Got your first pressure switch video saved, used it to replace my wife’s on her 2011 sorento (same motor, different name) when I talked to the dealership they told me it sounded like the main seal and to get it towed. I laughed and told them what little I did know is that it was coming from the “drain” and the guy told me their was no drain, I love playing “lost” and then throwing what I do know in their face. Anyway, about $900 is what I was told, came home found your video, spent $19.99 at Autozone with lifetime replacement and 7 hours missed from work (I milked it) cost me around $220 adding the day off of work. It also gave me the confidence to work on my 2000 Nissan Maxima again (had to replace oil pump, chain driven) so thank you.
First off both of your videos helped me when I replaced mine. I just replaced mine for the 2nd time. I think one of the reasons it went bad this time was I inadvertently overfilled the engine oil. Not by a lot but this may have caused excess pressure and caused the oil to leak through the sensor. My suggestion is to be careful and never overfill oil. Second one I replaced in less than three hours start to finish. I did not change gaskets or spark plugs.
The initial rattle at start up is the timing chain tensioner. They build back up oil pressure and it goes away quickly. Very common problem with the 3.5.
Good to know. I have the same model and engine, it also makes that rattle. I took it to a Hyundai dealer and they couldn't identify the source of the rattle.
Hi my daughter has a 2010 Hyundai Sante Fe AWD Limited with that 3.5 engine. At 60k miles had a shop replace the oil sender. At that time he said I did need a rear main too, but he would send that out to a transmission garage. he wouldn't do it. I didn't have the rear main done, and it has continually dripped oil. He said some of the oil was from the valley he couldn't get out when he replaced it. the rest from rear main. I did take it to a Sullivan Tire and they said it was a rear main, and to another garage, and they also said rear main. the 2nd private garage said don't do it. With 90k miles not worth opening the can of worms, plus paying him $1100. Everything is rusted from Massachusetts winters. Plus it only uses a quart every 2500-3000 miles, so he said live with the driveway leaks and pour a quart in every 2 months. What are the odds it actually really is the rear main? Any chance you know of a video for a newbie, that will show me up close what to look for to diagnose the rear main leak vs the oil sender going bad again?
Startup noise is related to timing chain tensioners and a design flaw with lack of oil getting to them when cold. Have heard lots of owners recommend OEM oil filters, which I tried on my own '11 SF, but did not make a noticeable difference for the added cost ($12 aftermarket filter VS $20 OEM). 170k kms with no oil leaks or sensor issues yet. And yes, I live in Nova Scotia, Canada, notorious for cold winter weather.
Thanks for the video. It really helped me. My pressure switch failed and this really helped me do the repair myself. Took me just under 4 hours, that included a beer and a couple of short breaks. The one thing I didn't like is you have to put everything back together before you can restart your car. So you are kind of hoping everything is secure. It has been two months now and no issues. I'm not sure why mine failed- perhaps it just wore out. I'm wondering if the part could have failed because the oil level was overfilled. Garage where I get oil changes changed oil maybe two weeks before this happened, and with all the oil that leaked out my oil level was still nearly on full.
That cold start rattle could also be the cam phasers. Mine would get worse with colder weather and then subside when it got warm. Ended up getting an engine replaced (under warranty) because the timing components were shredding metal at some point.
Looks pretty cold there... they recalled these in Canada because the o-ring shrinks in cold weather causing the switch to fail. Cold locations in the US? Nope. Pretty lousy. Mine seems to have failed when we had a couple week long hard freeze. Thanks for the other video showing the install!
I had two failures as well. The first replacement I did was a 3rd party one from the auto parts store, it failed after two years. replaced it again with an OEM one and so far so good. If it fails again I'm going to sell this POS.
I know this is an old video, but did you ever get a resolution on the engine noise on cold start up the Hyundai 3.5? I have the same identical issue. Thanks
thank you for this update video and the original. i have a 2011 kia sorento, oil leak, will check this out from the top. kia wants $1900 for a gasket replacement around the timing cover? anyways, wish me luck. also on your original video, how did you do engine work with a white t-shirt and still looked clean at the end?!! :)
What I want to know is why this problem keeps happening? What is the root cause of the oil pressure spike? First time I had the rear main seal and PCV valve replaced, now it's the same plus the oil filter housing??? What is the deal with this engine?
