How To Perform a Professional Brake Job (Pads & Rotors)
Vložit
- čas přidán 15. 05. 2024
- Do you want to make sure your brake job has no noises, vibrations, or any other issues when you’re done with it? Do you want to make sure it lasts as long as it should? Sometimes we think we know everything about a subject, but there’s always something else we can learn. You’ve probably done hundreds of brake jobs in your life, but we believe this video can help you even if it’s just one small thing you add to your process. We will take you step by step through our brake job that we do daily at our shops. We hope this helps! Enjoy!
well I think its safe to say this is the best comprehensive brake video on all youtube. This guy should actually be a college instructor or something. Really good at teaching.
I think he said he is a teacher.
Thank you for confirming the amount of work that should be done for a mechanic to say he did a proper brake job.
just like in old school auto shop class, “there’s half-ass and there’s half-fast.. always do the job right”. Great video.
If only we had guys like this in every auto shop.
standing over your shoulder nit picking? must make mechanics can't wait to go home
Clayton was looking zoned out at times, but he performed like a pro.
Not when people choose the cheapest price, which means not the best shop… not a standard because customers don’t make it a standard
Ur comment us utterly right
Alot of mechanics don't do this. It's about making fast money. You have to do it yourself if you want a thorough job.
Mechanical engineer here, truly appreciate your attention to detail and explanation of the “why” on each step. Wonderful job and all the best!!
U ain’t no engineer shut up
Professional fisherman here. Why I brought that up, no one knows. Just thought we are listing our careers. 😂😂
@@politicalfisherman540mechanical engineers (of which automotive engineering is a specialty) design these systems, so they have a better appreciation for why high precision and attention to detail are crucial. Their endorsement is meaningful.
@@DanielLuechtefeld lol, it's a brake change 🤣
@@politicalfisherman540 ... A brake job with a level of attention to detail that 99% of mechanics will never give.
This is why I do my own brake jobs. It’s super easy and I know it’s done right. Hard to find mechanics that have this much attention to detail. Great job!
I was taught how to do brake jobs when I was 13 / 14 years old. I’ve been doing my own for 40 years now. The man that taught me was my mentor when it came to mechanical work and electrical work. He was top notch at both.
I litterly was thinking the same thing as I just scrolled down and saw this comment lol .
I agree with every procedure ! I have done the very same methods since the 1970s. Would add to not push the brake pedal to the floor when closing the calipers . The master
cylinder can pick up dirt at the end of it's travel and fail .....
Most techs don't work like this !.....
Excellent Video !!.....
....
Most mechanics/tire guys aren't worth a fuck these days. Standards are slipping everywhere.
Competency crisis
Exactly,
Shops like Walmart will literally hire ANY funky off the street, no experience needed.
It blows me away that there are people who do not know the difference between the word 'break' and 'brake'. The world is full of wonders.
Most often it's predictive text on our phones doing that. Humans have to proof read what AI on our phones wrote even though we typed Brakes it changes it to breaks.
Yah what a wonderful video on a "Break" job.
@@bigfootswatching9986 I'll give you a thumbs up for effort.
As a lifelong driveway mechanic, I've done tons of shadetree brake jobs and I always try to do it right. It takes longer, and it's more slogging around with rusty dirty old parts but I always appreciate the value of a job done right and NOT having to do it again before long. Nice to see a working shop taking the time and effort to do it right. This kind of service is what any customer dreams of but rarely gets these days.
cheers.
As a rust belt guy. I like to put a thin film of high temp anti-seize in between the wheel hub surface and the rotor after cleaning it. And then another layer on the surface between the wheel and rotor face. Really helps with taking stuff apart again later on, and you spend less time cleaning the second time around too.
but won't that cause the rotor to wobble just like having rust there?
@@simply_the_dev7588 nope and a little goes a long way with antiseize.
I second that. I NH the tire will get seized. One time I couldn't get the tire off, so I went in for a tire rotation lol.
@@simply_the_dev7588
If you ever touched & worked with anti seize, that alone would answer your question. 😅
Anti seize is not supposed to be brushed on and left like that.
The brush is used to dab. After that, you’re suppose to spread it out - thin it out on the surface.
After you covered the intended surface, if still have some areas thick with anti seize, take a shop towel and wipe. There will still be a thin layer of anti seize even after such wipe.
