Kia and Hyundai 3.5 oil leak diagnosis and repair
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2024
- Before starting this repair please note: DO NOT over tighten the sensor. Over tightening the sensor will lead to cracking the housing.
Today I talk about a common oil leak on Kias and Hyundais with the 3.5 liter v6. This Leak can be hard to find and is commonly misdiagnosed as a rear main seal. I go over how to find the leak source and perform a step by step guide to repairing the leak.
Thank you for watching! Please like and subscribe. Feel free to ask any questions in the comments section. I try my best to respond to every one of them.
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DO NOT over tighten the sensor. The threads are a tapered pipe thread and over tightening will lead to damage of the housing the sensor is threaded into.
Seen to late broke housing😢
Anybody ever replaced the piece the oil pressure switch screws into?
Part# 21160-3C700
I have one that has been fixed with JB weld. Not sure how that piece comes off.
@@samroberts7165I'm currently doing that. The housing is called the "Oil Cover". You have to drain the coolant, remove the coolant assembly, on the driver's side of the engine, remove the the center coolant pipe and then you'll have access to it. You'll need to replace the oil cover gasket, the two o rings on the center pipe, and the gaskets on the coolant assembly. I recommend adding a little RTV to the oil cover gasket, the seal it better. I torqued everything to spec and still had it leaking a tiny bit of oil. Have been doing this job since Monday afternoon. It is currently Thursday morning. I just want it done.
Man, like an open heart surgery to remove a blood clot. Seriously though, you are a top notch mechanic. Much respect.
Some of these jobs are very tedious for such a minor issue.
Excellent work thanks.
Thank you very much, Kia Sorento v6, 3.5. dealership found a oil leak, quoted me a rear main seal, valve cover, oil pan gasket and timing belt cover. $1700 but couldn’t tell me specifically which gasket was the fail point. A little Google and CZcams tells me it’s a few gaskets and once sensor. Save me a Ton of money and anxiety.
Just finished this sensor replacement, your video was perfect, you saved me a lot of grief, appreciate your time, Thank You
Awesome! Glad I could help!
keep the good work my friend. you are the first young mechanic that actually knows his gig. all explained to perfection.
Thank you Esteban!
Spent the last few days between a few shops trying to figure out where my major oil leak in this exact area was coming from so thanks for putting this video up tremendous help!
Awesome! Glad I could help.
All the symptoms you've mentioned in this video are right there in my 2008 hyundai sonata v6. You saved me from replacing the rear main seal coz I thought it was shot. Thanks a million to you sir.
Thanks for watching! Hopefully this helps you.
Thank you! This video has not only educated me for the future but finally got me to stop chasing my tail around in circles trying to find this crazy oil leak that appears to be a rear main seal. Thanks again for saving me!
Glad I could help!
All I can say is wow! You have got to be one of the most thorough mechanics I’ve seen on CZcams. I just liked the video and subscribed. Keep up the most excellent work! And thank you so much for making this video! I have a 2011 Kia Sorrento SX that needs a pressure switch and I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but I’m not certified. This is a huge help and saves hundreds.
Well done! Miss having your shop around, always honest and trustworthy. Peace!
I'm hopeful this is what's wrong with the santa fe.. taking it for a 2nd opinion Monday here's hopping... Thxs
I’m really happy this popped up in my google search! The leak definitely looked like a rear main to me, and it started at a few drops and went to a whole lot in less than a week. Thanks for the video!
I should amend my comment. My leak had all the symptoms of this one, and was even leaking from exactly the same location, but mine turned out to be a head gasket. I stopped counting after 4 stripped head boot threads in the block. Threaded inserts are holding strong so far!
Your video was instrumental in getting my '11 Sedona back on the road. Many, many thanks!
Glad it helped! Thank you Arthur.
Thank you very much, I just got quoted for the same issue by a shop 1200 $ to replace transmission / engine seal and watching your video make so much sense , thanks a lot again. I will buy the sensor and replace it myself.
Nice job now I know to take this to my mechanic. There was a time when I would tackle the job but those days are gone. Thank you.
Glad to help
One of the best examples of a how-to video I've seen. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you.
Great video. Was going to take our Santa Fe to a mechanic, but after watching your video, I am confident that I can change the sensor myself. Saved me a bunch of money. Thank-you, and keep up the good work.
Did you get the sensor changed?
@@InTheShop Yes, I did, and it all went smoothly. Had to grind a big notch in my 15/16' wrench to get enough movement to go to the next position.
