Why do Toyota engines consume oil ? And how to prevent it?
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- čas přidán 15. 05. 2024
- A Toyota Master Diagnostic Techncian discusses Why do Toyota engines consume oil or burn it. And ways you can prevent it from happening to your Toyota
In this video I go over a very hot topic, Toyota engines burning oil? Not only the 2AZ-FE engine that was part of a customer support program and was fixed because of a problem. But the newer engines are also using oil like the 2.5L 2AR-FE , 2.7 1AR-FE and the 2ZR-FXE 1.8 engine in the toyota prius.
I will go over what is causing all this mess and you guessed it. Low tention piston rings. This is a change that took place in modern engines that makes them very tempermantal to oil maintenace.
The No.1 cause of oil burning problems in modern engines not just with Toyota but with everyone is low tension piston rings sticking or seizing because of bad maintenance habits.
Toyota's 10,000 mile oil change or 1 year is great to reduce the costs of ownership. However you must adhere to the strict guidelines for this oil change. There are many condtions which would change your car to Special operating conditinos which would then call for a 5,000 mile oil change or 6 months whichever comes first.
I wish all my viewers and everyone who watches this video to know about this and understand that going into the grey area of special operating conditions is not worth it. Toyota overall maintenance costs are very low even with the 5,000 mile or 6 month oil changes. Why push your engine to the edge or keep wondering if you operated your car in special conditions, Just do your oil change every 5000 mile or 6 month and wonder no more.
Questions? Comment or email please note that it takes me sometime to get back to you via email but I always will in the end.
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0:00 Intro
0:48 What is it?
2:44 Why do they burn oil?
5:30 Stage 1
7:12 Stage 2
8:38 Stage 3
10:28 How to prevent it?
19:19 Possible fixes? - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I worked for a car manufacturer for almost 3 decades. Every engineer from power train group I ever worked with was not favorable to long drain intervals. The environmental impact of waste oil and competitive pressures for low maintenance costs pushed their managers to do it. The reduced water jacket height in block and oil spray jets allowed oil to get to evaporating temp for fuel and moisture and better oil all got them to the best result. THEN reduced friction was the goal and ring width and spring force were one the first and easiest things to do to reduce effort needed to turn engine over. High output demands then got us turbochargers. The ring heat and more plastic like particle formation got the ring groove sludge build that sticks rings. The basic indisputable fact is that ANY oil gains contaminants with engine use hours. Dirt particles smaller than air filter capture size and fuel that is not combusted that is on cylinder walls and is scraped down by rings will accrue in the oil. Synthetic oil is better at tolerating this but it is still oil and still accrues the same stuff. Superfine bypass flow oil filtering can get the particles but still you have the other dilutes building up. As stated, ONLY MORE FREQUENT OIL SERVICE fixes this. So you buy a prepaid maintenance plan and it only covers the standard schedule? Find a trusted quick lube and get the base service oil change. If you keep the car it will pay it back. Even without ring concerns the overwhelming bulk of vehicles have timing chains and variable cam timing. Those c omponents suffer from the dilutes in oil causing wear not seen in 150K mile engines with more oil changes done. Camshaft in hemis, tappets in GM V8s, and cam phasers in some Fords? Not seen much at all when the oil changes were done at 5K interval. Listen to Car Care Nut
Thank you for sharing your expertise! This is the non watered down version of this video! And it’s very well said!
I have been humming this drum for a long time. Automotive Engineers are pushed to their limits and then some with strict emission standards and an ever changing automotive industry.
I love hearing guys calling coyotes and hemis crap when their beloved LS eats a gallong of oil every hour and taps away like an impatient drummer all because they're either too lazy or too stingy to put in the extra money/effort to properly care for their engine.
Petroleum derived lubricants whether its made via hydrotreating, hydrocracking, or catalytic reformation, does not provide nearly the same level of protection that a good PAO and diester basestock synthetic oil does. For example, petroleum derived lubricants will fall off the cylinder walls within 48 hours due to gravity and leave your cylinders virtually dry. When you crank the engine over, for a few seconds your cylinders will be running completely DRY and cause asperity formation which leads to galling. The resultant by-product of asperity formation is the iron particles you see in your used engine oil. There is also the aspect of "severe" operating conditions (extreme high or low temp) which alters your oils viscosity. In very cold conditions petroleum/mineral derived motor oil has small amounts of residual waxes in the oil that crystalizes. When this happens, the viscosity increases to the point of being unusable. There are no practical methods to prevent this other than the use a motor oil that has a much lower viscosity than that which is ideal for the engines operating temperature. This creates a conflict that was "solved" by viscosity index modifiers, which are added to a low viscosity mineral oil to prevent a total loss of viscosity at engine operating temperatures. The problem is that viscosity index modifiers are long chained polymers that work by swelling via molecular expansion, which isn't bad per-se, except that the extreme forces and pressures from the babbit bearings causes these unstable long chained polymers to break down. This is known as "shear losses" and cause the oil to become unusable in a rapid period of time. A good quality synthetic oil is inherently stable across a much wider range of thermal operating conditions and thus doesn't need viscosity index modifiers to retain its viscosity at low and high temperatures, making it comparably insusceptible to shear losses. This is just ONE of about a dozen core fundamental aspects of motor oil. We haven't even got into total base numbers, the importance of ZnDDP, pour point depressants, borderline pumping temperature, anti foaming agents, oxidation inhibitors, detergents & dispersents, corrosion inhibitors, anti-wear agents, tribological additives, and much more. I could go into super crazy autistic details and write a whole book on the subject, but fortunately other people already have.
@@smh9902
So to make the long story short, we should use synthetic based oil .
@@smh9902 I have a 2010 MDX with 289K running syn oil the whole time, extended oil change intervals. Usually in the service manuals it will state "If you live in extremely hot temps you should go to a 10W-30 oil". I'm convinced the OE's are using the thinnest oil that get the best EPA mileage return and not so much for longevity.
I've been told they use non ethanol gasoline for this testing because higher mileage is attained. As best as I can tell from the consumer standpoint the thicker the oil the thicker the film strength that with an aging engine benefits very well. Syn opposed to petroleum base are old rotary dial compared to current cellphones.
Scuffing bearings and cylinder walls are contaminated oil or lack of oil but sticky oil control rings are in direct relation to compression rings sealing. The thicker oil serves to lessen this problem. The PCV system is in direct relation to oil contamination and as the engine has more miles might be the most neglected system in the engine.
I have been an auto technician for 47 years. I have been telling people for years to change their oil and filters more often than the factory recommends. All the engine work I have done( like rings and bearings) were because of not changing the oil enough. Can't stress this enough.
ALWAYS follow the severe maintenance schedule since 90% of "normal" driving actually falls into the "severe" category.
Bidens been a politician for 47 years. That makes him a good president?
But...... but the manufacturer wouldn’t lie to us.... right? It’s not like they want to sell us more cars after our brand new one dies due to a terrible maintenance schedule..
@Temporary Account how am I supposed to respond to that ? Did I hurt your feelings?
@Temporary Account boy get offline and go ask your mommy if your pizza rolls are ready! .