I have a habit of using right hand pinkie-tip as my anti seize spreader. This allows me to feel how thin the anti seize has being spread.
@marcjtdc, that was good thinking!
As a previous aircraft mechanic, I'm impressed with your attention to detail. It's refreshing to see people that care about quality
*AND* caring about customers! I get doubtful going to mechanics nowadays, at times that I absolutely cannot do a DIY on the work, because most of the mechanics rush through their jobs and don't care about details. And when you bring back the car, that actually gotten worse after you have brought it in, they make excuses!
Your man needs to wear safety glasses.
As a previous video game junkie, I am impressed also.
@@tonyrock5313 He get him.
@@unebonnevie, yep. this is why i started doing my own brakes. The last shop that did my brakes did not put lug nuts on any of my wheels. I turned around and drove back as it didn't feel right. OMJ
You do NOT see this attention in any shop I've seen. I talk to apprentices and other technicians about this, and not one has ever told me that they were taught this way. I encourage them to do this because it is an investment in our futures and customer satisfaction, even though we work on fleet vehicles. I truly appreciate the fact that you explained to your audience about the correct purging of the nasty brake fluid, the importance of bleeder caps, and all the reasons why. I have found techs resistant to using these techniques because they argue they are unnecessary and time-consuming. Thank you for producing this video, as I will be using it as a teaching tool.
I say this often, " we do it right, and then there is everything else."
Some people want to get it done as fast as possible while still getting paid for the full book time.
I know, 50 years I've never seen a mechanic do this much work on brakes.
That’s exactly how I do my breaks.
I would trust you to do my breaks but not any other shops!
Great quality work!
what do you eat or drink on your breaks?
Clean around the piston and dust shroud with a plastic brush and brake cleaner BEFORE pushing the piston back. Inspect the dust boot for fit and tears. If you have to replace the boots, replace the seals too.
very good point.
My Dad's good friend was a Master Mechanic and he said the same thing. Clean the piston's rubber boot thoroughly before driving in the piston. As I remember, he said wipe it with a little brake fluid as part of cleaning it. On another note, Zinc is a sacrificial anode and it will protect an entire part even if the finish is locally removed completely in the slide areas. (ie. They weld zinc tabs on ship hulls they don't electroplate them.) I've run 96 hour salt fog tests and proven this to be true. Retired Mech Eng.
This shop does museum quality work on every day cars. Probably the best video I have ever seen on how to do a brake pad and rotor replacement the way it should be done! If you are near this shop, I would bring anything to them and pay whatever they charge because you don’t see quality like this Every day!
We would Gladly pay them to be this detailed, if you’re a customer that keeps their Volvo till it hits 300000 plus. 😎
I’m an odd customer that wants the mechanic to be paid for the detail. 🚗⚒️🪛
Well, all I can say is wow! Actually this is the exact way every technician should perform this job. The is the right way to do it. I am very glad you guys follow the procedure and are very meticulous about every step of the process. I had previous experiences with several shop where I asked them if cleaned the hub, did this or that, if they greased the pins, and those guys looked at me like as if I asked them to do something out of this world. Assholes. Thank you for doing your job so good!
Man, if I only had access to videos like this twenty years ago. Everything you've shown I learned the hard way. Awesome video.
This is exactly who you want teaching and working on your car. No BS. No shortcuts. Straight to the point and thorough. I love that moment he stopped the Mechanic to put on PPE. The whole video he was making sure it was done right and safely. This guy raised the bar. This didn’t even come off as a break job. I took this as how to service your brakes to be as if you just purchased the car brand new. Many thanks for the education.
I like the pipe, too. One accident can ruin a day. That said , great video . Love the detail of cleaning everything
This is a real brake job, plain and simple. Most just do a pad slap, maybe pad and rotor, but that's obviously wrong.
WHAT PPE??? Certainly nothing being worn while 'wirewheeling' the hub.
@@eddisc4205I think he talked about goggles while blowing brake cradles 🎉
Lol I was like, "Clayton, you need eye protection for that process." The boss should have had eye protection as well.
Nine thousands of runout is going to shake like a dog shitting tacks, the first time you drive it. Also, puting a little silicone grease UNDER the anti rattle clips helps slow down the corrosion jacking that binds up the pads. If you get bare rotors that have oil or cosomline on them, clean them with hot soapy water _first_ before you hit them with brake clean, this breaks the surface tension of the oils, and washes off any metal particles that have been left behind by machining, this is an ASE test question, and recommended by Raybestos, Kelsey-Hayes, and TRW, and I consider the manufacturer as the authority on those matters. I've been doing it this way for 32 years, and It has served me very well.