Great video, I've had to do this twice on our 2012 santa fe, the first time it happened I thought for sure we had a major engine failure. The first time I replaced the oil pressure sensor I used an OEM part from the dealer and it failed about 12 months after it was replaced and leaked oil again. The second time I purchased one from the local autoparts store and it's been holding for 2+ years.
I've had luck sneaking a deep socket in under the coolant crossover tube with a long wobble extension to get the old sensor out. Saves a lot of time messing with box wrenches. Also, I would recommend anyone looking to diagnose this to invest in one of those small USB inspection cameras or boroscopes from amazon. Mine cost me $25 and has saved my butt more than once looking at hard to reach places like under the plenum (it's how I discovered my original sensor was leaking).
Thanks for watching! I wish the OEM would update the part but they just keep making the same faulty sensor.
My 2012 Sedona's failed 700 miles from home. I limped it back at 55 most of the way, adding 2 quarts of oil every 20 miles. That was a LONG, EXPENSIVE drive home. Thanks for posting this - the fix looks time-consuming but very do-able.
Excellent job. I wasted some money to those people to replace the gasket... still didn't get the problem fixed. Finally, I followed your video step by step to fix it myself. Thanks very much!!!
Thank you for this awesome video. I have a 2011 Kia Sorento with 79K but the 2.4L (4 cylinder) . It just started to leak some oil. Kia dealership said the timing belt cover/casket needs to be replaced for $1900, but at the same time, they seem like they didn't want the work. I thanked them and left. So, I will look at the top of the engine as you described. Again, thank you. Take care.
Your engine is not V-shaped, it's an inline 4 cylinder. Your oil pressure sensor is at a completely different location.
Just had this happen this week on my 2011 Sedona. Wouldn’t have been able to do it without your video. Thank you very much . Shop wanted 800$
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
We just purchased a 2015 Kia with an oil leak. Taking it back to the dealership tomorrow, but I assume they are not going to fix the issue. After watching this video I am certain that the oil leak is caused by the oil sensor just like the video. Thank you so much for such a detailed video. If I have to perform the repair this video is going to come in very handy. Thank you so much "In the shop".
One of the most thorough repair videos I have ever seen. Thank You for taking the time to make it. Even for the non-mechanic, it illustrates the complexity of engines and why repairs cost what they do.
Thank you! Comments like this mean the world to me.
Where is your shop located
Ty Cox I closed my shop a year ago to spend more time with my family. I make these videos out of my garage at home.
So I'm here because I'm shopping for a used SUV. Looked at 3 vehicles today with this engine, 2 Santa Fe's and 1 Sorento. ALL THREE of them had this leak! The oil was dripping off of the end of the transmission bellhousing, and to my uninformed eyes, it sure looked like a rear main seal to me. Now I know better. Great video...thanks!
Thanks for watching. Glad I could help!
I'm sure glad I watched the whole video. Quite a few things I wouldn't have expected, like coolant from the throttle body leaking and how tedious removing the oil pressure sensor will be. Good job thanks for the video!
Glad you enjoyed it! Hopefully it helped you.
I want tom thank you so much for all then insight on replacing the oil pressure switch. I also thought it was a main seal until I found your video..Your insight was spot on and your video was clear and easy to follow along..Thanks again
Thanks for posting this... i had to perform this change-out yesterday. It took a while - I took my time - but your step-by-step was a huge help! I couldnt get a 24mm box wrench to work the way you did but I was able to fish a 24mm ratchet into the valley and get it out that way. Got it done... hope I never have to do it again!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Comments like this are why I do this.
Couldn't believe my luck when I found this video. My 2010 Santa Fe 3.5 with 326,000km threw the oil light on my way home from work. Pulled over and checked under the front end. Oil was running out the bottom of engine where it joins the tranny. Was sure it was the crank seal. That was until i saw this video and confirmed it was the oil sensor. Yippee !!! Still a tough repair but far easier than fixing a rear crank seal. Thanks a bunch! This was an easy-ish DIY fix with $150 in parts verses a full engine pull and likely well over $1000 in labour if it was a crank seal failure. Book hours for the sensor is 3 hrs crank seal 11 hrs
3 things I found helpful from my experience. Box end wrench on the sensor also did not work for me. The wrench body was too wide to get any swing. I used a socket which I slide in under the fuel rail. You could also grind out a section of the box end wrench where it interferes with the head to allow for more swing. Secondly the 6mm allen bolts to detach the lower plenum are quite deep. You'll need at least a 3" long key head to get down between the fuel rail and the ports to get to the bolts ( you can also loosen the fuel rails to get an extra millimeter or two of clearance if you have a shorter wrench and need to get the wrench head down farther). I also had to cut the sensor wire from the remoter starter to allow the upper plenum to e moved out of the way.