I follow your advice.
Change oil every 3000 or 6 months ...
1000 miles 1st oil change..not 10,000 miles.
As with my so called free oil change which I paid for.
Everyone tells me I'm doing to many oil changes.
My response is, has any mechanic told you that your doing to many oil changes.
I share your advice.
Its cheaper to change oil then an engine.
Thanks..
Appreciate your videos..
My dad swears by 3000 mile oil changes. He had a farmer friend say, "Changing the oil is the only way to get the crap out!"
Quality advice for sure!
Ex BMW master tech for 17years. Everything this man says is SPOT ON, imho. I would STRONGLY suggest following his advice on this matter!
Ya, me too, 18,000 miles before you need the next oil change means by 80k miles you're on your 5th oil change and likely your first N63 swap
I bet you remember when the N54 came out with 10k mile oil changes!
@@justinweaver7553 LOL !
@@Coltondk they were 15k intervals! Even worse!
10k even 8k is to long to wait for an oil change. 5k is the best no matter syn or standard oil. Detergent in the oil doesn't burn right.
As Scotty Kilmer says, "oil is cheap, motors are expensive".
Yeah, well... Scotty sells oil changes.
Would be better though if the engine didn't burn a liter of oil every 1,000 miles.
@@Epotheros Liter, my cars only burn quarts.
A car mechanic will tell you it's better to fix your car and a car salesman will tell you it's better to buy a new car
@@dominoespizza1756 car salesmen are there to line thier pockets of your hard earned cash...it's always about themselves...
Working for 12 years in a dealership as a technician and seeing things first hand brought me to the same conclusion - do your oil changes regularly, sooner than what the dealership tells you and your car engine will thank you.
Are you talking about miles or time? Bc I don't see what the issue with time is if you don't have the miles. Modern oils usually run very well and shouldn't cause an issue.
@@medini2 I agree. They overfill by a lot quite frequently and I always hate it. Last time they put some brownish oil in it that makes me wonder if it was even changed at all. Unfortunately I live in an apt and don't have that option.
They most likely drained only half or 3/4 the oil and refilled it to save oil. A new oil change should result in a gold oil color after the change.
@@medini2 1 quart overfill is fine, stop being a smart arse at shops.
I bought this corolla with 185 k mi on it, with history of accident and i knew the owner did not ever check his own oil. but this car has now 235k on it, and i am seriously attempting to keep it going. in today's economy i wouldn't take 3k for it.
i don't want it overfilled with oil. @@potatopotato8360
The short oil change interval is the secret to the 500k cars. Oil breakdown is never the limit anymore, it's the dirt and contaminants in the oil that cause the wear. I would even go so far as to say that cheap oil and a good filter at short intervals is better than Mobil 1 at the official intervals. Cheap oil that still meets the published API spec (which all do to my knowledge) that is changed frequently will protect you.
Yup cheap synthetic oil but genuine oil not some fake oils , are enough. Change oil every 5000km. Car will run forever.
@@bielmelichartes2167 It's well proven that even long before synth oil was available that the frequent oil changes result in 500k cars. I've proven it myself even, with no synth in the crankcase. By far, more important than anything else is 2500 mile oil changes and always do the filter.
@@bielmelichartes2167 Sure I guess, but not all cars. Many ultra reliable cars can easily last this long with frequent changes of the absolute cheapest oil. Since all oils sold have to meet the current standard, breakdown is not an issue whether synth or organic. Frequent changes make drive trains last. Period. You can argue all you want but I'm not some newb who doesn't know what he is talking about. No BMW has ever been a member of the 'ultra reliable' club so this might not be your area of expertese.
@@bielmelichartes2167 I don't buy American cars, save your condescension for some of the ACTUAL idiots. Go argue with someone else, or work on your BMW.
@@bielmelichartes2167 And to be absolutely clear, NO. You are incorrect. The whole point of this video and the thread you are commenting on is that frequent oil changes are EXACTLY what is necessary to get 500k out of a car. Now just run along with your disposable cars and bark up some other tree. Why are you even here on a TOYOTA channel?
One can tell that this guy is a great mechanic and it's telling the truth by how frustrated he is.
its because he cares. thats where the frustration comes from
Thats because arguing with morons is exhausting ! lol
In the 1960-70’s mechanic Smokey Yunick wrote a column in Popular Science magazine. I’ll always remember what he wrote; “He who spends the most money on lubrication goes the furthest the cheapest.”
I have a paper back book that Smokey did on how to Hotrod a small block Chevy it had all the G.M. Parts # to build a 500 H.P. factory parts Hotrod motor and that was a big deal in the late sixties and early seventies with a naturally aspirated engine !!!
Say, Smokey.
If only it were actually that simple.
Better off buying a mid range synthetic and changing every 7-10k Use ACEA, don't waste your money folks
I remember Smokey. I thought it was Popular Mechanics. As a senior student I was School Librarian in our remote rural in the Australian outback. I got first dibs on all the good magazines, including these two. My other favourite was Scientific American.
I have downloaded some archive copies of 60s magazines, and many happy memories.
As a newly licenced driver, I took Smokey’s advice to heart, retrofitted seat belts, and drove with my lights on.
Both item caused great consternation. Some drivers nearly drove off the road while frantically signalling to me that my lights were on.
Now of course, seat belts and daytime running lights are the norm. Both have been shown to be very effective safety measures .
I diagnosed a blocked breather hole in petrol cap of the school bus, based on a Smokey episode.
Back in the day, lads were expected to become accomplished mechanics, capable of quite major procedures.
This video has been very informative. I just had the engine replaced on my 2016 Acura TLX and it was burning an excessive amount of oil, no check engine light couldn’t figure out why it was ticking and losing power. When the engine died and I took it to the dealership I was told it was 1.3 Quarts low. $9100 later and now I’m checking that dipstick every week and changing it no longer than 6000 miles on Full Synthetic.
I'd use a good quality fuel treatment as well.
There is no way your engine would be a goner because you were missing a bit over a quart. Now way dude
Probably put an after market catch can on the PVC lines. To catch most of the gunk that's reintroduced into your intake.
While this is on a 35 year-old 3FE in my FJ62, I was losing about a quart every 3K miles. Fortunately it was collecting into my PCV catch can that I regularly had to empty, so it wasn't getting pumped through the intake to be burned in the engine and foul the plugs. A couple years ago I pulled the valve cover and hot tanked it, thoroughly clearing out the baffles and their drain holes on the inside. New valve cover gasket and bolt gaskets, put it back on, and now I only end up with an ounce or so of oil collected in my catch can every 3K miles, and no perceivable loss showing on the dipstick when I change the oil. Had I not added a catch can to keep my intake clean about 20 years ago, I would've gone nuts trying to find out where I was losing oil. Fortunately for the past 25 years or so I've religiously done oil changes every 3K miles and use Mobil 1 High Mileage, substituting a quart with Marvel Mystery Oil, and it comes out just barely darkened when I drain it.
Granted this is a different scenario from those that you discuss, but for those trying to find out why they're losing oil, the PCV is something else to consider.