I agree with you. To prevent rust-jacking, I grease the back of my abutment clips; however, I leave the faces bare.
Been doing my own brakes for 45 years, just learned a lot on the finer details that I never knew. Many thanks for the lesson!
I have watched many tutorials on brake jobs and this one is truly excellent.
This is by far the best brake job I have ever seen on CZcams.
You must not watch many videos.
@@gncc600true
@@gncc600 what makes you say that?
@@Beaver.17 I would assume his brain communicated to his fingers to type that? But I mean who knows
@@QueenCityHornets Did that make you feel clever posting that? OP made a positive post about the work this channel is doing and this guy thought it's a mature response to shit on him without giving any reason to. At least give recommendations of better videos/ channels to watch. jeez.
In the rust belt, you need to apply grease between the clips and the caliper bracket. More likely for the pads to seize in the caliper brackets due to rust jacking, than for the caliper pins to seize, and the grease will help keep moisture out of that area. It's much more important once the vehicle has aged a bit and any factory plating is gone.
(1) Absolutely second this practice. My '16 CRV has cast iron caliper bracket, no plating, which rusts fast from salted roads, especially at rear brakes. Use a high temp lub that resists water wash out. (2) Also, when the rubber boot is a tight fit at inner end pf slide pin, put boot on slide pin first, then apply grease to slide pin, then install slide pin and boot into caliper bracket. (3) For rust belt cars - when caliper bracket is cleaned and still off car, screw bracket bolt 80% into bracket and apply thread sealer (or medium thread locker) to bracket threads at tip of bolt. This will help prevent rust-seizing of bolt in the bracket. As a DIY mechanic, I don't want to have to deal with a broken bolt at next brake job. (4) Finally (for rust belt corroded brakes) consider using a big puller to pull rotor off hub. The "heavy" hammer method of getting rotor off hub risks damaging wheel bearings, and steering linkage (at front). (5) Although I use a decent torque wrench, once fully torqued, I paint critical bolt heads at their bottom with (office) white-out. Then check that bolts have not moved after some driving.
Thanks for posting this really great video.
I second the second comments! I like wiping on nickel anti-sieze between the anti rattle clips and the caliper bracket
Yup overkilled everything else but forgot the most important step smh.
I agree. Indeed, lubricate the back of abutment clips, leaving the faces dry. Last time I used brake grease but I am going to try anti-seize on my next brake service. As it stands, I will be using Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant for slide pins, Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant for brake pad shims, Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant for the back of the abutment clips, and Loctite LB 8007 Copper-Base Anti-Seize Lubricant spray for the hubs.
By the way, to prevent overspraying hubs with anti-seize, I place a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing over each stud and a piece of cardboard, with an axle cut-out, behind hubs. I prefer spraying over brushing hubs, the former method creating an even coat, a coat less likely to cause runout.
@@howardpike6415 Great idea about the white-out!
Appreciate you keeping your techs eyes safe with safety glasses.
“A person can run or walk on a fake leg, but can’t see out of a fake eye.”
This isn't going to hold up well 🤷♂️
I wear a KN95 mask when performing a brake service as well. Although they no longer contain asbestos, breathing that stuff cannot be for one's health.
Need to wear them all the time. Starts from the top down, shop culture.
I've been a DIY mechanic for 40 years but mainly engines. I'm just about to do my first pads & rotors replacement. So glad I watched this first to avoid mistakes I probably would have made.
As a home mechanic, I didn't know to open the bleeders before pushing the pistons in, thank you for this info.
This is fantastic. Im a weekend warrior with a pile of wrenches. Ive been doing my own brakes for years and still learned a lot of valuable information here. Thank you guys for the time and detailed explanations.
You guys need to Teach other Garages how to do a Brake job..COMPLETE..well done😊
I am impressed with the cleanliness of your shop. In my opinion, this is a sign of a well-run business.
1. I’ll clean the slide pins before removing the bracket. 2. Put a thin film on the caliper contact points instead of the back of the pad so there’s no grease to absorb dust. 3. Instead of lubing the shims, put a thin coat on the pad contacts. Again, to keep dust from sticking to the exposed grease. Clayton needs a cart right next to where he’s working to set his tools on.
