With all due respect, the problem with many mechanics, is who to trust, regardless of the price they charge they will always use the cheapest parts for them to make more money, and if you ask them if the parts they're installing are good most of them will say the best. It's very rare to find honest mechanics, most of them are ready to take as much of your hard earned money as they can, I'm not sure who takes the cake, used car salesman or mechanics. It's good that you have this video out to educate us on what to look for.
Unfortunately, you're not wrong. It seems that this industry has more dishonest mechanics than it has honest ones. My suggestion is to ask around your area who people trust and speak to them before bringing your car to them. Almost like an interview. Once you find a good one, stick with them and be loyal. Go to them for everything from oil changes to major repairs. We definitely appreciate loyalty and try to go above and beyond for our customers who are faithful to us. Good luck in your search!
@@MrMaxggangster buy your own steak and bring it to a resturant... I will never install customer supplied parts. What happens when we take the car apart and you purchased the wrong parts. Now I have to wait with your car apart? Are you going to pay for the time wasted? What happens when the parts fail? Are you expecting the shop to remove them for free? When we sell a part it comes with a warranty of parts and labor. Let's say you buy brakes and they fail. You're involved in an accident resulting in injury. You think the lawyer isn't going after the shop even though you supplied the parts! Absolutely not. Everyone gets sued including the mechanic. I have other reasons but these are my primary ones. If you find a shop that will install your parts, they are likely not a good shop because they have not thought of or do not care about any of the things I mentioned. Most likely they have no insurance or they are a handy man type place that fixes cars and washing machines because they don't have a proper business model.
Sir, was out pricing a front brake job YESTERDAY, so how lucky I was to see your video, with so much information you provided on the pertinent questions, pricing and longevity of the “WHITE BOX” vs the guality parts, right down to the “ ROADTEST “ I am several states away from your business or you’d have my business…… EXCELLENT VIDEO !!
I'm so glad we were able to help you! Currently, we find that Durago DMS or DES rotors are the best quality, depending on your application. We pair it with Power Stop ceramic brake pads. This combination seems to last the longest with little to no rotor warping. You should be able to find the parts at a good local autoparts store or online at places like Rock Auto I wish you luck, and Thank you for watching and commenting!
Its 2024 and this is by far the best brake and rotor service i have ever seen. From the high quality rotors to the sanded and painted calipers, you stand out from alot of shops. I am from upstate NY and it would definitely be worth the 7 hour drive to have you work on my vehicle.
You always need good parts and good things for good results. We say here in Germany: Wer billig kauft, kauft zweimal Who buy something cheap, will buy it twice I am a mechanic in germany and i know: Good mechanics are good mechanics everywhere. It is always good to see, man doing a good job Stay healthy
Thank you! Our shop works very hard to make customers happy. Quality parts and reliable service is how we accomplish that! Thank you for watching and commenting. Stay healthy and good luck to your shop in Germany!
As a former PA State Trooper Vehicle Fraud investigator my hats off to this mechanic. I had to deal with over 1,800 garages and dealerships on a routine bases in my coverage area and It goes both way's many bad garages that also push parts not needed and also garages that pass cars that shouldn't pass. There is no shortage of crime in the automotive industry. I could write a book of automotive horror stories in this field.
That's probably why a lot of states scrapped their safety inspection programs. They didn't make the roads safer, and people were getting ripped off. The only winners were unscrupulous mechanics.
Fraud is rampant in every area of life. As a former deputy, loss prevention detective, private investigator, and working in multiple different fields, I can tell you that the amount of dishonest, fraudulent, unethical crap I have seen is staggering. The biggest problem....the people in charge who could make a difference....didn't care.
All the good mechanics I find are on you tube and 100s of miles away. I thought I had found a good mechanic a few miles from home. He did a few jobs on our trucks and I felt like it was OK. He also seemed to be willing to talk and answer a few questions. I ask a lot. I use Amsoil fluids on all our trucks, since I’m pretty handy I also do all the fluid services myself. Front and rear differential plus transfer case and in the case of my son’s xterra the transmission fluid. I have a 2018 Escalade and I wanted to do the transmission fluid change but I was a bit intimidated so I asked the mechanic if he would do it. I also told him I wanted it done with Amsoil, he said he didn’t order Amsoil but if I brought it he’d do it. I also don’t like to put any after market parts on this truck so I gave him the filter and gasket. He said he’d do it. When I came to pick the truck up the Transmission fluid was still in the back of the truck and he said his assistant didn’t want to use it because it was the wrong fluid. It was not, it was ignorance. He said the job was very complicated and the had to lower the exhaust and the catalytic converter to gain access. He charged me an exorbitant amount of money I paid him and left. A couple of days later when I had some time I got under the truck to check and see if I could tell what was done. There wasn’t a single mark on any bolt, the pan was super dirty, the bolts on the exhaust all had an even coat of rust. It was really evident to me that in reality they probably did nothing. By the way I asked him for the gasket they removed and he said I really didn’t need it and it was in the garbage, I really should have pressed him for it. I want you to know that people like me appreciate people like you who make these videos and teach us what to do, what to look for and give valuable advice. It’s very difficult to find good mechanics. I don’t mind paying if I am really getting the service I paid for.
Thumbs up for explaining why and how you do what you do! As a person who became a DIY mechanic due to bad dealership service, I appreciate work like this. As far as a quality job, the truth is, with the way the economy and wages are, many people have lived financially on the edge for a long time. So even if they came across an honest mechanic like this, they had to decide whether to invest that extra $100 in a brake job with a longer life or use it elsewhere. If you have extra $, especially in rust prone areas (rust belt, North East, Ocean towns [salt], etc.), pay for the better job from a well-rated mechanic. If you're like me, it also looks much better. I can't stand seeing rusted rotors through wheels/rims.
Thank you. We originally made this video for our website. We didn't realize how viral it would go. Now that CZcams made us into a real channel. Our plan is to make more videos explaining how and why things work on cars and how to fix them. Please subscribe if you haven't. I promise our content will be beneficial to diy mechanics! Let us know if there is something specific you'd like to learn about.
Honest? That caliper was in perfectly good shape, it simply needed to be cleaned with a wire brush. New pads come with new clips that fit into the caliper, the "sliding issue" wasn't an issue at all.
Well done vid, with some really good info. Many people don't realize that cheaper usually costs more in the long run. I'm old enough to know what a lathe was back in the day, when rotors were made in the U.S. and Canada and were pricey 👍🏽
Thank you! I started in 1996 and I remember cutting rotors and packing bearings. The parts lasted forever! Manufacturers realized that they could make a lot more money selling lesser quality parts and they save money making the rotors half as thick as they used to be. It's a win win for them. Unfortunately for the average consumer, they don't know the difference between parts and mechanics will take advantage of that. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@WinterAutoRepair this is why I do all my own car but would easy let you loos on it can't trust anyone now I'm on my third set of pads same discs they are smooth all even wear they will take another set of break pads all very good quality. Great content I love what your doing and the way your doing it top man 👍❤
Thank you sir for being transparent with how your shop procedures work. I wish your shop was near by so I can bring my tundra for new breaks. You got a new sub here. Greatly appreciated, have a happy New Year...GB!