I've had my car for 12 years from new. I'd always changed the oil and filter every 5000 miles with mobil 3000 and OEM filter. The car now has 100000 miles on it, I just inspected the cylinders with an endoscope. Still has the cross hatching and very few faint vertical scoring. Listen to the guy, he knows what he's talking about.
First time i ever heard an Automotive technician on CZcams say : I LOVE YOU ALL AND I CARE ABOUT YOU”
this man has a good heart ontop of being an excellent technician with excellent advice.
I could envision this guy being a teacher or professor and doing much good in this World. 👍🙏😃
Excellent advice. I bought a new 2021 Tundra w/ Toyo Guard that provides a couple of free oil/filter changes. At 5k miles and again at 10k, 15k I arranged for this service. Each time I walked up to Service counter I was told this service would be a full charge expense to me because I didn’t wait for the first 10k for the first oil change. I was calm but livid that after purchasing a vehicle over $50k they were the ones to determine the mileage qualifies for the free oil/filter, not what the customer believes is good for their vehicle. After instance and stating I am the one who will own this vehicle after 36k miles warranty, they agreed to provide the service as requested. Note, I also change my oil the first 800 - 1000 miles. I use Oem filter and 0-20 Mobile synthetic. I do this because engine blocks used to be, and probably today, are cast in sand. If not, I still do it because I am looking for initial engine break in with possible metal fragments that will be seen through the still clear oil.
I am so thankful for your channel. I was crippled, broke and off work for a whole year and during that time I skipped my oil changes and one day I found the oil level was getting lower in my 2014 Scion tC. I knew about the 2AZ's burning oil so I put my finger up my tail pipe and it came out clean. Before I was injured I was obsessed with keeping the oil clean with about 3 oil changes per year and it never seemed to burn a drop. To get back on track I changed the oil and the plan is to run it for a couple of weeks and then change it again to flush out the old oil that couldn't be drained. I already bought a jug of Valvoline and a good filter for the next change. When I change the oil again in 2 weeks I'll run some cleaner through it first like you mentioned. I love my car and I don't like missing maintenance. Your channel is so informative and answers the questions I have that no one else does. Thank you!
Yep, I live in Canada. My father was a mechanic in the 60s. He taught me to change oil just before the snow comes and just after it leaves. My 06 Tacoma is still going strong. Thanks for confirming what my father taught me.
This is great advice. Your dad is a legend
I added an oil catch can & a can of engine restore at every oil change, worked for me
hi I drive my 2011 scion to work. 50/50 Highway and local. 3600 mile a year. 0w20 named branded oil as manufacturer recommended. I change oil once a year for 3600mile. My engine should be no problem correct?
That's what I am also doing.
@@101yen Since new 0w20 is usually under the ILSAC GF-6A certification, that means higher standards are set for that oil compared to the last generation (GF-5) which I haven't yet seen a GF-6A oil that's conventional base stock. The interval at which you change it sounds great and beneficial to your engine, especially since it's such a thin oil that can lose it's viscosity from usage (mileage). I still believe that 6 months on-the-dot is a little overkill for newer oils as synthetic base stock keeps getting better over time which means additives and antioxidants are also improving and are more plentiful in oil. My recommendation for oil changes are max 1 year for most long-commuting drivers (people that run the engine for at least 15 minutes which removes moisture and activates some of the additives) or 8-9 months for short-commuting drivers that don't have the engine running for very long. As for mileage, I say no more than 5,500 miles on the oil. Which ever comes first though.
Hello, I have been a Toyota Master Technician for about 30 years. I own a 2005 Toyota 4runner limited 4.7. I change the oil every 3000 miles. I now have 300,000 miles on it and it still running strong! I keep telling my customers the same things you are talking about and I wanted to say great job on the video 👍
Thank you Brian! Just wish people would listen! Merry Christmas
I had a 2014 Accord Sport. I always changed my oil at 5K miles and only used Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil, thinking it would help keep my car's engine protected. I did this until recently when my car had reached 165,000 and I just started changing my oil every 3K. I only did this because of the bad oil consumption issue and the dealer recommended it. It was probably too late to make the change; the piston rings were probably wearing. The Honda dealer eliminated the valve seals since no oil was in the spark plugs or the wells. And it seems like all mechanics and dealerships stay away from changing out the piston rings, maybe out of laziness or lack of motivation. So lesson to learn. Even though Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil is rated at 10,000 mile oil change intervals, does not mean to do it with higher mileage vehicles. It's best to listen to the experts and mechanics when they say that after 70K miles, start changing your oil every 3K miles.
yup every 3k, 2005 camry made it to 463k before I traded it in
@@LouieGMDesign Changing out the piston rings takes you into engine rebuild territory, doesn't it? If I had the facilities -- I have the knowledge -- to drop the front clip and separate the transmission, I could do this myself, but in my experience this requires a hoist, which I just can't put in my residential house/garage. I've dreamed about it though :-)
My point is, nobody has been told about these rings, it's sneaky and unfair on people like me that are used to changing around 10,000 or every year in my case. I will never by a Toyota again.
My 2006 corolla has 400,000 miles on it. It uses very little oil, maybe a quart every 10,000 miles. Now I'm retired, more short distance travel. I will follow your advice and change my full synthetic oil every 6 months. Thank you for a great video.
I had a 1996 Grand Marquis. I changed the oil every six months regardless of the mileage because of stop and go driving to/from work. I sold the car when the a/c went out. Engine was perfect.
@@dam4274Bad decision
Wow this man is a gem to all of us. I’ve been doing a lot of research, and I have a Jeep, not Toyota and the story seems to be the same there. Some of the problems they are having with the valves and camshaft stuff is because of insufficient maintenance, ie oil changes. The more research I do the more I am convinced that it is imperative we half the intervals from these manufacturers from 10,009 down to 5009. 4000 even… if you drive in extreme conditions.
Thank you for your honesty… I know its kind of a conflict of interest, being that you work for Toyota, but this is stuff that is people need to know.
i have done a bit of full synthetic verses mineral oil testing to see if it save fuel , due to reduced friction , how ever over a 15,000 test in full syn then 15,000 in mineral i saw no diffence in the fuel cost it was bang on the same ,
He doesn't work for Toyota. He _used to_ work for a Toyota dealer. He doesn't anymore.
Quote from Scotty Kilmer below says it all:. "Oil is cheap; engines are expensive!" Sound and solid advice in this video. Well done!
When I asked Scotty last year, he recommended changing oil every 7000 miles or once a year. 5000 miles/6 months is a safe bet as mentioned by AMD.
@@handle25745 Kilmer is an Idiot
@@dddpvt I can't stand the guy - but he's not an idiot; he knows how to attract hundreds-of-thousands of CZcams viewers by making outrageous claims, shouting and waving his arms like a chimp. As Mark Twain was once quoted: "Never underestimate the stupidity of the average American."
@@kenhoward3512 👍
@@dddpvt 🎯
I have been using Mobil 1 full synthetic every 5,000 miles in my old 4Runner since it was new. It is now nearing 200,000 miles and still runs like new and does not use any oil. When I started driving, my dad taught me that the number one most important thing to make your car last is to change the oil frequently.