Wise tips indeed.
After 10 yrs of turning a wrench I just bought a foldable service cart. One of the best decisions I made. No more tools on the ground or multiple trips bringing tools from one side to another. Also high quality lights!
I don't know this, but he may actually have one for normal brake jobs. They may have had the tools in a slightly different place for filming purposes.
I've done a dozen brake jobs the exact same way you guys do and I've never had someone come back for noise or vibration. It's the perfect brake job! Great video. Thank you for posting.
its honestly not rocket science. this should all be basic knowledge. never argue about torque spec unless you have a masters degree in engineering. although the reminder about opening the bleeder valve when compressing the piston is a good tip, especially ones with older brake fluid.
@@drywater3559 The explanation about thoroughly cleaning all the mounting surfaces was a pretty good thing to include as well. Most backyard mechanics would never even think about that stuff, but it's pretty important. I've spent most of my life not paying that much attention to that, and I generally haven't really had an issue I've noticed, but it's pretty clear why it could result in some problems.
Wish all brake shops had someone like you to teach their mechanics the right way to perform this job.
I'm the tech. I don't have comebacks often. Sorry to say but the reason we don't do half these steps is because of what we are getting paid. An hour to do front pads and rotors. And an hour for the rear. Greasing the slide pins real quick fine. But polishing hubs for 10 mins each wheel and everything else they are doing screws the tech. Yea the owner marks the parts up 300% probably 600 to 800 on this brake job for the front and rear. Gets a rotor for 20 charges you 80. 2 or 3 hours of labor for the tech at 30 and hr say. Which is more often like 20 an hr for these guys they trick for years. So $60 for the tech and $800 for the shop that does pads, rotors, hardware, wire brushing, labor, sandblasting, and whatever else they throw on that ticket. Shop wins, customer wins, tech loses. Explain that to the customer or to all you people on youtube.
My experience in the rust belt of Ontario Canada dictates that you must lubricate all metal mating metal surfaces. Put your favorite stuff on the hub face, between the caliber and the pads, between the bracket and the anti rattle hardware, and between the brake pad ears and the anti rattle shims. It's also good to apply stuff between the face of the brake disk and the wheel rim. If you don't do this there will be rusk jacking and binding sooner or later. Despite doing all this I've had binding brake pads and slide pins after a single winter. My practice is to clean and re-lube in the fall when i swap my summer to winter tires, and the spring when I swap the tires again. It's different in the rust belt.
Yes same story in upstate NY. The rear caliper pin on my Lexus GS was so locked I had to get new ones. I tried heat, gave up. Maybe acetylene would work.
i always use antisieze between the caliper bracket and the anti rattle clips or rust jacking will definitely be an issue
I live in Ottawa and do the same thing, RUST IS A BITCH to deal with. I clean and lube my pins when I swap my tires and I clean and the wheel hub and grease them with anti ant seize too. We guys from Eastern Ontario and Western Quebec could show some of these guys on U Tube some rusted vehicle's and their parts that would leave them speechless!
@@davidcampbell1899 I also blast inside of my 11 F150 frame with fluid film. A friend had his turn to swiss cheese.
@alb12345672 Yes, I have my car krowned every year ( fluid film) to keep it from rusting. My F150 is 20 years old and my Camry is 10 years old.
Two things here:
1- I never opened the bleeder when pushing the piston back and never had problems but it's a very good point and will definitely do it from now on
2- I ALWAYS use high temp anti-seize on the hub to not get the rotor to rust and stick to it. This step makes the cleaning the hub from rust on the next brake job a 30 sec job (just spray brake cleaner and it'll dissolve it ,then wipe clean).I'd like to know if there's any drawback by doing so ,I can only see advantages but I'm not Mr Know-it-all
The rest of the steps are exactly like I do and very nicely explained here.
i've heard a lot of times, that if you put anti seize between the hub and the rotor, it could take a fake reading when you torque the wheels since anti seize is soft. Is it true? i don't know.
I always just put a thin smear of brake grease on the hub since it's already right there. Never had any issues and it wipes right off later.
Use the spray can copper grease, it will add a thin coating preventing rust. Don't want a thick layer for this application. Doing this will keep the hub surface nice, smooth, and rust free.