Great job troubleshooting and not just throwing parts at the problem. Nice that you mention the bolt sizes.
Thank you Augie!
@@InTheShop Great video I have the same car with variable valve timing solenoid exhaust Left i believe leaking oil but i can not find it. can you help please
The video made the job go flawless. Thank you!!
Awesome! Glad I could help!
I followed your video, replacing oil sensor on my 2013...you saved me so much money..THANK YOU...YOUR AN AWESOME MECHANIC
Great video and advise...also during this repair it would be a good time to replace your spark plugs and also replace your valve cover gaskets if you see oil seepage around where the valve covers seal to the cylinder heads...its a good time to do these when the plenums are off during this repair.
I think it'll be a perfect time to do a full service
58k on our 2019 Sedona and noticed a stream of oil under the vehicle at startup - after topping off with a full quart of oil. Thank you for this video my friend!
Great video thought my block was cracked and found this video and had it fixed in no time!
Thank you for your in depth coverage here. I own a 2017 Santa Fe that has an oil leak. Not much is leaking but, it's enough to look into getting it repaired. I took it to my local mechanic who generally has done good work for me on multiple vehicles over the years. They definitely misdiagnosed my leak as the main rear seal. $900 later, I still have a leak! Taking it back tomorrow armed with information from your video.
Nice video! I just wish I seen it before I pulled the trans! Lol
Thank you!!
Nice video! The fact that you have to disassemble the entire engine to get to a part that will most certainly fail on 90% of vehicles seems almost criminal by Kia!
I used this today on my 2012 Sedona. Took me 11 hours and three trips to the hardware store, but I got it done. You did an excellent job explaining it, you have a great presence, and know your stuff. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Wait, a Sedona? Presume that's w/ the 3.8 engine. Same issue on that engine? -- that this guidance also applies to my 2009 Sedona? Common explanation for oil drizzling (slowly) down across belt side of my engine (and ruining the alternator - after several months) is leaking valve cover gaskets. I changed the front one, but leaking continued. (and ruined a second alternator) Was about to change the rear VCGasket... (may do that yet) But this is the first video I've come across confidently telling me the problem is with the oil pressure sensor (!).... (and min 2:30 shows how....) Yet what an long, long job (anything but an "easy fix) to get down to it!... Any further tips/thoughts from your Sedona experience?
I see the 2012 Sedona had the 3.5l engine. (unlike the 2009 with the 3.8l)... Still wondering if I've got the same issue? Not convinced. Yes, have the wetness behind the belts, but not having same "typical symptom" mentioned of oil "pouring out between engine and the transmission." But what else could be causing the wetness behind the belts....?
Did you have a leak ? Or was just a preventative maintenance. I have the same model Sedona as well.
@@dinscool85 The pressure sending unit cracked (the plastic portion) and oil was pouring out. I got about 15 miles to the gallon of oil. It was pretty expensive driving from Charlotte NC to Central Illinois.
@@AndyDeMontana crazy.. at what miles did that happen? Mine currently has 136k miles on it..
Amazing video, this helped me diagnose the problem and I'm confident now that I can do the repair my self. Also thank you for showing the sensor up close to the camera, some of these smaller parts are so hard to match for sure without things like that.
Thank you for a great video !!! I had to have this repair done 2x’s on my 2013 Sorento. Each time it was almost $800 😬😬😬 and it looks like it’s failing again with 203k on the motor. This sensor is a crappy design and made to fail. With the help from this video I believe I can attempt this myself, thanks again you may have just saved me $800 !!!
Glad I could help!
Thank you for the video and just keep the honest videos coming.
Thank you!
Thank you so much. I just finished repairing my 2012 Sorento oil sensor leak. Being able to walk through this in advance and know what sizes of socket I needed was worth a lot to me.
Not sure what kind of idiot would gives this video a thumbs down, but thanks for making it. Seriously. Just did the job today in the driveway, can't imagine how much time or even money you saved my ass. If you're ever in West Michigan, beers on me friend.
Haha Thank you! I'm glad I was able to help.
Excellent video. Awesome instruction. I may have to be doing this for my friend's wifes car. Your instruction makes this possible to do!
This video was a lifesaver for me. Thank you so very much!