Hi all, I have a fix to prevent this happening or happening again bc this happened to me twice. Had to fix the rear main seal and pcv valve twice. FIX: Pressure relief valve set to ~4PSI
@NigelM18 what I did was tap the oil cap for an air line, air line to air/oil separator and a pressure valve on the outlet. Now instead of the p valve I just have a muffler, direct vent to atmosphere
I am on to my 3rd Oil pressure switch on my Santa Fe. you mentioned that it was winter when you changed yours and that seems to be the contributing factor here as mine are Ok until the temp drops below maybe -20Deg C then it starts to leak again.It seems that the plastic part of the switch just cracks due to the temperature change, I really don't think they are built for the severe temps we have here in Canada, plus they don't even come with a Block heater.
Hello Mankey- I have a 2011 Kia Sorento same problem the oil pressure switch. I was told by Kia (600.00) I took it to Firestone they replaced the part ( 365.00) I drove the car today and noticed oil leaking again after the part was replaced yesterday. What could cause this? Thanks.
@@GridWerksGarage I had that problem twice. So my Original part gave away at 120K, replaced with "Standard motor products" PS411. Lasted less than 1 year (16K), and replaced with Original 9475037100. Both malfunctions happened in winter. I did notice that the part number of this sensor (9475037100) is a little different than the old original one (9475037000). Hope they fixed the temp' sensitivity issue.
Oil pressure warning light started to flicker at idle on my 2010 Santa Fe about a week after an oil change. Found some mention of faulty oil pressure switch from a couple of online sources, so when repair shop diagnosed this as the problem, went ahead with replacement of switch. After replacement still have the same problem. Only after they did the work did they mention that the actual problem may be something requiring a much more expensive fix (rear seals as mentioned in video?). No appreciable oil leaks before or after replacement. Is engine failure imminent or will it last as long as I don't spend a lot of time stuck in traffic at idle (oil pressure is fine at higher revs)?
I have the exact same vehicle, and the very same issue. But this is my first time problem as of yet, I hope. I wish someone had voiced their opinion or experience
@@geraldwerth6164 Finally fixed the problem of the oil pressure warning light. Got the oil changed again at one of those fast lube places and had them put in a heavier weight oil than manufacturers recommendation (5W-30 instead of 5W-20). Oil pressure light went off and hasn't come on again. It's been a year.
Hi, I have that same vehicle and this one made me the same noise as your mother's. to solve it you just have to replace the svkets of the cvvt. the 4 that uses admission and escape
No reason to remove injectors i did this on a sedona using a lot of 1/4 inch extensions and adapters and only took airbox off if you choose to do it this way use only oem sending unit and just unplug injector wiring lift the manifold with inj in it why people pull individual injectors on these videos is a mystery to me that noise is most likely because the injectors are not seated loosen brackets and work them in thats compression noise
Hey I'm currently having the same issue same exact model idk if your mom's model is a Limited but mines started going out at 159K. Oil pissing out everywhere. Would you recommend a newbie to take a spin at at it should I leave it up to an pro? If so, how much should the job be no more than? Please help bc their trying to put me in the blender and make me spend $900+
Estimado Señor buen día. Requiero de sus sólidos conocimientos en mecanica automotriz para que me de una guía que debo hacer para solventar una situación con mi camioneta HYUNDAI SANTA FE 2007 V6 AUTOMATICA. La falla en cuestión tiene que ver con la presión de aceite el cual al encender se miden entre 60/40 PSI y al llegar a la temperatura de trabajo normal baja hasta 10 PSI y enciende la luz indicadora de pesión de aceite baja. Según manual la presión debería medir 18.9 PSI a 1000 rpm a temperatura de trabajo normal. Reientemente se cambiaron las conchas de biela y bancada y se rectifico el cigueñal a .10 lo mismo que la bomba de aceite ya que presentaba la misma falla y daño los elementos anteriores. GRACIAS POR SU RESPUETA DE AYUDA.