@@WinterAutoRepair - fortunately, I live in PA and my son is a licensed Inspection Tech. He doesn't let anything go. I appreciate that type of service. Glad to see you are trying to educate your customers and everyone else.
@@chloedecker4991 hey detective is there a reason you're posting the link every time you respond? just curious and i know what happened with the cat and knowledge brought it back. LOL
I recognize those rotors and the purple grease - I use those for my vehicle as well. :) I just told a co-worker of mine about that purple grease 3 days ago, and here I stumble upon this video! And, most critically, thank you for bedding in the rotors & pads! Once I learned about that, and after the first time that I went through the process and felt the difference, it was like the sky opened up and I was given a golden gift. I've done all I can to share this knowledge with others, as not only does this prolong the life of your brakes, but improves the stopping distance too! This is 100% a safety and security step that every vehicle should go through any time the pads and rotors are replaced.dd
Permatex introduced a red silicone ceramic grease that is designed to be used with rubber components (ie. Caliper pin dampers). The purple grease can be used everywhere else..spread the word.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching the video and commenting! Please let us know if there's something you'd like to see. Subscribe to our channel to see new content! It helps us grow our channel.
The ones that are less honest act like they own your car & get irritated easily. Unfortunately its a dice roll everytime you get service... these days they put a jr tech to work on your vehicle... so at least find a place where you can talk to the mechanic directly..
Try looking up BNI. It stands for Business Networking International. The is a networking group to help small businesses. We are part of our local chapter and we are held to a higher customer service standard. If we receive complaints we are removed from the group. The businesses involved are definitely higher quality. You should also try asking for recommendations from your local towns Facebook group. Take those recommendations and interview your choice to make sure they are a good fit for you! Good luck in your search and thank you so much for watching and commenting on our video.
If only people realized, I'd spend twice as much easily if they talked like this. The moment you talk to me about quality and integrity, I'm sold. Thanks!
I don't understand why shops don't offer better quality. Not everyone wants to buy the cheapest product, especially when safety is involved! When you need repair work done, ask your mechanic if this is the best quality part for the job. Almost every part of the car has 3 choices quality wise. Thank you for watching and commenting!
I had the front brakes of my car repaired last year. My mechanic showed me three levels of quality (and warranty) of rotors and pads; and the difference was not enough to convince me that cheaper is better, so I went with the best.
Good choice! At least he gave you the option of quality parts. Most shops use the cheapest to get your business and then to get your business again soon because the cheap parts have worn out. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you because of you I am buying high Carbon quality rotor asap and have install asap. great video I live in NY other wise I take my Car to your shop.
Awesome! This video was created for our website to educate our customers as to how we install brakes and why! I'm glad you enjoyed it! We will be making more videos now, so if there is something you'd like to see, please comment what it is! Please subscribe if you haven't, which helps us make more videos. Thank you, and happy new year!
i have a 2019 ram power wagon, only have 30,000 miles on it and its never stopped great or felt super smooth and i bought it new. I just said hell with it and swapped out to powerstop drilled slotted rotors with some good pads and it transformed the truck. I never worried too much because i was the only driver but my oldest boy just got his license so i went for it, every mechanic around my home will half ass everything to make a buck so i wish i had a shop like yours around! I spent 21 years active duty combat medic so i have enough basic understanding if keeping things going and doing it the correct way the first time from years of managing our trucks in the army but for those who dont know much about this stuff you would be amazed at the difference it makes, changed it to a very enjoyable ride! ty for what you do Sir!
There's definitely a difference in quality from OEM to aftermarket, the original pads and rotors on my Silverado lasted 77,000 miles brakes from auto zone lasted 17,000 so I went to a high quality set again..
There are many levels of pads and rotors. For most cars we can get pads as cheap as $9 and as expensive as $149 for a set. The pads we use are typically in the $85 range. The cost is a little higher initially but will last soo much longer that they pay for themselves in the long run. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't, we really appreciate it.
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I hope you start putting out more videos like this. I would feel far better walking into a mechanic shop with more knowledge like what I learned from this vid
The OE front rotors on my 2010 Acura TL last for 110k miles. Of course I changed the pads 3 times and I greased the calipers every seasons but I was amazed by their overall durability. Buy cheap = buy twice.
Congrats. You must be fairly easy on your brakes. You're absolutely right, when you buy cheap you'll definitely have to buy again. Thank you for watching and commenting
How many times did you have them turned? I'm guessing at least once, personally I've never been fond of turning rotors even if it meant replacing them with cheaper knockoffs. Turning the rotors reduces the heat sink effect, I think I'd rather have cheaper rotors with more metal on them than a turned rotor, in my experience the ones that have been turned warp all too easily.
@@donniev8181 dude, did you see those rotors? Yeah, you can cut them if you live south of WV but after 3 years of frozen north winters - your rotors will have turned to dust. It’s just the way it is up here.
Great video, Chris !!! Are the rotors you're using the DuraGo Electrophoretic Coated ones, or are they Centric Rotors? Since I live in San Diego by the beach, will these rotors be an ideal choice for a daily driver 2011 Toyota Venza? Thanks
We only use Centric. The rotors we used in this video were their high carbon 125 line. Being near the beach the coating will definitely help prevent rust and increase the life of the brakes! Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your brake job.
Mechanic here, you nailed it. Two things I really push my customers on, brakes and tires. Don't cheap out on those. I never do for myself and I'm a family man so I want to be safe as well. I'll let a coolant or oil or evap leak go a bit, but when brakes or tires aren't performing I'm throwing a bunch of money into them. It'll save your life. I was in only one accident in my life and I hit a deer because both my brakes and tires were cheap and too far gone. Never again. Appreciate your attention to detail of replacing parts that are too far gone, cleaning up what can be cleaned up, greasing moving parts, etc. You're 100% right, it goes a long way and prevents so many issues. Prevention is better than treatment. Agreed also about cutting the rotors, you just can't anymore, they are too thin. You might be able to get away with 2 sets of pads on the same rotor, maybe 3 in the off case, but rotors are designed to wear at almost the same rate as pads anymore. Not necessarily bad because they are cheaper overall. It is what it is. Just remember, your life is one solid brake performance away from being over.
Also the cost of getting rotors turned got ridiculous almost as much as replacing the rotor in some cases,and every time they get turned they get thinner so they warp easier
Good to see technicians out there doing a proper job. As a customer, i always say I'm willing to pay more for better service and quality parts. Cheap parts never payoff in the long run.
