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2005-2015 Nissan Frontier Front & Rear Brake Pad & Rotor
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- čas přidán 29. 12. 2017
- 2005-2015 Nissan Frontier 2-Wheel Drive
Front Brake Pads w/ Hardware: amzn.to/2CzwPvQ
Front Brake Rotors: amzn.to/2COx3ml
Rear Brake Pads w/ Hardware: amzn.to/2CzxmxQ
Rear Brake Rotors: amzn.to/2CwsKbL
Single Piston Caliper Tool: amzn.to/2JF0ytA
Dual Piston Caliper Tool :amzn.to/2HkQWCW
Thank you for showing us how to do the work and not giving us some long story or lecture. I'm glad you didn't edit out the part when you forgot to put the clips back on the front caliper. I'm that guy that always forgets something, so it makes for a good reminder.
Do you need those little pins when doing this?
Yes,clips must be put back where you took them off!!! Not being rude,but that should be obvious, me at go back together the way it came apart
@@kylekovach2063 what pins?? The thin metal brake clips ,yes!!! Or the the Caliper sliding pins.....most definitely!
Thanks for the video . i need to work on 06 frontier this week.
And very glad and appreciate your time for showing us. How to do the right thing.
GOD bless you
grease pins and slot for pads?
Awesome video my man! Very detailed and with opened view. Thank you. Very helpful.
Agreed thanks so much
Holy smokes u should of replace the metal shims on the bracket.they were super rusted. Anti seize on back of rotors, and caliber lube too.
TheMadShredder what type of lube? 50 caliber lube? 😂
Enjoyed the video. The comments are pretty good too. Lube and some anti-seize in the right places would be a plus. Not overflowing the brake fluid in master cylinder is very important because that's a bad gift that keeps on giving. Replacing the little shims the pads ride in is a good idea but not all brake pad kits come with them and good luck finding them once you have everything apart. If you need to know socket sizes and torque specs from a youtube video you shouldn't be doing this job yourself. Thanks for posting the video. Serves the purpose of giving me an idea of whether I want to tackle this job myself or not.
Well your info is helpful, but knowing torque and socket sizes does help to get our job done faster. I do my own and not all that often, so I dont remb the torque or socket size. Guess I will write it down somewhere. Thanks
Patty
@@patriciamartin9229he's an idiot
No anti seize on the Caliper slide bolts or the actual Caliper bolts or they can loosen!!! Do not use anti seize for threads on brake jobs! That's for sparks ,o2 sensors and some other things
@@patriciamartin9229 torque is semi important, socket size is not,just have a whole set and find the one that fits
I think we'd end up disagreeing on the anti-seize question. Searching for references one way or the other would be an interesting exercise. I've never had an issue with using it.
good video quality. could have explained bolt sizes. Also would have been a good idea to have lubed caliper slide pins while doing this. also no grease on the ears of the pads?
The slide pins were not serviced ( Big Mistake ) Bore and pins should have been examined for wear. Bore and pins should have been cleaned and lubricated. Bellows should have been replaced. Correct lubricant for all parts should have been used. Stainless steal break pad clips should have been replaced or cleaned and then lubricated with correct lubricant.
Cleanliness is very important. De-rusting of parts is important. Rusty parts should be cleaned or replaced with new parts. The master cylinder should be be drained of old fluid before the start of this repair. After depression of the caliper piston, the master cylinder should be drained again of old fluid and replaced with new fluid. Lubricant should be applied to the mechanical surfaces that come in contact with the back of the new disc pads.
All mounting bolts should be cleaned and properly lubricated to help with future repair dis-assembly.
As many replacement parts are available for this type of break service, should be replaced and properly lubricated.
What was the reasoning for moving around the spinning thing for the rear parking brake before putting in the rotor ? And is it neccasarry?