Hey bud, I'm curious. I have the same suv and engine, I do frequent oil changes cause I've heard about the lifters oil holes being too small and getting clogged. I was wondering tho, does that engine on your Santa Fe push out some serious power? My wife's seems so fast. It will destroy my Lexus RX 330, I am thinking someone programed the ECU or something, or maybe not. Just curious if yours is pretty quick.
Autolite spark plugs,really? NGK is all I use for 40 years.Factory on most Japanese cars.Never had a failure unlike Autolite,. Champion are even better now.
Its been super cold in chicago. So I have not be working on it often. Still need to pull the entire engine out of the car. But as soon as the days are atleast 40 degrees, ill be working on it daily.
Great video, you just gained a subscriber in me! I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited AWD. I have that same noise, and am having some problems I can't quite figure out. If you find a minute, see the list below and let me know what you think! ------------------------------------------------------- Car Details Year/Make/Model: 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited AWD Mileage: 180,000 Transmission: Automatic (Current) OBDII Trouble Codes: piston 4 misfire Previous Warning Lights: -Solid & Flashing Check Engine :: only flashed once (piston misfire), solid for weeks on and off -ABS :: on/off for weeks at a time -Tire Pressure Warning :: goes away within minute of starting This is my dad's old car. No accidents or damage. ------------------------------------------------------- Issue Timeline =2 years ago-= -ABS and solid check engine lights would come on and off every now and again. =1.5 year ago= -Wouldn't start up. AAA changed my battery. Started right up. -Sometime after this ABS light was solid and stayed this way for a while. =1 year ago= -ABS and/or Check Engine light would be solid on/off randomly -Shifting between park, drive, reverse, etc began to lock up sporadically (and then permanently). Needed to use shift lock release to override it. -Car started making some noises on cold starts. -The noise wasn't too bad then. It's much louder today. See video below to hear noise -Brought to mechanic: They didn't know exactly what was wrong and warned me digging around could be expensive and they might not find anything. =Recently= -ABS light suddenly turned off a month ago and shifting worked without shift lock release override for a while. As of a few days ago it's locked back up again. -Car makes a very loud sound on cold starts lasts for ~5 seconds (video below) -Car dumps a ton of exhaust upon this first start up. It's a white/grey smoke and lasts for 30 seconds. Has a strong smell. (video below) -Upon acceleration I hear a slight vibrating sound which seems to be coming from the very front of the car. Almost sounds like my license place is shaking. But goes away eventually. -I've had trouble starting my car 3-4 times as of 3 weeks ago. I hear 1 'click' and then nothing. By the time I get AAA on the phone, and the car will decide to start. -A few week ago I was driving and all of the sudden the check engine light was flashing. Pretty severe vibration in the car even in idle. I didn't drive far. When I restarted it, the check engine was solid with no vibration in the car. This seemed to produce the piston misfire code. Drove a few days after and check engine light disappeared. -Recently I've noticed the AC has a very gasoline-y smell. Cold Start Noise & Exhaust Dump: @t
Do an oil flush then drop the oil pan and clean all the crap that dropped to the bottom and clean the oil pick up screen also replace PCV valve as its 30k miles to service and if you had oil in upper and lower intake then you also need to go in and remove them and clean all the gunk off the butterfly valves as this cause the VCM motor to fail and its almost $200 and needs dealer level scanner to calibrate and if you dont clean lower intake it will fail again .. lower intake assembly with motor is $600 and also needs calibrated .. as in tow the thing to a dealership and calibrate it without ever starting it or damage might ensue. (as in make the fuckers program it in the fucking parking lot or threaten to sue) and in closing fuck kia and these pos engines .. on a side note this engine runs like a fucking champ when nothing wrong with it .. shame its not built to last and expensive to fix .. I also invested in an ultrasonic cleaner and a fuel injector tester that can pulse run them while in cleaner .. $40 for tester and $80 for ultrasonic which will pay for itself by cleaning all the injectors in my fleet .. submerged in berrymans while running 2 cycles on 8 minutes they run flawless. price new injectors and they have to all be replaced at once and you can see cleaning is better option on a vehicle that has no fucking fuel filter.. almost all new vehicles do not have fuel filters now as they are designed to fail to drum up service and parts profits for all car makers. same goes for 7500 mile oil changes and 100K plug changes. also final note use NGK iridium plugs not motorcraft NGK is far superior and even cheaper use them in EVERYTHING except dodge ..dodge use only champion or else ..