Thank you, and it's very true. Good quality costs more initially, but it is a much better value in the long run. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Thank you for the video! I really learnt alot especially the brake grease I was not aware that you could use grease on brakes!...with regards to the brake bedding procedure can you give us some tips please?
As far as bedding goes. Go to a road without traffic if possible. Travel at 40 mph and slow down to around 10 mph then back to 40 and repeat stopping 5 or 6 times. Then drive without braking for a bit. Start over with the 40 mph to 10 mph again. I do this 3 times and then drive for a few minutes on a highway where I can not hit the brakes for about 10 minutes. Once done I park the car for an hour where the brakes can cool all the way down. There are many procedures but for street cars this is the process I use. Race cars I do a higher speed process but that doesn't apply here. Good luck with it!
@@donniev8181 I’m not a mechanic (I just work on my own stuff), but what part do you disagree with to the point where it’s “unfortunate” that he is doing more than he needs to?
@@CamaroBrad because in the end the customer is having to pay for parts that weren't needed. Sure, if the customer wants new rotors that's fine but an honest mechanic would never replace that brake bracket just because of some surface rust.
@@donniev8181fair enough. I don’t think he replaced it though. He said he sanded it and painted it to protect it. So I guess depending on how much he charged for that. If it was me I’d probably just use a wire brush and throw new clips/hardware on it.
I'm 65. I bought my first car when I was 17. I've owned many cars over the years, and had many brake jobs. I've never seen or heard of any brake shop, sanding down brake caliper brackets, let alone painting them. Until now.
Thank you so much for the video. I always believe in good brakes and tires having said that what do you recommend brands for rotors? I live in Houston and my commute requires quick stopping all day long. I've using Centric and Raybesto rotors and Akebono pads.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Our #1 brand is Centric. If that's unavailable we will use Perfect Stop or DFC in that order. I hope that helps and good luck with your brakes.
Good video. I constantly had rotor warping issues with my Ford Ranger even with the original factory rotors. The tire shop would order me real expensive ones and that seemed to fix it...the next brake job the next shop would tear them off and put new ones on and the problem would come right back. I spent a lot of money on brake jobs over the years using high quality expensive parts.
Biggest problem is the laziness and greed of repair shops who stopped machining rotors. Rotors used to essentially last for the life of the vehicle....or pretty darn close. Instead, every shop wants you to get new ones at every brake job....and customers fall for it.
@@joeidaho5938 Yes you're right, but rotors use to high quality and made here. Now they are coming from all over the world and there are many cheap low quality ones. I saw one hanging on the wall in a parts store with part of a soda pop can in it.
@@martinschulz9381 Yes, there are many cheap ones...and it's always a mistake to buy the cheapest. Truth be told, though, it should be rare that one has to even replace the originals. Car or truck should be quite old before that has to happen. I just replaced mine on my car....after 18 years...and I will get the originals turned so they can always be used as a replacement. The whole rotor thing is mostly a con job....just like the shit that Mr Lube or similar places do to consumers....replacing parts constantly when there is no need to.
Yes,you should've insisted they machine your better quality rotors instead of installing junk replacements. I machined rotors at the auto parts store I worked at and, honestly, even cars and trucks from the newest we'd see (2010s) always had enough in them to be turned a few times. Of course I'd always take off enough to refinish and correct any warpage, and no more. I think some shops like to gouge out material .030 each side at a time. I'd take .005 per side, or less.
I bought napa rotors and they came exactly like the "good" quality rotor you showed, coated and machined. Granted it was about $90 per rotor while the cheapest was about $50 per rotor. I also always use ceramic pads, never the cheapest pads and generally i've had a very good experience with my brakes. I recently bought an suv for winter and i'm doing brakes on it right now and the previous owner never lubed up the pins for the caliper and never greased the edges of the pads. That's something I always do is put some synthetic brake lube on those parts. Living in WI where there's salt on the winter roads it really does help. I also grease the back of the pads where they touch the cylinder and the caliper just slightly so that the backing of the pad will not stick to the caliper. I also always hit rust with a wire wheel and clean it up as much as I can before putting it all back together.
It sounds like you're doing it right! Good job. Sadly most mechanics don't grease the pins or clean the rust. They try to perform the repair as quickly as possible and cut corners to get it done. I'd rather take my time and do it right. Quality repairs and happy customers is what we strive for! Thanks for watching and commenting
I do my own brakes. One thing I have learned is that it may be better to go to the self-service wrecking yard to get your rotors and drums. You can measure a drum with an ordinary ruler and measure the rotors with a cheap micrometer or caliper, or even an ordinary ruler. If you have a good eye and some common sense you can get factory original drums and rotors. Sometimes, they don't need to be turned. More often they do, but whatever is the case you will end up with better quality than buying a no-name products from a parts chain or online. Don't use cheap pads or shoes. Generally, parts chains carry two or three grades of brake pads. Either get the top grade or buy a brand name. Shoes for rear drums do not have so many options. Just get a brand name if you can. Not all brands are widely known though.
Great video. Wish all mechanics were like you. After many repairs in many places, I’m pretty untrusting of most. But that’s the world we live in. After watching this, I have hope
Thank you! We created this video originally for our website. The main reason being people's lack of trust in mechanics! We wanted our customers to know exactly who we are and the type of work we do. We work on every customers car this way. If we do it, there have to be other mechanics out there who still take pride in their work! You just have to find them in your area. Thank you for watching and commenting! Good luck in your search for a trustworthy mechanic.
I do my own brakes, have for many years. What he said is absolutely true. I also happen to live in New Jersey and the coated brake parts are a necessity. Rust and corrosion are a serious problem in states that have to deal with snow on the roads, and Jersey uses brine which just seems dissolves cars.
I live in a city with lots of snow...and salt on roads....and rust is NOT generally a serious problem. There is no safety issue with surface rust on rotors. It's absolutely rare that it goes much further than that....because rotors constantly heat up and burn off the moisture. This video is mostly a sell job for an industry that gouges people on replacing rotors constantly.
Unfortunately in NJ we not only have acid rain and salt. We have potholes and terrible road conditions. Typical car in NJ needs new struts and shocks every 60k miles and new wheel bearings every 100k. It's sad how beat up the cars get in nj.
What a honest mechanic he states it rightly what I tell people it depends how much you value and care about your vehicle going with higher quality parts overall a good investment I had performance slotted rotors before and the quality in them is well worth the investment.
A lot depends on the age and condition of the car. People driving 10 to 15 year old cars, that are starting to rust, and that have some mechanical problems, will tend to go with the cheapest repairs. On the other hand, people with older cars that are in great condition, will tend to use OEM, or better replacement parts.
You're not wrong that this is usually the case. However, in our shop we only use the better parts. We feel your life and families life isn't worth a few dollars less in price but far less quality. We will recommend other cheaper shops that use the cheap quality parts that tend not to fit well. Our clients all know our quality and no matter your car. Top quality is all we will use and stand behind.
