REPAIR VIDEO:2011 Hyundai Santa Fe Engine leak. Failed oil pressure switch.
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- čas přidán 26. 03. 2017
- Good 3 hour job to get those ratchets moving!
At first it seemed like a rear main.
My issue looked exactly like this
• Hyundai Santa Fe 2010 ...
I did not see any repair videos. None showing any actual steps to do the job. Hopefully my video helps anyone figure out if its worth their time to do themselves, or end up taking it to a shop. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Fun weeknight, thanks for the walkthrough.
Couple tricks:
Both fuel rails will come out together once the 5-10mm screws are gone(only gas will be drips from the injectors). Just flip the entire rail assembly upside down and place by the throttle body.
24mm box end on the switch(note how many turns and orientation to get it out so you don’t over-tighten)
Great video, thanks for documenting the actual steps! It was super helpful!
Just finished this on my 2011 Kia Sorento SX. A couple quick tips while they are still fresh:
-To get the sensor out is a pain. You need a 24mm deep socket, universal joint, a short and long extension.
-For the bottom half of the intake it's a #6 Hex socket.
-The back passenger side bolt that's holding the intake is the only 14mm bolt. Everything else is a 10mm except the one 12mm holding the throttle body.
I was able to do the job without removing the airbox, or completely disconnecting the fuel rail and upper manifold.
Total price for the sensor was $4.60 CAD at the dealership!
I'm literally crying right now. I think I've been robbed of $2200. Mechanic's claimed it was the real seal. They fixed that up, but then stated when they started up the car again there was still leak, now its the pressure switch
Yep mechanics are ass hats
I went through 10 Litres of oil on way home from Vacation in my 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 3.5L . When I found your video I bought the switch for $20 and installed it. Problem fixed. Thanks for the video!
First CZcams comment ever but THANK you for the incredibly detailed vid! I got the death oil light flicker and tackled this myself. So far so good.
I was pretty scared of doing this myself but after watching this video I'm gunna tackle it myself. Seems pretty straightforward. Great video!
Hey man thanks for sharing your video helped me out 10 hrs to complete the job
Thank you! I actually fell in this trap. Had rear main replaced. If I had only done a little bit more research. Pulled my intakes and sure enough the valley was full of oil. Thank you for the video
Great detailed process and explanation. Especially the reinstall. I have a 2012 Kia Sorento 3.5L FWD w/ 105K miles. The oil light just started flickering and stayed on at low idle - no leak. Took me ~4 hours last night but I took many pics and made sure to take my time and store all the bolts in separate bins. Many of the wire connectors were color coded and formed to reconnect fairly easily. Also changed the plugs per your follow up vid's tip. Cleaned MAF & throttle body too. Oil light is off but will post back if it comes back... Used Kia part as AutoZone didn't have it in stock. Old part had some oil in the connector cavity so it may have started to leak eventually.
Overall, easier than I thought but still a bit scary as it's my wife's car.
My tips: Watch the video several times. Get the 6mm hex socket and 24mm socket with universal swivel joint and 3" extender. Be careful tucking or removing hoses. I missed reconnecting one 1/2" hose behind the throttle body which when running at normal temp caused the engine light to come on popping codes P2016, P2110, P061B and C0700. Loud air sounds after driving awhile clued me in on where it was even though I was basically staring right at it. Cost me an hour in the morning and a rough nights sleep.
Thanks again. Got me driving the next day and saved me the cost/frustration of a mechanic who would probably not diagnose it right.
cool, thanks for sharing. I need to do this job on my '11 V6 Sorento. Do you have the pictures online by chance?
thank you very much for this video, it saved me a lot of time and money , was looking at replacing the rear main seal. great video again many thanks. Charlie.
From the service manual:
Tightening torque:
14.7 ~ 21.6 N.m (1.5 ~ 2.2 kgf.m, 10.8 ~ 15.9 lb-ft)
Also, manual says:
When installing, apply sealant on the thread part.
Seal lock : THREE BOND 2403
Thickness : 0.2 ~ 0.4 mm (0.008 ~ 0.016 in.)
24mm deep socket:
When removing and installing the oil pressure switch, use a deep socket as shown in the image below.
3/8" drive deep socket (24mm) with thin wall and the length less than 75mm.
Thanks - was looking for the torque!
Proper video... great job dude.
I shall be doing a 2012 tomorrow..same issues... light on
Leaking a bit of oil as well.
Very clean video..
+Luke K Thanks! Means a lot!!!