I agree with your Dad!
What type of Mobil 1 did u use?...xW-x0?
Same thing with me. I use Mobil 1 5-30w in my '97 4Runner. It's now at 398k miles. As measured by the dipstick.The dipstick shows less than 1/4" of oil use with a 5000 mile oil change interval. It used to be no oil usage at all when I was doing 7500 mile oil change interval. I had my oil tested to check up on it a few times and the oil was fine. So i continued with my oil change intervals. I've always used the severe driving condition as maintenance standard.
Same with my 1999 4Runner . Never used any oil .479000 miles when I hit a deer and totaled it.
@@jamesmcgraw8493 This generation of the 4Runner has a well earned reputation.
Salut je m'appelle Steven je suis moi-même mécanicien et je suis français et je tenais à t'applaudir pour la qualité de tes vidéos qui sont vraiment impressionnante.
Du pur bonheur
I watch your vids religiously and I’m glued there until it’s done. Thanks mate you help so many people.
Much appreciated 👌
I’m a mechanic and this guy speaks 100% truth
Recently purchased a 22 Tacoma. At 5000 miles I took it to the dealer for its first complimentary oil change. The dealer refused. Said you don’t need to change till 10000. I told him I am in the severe driving category. After going back and forth with him I left and went to jiffy lube. Really like your channel. Keep up the good work.
I went through the same thing at my dealership.
Dealers should allow you to get them business.
My free oil changes for 21 4 Runner ended. They still call me in late 23 for service offering a $40 coupon for a full synthetic oil change, so I do it . A local Mobil station wants $100 for oil change on 4 Runner because it holds 6.5 quarts of oil. If I start my truck I warm it up fully, even for a short trip will drive till it's warmed up fully. That can take a while in cold temps with an aluminum block.
Please learn to change your own oil. It's not that difficult. I find it very satisfying because I know it's done right.
I had the SAME issue with my Toyota dealer. They won't change it until it is on 8000 miles.
I didn't realize oil sitting for extended period of time was bad. Thank you for the insight
Excellent, excellent, excellent. I just bought a new Toyota Corolla hatchback and was told by the dealer you don't have to bring it back for an oil change until 10,000 miles. As soon as I heard the words I cringed. While I'm not a mechanic by any means I have been working on my cars for more than 40 years and have always tried to change my oil between 5 and 7000 miles for synthetic and 3 thousand miles for non-synthetic. Thank you so much for confirming what I always thought was right. Keep up the good work with your excellent Channel. It's gentleman like yourself that make CZcams a excellent tool for the car enthusiast an average guy alike. My Compliments sir.
You’re the only guy on CZcams who actually knows how to fix Toyotas, I love that.
If it's not broken, don't fix it. Every mechanic can fix a Toyota. He's just worked some 10 years at the dealership, so he knows every little problem.
Scotty Kilmer
But I thought toyotas never break 😆
@@jibrilthegreat35 every car will have a problem. However, Toyotas and Hondas just last way longer than other cars.
@@beanteam2217 Im not saying that toyotas are crappy, Im just calling out the owners who claim Toyotas never break.
I personally would have more respect for the brand if they had the cojones to build HD trucks.
HD trucks do real work, and a lot of them last a looooong time when serviced properly. Its not the same same my Ford F-550 that weighs 20,000 and is driven in extreme desert enviroment, and say a Toyota Corolla that is driven casually or a Tacoma that is used as an “overlander”. Overlanders baby their vehicles.
Like I said. Not knocking on toyota as being crappy, but unless they get pushed to the max we wont know exactly how strong they truly are
Hi AMD. I’ve been in the aviation maintenance industry since 1976. I’ve always done my own auto maintenance and felt like I knew quite a bit about maintaining my vehicles, but watching your videos has taught me many things. Your knowledge and expertise is a valuable resource for myself and countless others who want to maintain their vehicles. Thanks and God Bless you, your family, and the others who watch and learn from your videos.
Possibly one of the best vids on oil maintenance out there. That 1 year minimum might be in the owners manual, but for low miles type rides, it ought to be noted as the most important: chemistry never sleeps, and blow-by [however little] just degrades oil over time. Nothing stops it really, and the grocery getters that never ever get up to temp are the most vulnerable.
Blessed man, thank you for existing and for taking the time to share your knowledge, experience and skills with us. I hope we will enjoy your videos for a long time!
There are many people on CZcams who try to explain something, but you are special because you are full of knowledge, humor and it is a pleasure to watch and listen to your videos.
Sorry for my bad English....
As a mechanic myself you are 100% correct , I’ve been saying the same thing to my clients , my rule has always been what ever the manufacturer says , half the service interval - no matter how good the driving style , oil is cheap compared to the other .
what if I drive very infrequently? My annual mileage is around 3000 miles
@@reocam8918 if your trips are very short - under 5 miles then I’d be changing oil every 6 months , no longer , if it’s in cold climate then every 3 months , engines not at operating temps for atleast 30 mins won’t remove the accumulated moisture it creates within the crank case , which is created each time the engine is cold , continuously gathering and mixing with the oil turning it to sludge , basically water in oil , if on the other hand your trips are 50 miles each time with only the odd short trip then 1 year is fine .
@@reocam8918 Change it at least once a year if not twice, short trips degrade oil more and cause more carbon buildup
@@reocam8918 still change it every 3-5 thousand
You called $9 a quart of oil cheap
Thanks for the video. I recently brought my new Toyota in to the dealership for the first 5,000 mile inspection and ended up leaving without them touching it as they only wanted to do a visual check of the fluids. I asked to have the oil changed and the service guy said he has 6 ASI? certifications and assured me I was wrong for not wanting to wait until 10,000 miles. After finally agreeing to change the oil, he said it would be nearly $100 plus tax so I said forget it. I've always changed my own oil and had it not been for the "free Toyota Care", I'd never have brought my truck in to the dealer and surely wont again.
My Toyota Corolla Ascent dopey NOT use any oil and #Smoky60Series and #AngelaMerc 413CDI burns NONE in 20,000km intervals..
as was mentioned in the clip above, damage slowly increases up until maybe the warranty runs out (with 10k mile intervals), but later the damage grows exponentially. So if you started out following the 10k interval recommendation, you can prettu much halt further degradation by going less than 5k/6 months when you get past 60k on odometer. Best to start this as early as possible, but not too late if you still don't burn much oil yet.
ASI=Automotive service industry
Cleaner oil is better oil.
You sir are one of the best mechanics I have ever run across, I take my hat off to you!
I'm learning so much from you, sir. Thank you so much. I drive close to 500 miles a week; I'll be checking the oil level of my 2016 Mazda 6 at least every three weeks or every month from now on.
I can’t help but think that 1 qt every 1200 miles is considered “normal” because they (not just Toyota but others as well) don’t want to have to pay for expensive warranty claims.