The reason they make them thin is cost only. Due to the cost most people would have them turned 2 or 3 times. This shifted profits partially to the shop that was doing the brake job + turning. Manufactures wanted to recapture the profits. About the same time many shops switched to hiring less experienced mechanics who can replace parts, but have no clue how to run the machines to do the complete repair job. So it's cheaper for the shop, and maximizes thier profit as well by hiring less experienced mechanics. The MPG difference between the older thicker rotors & the new thinner rotors is far less then 1%. AKA not noticeable, but just enough that the manufacture can claim they were not miss leading anyone. We are talking about a few pounds at most. 100 pounds equals about a 2% change in MPG. A few pounds is not an issue, or your groceries would kill your MPG. Even at that, with high quality brake rotors you will often find they are just as thick as the older ones. The difference is in the metallurgy. It's both stronger and a little lighter then the old metallurgy formulas. So just replacing the rotors boils down to increased profits of manufactures & most shops. Not for the money savings of the vehicle owner by saving far less then 1% in MPG. If reduction in TOC was a concern the shop would inspect & measure the rotor first. The starting thickness makes no difference as long as the minimum thickness is never exceeded. Even if the majority of newer parts store rotors can only be turned 1 to 2 times vs the old ones that could be turned 2 to 3 times, it still saves the owner in TOC. Instead of just replacing because it can't be turned as many times, or the intentional lack of knowledge & experience to do it. The fact is that the increased cost to the owner so the manufacture and shops can increase profits, has led to owners leaving parts in service far to long. This leads to a part that must be replaced & dangerous conditions. The starting thickness of some new rotors is a red hearing used as justification. Brakes that are serviced at correct intervals can still be turned once or twice before coming close to the minimum thickness in most cases. If customer safty was then main concern, this shifting of a higher cost to the customer to increase profits wouldn't happen. Which would encourage customers to service thier vehicles more often, maintaining a safer vehicle.
You hit the nail on the head. One reason I always do my own brake jobs....is because of the gouging of repair shops, especially in regard to replacing rotors. I've never had a brake failure....and I've saved thousands of dollars over the years, by doing my own brakes, and replacing only what was absolutely necessary....usually only brake pads or shoes. I drive hard, by the way. I'm certainly not easy on my brakes...or clutches...lol.
Like Scott said. We had a caliper failure on one side. It caused the rotor to get excessively hot and turn purple. We replaced both calipers and installed new pads and rotors because of that caliper. Thank you for watching and commenting. Thank you Scott for picking up why we changed the rotor!
My guess is the inner pad just wore off faster due to sticking guide pins. I had this exact situation on my old Mazda - outside pad was still plenty thick while the inner pad wore to the metal backing.
The inner pad on this Jeep rusted so badly that the pad material came off. You are correct in what you are saying. Sticking guide pins will cause the inner pad to wear while the outer pad doesn't. we prevent that from happening by using the purple Permatex Ceramic grease as seen in the video. The grease is good to 3,000 degrees so it doesn't dry out even after years of use. Like Davids reply. You can take the brakes apart yearly and re grease the pins or use the Permatex and have the pins stay floating for the life of the pads and rotors. Thanks for watching our video. Please subscribe as we are making more helpful videos now.
@@WinterAutoRepairFYI, Permatex has a red ceramic silicone grease that is recommended for guide pin rubber components. The purple grease can be used everywhere else... spread the word.
Thank you for watching the video and commenting! We got a lot of comments wishing we were near them... When I move however, it's to somewhere warm like the south. HAHA I appreciate the support from everyone. If you haven't already, please subscribe as we are currently making new videos. Also, let us know if there is something you'd like us to do a video on! Thanks again for the support.
In this video we used Centric. We also like Perfect stop and Durago EP. Sorry for the delayed response. I hope this information helps. We just started really using our CZcams channel. Thank you for watching and commenting. Please subscribe, we very much appreciate the support!
Thank you Igor! A link would be difficult since I'm not sure what country you're from or what kind of car you have. We get Centric parts from our local quality auto parts store (not a chain store). I don't know if you have rock auto available to you but Rock Auto stocks Centric brake parts also. Good luck!
I got the base trim rotors for my 02 Accord at 200k. Now at 260k, I think I can go about 5000 more miles. Because I drive 50-60k per year, they lasted pretty through the lives of two sets of pads. But now the rust is beginning, which for most people after 14 months only means 20k or so miles.
Not sure where you're from but in NJ you can't get that many miles from basic rotors. If a car gets rained on in nj, the rotors begin to rust immediately. If you don't drive the car for a week or two, the rotors become so pitted that they vibrate when braking. The salt and acid rain are terrible here. Thanks for watching and commenting on our video.
Interesting. FWIW, just replaced the factory original brakes on my 16 year old Prius @ 222,000 miles and the rears were still at 40%. I found that remarkable for a car that sits outside in all weather and often carries 500lbs of tools and supplies. No salt here in WA.
You're absolutely right. I need to spend some time making more videos. Is there any particular subject you'd like to learn about? Thank you for watching and commenting!
@@WinterAutoRepair i just learned something that people don’t know that they rather spend a few bucks on cheap parts but at the end they end up paying the double
Nice video. I'm in North Jersey and do my own pads and rotors. Just bought some Raybestos pads and rotors for our 2017 Carvan. The pads came in a redish box but the rotors, White Box all the way. Since I do mine it's nbd and I don't mind slapping new rotors on every few years. Plus the old ones make great weights 😂. 100% those parts your using are better and your clients will get longer life out of them.
Next time try using better parts. You'll see a difference in how they are installed, how much better they stop, and how much longer they last! The better parts are way easier to install. Make sure you clean the caliper brackets with a wire brush and use Permatex Ceramic brake grease on the guide pins and pad hardware.... BTW. I grew up in North Jersey. Mt. Olive township off of Rt 80.
Got 95000 miles on Durago rotors from car ID with akebono ceramic pads on my 08 c300. Pads are still 60% . Hard to believe ,yes. Durago is the manufacturer of some named brands which sell rotors for $100 a piece. Mine were $30 a piece. And akebono pads were $65 when I purchased in 2017.
I've often said that car insurance companies should offer a discount or base their rates on car maintenance schedules. If you prove you have maintained your car throughout the year, you get a discount. I find this as a better judge of rates than credit scores. I know people with high credit scores that drive dangerous cars and vice versa. That will never happen, unfortunately. Thank you for watching and commenting
Young Guy At 32 I Work In Automation. Not Gonna Say I Know A Thing Or Two But He Nailed Every Detail From Start To Finish. Started On Cars Before I Started On Robots Lol
hi great review. what brake rotor and pads you recommend for 2011 toyota prius - what manufactur? the high carbon rotor is more for a sports car or a truck? do the brakes need to be warm to have best braking performance?