Great video. Described my exact issue and the procedure was bang on. Thanks👍
My 2015 Santa Fe exhibiting same problem. 😮 Taking it to Hyundai dealer tomorrow for repair and prepared to pay big $$$$. 😢 Wish you were close to help me!! You did an awesome job! Kudos!
Just wanted to thank you so much for your detailed video on replacing this sensor. You can tell with your presentation you know your stuff. Much appreciated and I have subscribed to your channel.
Thank you! Glad I could help.
@@InTheShop I had taken it by two shops and they both had me quoted on replacing the main seal , one of them at the cost of $2800. Thankfully, I boyfriend decided to investigate and came across your video and you proved him right!
very helpful, was thinking rear main, but i see its from the buried oil sensor.
This video was very helpful. Replaced my oil sensor and PVC valve in a few hours of time. Sadly, the oil sensor isn't the source of my oil leaking, so back to the drawing board.
This is a very good video. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
No problem! Glad you liked it.
Thanks l did a oil sensor replaced it you video was great
You’re a good technician
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Very good video. I had no luck using a wrench to loosen the sensor. I found that using a non-impact 3/8" drive 15/16" deep well socket was much easier. It is a bit shorter than its 1/2" drive counterpart, and that little difference in length gave me just enough room to get the socket on the sensor in that cramped little space. I also recommend that if you use shop towels to cover the intake so that nothing falls in that you make sure to remove them before reassembly. Don't ask me how I know.
What to say great video too have the same problem video made the job easy and save a guy money. Great work. I’ve been doing auto glass for 18 years now need to make videos to help people thanks again
Awesome video! Thank you for saving me a tow money and shop costs!
Almost took mine to the shop assuming it was rear main, thanks.
No problem! Hopefully this takes care of it for you.
Don't forget to change the spark plugs when you have everything off, because it's almost the same procedure. They designed this engine to never get fixed so highly technical (they could have placed the oil sensor anywhere but.. ) same deal with the alternator have to take half the engine apart.
Amazing. Doing this tomorrow and using this guide, fantastic detail!
Thank you for posting, even though I was working with the 3.8 L lambda (2011 Veracruz Limited) oil cooler removal and knock sensors replacement. It helped me avoid a potentially huge 🔥 issue with the gas rails. Went and rewatched multiple times!
Love the video. Good job.
Thank you!
Excellent video quality. I am working through changing the oil filter housing on a 12 sorento. I wasnt able to find any video that went past the oil sensor. Would have really enjoyed a video like this that went through that
Thank you!
@@InTheShop absolutely. This video helped me figure it all out 🤙
Excellent diagnostics and explanation. This *may* be a potential issue on the 3.3T engines as well. More owners (G70/Stinger) are seeing a slight oil seep between the engine and trans.
Thank you!
My cadenza has a 3.3.3l had to remove the injector.. they're under the lower plenum on mine
Amazing video! I love how you show each and every bolt, hose and wire connector!
I have had a slow leak in my 2011 Kia Sorento with the same engine for at least 3 years. One shop said it was the water pump seal. Your description of the leak sounds spot on though. Going to look tomorrow and try to see that valley.
Do you think the sensor would leak this slow for that long though? Or is this usually an all or nothing failure? It's starting to slowly get worse.
Keep up the great work!
Thank you! the sensor could start off as a small leak and progressively get worse.
Just an FYI for anyone with this issue. First, there is a bulletin on it from KIA. This may be covered by warranty even if outside it otherwise. Second, my sons Sedona just had this problem, and the oil did NOT leak to the back area of the valley and onto the rear main area. On his engine, the oil from the switch got pushed into the wiring insulation (in with the copper wire), the path went out to the right front (left looking at it from the front of car) to a group of solenoids mounted on the engine above the valve cover. Some of the oil also dripped onto the serpentine belt and got thrown around a bit. The dealer fixed it under warranty and also replaced some wiring since we complained. Don’t know if they got it all though, but it’s documented for later. The oil light would also sporadically illuminate.
Ty, very thorough. Helped me alot, I'm no mechanic but now I feel like one 😅😂👌👌
Awesome! Thank you!
Wow... Shout out 2u very focused, patient and thorough Hyundai needs mechanics like you it's funny my 2018 is burning oil and my close mechanic friends all say the same pvc valve probably failing but after watching your video I'm definitely considering trading my truck in ASAP because when I took to the dealership I got the vibe nightmare look on the mechanics face so definitely grateful for your video... Where are you located... Nevermind God bless and may you continue to give great knowledge and service ✌🏿👍💯
I'm from Iraq 🇮🇶.. Thank you for this video.