My Altima 250k not a drop of consumption.
your are correct they do not want to have to put a new long block in it
I had 1997 camry original owner drove it for 385k miles did my oil change every 5k miles with synthetic mobile 1 it never burned oil or had to add oil. Still runs good end up donating the car after 20 years
Wow that makes me more comfortable thinking about having a smiliar year Toyota and changing it roughly every 3000 Miles. It's got 140k on it
Exactly.
Thank you for this video! We just bought a 2023 Camry, and I was pleased with the notion of 10,000 mile oil changes. I now know we'll be keeping a 5K schedule. I really want this car to last after how expensive it was. Excellent video, very informative!
Do the CVT service too! Not sure what dealerships would charge, but I have a trusted transmission shop do it with Toyota fluid and parts for sbout $300. These CVTs have no dipstick & the procedure is a bit different than old school transmission filter service, but still should be done. There is also a "drain & fill" procedure where just one wuart can be swapped, without removing the pan, to keep the fluid clean.
just curious as to who told you about the 10 k oil change? It was the dealership as a way to sell this as a good thing or what?
@@walterherrera3733advertising to attract the lazy or cheap people. That 10k figure comes right from Toyota. Don't worry it'll get ya thru the warranty period!
I am totally and absolutely agree with you and admire everything you mentioned in this video also I've always suggested to my friends it's much better using cheaper oil and change them frequently at lower miles. instead of most expencive oils and change them rarely at high miles as same as you said at the end of your clip. and last not everyone has technical and mechanical experience or vision to deeply feel or understand what you're saying but don't worry my friend just keep doing your good and positive job.THANKS
I’m the opposite of most people. I change all fluids way too early, but then again I’ve never had car issues besides a bad alternator.
Same here
Amen brother I’m the same way.
For sure you not a Mazda owner, oil burnt every models.
@@alanw5812 and my Toyota Prius burns oil like gas. I top off every fill up. 😂 I’ve changed oil every 3-5k miles, never missed an oil change.
I do the same 5000km engine oil,jump once time change oil filter, auto fuild 20000km, my 2002 corolla 1zz-fe now 280000km ,no oil leak no water leak, only did brake and tires, the first time rear brake did at 260000km 😀.
I bought this car new, I think important is when engine run in time that 2000km,engine run in will made a lot of small metal,don't access 4000 rpm and replace engine oil just after you got the car, it's very black oil, and then next two 500km,replace again,then to 2000km replace oil again,now the car run in time is finish, you can do whatever you like.
I've been working on vehicles for over 30 years & one thing I learned is the dirt, metal shavings etc. will never leave your engine untill the oil & filter are changed. These particles scratch cylinders plug ports & destroy engines, so if you use synthetic oil change ever 5,000 & conventional oil 3,000. He is right.
i have watched you for a long time. My dad had said the things about oil change that you do. So when I bought my Camry xle with 44000 miles on it i followed you. Oil change Radiator flush. Everything fresh in the car. Thank you so much. Great work.
You're very meticulous the way you explain your videos, you are highly knowledgeable regarding your work, and very honest in what you do and say. Great Job ! And God Bless!
Your advice is solid and it's so much easier for us home car maintenance guys and gals to be changing the oil than to be changing an engine in the driveway.
its not just Toyota, its everyone now.
everything in this vid is correct.
It truly is
toyota had oil burning issues for decades
my Subaru engine had a class act against it, funny though I change my oil religiously and follow the maintenance schedule precisely, but have had no issues for over 85000 miles, weird ;)
My '99 Acura TL(286,000 miles) doesn't use more than half a quart between 5000 mile changes. 0W-20 in winter, 5W-30 in the summer. I flush the oil pan with 8-10 ounces of kersosene at every oil change.
Have 2016 Gen 3 TRD Offroad Tacoma ..... change every 3000 since new ...... NO OIL CONSUMPTION !!!!!!!!!..... 116,000 miles and counting ....... you are a treasure, Sir !!!!! Thank you for what you do !!!! 🙂
I have worked on cars since 1980 and Ahmed is the best I have ever seen!! I hate going 5k on an oil change! That;s why I like to go 4K!! Mostly highway too!! I finally have a Toyota a new 2024 Rav 4 gas awd and plan on listening even more intently now! BTW this is my 2nd time watching this :) TYVM we are Blessed to have such honest people!!! God Bless!!
I change my oil at 5k like clockwork because the car was a big expense for me. I would like it to last past the dam loan.
Yup, I have a 2005 4runner that purrs like a kitten. never went past 4-5 k between oil changes.
You have to remember to service the drive line axle, transfer, and Hopefully transmission
I argue with people all the time about this issue. You nailed this. Totally agreed with what you say. I'll keep changing my oil at 3000-4000 miles. Never have any issue with any of my vehicle. Great content.
Im a very experienced tech, I change oil in my vehicles at 5K and have never had any oil related engine issues.
One of my vehicles, a 2002 F150 has 190K miles has always had oil changed at 5k with valvoline 5w30 full synthetic and runs like new.
Its when people start wanting 10K oil changes that people run into issues
How about the car sitting in the garage how often has to be change . Drive twice a months ?
@@abebatesfaslasia9304every 6 months
@@abebatesfaslasia9304once a year if you don’t exceed the mileage within that time
This is precisely what I try to preach to all of my customers and their trusty cars.
I love all of my cars, especially my Toyota, and living in the desert, my oil changes don't follow the bottle, I drive my truck hard, and it gets put to work constantly. I change anywhere from 3500-4500 miles on synthetic oil and filters.
Thank you for such a detailed explanation, I bought a Toyota V 40 2.4 with a mileage of 84 thousand km, I don’t know how often the oil was changed in it, but after driving 5 thousand km I did not notice the oil burning, I changed it after 8 months with an escape of 5 thousand. Now I will try to do this in 6 months.
I don't know why every Toyota vehicle owner is not subscribed to your channel. My vehicle does not burn oil but does sit for weeks at a time. I check oil once a month and change it every 6 months no matter the mileage. Now I will fine tune the schedule lile you discussed because I can't afford to major repairs or a replacement. I didn't even search for this but CZcams may have saved our family a big headache and bill. I thank you both for the heads up.
Salesman told me about a couple who came in because their car's engine was running bad. Turned out they never changed the oil, the husband thought the wife was taking it in and she thought he was. Five years later they were on the hook for a replacement engine.
So who was resetting the "MAINTENANCE REQUIRED" light? LOL!!
The husband had someone "changing" his oil.
I over maintain all five of my cars, and yes, oil today costs a ton of money, but it is so worth it. I use only factory parts and good quality oil. One of my cars is a 2008 Toyota RAV4 with the infamous oil burning engine. I keep an eye on all the fluid levels. Another great video sir.
I was glad I came across your channel, I’m from Australia and you are a legend. Love your education episodes
Thank you for your honesty. It once again proves the point I have been making for 25 years and it applies to every engine, that the single most important thing you can do is keep your oil changed every 3 to 5,000 miles or once every 6 months or once per year if you don't drive 5,000 in a year. Oil is the life blood of an internal combustion engine. I would rather have an engine with 150k miles on it that had regular oil changes and maintenance than a 50k mile engine that has been neglected.