Parts of this video are correct and some not so much lol. 1. Quality rotor will have some sort of coating yes. Grey fusion coating is the best not paint. And no on cross hatching… 2. Quality rotors will have no cross hatching and a much better machined finish. 3. Clean the caliper brackets yes and new shims always! Paint not necessary… but looks good. 4. He has no lube on caliper bracket shims as he said pads need to slide. Not going to slide without lube and will rust way faster. 5. Lube not needed on outsides of brake pads. Does help with noise yes on cheap pads but… but attracts dirt, dust, moisture etc… buy better pads with multiple shims instead of lube. And last one 90 something miles, ya ok… all highway and didn’t mention the part where they serviced the brakes every year to get those results. I mean serviced as in “caliper service” which in tails taking everything apart and cleaning re-lubed and putting back together. Same as a brake job but no parts being charged.
You are spot on about buying quality pads and rotors for your car. A number of years ago I was in a jam where my Subaru was metal on metal for the brakes. (somehow the metal wear tabs broke off so I never heard any screeching before hand). I needed brakes that day so I went to Auto Zone and got their "Premium" set of rotors and pads. After 10,000 miles the pads were worn out, but hey they had a lifetime guarantee so I got them replaced for free. Installed a new set and 10,000 miles again and not only were the pads worn but the rotors were warped. This time I ordered a set of EBC rotors and pads. They have been in the car for 40,000 and still have plenty of life left.
Thank you. The reason we did this video was to inform our customers how we perform a brake job. Our web designer suggested we upload it to CZcams and link it to our website. We had no idea it would get 500k views and create over 2k followers for our channel. We are honored, and we appreciate you watching and commenting.
Great video. Thank you for the explanations of the different qualities and what to look for. I was looking at NAPA's brakes for my upcoming rear replacement, so when I price them out, I will look at the build quality before purchasing. I will do you one higher though, I have a 99 Silverado with 360,000 miles. The front brake rotors are original and the pads have only been changed once. Grant it, I realize that that's because Chevy's front to back brake ratio drastically favors the back brakes, but its still super impressive. Getting ready to do only the 4th set of back brakes on my truck. Up until this change, we've only used ACDelco OEM brake parts (which are now extremely rare to find). But even still, my back brakes are lasting an average of 120,000 miles. Extremely impressive quality. Thanks again!
Being a New Jersey resident myself and owning a shop since 1984 in north west jersey, I’ve seen a lot of Rust Belt cars. Purchasing a rotor like the one you described. In reality it’s cheaper in the long run. There are rotors that are cheap to buy and the rotors that are cheap to own. Yours is obviously the ladder, cheaper to own.. Buying a rotor that will pay dividends down the road even towards the end of its life when you may need it most is priceless . That confidence you get from knowing your brakes will be there is priceless.. Back in the day even big brand names like Raybestos, Brembo, and the rest of them were not coated. A week after I would install these rotors, they would be brown and easily visible through a five spoke aluminum wheel. The brake companies didn’t realize or maybe still assumed that all cars and steel wheels with hubcaps ? Not only are there long-term performance issues. The Customer complaints from cosmetics were a legitimate concern. Thank you for a for a video that explains to customers who are simply price shopping, that they would save money by spending just a little extra and making a smart decision. Most customers don’t know or sometimes even care what it takes to cut through all the rust clean up everything and make sure things they probably lubricated like caliper pins. They just think how much could it possibly cost to do a rotor and pad slap?..
I appreciate the comment! I had no idea this video would get so many views. My website developer asked me to make a video and post it to CZcams so he could run it on our site and customers could see what it is we do. All of a sudden, I hit an algorithm, and I have a few thousand subscribers and almost 500k views on my 4 videos. It's fun to see the comments from around the world, but it really makes me feel good when other professionals such as yourself appreciate the work we do because it's how they do top-quality work also. What part of Jersey are you located in? My shop is in Robbinsville near Hamilton and trenton, but I grew up in Mt.Olive in northwest NJ off of Rt 80.
Excellent video. Folks ask yourself this simple question before you get your brakes repaired / replaced. How much do I value my life and the ones I love? I hope this helps you make a sound decision. My answer is always buy quality brake components.This is the only way you will get satisfactory stopping ability when you use quality parts. I would worry more if my vehicle does not stop than if it does not run at all. Don’t cheap out on vehicle brakes because your life and the lives of others depend on you and others to stop their vehicles in a reasonable time frame. Cheap brake components increase stopping time and distance which you may not have in an emergency situation. 😊
Thank you. This video was created for our website to help our customers understand what we do. However, it's gotten soo much positive feedback we have decided to create more content for CZcams viewers! Our shop is located at 1127 US Highway 130 Robbinsville NJ 08691.
@@WinterAutoRepair Thank you Chris for all this great information. I will be watching out for more videos from you. If I am down in your area, I will surely stop in to see you. Thank you! 😊
I do My own brakes, I do order top quality High Carbon rotors and Ceramic pads, I've sanded and replaced slide hardware, and greased them well the backing plate to, You got me beat on coating or painting caliper bracket, Now you made me have to up my game lol..👍
Very hard to find someone who is honest like you. I've had issues with mechanics even when their shops are AAA approved - doesn't mean a thing to me now since I had notified AAA.. They never did respond. It's all about getting your car serviced as fasted they can. Numerous times when I had just a simple tire rotation, I would find my lugs nuts NOT torque to specs and they would come lose. That was the end of using that shop.. Still looking for a good mechanic here on the Cape...Reason for viewing CZcams videos is to see what I can do on my own from now on.. A lot of good info on these videos where someone can learn to work on their own cars...
Unfortunately. You're not wrong. My suggestion is to ask on your local Facebook page for your town. See who gets the best reviews and then interview them like you're looking for a Dr. Best of luck in your search!
Thank you, and we appreciate you watching and commenting! Please let us know if there is something you'd like us to do a video about and if you haven't already, please subscribe! Thanks again. Chris
You're Welcome. Thanks for watching... Also, I'm sorry for the delayed response. I'm new to CZcams and was over whelmed by how many comments we received from this video! Thank you for watching and commenting. Please subscribe, we very much appreciate the support!
OMG, don't wish for state inspections. In Pennsylvania it's a NIGHTMARE. I've been taken by more than a few mechanics doing inspections. One shop told me that both my rear brake cylinders were leaking. It was $200 EACH to replace them. The next year I took it back and they told me the SAME THING. I pulled my car from the shop and went to another and they told me my cylinders were original to the car and perfectly fine. Yes, they didn't even change them the first time! This last inspection the local shop told me I needed four ball joints. While replacing them I realized that two of the four were completely fine. Of course I replaced them myself, which only cost about $75 but this program is a constant flow of fraud and lying. I do all my own work as a matter of self-defense. I tell my inspector they won't EVER get the work from me. I've done frame welding, exhaust manifold, transmission replacement, ball joints, and much more and the mechanics never make a DIME from me. The only way I could see it working is if the inspectors didn't have a financial incentive to be scum. Maybe make them a part of the DMV with no option to have the work done in house.