@@orhansejfulov7437Not true at all. Anti-seize will actually give you a more accurate torque reading, since you’re not measuring the friction from the threads. Tightening to the proper torque value is done because you’re stretching the fastener to a degree, depending on the torque spec, and you don’t want it over or under torqued. However, it’s recommended that you never put anti seize on a lug nut. Just clean those threads.
You should NEVER use anti-seize on either surface of the rotor or the hub.
The rotors are actually supposed to "stick" to the hub and the wheel so that the braking momentum can be transferred via friction between the surfaces.
If this friction is reduced, the momentum acts as a shearing force on your wheel bolts. You don't want that.
I’m a diy guy and I’ve been doing my own brake jobs for 50 years. As a teenager, on old card with drum brakes I did everything wrong. Luckily, I survived those botched brake jobs! I’ve tried to learn and get better with each successive job. It was fun for me to see that I do the same or a variation of your process for most of these steps. But I certainly learned from your video!
Great to see real professionals at work!
Thanks for the video.
This is perhaps the most comprehensive demonstration of how to properly do a brake job.
I’m not a mechanic, but have been doing my families brakes for almost 50 years.
The only thing that I would do a little differently is to apply brake lubricant to the brake piston rim and calliper, where the back of the pad makes contact, instead of the entire back of the pad.
This should achieve the same purpose, but reduce the accumulation of brake dust, on the back of the pad.
Much respect, shirts tucked, floors swept, shop tidy and bright, fender covers, THIS is a shop I would trust with my vehicles! I do all my own work as it’s what I went to school for and I find very few shops that do things right!
I spend all day on a brake job because the details MATTER! If you want to do it once in a 100k miles, do it right the first time!
As long as people like you exist shops like this will exist. I worry most people have no knowledge about how their car works and just want to pay less and wait less, therefore demanding shortcuts. People like you keep places like this in business.
One thing that wasn’t mentioned and should ALWAYS be done is a proper bedding/burnishing of the new pads to the rotors… this is a crucial step in having a long lasting setup and a proper friction coefficient to prevent warping, or high deposits from excess heat while stopped. This is a step that takes time but is 100% worth it.
I've been buying ceramic brake pads and coated rotors for the last 10 years. Both products state they have no brake in periods. I think I've only bought one set of super plain steel rotors that had some lube on them that needed a scrub. The rest don't but I still spray them down real quick with brake clean incase they packaged it with anything. Slap it all together and drive around the block and getting a couple 25-5 stops and call it done. Haven't had issues yet. Did one full brake set on my truck in two parts and never went back to it in the 5 years I still owned it, then junked it for a bad transmission that I didn't have diagnosed. Did a full brake job on my equinox and man the brake system on that vehicle was junk. Only had to reopen the front left due to a bad caliper and all I did was throw in a junk ceramic pad from Napa on the inside twice.
Who exactly does "proper bedding and burnishing of the new pads to the rotors"?? And what exactly is that even supposed to mean?
I changed my own brakes and I simply change the parts and just drive the car. And when in years past I have paid other people to do it no one has ever said "don't forget to bed the brakes in".
@@alexanderSydneyOz your ignorance to the issue doesn’t make it irrelevant or un true. Nor does the fact that it’s generally ignored or neglected even by “professionals”.
Do some research.
This is and will be the BEST brake job tutorial on the net.
Exactly how my father taught me, besides the bead blasting. Been turning wrenches for 30 years as a pro, you lose credibility and pride after a come back, no matter how seasoned you are. This is this most thorough and comprehensive guide to brake service. Hopefully, words gets around in your area about the great service you provide and keep you busy with return customers.
That's the most serious, thorough brake job I've ever even _heard_ of someone doing.
Very detailed I am also an aircraft mechanic. I wish there were more shops like yours out there, sometimes us mechanics would like someone else to fix our problems since we do it all week. Unfortunately great shops are few and far between these days. P.S. you forgot to put the rubber cap on the bleeder screw, its on the lift behind you 😉
Everything about your attention to detail makes my brain HAPPY !
OUTSTANDING !
This is the best video over ever seen on brakes. Already mentioned, but worth mentioning again. If you live in Michigan, and you've spent 45 beating a rotor off... you place a nice thin layer of anti-seize on the hub, before replacing the rotor. None on the lug nuts.
Especially for home jobs, where you don't have 80 rotor removal options (like a shop)... you'll thank yourself when you encounter that rotor again.