And, take five minutes and create a simple maintenance log/spreadsheet. It’ll help you NOW keeping track of everything maintenance wise and pay off big time when you go and sell the car. It’s pretty impressive when you can hand a prospective buyer the entire history.
You sir, are a national fricken treasure!! Keep fighting the good fight and I'll keep enjoying your thoroughly informative videos.
Amd, I strongly agree with your statement on how to prevent this. I own a 2015 toyota tacoma 4wd with the V6, I mow for a living, so, at least twice a week, I tow my trailer. It's almost 2,800lbs. I know that that is putting a lot more wear to the truck since it's a good amount of weight being towed twice a week. I am a firm believer in using a good quality oil just as you said, I personally have used mobil 1 full synthetic for years and have had great success. And I change it every 5,000 miles. 95% of the time, I'm changing it 500miles early. I'm a firm believer in oil change intervals, I never go by what the manufacturers say. When I took automotive courses in school, I've always been stressed 3,000miles if you use conventional, and 5,000miles for full synthetic.
First, I only watched this video because I couldn't believe there was a Toyota that suffered from oil consumption.
Second, great job of explaining everything at a level that I think most people will easily understand.
Third, you are ABSOLUTELY 100% correct. If you read all of the disqualifications, there are very few (almost NONE) driving conditions that allow the high mileage, long term oil changes. And yes, use good oil & an OEM filter. I have 4 domestic (3 Fords & 1 Chevy) vehicles with over 400,000 miles on the original engines. The one with the worst oil consumption loses 1 quart before the 3000-3500 mile oil change. Also, no matter how many miles you drive, NEVER go more than 6 months (3 in high humidity or changes in ambient temperatures ) between oil changes. The water vapor in the air mixes into the oil which will cause sludge build up in low concentrations to forming of corrosive acid in high concentration. Either case will obviously cause severe engine damage. Another no no is using real good oil with a cheap (including Fram) filter. Wal Mart stocks several OEM filters for under $5. Think about this, 5 quarts of Castrol & an OEM filter for less than $25.. Average cost to replace the engine runs around $5000 and will usually have about a week of down time. That means you can change the oil 200 times at an average loss of 30 minutes each, yielding a staggering 800,000 miles for the same $5000 at 4000 mile intervals $5,000/$25 =200. 200*4,000=800,000. This assumes that you have performed the labor yourself. If you spend $100 each oil change, you will still equate 50 oil changes or 200,000 miles per engine swap price.
Thanks a lot for such an honest concern for anyone who owns a Toyota car. Truly, the culprit while there is burning oil is the fact that owners fail to change oil regularly as prescribed by the technician. Now I know that when time comes that I acquire my own car, I would do what I have learned. God bless you always sir in all your undertakings.
I have a 2022 toyota corolla le, my first oil change was at 750 miles I now have 17,250 miles and 9 oil changes. Plus driving to San Diego ca. from orange park Florida and back. each time I had an oil change, the only issue I had was when the toyota dealer in san diego changed my oil they used 0/16w instead of 0/20w which the owners manual instructed me to do , the guy who called you crazy must really enjoy throwing his hard earned money away hopefully after he has to buy another vehicle he will listen to your words of wisdom and learn thank you for your most welcome videos.
I did mine every 5,000 miles and I used Mobil synthetic. My car runs very well and muffler pipe is very clean and my car had 125,456 miles no major issues except changing spark plugs and transmission fluid, and filters every 30,000 miles. My car is Toyota Yaris 2007. Very good car. I love it.
As a fellow professional tech, couldnt have said it better myself. Thank you for all the info sharing.
Don't forget that those short trip generate a lot of condensation in the engine block too. So if they don't have extended drives that heat the engine and oil enough to "boil off" the water you contaminate the oil even faster. That is why when remove the oil fill cap you will find white/grey foam under the cap. Seen that too many times.
Thanks man!!!
Yes, the shorter your trips, the more often you must change oil due to the water moisture and acidic combustion gases that get past rings and condense in the oil pan, using up the precious acid reduction additives in the oil. Short trips reduce the TBN or total base number of the oil, requiring oil change sooner to prevent oil degradation that leads to deposits in such areas as the ring grooves on the pistons. Longer trips heat the oil up enough to essentially boil off these contaminants and send them out the crankcase PCV system to be reburned in the engine before they use up the available TBN in the oil additive package.
Holy shit. I have been abusing my engine like a red headed step child.
my commute is only 6.5 miles..i warm it up good then try to hit 80 most days to get that temp. up..
thanks for that tip i will keep in mind best wishes
Thank for the heads up brother.
Finally someone with experience shows some guidance
Thank you for your honesty! Maintenance intervals are a must do
I’ve always changed my oil on my Toyota’s at 5000 miles. Our 2006 Tacoma uses zero oil at 230,000 miles.
You are spot on about changing the life blood ( OIL )at least no more than 5000 mile intervals. Thanks
Good to hear. To bad I hear about a lot of the Prius's burning oil like crazy.
Or just never fix oil leaks that way you can always be changing the oil out for new
This video makes so much sense. My 2020 highlander states 10K oil changes, but my maintenance reminder comes on at 5K miles. Thank you, you probably just saved me a lot of trouble.
I'm sure you don't hear enough positive feedback. But I have to yell you, you are 110% on point. I'm a tech and shop owner for 38 years in the industry & I preach exactly what you said. You are an amazing young man preaching truth and with faith! May God bless you and your family! Even the ones that aren't religious on their oil changes. Keep up the good work!
Excellent video, I check the oil on my cars and chage it when it gets to about half way black on the dip stick which is approximately every 3000-5000 miles. Always use full synthetic and only top up when the oil is somewhat translucent.
Every car is different and sometimes driving habits change. I use trip B to log how many kilometers since previous oil change.
My engines always start and run smooth
Take care of your engine and the car will take care of you.
My uncle was a master mechanic for Toyota and he always told everyone in my family to change oil every 3000 miles 3500 max if you don’t want expensive problems. The ones who argued and didn’t listen were always having oil issues with their new cars I myself was one of them on my first car off the lot just doing what the dealership recommended and at 44000 miles I was burning 1.5 courts of oil every 5-6k miles. Sold my car to carmax and will do what my uncle said with my newer car lol. GREAT VIDEO!
New full synthetic oil is fine with 5k miles or 6-12 months.
@@davidwang2777 Not according to the Toyota and the Master Mechanic who is making this presentation. The oil becomes fuel diluted by leaking injectors after 6 months.
Its 5000 or every 6 months.
Every 3k 3.5k oil change is just same cost as the repair in the longterm :) even people says 5k oil change if toyota tells you 10k it is 10k i dont think so anybody knows better than Toyota himself
@@cartuber1570 If you pay the dealer to do it. 🤣 I could do my oil 30 times for about $1000. An engine is like 5 grand without labor
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. You explained why my son’s Acura started burning oil. He makes short trips. Luckily, we began 5000 mile oil changes as soon as we noticed oil consumption between changes. The Acura is now using about 1 quart between changes. Also, we use full synthetic oil. If you really want to know how your oil is performing, get an oil analysis by Blackstone. One more thing, if you have a turbo charged engine, you need to change the oil frequently because it breaks down, regardless whether it’s synthetic or not. That is when the Blackstone analysis is worth doing, also.