If you don't open the valves you'll damage the diaphragm in the master cylinder,which keeps fluid trapped in that line!!! And you force it the wrong way ,I've done breaks like this several times only to end up with failing break pressure days later from leaking break fluid from the master cylinder, in large vehicles,and can leak inside the diaphragm and not outside for a while where your breaks are constantly locking up ......open the valves,then compress the calipers,then bleed the brakes when done!!! Only safe and correct and cheapest option to it right!!!
Valve? Do you mean take the top off the brake fluid reservoir?
@@luigidabbicco8445 no, you must open the bleed valve on the Caliper before you compress the Caliper
@@luigidabbicco8445 gonna be a small wrench or socket to open the bleed valve on the Caliper
I’ve opened cap to rez never valve and had no problems. But you could be right
Really great video! Today I'll order the parts from your links. I hope you will get your commission on that. Question I have is I see you adjusting the shoes on the rear combo rotor to be snug. Is the emergency handle fully engaged? Seems it would need to not be in order to get the rotor off. And if it is engaged it seems the handle would be really hard to pull when the shoe is so snug to begin with.
No greasing pad and pins?
Not sure If I missed it, but what size Sockets do I need for this Job?
Thanks for sharing 👊
As an industrial mechanic who barely beat stage 4 cancer, DON'T SPRAY BRAKE CLEAN OR ANY PETROLEUM DISTILLATE ON YOUR BARE SKIN!!!
tell me your story? I’m worried about automotive chemicals safety is number one priority, some techican would always tell me that imm gonna die in the automotive industry because of the chemicals, are mechanics at high risk of getting cancer?
I saw that part and said’, “WHERE THE HELL ARE HIS GLOVES”
Are the 4wd ft rotors also outboard style? Meaning "The bearings do not need removed to remove the rotor"?
very good video, just the facts
Thanks!
definitely should have anti seized the mating surface, cleaned the mounting bracket, installed new shims and lubed the ears and back of the pads. As well as the slide pins. But carry on 😐
Can anyone conform is this car uses the same brake pads as the nissan atlas/cabstar truck
I’m assuming this would apply for the 2017 frontier right?
Do you grease the pins?
Thanks for telling us what size the bolts were🙄
wow first time ive seen a rotor disk and drumbreak all in one!! wow
coco bigbear the drum brake is the emergency break.
@@dontderockmeriz4546 Thanks, I was thinking that was the case. For me that is the best part of this video bc when I get going I would have been really confused by that.
Excellent video! I have just purchased a 2010 Fronty so this will come in very handy, Thank-you
awesome thanks for watching!!
What the name of those scissors clamp you use to compress the piston
I'd like to know where you can buy that scissor style caliper piston tool.
Here is a link to Amazon for the single piston one we use: amzn.to/2JF0ytA, Also for the double piston calipers :amzn.to/2HkQWCW
Sorry if naive but does the base model rwd have front and rear brakes ?
Yes
Good vid,no lame music,,nice,thanks for the fyi..
Great video thanks.
Thanks for the video. I was able to do my rear pads and rotors on my 2015 Xterra.
Really appreciate this no bs video. Great job!
How often do you change the drum pads?
I keep having this problem with my 2015 nissan frontier (not driving enough) getting ready to replace for the 2nd time, makes my brain want to explode! Can I buy a better quality parts that will help alleviate this problem in the future?
Good video but what about opening the bleeder valve when you push the piston back rather than push fluid back toward your master cylinder?
No need to open the bleeder valve instead open the master cylinder cover when you push back the piston to avoid air in the system.
Check the master cylinder fluid level as you progress thru each wheel and remove any excess fluid so as not to overflow the master cylinder.
This is a TERRIBLE video!
Problems:
- No addressing of brake fluid overflow from master cylinder when compressing pistons
- No bolt sizes mentioned (14 and 19mm)
- No torques mentioned ( about 23 and 130 ft-lbs)
- Calipers balanced on frame members, risking brake hose damage if knocked off
- No anti-seize or brake grease used anywhere
- No re-work of caliper slides on rusted brake system
- No addressing of emergency brake shoes
- No use of torque wrench to tighten bolts
A damn sloppy job.