Got your first pressure switch video saved, used it to replace my wife’s on her 2011 sorento (same motor, different name) when I talked to the dealership they told me it sounded like the main seal and to get it towed. I laughed and told them what little I did know is that it was coming from the “drain” and the guy told me their was no drain, I love playing “lost” and then throwing what I do know in their face. Anyway, about $900 is what I was told, came home found your video, spent $19.99 at Autozone with lifetime replacement and 7 hours missed from work (I milked it) cost me around $220 adding the day off of work. It also gave me the confidence to work on my 2000 Nissan Maxima again (had to replace oil pump, chain driven) so thank you.
First off both of your videos helped me when I replaced mine. I just replaced mine for the 2nd time. I think one of the reasons it went bad this time was I inadvertently overfilled the engine oil. Not by a lot but this may have caused excess pressure and caused the oil to leak through the sensor. My suggestion is to be careful and never overfill oil. Second one I replaced in less than three hours start to finish. I did not change gaskets or spark plugs.
Overfilling oil has nothing to do with oil pressure.Only lack of oil.
The initial rattle at start up is the timing chain tensioner. They build back up oil pressure and it goes away quickly. Very common problem with the 3.5.
Good to know. I have the same model and engine, it also makes that rattle. I took it to a Hyundai dealer and they couldn't identify the source of the rattle.
Hi my daughter has a 2010 Hyundai Sante Fe AWD Limited with that 3.5 engine. At 60k miles had a shop replace the oil sender. At that time he said I did need a rear main too, but he would send that out to a transmission garage. he wouldn't do it. I didn't have the rear main done, and it has continually dripped oil. He said some of the oil was from the valley he couldn't get out when he replaced it. the rest from rear main. I did take it to a Sullivan Tire and they said it was a rear main, and to another garage, and they also said rear main. the 2nd private garage said don't do it. With 90k miles not worth opening the can of worms, plus paying him $1100. Everything is rusted from Massachusetts winters. Plus it only uses a quart every 2500-3000 miles, so he said live with the driveway leaks and pour a quart in every 2 months. What are the odds it actually really is the rear main? Any chance you know of a video for a newbie, that will show me up close what to look for to diagnose the rear main leak vs the oil sender going bad again?
Startup noise is related to timing chain tensioners and a design flaw with lack of oil getting to them when cold. Have heard lots of owners recommend OEM oil filters, which I tried on my own '11 SF, but did not make a noticeable difference for the added cost ($12 aftermarket filter VS $20 OEM). 170k kms with no oil leaks or sensor issues yet. And yes, I live in Nova Scotia, Canada, notorious for cold winter weather.
exactly
Thanks for the video. It really helped me. My pressure switch failed and this really helped me do the repair myself. Took me just under 4 hours, that included a beer and a couple of short breaks. The one thing I didn't like is you have to put everything back together before you can restart your car. So you are kind of hoping everything is secure. It has been two months now and no issues. I'm not sure why mine failed- perhaps it just wore out. I'm wondering if the part could have failed because the oil level was overfilled. Garage where I get oil changes changed oil maybe two weeks before this happened, and with all the oil that leaked out my oil level was still nearly on full.
That cold start rattle could also be the cam phasers. Mine would get worse with colder weather and then subside when it got warm. Ended up getting an engine replaced (under warranty) because the timing components were shredding metal at some point.