I use a piece of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing on each wheel stud to guard the threads along with a cardboard shield with axle cut-out, placed behind the hub, before spraying a light coat of copper anti-seize.
I absolutely love the way you explain what you do and why you do it while not acting like a “know it all”. I totally agree with every step you take to ensure a professional brake service - Great video and thanks for sharing - You are a true professional and a master of your craft - Thank You
Fluid Film on a well cleaned hub, brake grease (e.g., Permatex Ceramic Extreme) on the caliper mounting brackets under the ant-rattle clips, and silicone-based grease (e.g., 3M silicone paste) on the caliper slide pins. It's the only way to go in the rust belt, and the best way to get maximum life from your brakes. Overall, a very well done video. Clayton did a great job cleaning out the bores on the caliper mounting brackets. This is an often overlooked, but very important, step. Also be sure the carefully check the condition of the rubber slide pin boots. They're your first line of defense for keeping water and grit away from your slide pins.
100%
what is your opinion on cracking the bleeder screws to press back in the caliper piston? You know for sure that bleeder screws in the rust belt love to shear off.
agreed. I use a soft wire brush in a drill to do the pin bores with the a vice. Works good AND fast
@@Doomzdayxxdepends how badly rusted they are and if you have already done them on that vehicle
This is the way
@@DoomzdayxxHeat is needed, crack them with a proper six sided socket or wrench(avoid flare wrenches).
This man is a shinning example of excellence!!! I wish him great success and please keep sharing your knowledge!!!
Warm Greetings from Ontario, Canada.
This is the BEST brake job how-to I have ever seen on CZcams.
ALWAYS nice seeing things DONE RIGHT.
Thank yous. Subbed.
Cheers!
You may know this already (but did not clearly state it). MOST "brake grease" is actually bad (deteriorates rubber). My understanding is that ONLY SILICONE PASTE should be used on the pins.
Superlube
I think you are right buddy, Silicon paste on the slide pins.
Yeah. In general rubber types in the braking system are compatible with water based or soluble chemicals (acids/alkalies, alcohol, glycol, anti-freeze, brake fluid), NOT petroleum products (oil, grease, fuel).
you are correct. it can deteriorate rubber or swell the rubber which seizes the caliper pins. i only use 3m silicone paste
I use Molykote for brake pins and pads, etc. made specifically for brake work. I also use oem spec grease only.
This is the kind of detailed and, most importantly, critical information you never get on other videos or tutorials for brake service. Yes, anyone can slap pads on a rotor and call it a brake job, but it takes experience to know how to do it properly so you don't end up with problems in just a couple thousand miles.
Thank you for sharing this!
This is a shop I will trust my car for service. Great job
i agree with everything he saying. You don't have to go the extra mile but it does have a positive affect. I rather have a job done right than a job done fast.
Now that's how you do a brake job! Nice work Clayton and an awesome detailed video.
So when you do brakes and you want to get the caliper bracket clean where the pads ride, you can use a straight grinder with a wire wheel. If you don’t have a sandblaster to get down into the cracks. A steel wire wheel works good! Guys you put out great videos!
When I do my brakes I do some extra steps:
- After removing the rust under where the stainless steel clips sit(with a file), I put a thin coat of brake grease to prevent rust from re-forming under the clips.
- I remove the slider pins AND the rubber bellows, clean them well, and scrape out any rust in the grooves where the rubber bellows sit, then put brake grease in the grooves to keep water and dirt out.
I love the thorough breakdown of the the thought process in each step! Thank you!
This has to be the most in-depth and through brake repair i have ever seen on U Tube. great work! You have even taught me a few things!
I've always replaced my own brakes but I've never addressed sticky slide pins, lubing contact points, cleaning off rust. I always wondered why my brakes don't last longer or why I get noisy brakes after. Now I know. Thx guys👍
same, I've done em before but not this thorough, will do a better job next time!
This is such a high quality and generous thing to share. Your shop is exactly the kind of place you can bring your vehicle and have complete peace of mind and confidence in the quality of work being done. It looks like you and the crew run a stellar shop!
There are a number of really useful tips here. You've changed the way I do brakes. Thanks!