Agreed on all points, should have done a parts/tools used overview at the beginning and mentioned them along the way. Camera angle was good however.
whiteknightcat would also be nice to do a quick overview of basic burnishing afterwards and that smoke is not uncommon
whiteknightcat geez sorry, you know we try to make the videos not super long and if you really need that then we apologize. Also you know this is why professional shops do not add or top off brake fluid.
This is however an accurate representation of how a mechanic would do it at a brake shop etc. They skip the small things because time is money. It’s a perfect example of why it’s better to do all the maintenance yourself, if you can.
Thanks again very helpfull
I put antiseize after using wire brush
You're much better at making videos than doing brake work.
If you are doing a good brake job why not change out all the parts like the drum pads even tho they are only emergency pads and what is up with placing a worn pad
pared with a new one on the rear brakes also your calibers are only good for 30,000 I was told.
Hey this is a great video btw, I have a 2015 frontier and the front brake pads still have lots of life on them but my rotors seem to be showing some heat marks and lines, could I just resurface the rotors and clean everything up and be okay or should I replace them?
wissam khoury as long as your brake rotors are not warped causing a pulsation, and the brakes are still preforming well and like when new, then no problem, resurfacing the rotors can actually have a negative affect. Once the rotor is machines, less metal exists to dissipate the heat that the rotor absorbs, this typically causes the now resurfaced rotor to over heat quicker and potentially warp. As long as no problems, then leave it be, next would be to replace the rotors and if it were me I would also install new pads at the same time, pads and rotors doe wear together. I stopped machining rotors about 20 years ago unless it is an old vehicle with big heavy rotors.
I wouldn’t let you do my brakes. No lube on pins shims
Thank you for the video.
Why do you not mention WHAT SIZE THE BOLTS ARE,,,GHEEZ
That's easy to figure out in about 3 seconds. A lot more important things to worry about with this video.
Is the star (spreader) on the back to adjust the emergency brake?
True North Muskoka yes but it depends on the vehicle and which star wheel you may be looking at, regular drum brakes also have a star wheel to adjust the regular drum brakes if equipped, if you have this model and the star wheel is inside the rotor, then that is the star wheel for the parking brake
Ok I will admit that you guys make it look ready but when we try it.... Yeah 🙃⚽🙃⚽⚽
Why did you speed it up? I had to slow it down to .5 speed.
Thx so much that help me a lot .
Whats the torque spec on caliper mount?
Perfect!
no lub
Is the 2016 the same or will this mislead me?
Thanks
It’s a great video for people whom has some experience but for beginners would be better if you tell nuts sizes and stuff like that. And also if the pads and rotors were that bad of course you had to use grease on the pins. Btw still good video
I'm having serious brake issues with my 2018 Nissan Frontier Mushy brake pedal nearly caused me to go off the road
Dude, you can’t create a tutorial video for the most critical safety components on an automobile and completely skip over any mentioning of the importance of properly torquing the caliper bolts upon reassembly. Having a disclaimer at the start of your video isn’t going to stop every new DIY’er from following exactly what you say (or don’t say)
Is this the same process for a 4x4 model ???
Carlos Vega yes
Buen video gracias
You forgot to put grease on the pins, Oslo on the rear brakes is a brake shoes for the hand emergency brake, you call brake pads
good gosh man us some caliper grease on those shims and new pads unless you like loud brakes.
The rear doesn't have the 2 little V springs??
nope
How much does a job like this usually cost ?
I was quoted today from the dealship $550. Brakes and rotors
That hole is for adjustment..doing it wrong
No grease to lube. Nice to see you doing the torque setting after fitting. Not! Fucking Cowboy.
No torque specs.... thumbs down
gudden tight bro
Is way to fast bro
You didn't bleed the brakes.
Not necessary with changing brakes. This isnt a bleed video
wow used no grease.. not good.
Wtf slow down
Unnecessary break job on front. just clean rust from Rotors. there was plenty of meat still on pads.
“Kink the brake”
good video,
should have changed the clips to...but still a good video