Thanks for the video. Worked like a charm. Saved a lot of money.
Looks pretty cold there... they recalled these in Canada because the o-ring shrinks in cold weather causing the switch to fail. Cold locations in the US? Nope. Pretty lousy. Mine seems to have failed when we had a couple week long hard freeze. Thanks for the other video showing the install!
Do you have any more info on this recall, specifically a recall number I can look up? Trying to find more info, but not having any luck.
I had two failures as well. The first replacement I did was a 3rd party one from the auto parts store, it failed after two years. replaced it again with an OEM one and so far so good. If it fails again I'm going to sell this POS.
I know this is an old video, but did you ever get a resolution on the engine noise on cold start up the Hyundai 3.5? I have the same identical issue. Thanks
thank you for this update video and the original. i have a 2011 kia sorento, oil leak, will check this out from the top. kia wants $1900 for a gasket replacement around the timing cover? anyways, wish me luck. also on your original video, how did you do engine work with a white t-shirt and still looked clean at the end?!! :)
What I want to know is why this problem keeps happening? What is the root cause of the oil pressure spike? First time I had the rear main seal and PCV valve replaced, now it's the same plus the oil filter housing??? What is the deal with this engine?
What’s the reason the first one went bad, I’m about to change mine for the second time. Any recommendations on a part brand???
instead of doing the same job twice install fittings to an oil pressure gauge on top of engine,donnot put fittings that give out engine gone
Thanks for the videos
Hi all, I have a fix to prevent this happening or happening again bc this happened to me twice. Had to fix the rear main seal and pcv valve twice.
FIX: Pressure relief valve set to ~4PSI
Quick question, how do you set this to 4psi? I did a search for this and couldn't find anything.
@NigelM18 what I did was tap the oil cap for an air line, air line to air/oil separator and a pressure valve on the outlet. Now instead of the p valve I just have a muffler, direct vent to atmosphere
I am on to my 3rd Oil pressure switch on my Santa Fe. you mentioned that it was winter when you changed yours and that seems to be the contributing factor here as mine are Ok until the temp drops below maybe -20Deg C then it starts to leak again.It seems that the plastic part of the switch just cracks due to the temperature change, I really don't think they are built for the severe temps we have here in Canada, plus they don't even come with a Block heater.
Its rediculious right? Did you replace OEM every time? This last time I went with Duralast. Hopefully they have somewhat of a better unit.
Hello Mankey- I have a 2011 Kia Sorento same problem the oil pressure switch. I was told by Kia (600.00) I took it to Firestone they replaced the part ( 365.00) I drove the car today and noticed oil leaking again after the part was replaced yesterday. What could cause this? Thanks.
@@GridWerksGarage
I had that problem twice. So my Original part gave away at 120K, replaced with "Standard motor products" PS411. Lasted less than 1 year (16K), and replaced with Original 9475037100.
Both malfunctions happened in winter.
I did notice that the part number of this sensor (9475037100) is a little different than the old original one (9475037000). Hope they fixed the temp' sensitivity issue.
I think I have this same problem. Had a -20 F days in IL. -50 with windchill. All of a sudden oil is leaking. Never had problems before.
@@brinac4017
If they over-torqued it, they might of cracked the switch housing (plastic).
Why Hyundai Santa fe has 4 kind of engine 2.4L , 2.7L , 3.3L , 3.5L which engine is the best ?
My guess is timing chain tensioner and guides bad?
Great video thanks
Thanks for the great video quick question did you change the intake gaskets
tuffstuff gits did not change them either time
Oil pressure warning light started to flicker at idle on my 2010 Santa Fe about a week after an oil change. Found some mention of faulty oil pressure switch from a couple of online sources, so when repair shop diagnosed this as the problem, went ahead with replacement of switch. After replacement still have the same problem. Only after they did the work did they mention that the actual problem may be something requiring a much more expensive fix (rear seals as mentioned in video?). No appreciable oil leaks before or after replacement. Is engine failure imminent or will it last as long as I don't spend a lot of time stuck in traffic at idle (oil pressure is fine at higher revs)?
