolts and gaskets from ? Many thanks lee
I got them in Australia when I was there. I have a spare set of 40 thou Cometics and a set of new ARP head studs/nuts if you are interested, contact details at the end of each video. We ran those 40 thou Cometics up to 18psi no probs, but dropped the CR to go to 29psi.
Thanks for quick reply I've sent you mail to info@scott cheers lee
No uprating bolts on bottom end? I was under the impression that it is needed when going for 600+hp ?
We've been running over 600hp for well over a year now on two different setups with the standard bottom end bolts. Its generally revs that kill bottom end bolts, and if you look at the power curves for 1UZs running standard cams and inlet manifolds they are done by 6500rpm. If I was going to 9k revs I'd use ARP bolts everywhere, but we have the rev limit at 6700 and at that level I believe standard bolts are okay. Well, time will tell! We will keep you updated. Just as a test with this engine we even reused the standard Toyota bolts :-)
@@Concept5North Thank you for replying, glad to hear from someone who actually does things. Can't wait and see yours making the power and I will slowly work on mine. Cheers.
Where do you get your bearings? I've yet to find some that cheap
MD Spares in Australia, but they are not trading any more
Are you using a stock conrods there?
Yes, the UCF10 ones. Stock main caps, main bolts and rod bolts too.
Wow
Can this be done with the 3uz.
Would u be able to sell kits. Thus making it a bilt on version
We've never worked on a 3UZ but they seem to have a lot more issues. Mainly conrods that are very weak, and cylinder liners that are much thinner so distort and move under big boost. It would be impossible to sell a "bolt on kit" as we've changed so much of the structure of the car to get this working, 3 years+ work and 1000s of hours, it would just not be worth it.
hey there. just wondering what gearbox you are using please ?
Nissan 350Z but weve modified it internally to take the torque. Check.out earlier vids for all the details and how we made the adaptor plate, flywheel etc
Will you need 4cc more on the piston with a 3uz?
it depends what thickness head gaskets you are running - just calculate it out like in the video
Ok so you built the engine for cheap.
How much do you have into the turbo setup? Fuel system/ computer/whatever else?
Id like to do a 1uz or 3uz swap in my tacoma. This video is right up my alley.
Id like to do a huge supercharger my goal is 500hp is that realistic?
500hp is easy on a 1UZ, but I'm not sure a 3UZ would take that. About 16psi should see that power so you don't even need a huge supercharger
where did you buy the parts? can you post a list please?
We just search about on the internet etc, but as we don't get any support or discount from anywhere I won't give out free adverts for them
How many millimeters did you guys take off each piston on the lathe?
0.65mm from all surfaces gave the 8.5:1 CR with 100 thou gaskets
@@Concept5North Your tolerances are described via imperial measurements lol neat
Anyone else totally distracted by the "Choice of background/theme music?Or is it just me...
unfortunately Kylie won't licence her back catalogue to TurboShed so we are stuck with licence free music!
Not trying to nitpick because it's an awesome build but at 10:50 you forgot to torque down a oil pump bolt on camera...
My slack editing! Well spotted there :-)
Now, you know how much I love this build... I literally pay attention from start to finish on this build so beautifully put together!!!! I hope you get to your hp number or above!!!!
What gearbox you use?
czcams.com/video/zhXjARWBD-E/video.html a modified Nissan 350Z, CD008
@@Concept5North Like & subscribe from Russia!))) We also build turbo 1UZ with hx40 Holset & want to get 650+ bhp. What turbo you use and how much power did you get on this config?
we run a Borg Warner S366SXE on the biggest housing (1.0AR I think), that runs just under 650bhp (see the dyno video) but we ran into exhaust manifold flow limits
I will love to work with you wao
How do you measure valve clearances on this motor
they are shim over bucket so just with a feeler gauge between the cam lobe and shim
When I took the engine apart, I immediately made 2 mistakes!
I didn't lock the camgears and I didn't marked the lifters or shims!
Big regret!
Oh dear, you won't do that again!
Scottparts, How can I get 8.5 CR with my 1uz if I don't have access to a 3d cnc lathe?
You can machine the pistons on a manual lathe, it's just quicker and more accurate on the cnc👍
I am going to be using 5sfe oversized pistons they drop the comp to 8.12
Any chance this engine proved reliable?
We ran that engine for 3 years of hard drifting and never had any problems, so it was super reliable considering the power it put out👍
Have you ever built a 2uzfe?
no I've only worked with 1UZ engines
WONT THE AMOUNT OF MATERIAL REMOVED FROM PISTONS X 8 MAKE THIS CRANK UNBALANCED AT 5000 RPM OR WAS RUNNING SMOOTH ORIGINALLY AN NOW IT VIBRATES AT DIFFERENT HARMONICS AND RPMS
It is such a small amount of material/mass removed, and the same from all 8 pistons, that it made no noticeable difference to the vibration
Dyno?
studio.czcams.com/users/videoDyfbpZ4Etn8 yup, done that
@@Concept5North did you ever make a part list though?
Ummm...excuse my ignorance, but if you have a CNC machine why are you assembling in your back yard?
we have to work outside because the workshop is full of CNC machines...... no room! The CNC machines are in our back yard workshop you see :-)
First
The combustion chamber in the head has several items that can be attacked with a rotary tool. I've done the math late one evening and learned I could drop the static compression from 10.5 to 1 all the way down to 9.0 to 1
I've done that before on other engines, but the 1UZ has quite thin wall combustion chambers, and even where the material is between the valves is pocketed from the water jacket side. To me it was too risky to create hot-spots, and balancing 8 cylinders like that to get all the volumes the same is a huge amount of work. Just fit 98 thou gaskets and skim the pistons slightly and job done, with no risk in my opinion. I've seen pictures of people who have done head fettling on 1UZ and I could not see how to safely remove enough material so I went a different way about it.
@@Concept5North true the main reason to drop the CR that much is for big power. Low compression Pistons are a much safer and stronger than going after a combustiom chamber with a dremel.
What size head studs did you use? 10mm or 11mm?
ARP 10mm
@@Concept5North how much wheel horsepower are you guys making and at what boost? Has it blown up yet?