Thanks for watching!
thank you for the videos very helpfull
Thank you for watching!
Thank you so much you saved my life know i see what was leaking this whole time
I had this leak fixed at my neighborhood mechanic shop for 420 dollars...it was worth every penny letting someone else do it.
Really? My mechanic just quoted me $450 including oil change. What model is your car?
Best video i seen on this yet.
Thanks for your help and support. I have a 2007 kia sedona oil leak and I'm not sure where it's coming from. The shop I had look at it didn't seem to know either. From the Bottom of the Sedona I can see the leak on the passenger side which looks like it's also coming from the oil pan. Do you have any suggestions?
Great video !!
This helped do the job the whole way. Méthanier again sir !!
Awesome, you explained loud and clear. Thanks
Thanks for the info. Well done!
Thanks for the video. i would have a question how much torque pound i need to reassemble the parts.
Thanks for watching Joel. Torque should be 120 inch lbs
Thanks for the great video! I am tackling this job tomorrow on my wife's Santa Fe. It would be nice if you did have the fastener torque specs. I bought aftermarket parts from RockAuto and Amazon that I am hoping will work out well. Cost was about $50 compared to $200+ that Hyundai wanted. Total shop cost with labor for doing this job at a central MN Hyundai dealer was quoted ~$650.
How did you make out?
Came out great! Bought a set of extended metric allen wrench sockets at Home Depot for about $22 to better clear the fuel rails. Used my torque wrench to do a "reverse calculation" of the torque specs that I felt comfortable with (I prefer to remove any chances of somehow breaking off a bolt!). Had to used two different brands of open end wrenches that I had to loosen the sensor -- flipping one wrench back and forth didn't work. Probably made about 100 mini-stroke turns with alternating wrenches to get it out -- this is a tight spot with very little clearance. T!hanks again for a great video!
Man your one Great mechanic dude. 👍
Very detailed video, any chance you can do one on replacing the oil filter housing. That one is also very common leak that is simular to the oil pressure sensor leak on the 2011 Kia Sorento 3.5. Thank you
Thanks Joe. If I get one in for that I absolutely will.
Yeah mine was bleeding from that housing. It's a bear to get to the bolts. Seems that 3.3 and 3.5 share the same oil/cooling housings.
This works also for the 2011-14 Sedona vans also. If you are doing spark plugs you basically do this until you get the upper plenum off but not the lower one.
100% Thank you for watching!
Is it the same for the 2019 Sedonas too?
@@ericjones363 Those years (3rd gen) use the Lambda Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) 3.3-liter V6 which is a different engine that in this video, but the oil pressure sensor is in a similar location. czcams.com/video/-C3MqHg76Sg/video.html
Thanks for taking the time to make the videos that you make.
Thanks, that was helpful.
You're welcome!
You are a very good and thorough mechanic (hope you don't mind the old-fashioned label - my dad was one). My experience - Had my oil pressure switch replaced because my 2011 Santa Fe started to have a flickering oil pressure warning light (only at idle) a week after an oil change. After a high-labour-charge bill to do this the oil pressure light still flickers at idle. The repair shop told me (without getting specific) that the only other possible cause involved taking the engine apart. Assume it is the rear main seal as you and some other online sources mention. Note: the engine hasn't been leaking oil as far as I have seen. Oil level was full before the recent previous change. Any chance that I can drive this vehicle awhile longer and avoid a catastrophic failure, as long as I don't get stuck at idle in stop-and-go traffic often?
Some times new parts are bad. This happened to me. I replaced it with another new part and it was good 👍
Hey In the Shop, I have a 2015 Sonata Turbo and just developed a heavy oil leak coming from the back of the engine. What could be causing the problem?
Great video and commentary!
Mine is pooling middle of the transmission but the leak appears to be coming from the piece that is attached to the side of the oil filter. I only see spots on the ground. I am going to wash down the current oil and hope my leak is from that gasket since I don't have a garage and it is a bit wintery here. I've replaced head gaskets in the cold. Rolled a transmission out with snow up to the door of the car on ramps, but I am tired of doing repairs in the cold.
Hi....Good video...could you show how to unclip the various hyundai electrical connectors...the ones with the blue plastic ...grey in color.....thanks, hard to figure out...2011 hyundai v6 3.5 liter
Amazing!