I have the exact same vehicle, and the very same issue. But this is my first time problem as of yet, I hope. I wish someone had voiced their opinion or experience
@@geraldwerth6164 Finally fixed the problem of the oil pressure warning light. Got the oil changed again at one of those fast lube places and had them put in a heavier weight oil than manufacturers recommendation (5W-30 instead of 5W-20). Oil pressure light went off and hasn't come on again. It's been a year.
Hi, I have that same vehicle and this one made me the same noise as your mother's. to solve it you just have to replace the svkets of the cvvt. the 4 that uses admission and escape
Waldemar Santos Hi I have the same noise too.,Could you tell me more details about what needs to be replaced? Thanks
No reason to remove injectors i did this on a sedona using a lot of 1/4 inch extensions and adapters and only took airbox off if you choose to do it this way use only oem sending unit and just unplug injector wiring lift the manifold with inj in it why people pull individual injectors on these videos is a mystery to me that noise is most likely because the injectors are not seated loosen brackets and work them in thats compression noise
I changed my plugs and upper and lower intake gaskets
Hey I'm currently having the same issue same exact model idk if your mom's model is a Limited but mines started going out at 159K. Oil pissing out everywhere. Would you recommend a newbie to take a spin at at it should I leave it up to an pro? If so, how much should the job be no more than? Please help bc their trying to put me in the blender and make me spend $900+
How is the seal holding up and are the lifters still loud? Is there certain oil you recommend for when I do the oil change?
Estimado Señor buen día. Requiero de sus sólidos conocimientos en mecanica automotriz para que me de una guía que debo hacer para solventar una situación con mi camioneta HYUNDAI SANTA FE 2007 V6 AUTOMATICA. La falla en cuestión tiene que ver con la presión de aceite el cual al encender se miden entre 60/40 PSI y al llegar a la temperatura de trabajo normal baja hasta 10 PSI y enciende la luz indicadora de pesión de aceite baja. Según manual la presión debería medir 18.9 PSI a 1000 rpm a temperatura de trabajo normal. Reientemente se cambiaron las conchas de biela y bancada y se rectifico el cigueñal a .10 lo mismo que la bomba de aceite ya que presentaba la misma falla y daño los elementos anteriores. GRACIAS POR SU RESPUETA DE AYUDA.
Hey bud, I'm curious. I have the same suv and engine, I do frequent oil changes cause I've heard about the lifters oil holes being too small and getting clogged. I was wondering tho, does that engine on your Santa Fe push out some serious power? My wife's seems so fast. It will destroy my Lexus RX 330, I am thinking someone programed the ECU or something, or maybe not. Just curious if yours is pretty quick.
Ours is way quicker than our GX, but the power is about the same and the GX probably weighs 1500lbs more lol so it kinda makes sense to me.
Autolite spark plugs,really? NGK is all I use for 40 years.Factory on most Japanese cars.Never had a failure unlike Autolite,. Champion are even better now.
sea foam took care of my lifter noise
I'm having the same lifter noise when it's cold. Considering sea foaming mine. Did you put it in the oil or gas to make the noise go away? Thanks
@@Crabounet I put it in through the break booster vacuum line but also use it in the oil and gas
hey man! been following your channel, hows that mazda 3 engine swap coming?
Its been super cold in chicago. So I have not be working on it often. Still need to pull the entire engine out of the car. But as soon as the days are atleast 40 degrees, ill be working on it daily.
Do you have any problem starting the engine? Can you hear any noise?
it's the timing chain guide
tank you good video
I use seafome in oil and lifters went quite
Hi Gary, how much did you use? Half a bottle of Sea Foam in the oil? I have a 2012 with lifter noise, considering using sea foam. Thanks
Did you find metal in your oil?
We're the knock sensor located on the santa Fe v6
Good job
Has anyone have a tough time plugging the plug to the oil pressure switch? 2 days and cant get it to plug in
Great video, you just gained a subscriber in me!