Thank you... we made the video for our website that why it was more about what we do than how to do it. Sorry for the delayed response. I'm new to CZcams and was over whelmed by how many comments we received from this video! Thank you for watching and commenting. Please subscribe, we very much appreciate the support!
Thanks for the great explanation and helping to understand the importance of quality brake components. I recently got new rotors installed on my car which has the same cross hatch pattern that you explained. But after the first drive, I noticed that the cross hatch pattern was heavily rubbed and I couldn't see that pattern anymore on the area where the brake pads touches. Is it normal to happen right after the installation? Also I sense the read wheel new rotors are very hot after the replacement. Thanks for your help
So I have seen cheaper rotors come with a slight machine (the cross hatch). However, that wears off quickly. However, on the better quality and harder metal, high carbon rotors, the hatch lasts a long time. We've had them last thousands of miles and several years. What brand rotors did you buy? You'll know if they are good quality after about 15,000 miles. Cheaper rotors will start to really wear out and warp by then. Good luck, and thank you for watching and commenting!
With all due respect, the problem with many mechanics, is who to trust, regardless of the price they charge they will always use the cheapest parts for them to make more money, and if you ask them if the parts they're installing are good most of them will say the best. It's very rare to find honest mechanics, most of them are ready to take as much of your hard earned money as they can, I'm not sure who takes the cake, used car salesman or mechanics. It's good that you have this video out to educate us on what to look for.
Unfortunately, you're not wrong. It seems that this industry has more dishonest mechanics than it has honest ones. My suggestion is to ask around your area who people trust and speak to them before bringing your car to them. Almost like an interview. Once you find a good one, stick with them and be loyal. Go to them for everything from oil changes to major repairs. We definitely appreciate loyalty and try to go above and beyond for our customers who are faithful to us.
Good luck in your search!
100% Correct
Buy your own parts. Have mechanic install them.
@@MrMaxggangster buy your own steak and bring it to a resturant...
I will never install customer supplied parts. What happens when we take the car apart and you purchased the wrong parts. Now I have to wait with your car apart? Are you going to pay for the time wasted? What happens when the parts fail? Are you expecting the shop to remove them for free? When we sell a part it comes with a warranty of parts and labor. Let's say you buy brakes and they fail. You're involved in an accident resulting in injury. You think the lawyer isn't going after the shop even though you supplied the parts! Absolutely not. Everyone gets sued including the mechanic. I have other reasons but these are my primary ones.
If you find a shop that will install your parts, they are likely not a good shop because they have not thought of or do not care about any of the things I mentioned. Most likely they have no insurance or they are a handy man type place that fixes cars and washing machines because they don't have a proper business model.
@@WinterAutoRepair I buy OEM parts only.
Good to know there's mechanics out there with integrity. Keep up the great work!!!
What the hell is integrity? That must be listed as an archaic word in the dictionary as it doesn't seem to fit in with modern times.
Seriously.
You fell for that we can’t turn new rotors bs. I’m going make a video about this guy and you
Yes very hard to find and at 71 I'm still looking from an honest mechanic.
There's the ole saying a jobs not worth doing if it's not done right and 👍 to you my good man. 😂
Gem of a man. The honesty you have is sorely lacking in many places. You are, in effect, saving many lives by the quality work you and your shop do.
Like what are you saying?
Many shops lack the honesty he has.
This is a professional mechanic. I subscribe to him because he wasn’t bashing anyone or any business, right down to the point and professional.👍
Sir, was out pricing a front brake job YESTERDAY, so how lucky I was to see your video, with so much information you provided on the pertinent questions, pricing and longevity of the “WHITE BOX” vs the guality parts, right down to the “ ROADTEST “ I am several states away from your business or you’d have my business…… EXCELLENT VIDEO !!
I'm so glad we were able to help you! Currently, we find that Durago DMS or DES rotors are the best quality, depending on your application. We pair it with Power Stop ceramic brake pads. This combination seems to last the longest with little to no rotor warping. You should be able to find the parts at a good local autoparts store or online at places like Rock Auto
I wish you luck, and Thank you for watching and commenting!
Very much appreciate your push to use quality parts when doing a brake job and the way you verbalize those thoughts. Thank you for the video.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Its 2024 and this is by far the best brake and rotor service i have ever seen. From the high quality rotors to the sanded and painted calipers, you stand out from alot of shops. I am from upstate NY and it would definitely be worth the 7 hour drive to have you work on my vehicle.
You always need good parts and good things for good results.
We say here in Germany:
Wer billig kauft, kauft zweimal
Who buy something cheap, will buy it twice
I am a mechanic in germany and i know:
Good mechanics are good mechanics everywhere.
It is always good to see, man doing a good job
Stay healthy
Thank you! Our shop works very hard to make customers happy. Quality parts and reliable service is how we accomplish that! Thank you for watching and commenting. Stay healthy and good luck to your shop in Germany!
As a former PA State Trooper Vehicle Fraud investigator my hats off to this mechanic. I had to deal with over 1,800 garages and dealerships on a routine bases in my coverage area and It goes both way's many bad garages that also push parts not needed and also garages that pass cars that shouldn't pass. There is no shortage of crime in the automotive industry. I could write a book of automotive horror stories in this field.
Thank you! I appreciate your support.
Write that book!
@@krijskovacic4938 i even caught a large dealership altering car fax reports deleting a crash and the ever so popular rolling odometers back.
That's probably why a lot of states scrapped their safety inspection programs. They didn't make the roads safer, and people were getting ripped off. The only winners were unscrupulous mechanics.
Fraud is rampant in every area of life. As a former deputy, loss prevention detective, private investigator, and working in multiple different fields, I can tell you that the amount of dishonest, fraudulent, unethical crap I have seen is staggering. The biggest problem....the people in charge who could make a difference....didn't care.
All the good mechanics I find are on you tube and 100s of miles away. I thought I had found a good mechanic a few miles from home. He did a few jobs on our trucks and I felt like it was OK. He also seemed to be willing to talk and answer a few questions. I ask a lot. I use Amsoil fluids on all our trucks, since I’m pretty handy I also do all the fluid services myself. Front and rear differential plus transfer case and in the case of my son’s xterra the transmission fluid. I have a 2018 Escalade and I wanted to do the transmission fluid change but I was a bit intimidated so I asked the mechanic if he would do it. I also told him I wanted it done with Amsoil, he said he didn’t order Amsoil but if I brought it he’d do it. I also don’t like to put any after market parts on this truck so I gave him the filter and gasket. He said he’d do it. When I came to pick the truck up the Transmission fluid was still in the back of the truck and he said his assistant didn’t want to use it because it was the wrong fluid. It was not, it was ignorance. He said the job was very complicated and the had to lower the exhaust and the catalytic converter to gain access. He charged me an exorbitant amount of money I paid him and left. A couple of days later when I had some time I got under the truck to check and see if I could tell what was done. There wasn’t a single mark on any bolt, the pan was super dirty, the bolts on the exhaust all had an even coat of rust. It was really evident to me that in reality they probably did nothing. By the way I asked him for the gasket they removed and he said I really didn’t need it and it was in the garbage, I really should have pressed him for it. I want you to know that people like me appreciate people like you who make these videos and teach us what to do, what to look for and give valuable advice. It’s very difficult to find good mechanics. I don’t mind paying if I am really getting the service I paid for.