For sure with the turbos. My twin turbo starts to smell heavily like gasoline after a couple thousand miles. Super high compression and blowby. I change the oil every 3,000
I bought a used 2000 Celica because I liked the body style and the gas mileage was a lot better than my Durango (16 mpg). I had to learn the dark side of the 1ZZ pretty quick. With 300k miles it had bad blow-by that was spitting oil through the oil cap, the OCV was broken, valve cover gasket was leaking. I was literally spending more on oil than on fuel. Every time I filled up I went 320 miles but also was using 5 quarts per tank of fuel. Even after replacing the OCV, running engine cleaners, replacing gaskets and oil cap it still went through 3 quarts of oil per tank but only if I was really easy on the throttle. If I got on the interstate, that's when the oil burning was worse.
I let a friend borrow it for 3 days while his vehicle was getting fixed. He didn't understand the severity of checking the oil every time before he started it up. Blew the engine up and left it on the side of the road. I still like the car, but the headaches were too much.
I watch your channel almost every day, and the thing is, I own one of those German cars you are always singling out for their reliability issues. I agree with that assessment, but like you with the love of the LS430, I am the same way about the older 3 series. I've owned 4 and try as I might, I can't find another channel like yours - a master mechanic who is also an honest, hard-working and customer-caring for information on BMWs.
I can't find anything like your channel for any other brand of car as well. I wish other master mechanics saw your channel and did something similar for the brands they love and work on.
Keep up the great work - and hurry up with finishing up your 600,000 mile LS430! I was hoping you'd mention when we might see that in your latest video. I'm also looking forward to that 'next project' you mentioned that was coming soon.
Best of luck and continued success AMD - you are one-of-a-kind!
I used to have a next door neighbor in my old home who was a retired Canadian military officer in charge of maintaining everything with an engine in it.
This was how he would check the engine oil: took a good sniff at the dipstick while noticing the level, rubbed the oil between his fingers while noticing the color and texture. Apparently that is how he determine if a change is needed.
Very interesting!
You might also like the oil story about early Aston Martin DB5s. The sump was so small that at high prolonged speed almost all the oil was in the passages leaving a low sump that began sucking air. The book I read was the people in Italy that were driving at high speed and destroying engines under warranty was so frequent Austin Martin stopped answering their telephones!
You are such a wise man. Thank-you for helping everyone and breaking the facts down. I work in reman and re-sleeve, bore and hone blocks everyday. I see these scored walls everyday.
Listen to this man, I have a 2014 Nissan Sentra and I drove it as an Uber driver, my Nissan now is 240K and I never skip a beat with my oil change, always bought a full synthetic every 5000 miles, it's amazing that my car is still working with just an alternator change engine and transmission is still original and that's a miracle knowing that I have a Nissan, my car survive because I'm strict when it comes to oil change.
Thank you for preaching it over and over.. we change the oil every 6 months or around 3k miles.
I change oil myself every 4 to 5K miles but I've only driven the vehicle 90K miles in over 14 yrs. Yes, I bought it new, and one year I only drove the Escape less than 5K in over 12 months and I didn't change the oil for a year. Of course, now I wished I'd changed it earlier. The 3.0L Ecoboost V6 Ford Escape engine runs exclusively with Pennzoil full synthetic Ultimate Platinum 5W-20 and am switching to the high mileage 75K mile oil with the same top-level Pennzoil full synthetic oil. Almost never is the oil really dirty once I drop it. The engine runs as good as when it was new. Changing oil as you stated is the best for the engine. Love your videos.
You are absolutely correct! I think a person such as yourself will find this very very interesting:
I know a girl from Hong Kong who's father rebuilds 2AZ-FE engines for Toyota. He gets the engines free from Toyota Dealers in the USA, rebuilds them, and then they go into 07-09 cars which have the 2AZ-FE engine which failed Oil Consumption Tests.
Since he works directly with Toyota, he found out some inside information... Every 07-09 car with the 2AZ engine had problems if they took their cars to a Jiffy/Quick lube who used 5W-30 for every car and waited 5K miles to change... Those 2AZ-FE engines had ZERO margins for thicker oil because of the few and small oil return holes in the piston, and the oil return ring being too small with little tension.
The Toyota Dealers had a trick to prevent profit loss and engine replacement time... They put 1 cup of Seafoam in the crankcase, ran the car on idle 30 minutes, let it sit overnight, and then changed the oil with Mobil 1 5W-20 Synthetic. Many engines then passed the Oil Consumption Test after 1,200 miles... moreover, those engines didn't burn oil, or very little, thereafter if they ONLY changed oil at the dealer using 5W-20... The engines that were ultimately replaced had OVER 80,000 miles, oil changes at Quick Lubes using 5/10W-30, and they waited until 5K+ miles to change... Like you said, "Change oil often!" That is definitely the case with the 2AZ-FE engine, and NOTHING THICKER than 5W-20...
So basically the 2AZ-FE is a GREAT engine and can last 500,000 miles+ if the oil is changed before 5,000 miles, and only with 5W-20...
Thanks for your excellent videos...
I change mines every 4000 miles and my 2001 rav4 is running strong at 308,000 miles with original engine and trans.
How long did your fuel pump last?
I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla with 291k on it I change my oil between 4 to 5k. I only started using a little oil at 285k. I was about 1/2 a quart low after 5k. Great cars only parts i have had to replace was water pump at 125k an alternator at 185k. an ignition coil at 215k. Orignal transmission still. I replace that fluid at 160k... ack... my bad but now I am replacing the fluid about ever 60k from then on. Still the orignal fuel pump as well.
Your old engine has thick piston rings, nowadays to get more hp and gain mpg - thinner piston rings, thinner oil.
@@pfoxhound Everything to get rid of "resistance" and parasitic power losses to improve MPG, they have done!
Own a 2006 Toyota Corolla 1.4 vvt-i Manual with 77,000 miles and it doesn't burn any oil at all. I change the oil and filter myself every 6 months without fail. I hope to get many years of use.
Love this. Thank you my guy. Explained a lot for me.following you. I have a master mechanic and my dealership was giving me run arounds to pick the engine out when I already can have that. Saw the Diagnostics from the dealer and they mine as well be the “new car” seller lol I appreciate this post my man! Thank you.
I remember when I bought my tC in 2016, I had the 2 free years/20k miles of ToyotaCare for maintenance come with the car. I could not fathom 10k mile Oil Intervals, I started changing the oil @ 5k after getting the tires rotated at the dealer and took the 2 free oil changes at 10 and 20k respectively. I've done 4,500-5,500 mile intervals for the past 100k miles with no issues other than the slight water pump weep-hole leak that the 2AR is known for that I top off a REALLY small amount every 10k. As a car I've had for the past 7 years, I couldn't ask for anything other than another 7-10 years of great life :)
Btw, I love your videos! I worked in automotive for 10 years on my path to getting an M.A. in History and becoming a teacher, not only do you present information in an approachable manner, but you back up everything you say with experience, undeniable fact or, both. You speak in a way that reminds me of the best mechanics I had the fortune of getting to know and you are an absolute wealth of information for everyone, not just us Toyota lovers!