It looks like a good time to change the rear spark plugs since that upper manifold has to come off to access them.
thank you very much helped us very much in fixing the car today
Great video. Made the job go smoothly. 3 hrs taking my time. The most challenging part was finding a socket to fit into position to remove the sending unit. It's a tight spot. Wondering what the book time is on this job.
hi there,
my 2007, sta fe got the same problem oil drips between the transmission & ENGINE while is on idle... but when you rev it up oil is oozing out from that hole
please let me know if we have the same case thanks
👌 🙏 for sharing this video, very helpful
Hey what was the torque specs on the upper intake manifold ?
Hello
My 3 month old hyundai tucson with 3500 km on it had the check engine light flashing for a few seconds then it happened after a minute again while i was driving at 65 km/s . I felt a slight vibration during this then the flashing light went away and never came back since . Outside temp was very cold .-15c and roads very salty .now after a few months the flashing light never came back . Any thoughts .
and also about how much torque did you put on those bolts?generally.
Can you teflon the oil pressure switch when you put it in or will that affect the switch.?
Hey man, this happened to our Santa Fe about 3 months ago. Dealer quoted 850, we totally didn't care enough about it, so it's been parked in out garage since. After finding this vid, in an effort to get it running and sell it, I took a shot at it. Unfortunately, while ratcheting the new sensor back in I over-torqued and cracked the female end attached to the head. (I already feel bad enough people don't remind me lol).
Good news is that - it looks like receiving end of thread can be replaced, but the coolant pipe in the valley needs to be removed. Will draining out a bit of the radiator be enough to remove coolant from this pipe?
Would you have any advice you could share with me?
Kia Hyundai wanted $600 Cad. Local garage did it for 400. Probably most frequent problem for their otherwise flawless Lambda engine. In 11 years I had to replace 3 oil switches. That’s less than 4 years per one. Telluride and Palisade share the engine. The cost to be aware of.
Great video, very helpful. I notice that no gaskets were replaced, wouldn't that be a good time to do it? I know the newer gaskets last a lot longer than the old school ones I am familiar with, but I'd love to save the cash if I don't need to replace them.
Anyone else here not change them when changing the unit? Thank you
Thanks very much for posting this, I was ready to take my wife's Santa Fe to a repair shop because I also though it was a leaking main seal. Much appreciated you taking the time to make this video. It saved me a lot of trouble.
Thanks Im super happy that a lot of other people found this helpful.
Hey Dude good job!same problem here, but could you possibly enumerate for us what tools did you used for this job like socket sizes,extensions etc....thanks in advance, Im just a novice DIY Guy.
Just did this job, some ask for the torque for the bolts, just tighten them hand tight and be careful with the plastic harness on the front, it can easily break
This helped so much just having issues getting the pressure switch off such a tight spot 😹
What size of a socket were you using?
Also,I didn’t use a socket,couldn’t get it past the cooling pipe,used a 15/16 box end wrench and had to turn it each time but it worked. That’s why I broke housing too much torque on end of wrench and didn’t feel tight.
Broke my housing too. I'm trying to replace it still. How did you get that coolant pipe out of the way? Can't get the last bolt out of the housing because of the coolant pipe.
Did this on a kia sedona by removing air box only using a lot of 1/4 inch extensions and a 3/8 adapter sae 15/16 socket worked better used a pick to unplug go in from driver side
I did it.Thank you!
Question to anyone, everyone. Would RTV silicone around the threads of that sensor prevented from leaking again ??
I have this problem at this present moment, is it worth getting fixed?...How much is this going to cost?
Question on pulling out the fuel rail. After all the bolts are out, is it a hard pull to pull the fuel rail with the green fuel injectors out of their sockets? They seem tight and I don't want to pull too hard, or is it normal to pull hard, or is there a trick to it? Nice video!
I was able to get fuel rail injectors out of their sockets by "encouraging" them with a screwdriver prying action while pulling up. I finished the job and everything went well. Changed the spark plugs too while the intake is off!
Hello,
I have a Santa fe 2015, i have problem of brake system when i push the button it turn on but it doesn't release the brake when i push it again, can you send me the schema of braking system and tell me what do you think about this problem?
Cordially
Good video man! Music was a bit loud but helped alot
Great video! However I didn’t know how tight to put in new switch and over tightened and broke switch housing. Now I have to remove coolant tube and not sure how. Which side is the easiest to remove
Alan Gilder I made this mistake as well, did u ever figure it out?
awesome great video ...
Dude my 2011 also has the same problem. Was wondering what the process looked like to replace the switch. Thanks a ton for posting this video! I'm assuming it did but, did this fix your leak?
GMLancers58 Yup! the car has been running great for the past week now.
How many Hrs labor was this🙋♀️
I got 2019 kia sorento v6. I think I have to do the same thing on my car.