Great description and explanation!!!!! Better than a lot of other videos that have more views. Excellent job!!!!!
You guys outdid my DIY...The reason why I do it myself. To bad your not near me. You be definitely doing my breaks in my truck..
God bless you shop.
Thumbs up for explaining why and how you do what you do! As a person who became a DIY mechanic due to bad dealership service, I appreciate work like this.
As far as a quality job, the truth is, with the way the economy and wages are, many people have lived financially on the edge for a long time. So even if they came across an honest mechanic like this, they had to decide whether to invest that extra $100 in a brake job with a longer life or use it elsewhere. If you have extra $, especially in rust prone areas (rust belt, North East, Ocean towns [salt], etc.), pay for the better job from a well-rated mechanic. If you're like me, it also looks much better. I can't stand seeing rusted rotors through wheels/rims.
Thank you. We originally made this video for our website. We didn't realize how viral it would go. Now that CZcams made us into a real channel. Our plan is to make more videos explaining how and why things work on cars and how to fix them.
Please subscribe if you haven't. I promise our content will be beneficial to diy mechanics! Let us know if there is something specific you'd like to learn about.
Honest? That caliper was in perfectly good shape, it simply needed to be cleaned with a wire brush. New pads come with new clips that fit into the caliper, the "sliding issue" wasn't an issue at all.
Well done vid, with some really good info. Many people don't realize that cheaper usually costs more in the long run. I'm old enough to know what a lathe was back in the day, when rotors were made in the U.S. and Canada and were pricey 👍🏽
Thank you! I started in 1996 and I remember cutting rotors and packing bearings. The parts lasted forever! Manufacturers realized that they could make a lot more money selling lesser quality parts and they save money making the rotors half as thick as they used to be. It's a win win for them. Unfortunately for the average consumer, they don't know the difference between parts and mechanics will take advantage of that. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@WinterAutoRepair I wish everyone was like you this is how it should be done absolutely brilliant.
@@WinterAutoRepair this is why I do all my own car but would easy let you loos on it can't trust anyone now I'm on my third set of pads same discs they are smooth all even wear they will take another set of break pads all very good quality. Great content I love what your doing and the way your doing it top man 👍❤
Most new brake rotors not last over 36 months in snow states , no way up to 40k miles , advertise always lies .
@@WinterAutoRepair although for preformance driving unsprung weight matters a lot, so the lighter rotors are at least good for that
I always appreciate a mechanic that point out stuff he sees as a matter of awareness and then leaves it at that.
Thank you sir for being transparent with how your shop procedures work. I wish your shop was near by so I can bring my tundra for new breaks. You got a new sub here. Greatly appreciated, have a happy New Year...GB!
Thank you for the support! Let us know if there is anything specific you'd like us to do a video about!
I wish more mechanics shared your integrity and concern for the safety of your customers.
Thank you! I wish they did also so more people could trust them. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent, to the point, not boring. I love this video!
One of the most honest person, I have ever seen. Greetings from Serbia and I wish you all the best in your future work and with your you tube channel.
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words! Please subscribe if you haven't already. We have more great videos coming soon!
Very informative, and on point! 😄 Thank you, I can tell how passionate you are about your job! 😊
Thank you. I definitely love what I do and having great customers who know they can trust me.
My respect for you and your business! Thanks for the advice!
Thank you and you're welcome!
I usually buy my brakes from www.geobrakes.com
They have pretty good quality and a reasonable price too
Old School - if you are going to do it, do it right ! Great video.
Exactly how we feel! Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@WinterAutoRepair - fortunately, I live in PA and my son is a licensed Inspection Tech. He doesn't let anything go. I appreciate that type of service. Glad to see you are trying to educate your customers and everyone else.
Old School
I usually buy my brakes from www.geobrakes.com
They have pretty good quality and a reasonable price too
I usually buy my brakes from www.geobrakes.com
They have pretty good quality and a reasonable price too
@@chloedecker4991 hey detective is there a reason you're posting the link every time you respond? just curious and i know what happened with the cat and knowledge brought it back. LOL
I recognize those rotors and the purple grease - I use those for my vehicle as well. :)
I just told a co-worker of mine about that purple grease 3 days ago, and here I stumble upon this video!
And, most critically, thank you for bedding in the rotors & pads! Once I learned about that, and after the first time that I went through the process and felt the difference, it was like the sky opened up and I was given a golden gift. I've done all I can to share this knowledge with others, as not only does this prolong the life of your brakes, but improves the stopping distance too!
This is 100% a safety and security step that every vehicle should go through any time the pads and rotors are replaced.dd
Permatex introduced a red silicone ceramic grease that is designed to be used with rubber components (ie. Caliper pin dampers). The purple grease can be used everywhere else..spread the word.
what rotors are these?
they look like durago dms. @@eganvieira200
Good job. Thank you for looking out for your people. I hope your shop is always full.
Thank you! I appreciate you watching the video and commenting! Please let us know if there's something you'd like to see. Subscribe to our channel to see new content! It helps us grow our channel.
Very informative. Especially for DIYers like myself. Definitely going to put these tips into practice.
Thank you. Thanks for watching and commenting also!
I been looking for a honest mechanic in my area. Unfortunately I haven't yet but your video gives me hope and I will keep looking .Thanks!
The ones that are less honest act like they own your car & get irritated easily. Unfortunately its a dice roll everytime you get service... these days they put a jr tech to work on your vehicle... so at least find a place where you can talk to the mechanic directly..
Try looking up BNI. It stands for Business Networking International. The is a networking group to help small businesses. We are part of our local chapter and we are held to a higher customer service standard. If we receive complaints we are removed from the group. The businesses involved are definitely higher quality. You should also try asking for recommendations from your local towns Facebook group. Take those recommendations and interview your choice to make sure they are a good fit for you!
Good luck in your search and thank you so much for watching and commenting on our video.
@Tiffany Winter You are very welcome 😊 You must be very proud.
@@WinterAutoRepair Thank you for information
I usually buy my brakes from www.geobrakes.com
They have pretty good quality and a reasonable price too
Brakes is one thing you cannot go cheap on or ignore! Glad to see this fellow takes pride in what he does and also very prudent so, kudos!