My Dad used to faithfully change oil in His vehicles every 6 months even if he didn't drive them a whole lot. I think they always lasted at least 10 years and never used any oil.
When I see that oil start to look brownish instead of the clear amber color--It's dirty and I change it. You can clearly see it on the dipstick. This usually happens before 3000 miles. Sometimes it's 1500 if I am not driving it much.
@@rons5319 you can use color, but it's a bad indicator. any residual fluid that is left in the system eventually mixes with the new fluid and changes the color. They make test strips that are a lot more accurate and would probably save you money than changing it whenever it gets dark.
@@custommotor I think it's a good indicator. Residual fluid doesn't have such an effect on the new oil. When I changed the almost black oil from the previous owner of my used car, it took a few months until it became darker and after the last change 3 months ago, I'm still waiting for oil to go dark. It's still clear.
However, I haven't been driving that much lately, that's probably the reason. All in all, it can be a good indicator.
the old time cars only ever changed my oil at 3000 miles, if it took two years to get there. One little caveat, often owned two vehicles and when I did drive, for the most part it was a 20 mile highway trip. Many of my vehicles have got into the ripe old age of 20 and even 30 years old too. Never any engine problems, other than hanging lifters, some oil consumption of course. However, I do not generally keep them to what we think of as advanced mileage these days, 150k +/- and time to update!
@AMD First and foremost a big thankyou for all your educational contributions. That said I'm a licensed mechanic with 38 years experience mostly as a Chrysler dealer tech. I've worked on enough Mitsubishi low tension piston ring engines over the years like 2.6L I4 and 3.0L V6 engines to confirm that you are absolutely correct 100%. People lose sight of the time factor vs mileage and what constitutes severe service. As you say oil is cheap don't skimp it's cheap insurance twice a year regardless of miles simple. You get no argument out of me. Spent a lifetime working for Chrysler retired and bought a Toyota. Enough said. Please keep up the good work I certainly appreciate what your teaching me about my new Toyota knowing that not all dealer techs are as liberal with their knowledge as you are. Kudos.
Thank you very much sir! Means a lot coming from a veteran mechanic like yourself. Thank you for watching!
Is the Chrysler 300 a reliable car or just problematic? I rented one and it was so much fun. Just wondering?
Change your oil once every 6 months with a more expensive filter. Change your fuel filter and anti freeze every 12 months. Cheers.
I was once a certified mechanic at Toyota dealerships more than a decade ago and we were forced to perform every 10,000 miles oil change on every brand new or fairly low age vehicles regardless of a mileage or amount of time from the first date of purchase until they reach at 25,000 miles under Toyota Auto Care free of charge coverage to all customers. If Toyota fails to address your statement to all Toyota and Lexus owners, their reputations will soon to be plunged down with all negative reviews and comments within a short matter of time during these days and age. And thank you for sharing your comments for the importance double-checking service history on every vehicle prior to purchase.
I'm amazed you spend so much time stressing frequent oil changes without mentioning going by how your oil looks. If it looks fresh leave it alone. If it's low top it off. As it turns brown it's time to schedule an oil change or do it yourself. DON'T let it turn black! See how easy? That's what I learned 45 years ago.
This video saved the engine of a friend of mine.
2007 Camry I4, burning half a litre of oil every 5000 km. I told him to get some oil detergent additive, and after two oil changes, the car no longer burns oil at all!
I have that car and had that problem. Toyota replaced the pistons for free. Not sure if the program is still going.
Detergent addictive is engine oil flush. Is it?
Everytime I change my oil by months instead of miles I get lectured by my oil change “specialists” that there is no reason to do this no matter how long it’s been. Thank you so much for this valuable information and God bless.
I have a take home car in Cook County, I don't drive my car that much but I do my oil changes every 6 months or 3-5 whichever comes first. great info.
One hundred percent agree with your advice, very consistent and technical
You are 100% correct about t oil changes. I have owned over 50 cars with 0 engine issues by changing oil every 3500 miles. I like what you say, but I change that oil!
As a retired 30 year Toyota Technician!, 24 of which as an MDT... I couldn't agree with you more! I have performed over 50 oil consumption recalls on 2AZ's. I've owned several 2AZ's, 1ZZ's, 1MZ's and 3MZ's that have gone over 300,000 miles with no oil consumption! It's all about oil quality and change intervals. There were all serviced at 3,000 miles with Mobil1. Even 3MZ's with oil gel issues weren't a problem with proper maintenance schedules and quality oils. In the case of the 3MZ's I've been told by numerous Toyota FTS's and Product Engineers, that the gel issues they experienced were due to intentionally increased combustion temperatures to reduce NOX emissions! Your videos are largely spot on and you should be commended for keeping the public properly informed!!! As some others have commented Toyota has extended there service intervals to reflect lowered operating costs and reduce environmental impact.
Thank you for tuning in my brother! I hope you are enjoying your retirement!
I work in power plants running gas turbines, what’s odd is they told you high temps lowers NOX, that’s the opposite of what’s true. We lower our combustion temps in gas turbines, to lower NOx with water injection. So lower combustion temps means lower NOx, but higher CO. It’s a trade off but we have to monitor and tweak water injection for emissions in power plants.
my late 90s 1.6l black top 4age ate oil.
I've helped a friend find a used MR2 Spyder because it is one of the few roadsters he can fit in.
His requirements were: a convertible top and a 5sp manual transmission.
It has the 1zz engine and I'm terrified of it beginning to burn oil.
My name would be mud!
He is 100% correct! I work at a service department at a Toyota dealership. Folks just change your oil and filter every 3k-5k or every 6 months and your good.
Reminds me of how I live my life , every 3 to 4 years but never longer than 5 years I change my wife. Yes it can be a little more expensive in the short term but it is doing wonders for my longevity. You are a treasure to the youtube community, keep up the good work.
You ,Buddy’ are the best most knowledgeable guy around. I’ve been cab driver for almost 40 years and I use to change oil at 3000 miles before synthetic and 5000 with synthetic and obviously have no burning problems lol!!!
I use petroleum based oil in my 4cyl diesel and change it in January and July. My wife wondered if I was over doing things until I showed her this video. Now I'm the man!
FYI, even full synthetic is petroleum based oil
@@tgw230 No matter the base. Synthetic oil is the moniker which differentiates it from straight petroleum oil.
@@tomquinn607and “conventional oil” is the industry name for the counterpart not petroleum oil. I work in the industry. It's ok to learn and be wrong sometimes.
Motor oil can be called full synthetic even if it has hardly any synthetic oil in it. Try to find out the percentage of PURE synthetic oil in any brand of "full synthetic" from any oil company. You will never find that information.
Gee, I wonder why???
@@jimiguitar3252 sorry that's not true. It's about the base oil. Visit bobistheoilguy and educate yourself. You'll learn a lot on that site from engineers.