Very good example of the right way to do a brake job! Only additional things I would mention are a thin layer of anti-seize like others have said and I seat the pads into the rotors with a short drive after. I drive up to 40 miles an hour then make an aggressive stop (without coming to a complete stop), then repeat the process about 10 times, then drive for 10 minutes without using the brakes to cool it down. The idea is to not let the vehicle come to a complete stop and have the pads seat their material evenly. I've noticed a huge difference in stopping performance after I started doing this.
That's called bedding the brakes and it makes all the difference in stopping power. It also reduces noise and increases the lifespan of your pads. Unfortunately pretty much no shops do this.
@@dayjeremy you're right . I didn't think about it before I started doing my own brakes but I imagine no major chain shop I've taken it to in the past would actually go out and burnish my brakes themselves. I live in the city. I bet they simply put them on and called it a day. "That'll be $950.00, buddy,"
When I do it, I'll go out to the back roads where no one is and as soon as I start, sure enough, some ass hat is right behind me! I've gotten so tired of that I just make them wait for me and they're thinking who is this idiot who keeps speeding up and then slamming on the brakes, LOL.
ya .i have been pushing cylinders back without cracking the bleeders for 35 years. never had a issue but i will always do it moving forward.makes all the sense in the world.espesially with all the exspensive high teck componets in todays cars.
I also add anti seize brake lube around ring and in between the wheel studs that contacts the back side of the rotor, especially if you live in a salt environment: road salt or ocean. This will make it a lot easier to remove rotor for maintenance check/ clean & re-lube on backs of pads, hardware, or replacement of parts.
If you're this thorough with every brake job... Dude you're the man!! #ThisIsAwesome!
Great video here! Four items that I think were missed per OEM instructions. 1) Only silicone-based high-temp grease should be used on the caliper pins. Any petrolum-based will cause the boots and pin dampers to swell and fail. 2) When cleaning the pin boots and caliper piston boot, use a bit of silicone spray to get them clean and nice and pliable. 3) Thermal paste (3M Molykote M-77) should be used on the back of the pad, and on the shims to more efficiently carry heat off the face of the pad, into the backing and ultimately into the caliper frame. Each touch point of the pad (ears and back) should have thermal paste applied. I do not apply it to the full back of the outer shim, where it will collect dirt and looks bad with painted calipers. Instead, put the thermal paste on the fingers of the caliper frame and the face of the piston. 4) I use a thin layer of anti-seize paste on the face of the hub to keep the rotor from seizing with corrosion.
Excellent demonstration of a correct and thorough brake job.
Perhaps one of the best videos out there about break pads installation and process. Great job guys!
I am an Industrial Mechanic for a fortune 100 company. And amateur backyard auto mechanic. Two completely different fields! And I really found this video helpful and probably the best front brake replacement video that I have seen. Excellent job of explain every step! Definitely, learned a few things. Thanks.
I gotta say i watched brake job vids and this is the BEST most attention to detail and most practical at the same time. You guys are the BEST!
This is where I want my car worked on if I'm not doing it myself. Love the attention to detail and integrity of your work! Also - THANK YOU for mentioning pumping the brakes after doing pads. So many videos skip that, and obviously dangerous if it isn't done, especially on front brakes, when it moves for the first time after getting back on the ground.
Nice to see a shop do as thorough a job as I do. I prefer to do this stuff myself as the majority of places today don't do what you guys do so cheers 🎉to you guys!!!!
Nice job, men. It is refreshing to see a pro shop that puts quality up front.
I liked seeing how much you guys emphasize the quality of the job and aren't being sloppy.
Awesome video! I'm apprentice at a shop and I know how to do brakes but i was never taught to THIS LEVEL of attention to detail. I will be implementing this from now on.
Tremendous tutorial ! Thanks gentlemen !! Very good standards 👍🏼 . Keep up the great work !
Best and most thorough brake job video I’ve seen on CZcams.
Quality and pride in your work. Wish this was industry standard.
Great video. This was actually very well done. People who complain about excess time or labour are just lazy in my opinion. Do it right the first time or don’t do it at all. If I didn’t live so far (I’m in Canada), I would have drove down to your shop in a heartbeat. I like knowing people are taking care of my vehicle the same way I would. Lastly, kudos to Clayton! He did an excellent job.
Man, this is an excellent video and I love your attitude and attention to detail. We have a company in a different industry and have the same philosophy. I like doing my own brakes and learned a lot here! I wish your shop was near us as we would definitely bring our vehicles to you. I subscribed after seeing your workmanship
The very best video I ever watched on replacing brakes. Great job!