I need help replacing oil filter housing show me please!!!
I changed my oil pressure switch 3 weeks ago and still leaking
mine has the p200a code and need to remove the intake manifold.. not sure what is causing this.
Are you using a swivel to get to the oil switch? Need to know...I'm looking at mine as I type lol
Thanks a bunch for posting this video!
Yes I used a small swivel and extension
Late reply but yes a swivel is what I used to get that silly sensor out.
LoL Thanks, I just did this repair again.
hey i like ty for ur you tube it help me out a lot ty for share it to us
Good time to change plugs
What to do if the part where pressure switch mounts strips or cracks? Can i fix that part at home? Please help if you know? Thanks!
You have to replace the housing. Yes it can be done at home.
Did a 2008 sante fe, 3.3L. Sits under oil filter housing, used a 15/16 deepwell socket and extentions to get it out, tight squeeze but didn't have to take anything apart. No more leak.
I have a 2008 too. Got a video?
Did I miss it? There's a 14mm bolt on the back, on the left, as you face the engine. A major pain to remove, and an even bigger pain to replae.
you do address the replacement of that bolt at 8:17 . Any tips on replacing that one? Mine is still off.
How many miles on your engine whent the switch failed?
83k for mine
GREAT VIDEO can we get rid of the music drowning out your narration ? very quick and informative ! !kudos
Just did this and oil still seems to still be leaking out. Is it just possible that it's left over oil from before?
Bryan Coucill yes usually i try to soak up as much as possible with a rag or something
Yep. Just ended up being left over oil. What oil do you recommend that I put in the vehicle when I do my oil change?
i was going motor and tran thank you for saving me much time and inbaserment
The oil light keeps coming out on mine ,but only when I'm coming to a stop or park. Once I accelerate it goes away. No oil leaks or stutter. Idles, runs, and sounds fine. Could it be a bad oil pressure sensor?
I would start by replacing it because its so cheap.
@@GridWerksGarage But the labor for such a small and inexpensive part is horrible haha, but I'll try it out. Thanks
Hey man, Im having the same issues with my 2015 Santa Fe. Did replacing the Oil sending unit fix your issues? What year is yours?
@@thomascarter9674 did u fixed yours?
@@lupitacarballo4925 I paid to have it fix. This was indeed the issue. Be sure to get a genuine Hyundai part. I paid to replace it twice..
how do you purge the fuel system?
Figured it out!! I just did this today, followed your video and got it done, massive thank you! Hardest part was getting the sensor off, black pipe in the way, and the deep socket I had wouldn't fit in there. Ended up using a crescent wrench very slowly, but it worked! I've no idea how you got yours in there! Thanks again!
Just put a video out on how to purge it too but thanks!!!!
To depressurize the fuel system, I just pulled the fuel pump relay while the car was running for about 10-15 seconds until it started sputtering.
Totally insane design. 3 hours to replace a $16.00 part. I think I'll just sell my car.
I bought this sensor for 8$ new
what is the name of the sensor ? .. it seems that i have the same problem on my hyundai
Can’t watch for the music and can’t hear you
Novice here. Did you replace any gaskets?
+Alicia Marie nope not one!
I was told this is the exact same process for a Kia Sorento. Do you know if that's true?
For anyone else asking: It's the exact same engine as I am doing this on a 2011 Sorento with the 3.5L V6.
Kia sorento 2011
I appreciate your video but the music is so loud and distracting that I cannot hear what you are saying.
I did it ... cracked the oil pressure switch housing....
I am royally FU#@ED!
Any tips for how NOT to do this?? Im scared...
+Luke K ouch. Just tightened it too much?
+Alicia Marie bw gental and try to imagin you know what you are doing. That was pretty much me while i did it.
Hey... so i put on Teflon tap to make sure it was 100% sealed... it was too much tape i guess and i heard a crack...
Unscrewed it . All seemed fine ...put it back in and housing split....
It was easy to replace.
Only shitty part..
In canada dealer charges basically 108$ with new gasket...new switch (installed) so it wasnt a hard job.... just sucks getting cooler pipe off....
Over all ok.
Thanks for video. If i knew how to add pics I'd show you.
Btw
I put it all together ... was installing last left hand side intake cover nut... i fumbled... and fell to bottom of the v6. Lol
I had no choice but to take everything apart lol
Also.... no need to panic. I thought it was one piece....but its not ... use wood and a pry bar ...and it pops off... be careful..... go straight up ... there are 2 position metal guides...
So housing... straight up.... when removing..
May need a little power to pop it up.. but its not too hard.
Stupid engineering, to place switch there!