I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited AWD. I have that same noise, and am having some problems I can't quite figure out. If you find a minute, see the list below and let me know what you think!
-------------------------------------------------------
Car Details
Year/Make/Model: 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited AWD
Mileage: 180,000
Transmission: Automatic
(Current) OBDII Trouble Codes: piston 4 misfire
Previous Warning Lights:
-Solid & Flashing Check Engine :: only flashed once (piston misfire), solid for weeks on and off
-ABS :: on/off for weeks at a time
-Tire Pressure Warning :: goes away within minute of starting
This is my dad's old car. No accidents or damage.
-------------------------------------------------------
Issue Timeline
=2 years ago-=
-ABS and solid check engine lights would come on and off every now and again.
=1.5 year ago=
-Wouldn't start up. AAA changed my battery. Started right up.
-Sometime after this ABS light was solid and stayed this way for a while.
=1 year ago=
-ABS and/or Check Engine light would be solid on/off randomly
-Shifting between park, drive, reverse, etc began to lock up sporadically (and then permanently). Needed to use shift lock release to override it.
-Car started making some noises on cold starts.
-The noise wasn't too bad then. It's much louder today. See video below to hear noise
-Brought to mechanic: They didn't know exactly what was wrong and warned me digging around could be expensive and they might not find anything.
=Recently=
-ABS light suddenly turned off a month ago and shifting worked without shift lock release override for a while. As of a few days ago it's locked back up again.
-Car makes a very loud sound on cold starts lasts for ~5 seconds (video below)
-Car dumps a ton of exhaust upon this first start up. It's a white/grey smoke and lasts for 30 seconds. Has a strong smell. (video below)
-Upon acceleration I hear a slight vibrating sound which seems to be coming from the very front of the car. Almost sounds like my license place is shaking. But goes away eventually.
-I've had trouble starting my car 3-4 times as of 3 weeks ago. I hear 1 'click' and then nothing. By the time I get AAA on the phone, and the car will decide to start.
-A few week ago I was driving and all of the sudden the check engine light was flashing. Pretty severe vibration in the car even in idle. I didn't drive far.
When I restarted it, the check engine was solid with no vibration in the car. This seemed to produce the piston misfire code. Drove a few days after and check engine light disappeared.
-Recently I've noticed the AC has a very gasoline-y smell.
Cold Start Noise & Exhaust Dump: @t
In the process of this project and I found two little black tube spacers any idea where those might go ?
Not quite sure. If I could see a picture of it I might be able to help.
how many miles did it have when they went bad?
90K and 100K
Do an oil flush then drop the oil pan and clean all the crap that dropped to the bottom and clean the oil pick up screen also replace PCV valve as its 30k miles to service and if you had oil in upper and lower intake then you also need to go in and remove them and clean all the gunk off the butterfly valves as this cause the VCM motor to fail and its almost $200 and needs dealer level scanner to calibrate and if you dont clean lower intake it will fail again .. lower intake assembly with motor is $600 and also needs calibrated .. as in tow the thing to a dealership and calibrate it without ever starting it or damage might ensue. (as in make the fuckers program it in the fucking parking lot or threaten to sue) and in closing fuck kia and these pos engines .. on a side note this engine runs like a fucking champ when nothing wrong with it .. shame its not built to last and expensive to fix .. I also invested in an ultrasonic cleaner and a fuel injector tester that can pulse run them while in cleaner .. $40 for tester and $80 for ultrasonic which will pay for itself by cleaning all the injectors in my fleet .. submerged in berrymans while running 2 cycles on 8 minutes they run flawless. price new injectors and they have to all be replaced at once and you can see cleaning is better option on a vehicle that has no fucking fuel filter.. almost all new vehicles do not have fuel filters now as they are designed to fail to drum up service and parts profits for all car makers. same goes for 7500 mile oil changes and 100K plug changes. also final note use NGK iridium plugs not motorcraft NGK is far superior and even cheaper use them in EVERYTHING except dodge ..dodge use only champion or else ..
lol i stopped at auto lite plugs.