It appears a concise, well reasoned, supported, quality, benchmark brake change process has been defined and well presented in this video for all. Thanks!
You’re absolutely right about the importance of torque specifications.
So many techs that I interact with seem to be disinterested in torquing bolts down properly in favor of the expediency of tightening by feel.
At the end of the day, I get it - they’re probably pressured to get vehicles off the lift ASAP, so no judgement from this corner.😅
As an amateur, I have the luxury of time, so I can be very detailed just like you guys 👍
Cutting corners is not cool. This is why I vet my mechanic shops and luckily only use Independent mechanics for my vehicle services. And I have a 2019 XC-40 and it's services are done by an Independent Volvo only at a mechanic/owner's shop. He's been in business since 1982, same location, so I trust him with no hesitation. I also have an Independent Lexus mechanic/owner that I found for my 2023 ES300h Ultra Luxury. He was trained by Toyota and Lexus and he performs all maintenance services on my new vehicle. I have have already had the oil & filter changes done twice with Liqui Moly Special Tech AA 0W16 and a Toyota OEM filter (once at 1,000 miles to replace the factory fluids and filter and once at 6,000 miles). Only have 8,200 miles on the Odometer.
THANK YOU! I have been doing my own brakes for >30 years, and I picked up a couple of things from this video. And I am going to MAKE my daughters boyfriend watch this also.
Nicely organized in that the video is directed toward folks who have already done brake jobs. Always more to learn!
Massive help. Middle Australia in the Bush. Isolsted and this absolutely saved my bacon.
best brake job tutorial out there. Very rare and great advice as always😁🤙
Thank you so much guys! I'm very interested in fixing cars. I've never did a brake job and this video was super interesting. I'm 62 yrs old but it's never too late to learn. Hopefully, one day I can do a brake job w/ some help from an experienced mechanic. God bless you 2 men.
Most in depth brake job I’ve seen on CZcams! I’m a DIYer and this was a great refresher and I even picked up something new: Never thought of opening the bleeder valve when pressing the caliper back in to get rid of sediment!
If the shops around me did a job this good I would feel comfortable having someone else do it besides myself! Hats off to you guys!
Awesome work. Thank you for teaching us all the right way to do it. Salutations from France and have a great new 2024 year.
Professional mechanic here, excellent video! Thank you so much, I learned a lot with it!
Thanks so much for going into the details on how to perform a brake job...I learn a lot watching this video.
Great Job I would go to your shop in a heartbeat.
Great video and I’ve been turning wrenches for 40 years.. well done guys, I love that you really cleaned the caliper carrier “I want that snappy bead cabinet” nevertheless you emphasized all the critical points in this job that typically issues come from, I like to add slyglide to the piston dust boot and the slide pin boots .. just to keep them from drying out, I also add a dash of blue loctite to the carrier bolts and caliper bolts .. and great job on cleaning the hub face I spend several minutes on that then will apply slight layer of never seize or fluid film on my newly cleaned hub so the rotor will come off easy.. really great commentary and production all around 👍🏻
Great job Clayton .. and to all the shop staff that are meticulous as Clayton with cleaning and torquing to specs you guys are real hard working guys that we want doing the work for our vehicles carrying ourselves and loved ones
What brand of rotors do you use
@@WMGILMARTIN depends on the vehicle.. but for the VW/Audi which are the cars I have a mostly work on.. I like Zimmerman or Brembo
I've been doing my own brakes forever. And apparently I've been doing it wrong. Great information! Thank you for being so meticulous! I learned a good bit.
Same. Lol
Lot of useful information most people won't think is important or necessary but you are absolutely correct.
Been doing my own brake jobs here in the uk for 35 years and have to admit I learnt plenty from this video, thanks very much fellas. Great work.
I had watched hundreds of brake job videos and you are the best well explained instructor doing brake jobs in a proper way.
Excellent Video Your explanations are so sample and very practical. Best regards from a Canadian Serbian Semi Retired Mechanic and Professional Ex-Boxer You and Your Son doing an Excellent educational very practical Snow hat anybody can and should learn even Mechanics . .
this is the clearest demonstration i have seen so far on youtube. i wish my mechanic trainor is doing the same approach as you guys do.
Now that's a quality brake job. Its those fine details that makes the brakes feel like new for the life of the pads 🙂