Have a 2008,sonata, that after figuring out it was the sensor, replaced it. Though it is not buried as deep as the one in the video. But after the replacement notice that even more was coming out and realized that the peice it bolts in was cracked. Cannot seem to find any info on this or what the part is really called. Contacted local dealership about getting it replaced, been a week and they still ahve not got back with me. Any help or ideas would be great.
Awesome, thanks
Thank you, this was great information
I have an 03 Kia Sorento and I'm wondering what would be causing it to be leaking more than a quart of oil as fast as you can put the oil in on the front of the motor it comes down over the water pump and down the motor that looks like a giant really big stream of oil, if you could help me that would be great.
What spark plugs would you use while on there? So many choices out there. Which ones are best?
I typically recommend NGK plugs for imported vehicles. I have had the best luck with them.
Great job, same problem with 2012 santa fe .. do you have the torque specifications
Thank you! I don’t have the torque specs. On plastic plenums I usually just hand tighten them.
I have this issue but it's a 2012 kia sorrento with a 4 cylinder, is this also a common issue with the 4 banger ? It appears to come from the rear of the engine in the drivers side
Thank you so much, I am going to give it a go! Wish me luck..
This is a great video! I'm looking at buying a used Santa Fe from this era (or the earlier ones with the 3.3L) and I'm wondering... since this is so common, have you seen it happen again on the same vehicle after fixing one? I saw one person left a comment on here about 8 months ago saying they replaced this part once at 85k and again at 111k. I'm not sure if I should steer clear of these engines if the replacement sensors still have this defect. I have also read some reports of total failures of these engines... like, suddenly exploding. Do you think if this leak went undetected and suddenly caused the car to dump all that oil while it was on the highway, would that be enough to cause this kind of failure?
Finally, do you have any hands on experience with the previous Hyundai 3.3L (2006-2010 Sonata, 2007-2009 Santa Fe) and 3.8L (2006-2011 Azera, 2008-2012 Veracruz) engines? I know they frequently have a front valve cover leak that can ruin the alternator, but I'm curious if they have any other issues like the one in this video.
I'm not a mechanic at all, just curious about your opinion. Hard to find cars as nice as these for a decent price these days. If the engine problems can be permanently fixed with the help of a youtube video, that makes them a tremendous value. Thank you!
Its very possible if this leak could ultimately cause an engine failure. As far as I know the older versions don't have this particular issue. Thank you so much for taking the time to watch!
Question, saw another video that removed that center water pipe that you suggest working around with the wrench. So I was trying to do that to get better access for both switch/sensor replacement and cleaning in the valley. So I loosened the water temperature control assembly (WTCA) to remove the center pipe as the other video showed, but it is being a real bear. Do you know if the center pipe is held in to the WTCA just through friction with an o-ring and the same on the end opposite (where the sensor / switch is) ? For some context, at this point I have drained coolant so that is not longer a deterrent to this method of removing the center pipe. Also. seems quite a puddle in the valley making me thing the weep hole might be clogged, giving another reason to get in there and do a good job. Thank you for any input. ... ... More info to hopefully prevent back and forth. I have remove the 6 fasteners from the WTCA (4 nuts on block-mounted studs, 2 bolts). Also, I removed some but not all hoses, not yet anyway as it does not seem like they are preventing the motion I am trying to get. The WTCA wiggles plenty, seems free and none of the wires or hoses seem to be the inhibitors of moving enough to get center pipe out. Also, I have tried both with removing the 1 bolt for the center pipe tab removed and installed. Tried the installed thinking maybe it hold the pipe would allow me to wiggle the pipe out since less play was allowed. Thank you again. ...
Follow-up, I got great advice from a friend to use grease to loosen up and remove the pipe and worked perfectly. This allowed me to remove the pipe and get full access to switch for removal and clean up of valley. This is a great video though, not many out there for this job but in my case the access that appears available when wrenching the switch is not the same for mine which is why I needed to remove the pipe. A ground down wrench might have worked, but cleaning was much easier with pipe removed not to mention the range of motion is very limited and I needed to use a 6-pt wrench due to the rounded corners of switch. A 12-pt on the small side might have worked, but think not with the 25-32 ft-lb torque spec.
Great video. Mine has the oil light coming on at idle. Plus the leak. I'm assuming both symptoms would be the switch?
Thanks Ryan! Yup the light on and the oil leak are both related.
Hi I hope you answer me, I’m having this issue with the same car but my situation is leaking oil but mixing coolant and oil in the radiator and the car after 10 to 15 minutes driving or turn car on is over heating you think is this issue or the head gaskets bad ?