If only people realized, I'd spend twice as much easily if they talked like this. The moment you talk to me about quality and integrity, I'm sold. Thanks!
I don't understand why shops don't offer better quality. Not everyone wants to buy the cheapest product, especially when safety is involved!
When you need repair work done, ask your mechanic if this is the best quality part for the job. Almost every part of the car has 3 choices quality wise.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
I had the front brakes of my car repaired last year. My mechanic showed me three levels of quality (and warranty) of rotors and pads; and the difference was not enough to convince me that cheaper is better, so I went with the best.
Good choice! At least he gave you the option of quality parts. Most shops use the cheapest to get your business and then to get your business again soon because the cheap parts have worn out.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you because of you I am buying high Carbon quality rotor asap and have install asap. great video I live in NY other wise I take my Car to your shop.
You're welcome! Let us know how you like them when you get them installed.
Indianapolis here, appreciate this video. Just taught me so much in 10 minutes.
Awesome! This video was created for our website to educate our customers as to how we install brakes and why! I'm glad you enjoyed it! We will be making more videos now, so if there is something you'd like to see, please comment what it is! Please subscribe if you haven't, which helps us make more videos. Thank you, and happy new year!
i have a 2019 ram power wagon, only have 30,000 miles on it and its never stopped great or felt super smooth and i bought it new. I just said hell with it and swapped out to powerstop drilled slotted rotors with some good pads and it transformed the truck. I never worried too much because i was the only driver but my oldest boy just got his license so i went for it, every mechanic around my home will half ass everything to make a buck so i wish i had a shop like yours around! I spent 21 years active duty combat medic so i have enough basic understanding if keeping things going and doing it the correct way the first time from years of managing our trucks in the army but for those who dont know much about this stuff you would be amazed at the difference it makes, changed it to a very enjoyable ride! ty for what you do Sir!
It's a case of you get what you pay for. I like your attention to the detail and for caring about your customers. :)
Thank you. Thanks for watching and commenting also
There's definitely a difference in quality from OEM to aftermarket, the original pads and rotors on my Silverado lasted 77,000 miles brakes from auto zone lasted 17,000 so I went to a high quality set again..
There are many levels of pads and rotors. For most cars we can get pads as cheap as $9 and as expensive as $149 for a set. The pads we use are typically in the $85 range. The cost is a little higher initially but will last soo much longer that they pay for themselves in the long run.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't, we really appreciate it.
@@WinterAutoRepair You definitely get what you pay for 😊
Thanks for the video. Very informative. I hope you start putting out more videos like this. I would feel far better walking into a mechanic shop with more knowledge like what I learned from this vid
Outstanding vlog , thank you Chris ! I learned a ton
The OE front rotors on my 2010 Acura TL last for 110k miles. Of course I changed the pads 3 times and I greased the calipers every seasons but I was amazed by their overall durability. Buy cheap = buy twice.
Congrats. You must be fairly easy on your brakes. You're absolutely right, when you buy cheap you'll definitely have to buy again.
Thank you for watching and commenting
@@chloedecker4991 Yeah, seems legit, Detective!
How many times did you have them turned? I'm guessing at least once, personally I've never been fond of turning rotors even if it meant replacing them with cheaper knockoffs. Turning the rotors reduces the heat sink effect, I think I'd rather have cheaper rotors with more metal on them than a turned rotor, in my experience the ones that have been turned warp all too easily.
@@robertmaybeth3434turning rotors works just fine, all you're doing is removing a couple millimeters of material.
@@donniev8181 dude, did you see those rotors? Yeah, you can cut them if you live south of WV but after 3 years of frozen north winters - your rotors will have turned to dust. It’s just the way it is up here.
Great video, Chris !!! Are the rotors you're using the DuraGo Electrophoretic Coated ones, or are they Centric Rotors? Since I live in San Diego by the beach, will these rotors be an ideal choice for a daily driver 2011 Toyota Venza? Thanks
We only use Centric. The rotors we used in this video were their high carbon 125 line. Being near the beach the coating will definitely help prevent rust and increase the life of the brakes! Thanks for watching and commenting. Good luck with your brake job.
A honest guy from Jersey? That is great! I wish Winter Auto was here in California. You would get all my business. Thanks!
Mechanic here, you nailed it. Two things I really push my customers on, brakes and tires. Don't cheap out on those. I never do for myself and I'm a family man so I want to be safe as well. I'll let a coolant or oil or evap leak go a bit, but when brakes or tires aren't performing I'm throwing a bunch of money into them. It'll save your life. I was in only one accident in my life and I hit a deer because both my brakes and tires were cheap and too far gone. Never again.
Appreciate your attention to detail of replacing parts that are too far gone, cleaning up what can be cleaned up, greasing moving parts, etc. You're 100% right, it goes a long way and prevents so many issues. Prevention is better than treatment.
Agreed also about cutting the rotors, you just can't anymore, they are too thin. You might be able to get away with 2 sets of pads on the same rotor, maybe 3 in the off case, but rotors are designed to wear at almost the same rate as pads anymore. Not necessarily bad because they are cheaper overall. It is what it is.
Just remember, your life is one solid brake performance away from being over.
I knew brake rotors don’t get ground and reused much anymore but I didn’t know why the practice had gone away. Nice explanation.
Thank you. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Also the cost of getting rotors turned got ridiculous almost as much as replacing the rotor in some cases,and every time they get turned they get thinner so they warp easier
Good to see technicians out there doing a proper job. As a customer, i always say I'm willing to pay more for better service and quality parts. Cheap parts never payoff in the long run.
Thank you, and it's very true. Good quality costs more initially, but it is a much better value in the long run.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Thank you for making this! Excellent teaching skills. You are very Honest
Thank you for the kind words! I appreciate you watching and commenting and happy you enjoyed it!
Hi Chris, thank you for running a great and honest business. we appreciate you integrity
Thank you for the nice comment! It's very much appreciated. Thank you for watching our video also!
Thank you for the video! I really learnt alot especially the brake grease I was not aware that you could use grease on brakes!...with regards to the brake bedding procedure can you give us some tips please?
You're welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting
As far as bedding goes. Go to a road without traffic if possible. Travel at 40 mph and slow down to around 10 mph then back to 40 and repeat stopping 5 or 6 times. Then drive without braking for a bit. Start over with the 40 mph to 10 mph again. I do this 3 times and then drive for a few minutes on a highway where I can not hit the brakes for about 10 minutes. Once done I park the car for an hour where the brakes can cool all the way down. There are many procedures but for street cars this is the process I use. Race cars I do a higher speed process but that doesn't apply here. Good luck with it!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with me and the many other people who are lucky enough to read this post!
Wow, if only every mechanic was like this guy! Awesome video. Keep up the good work.
Unfortunately too many "mechanics" are like this, half of what this guy did was not needed.
@@donniev8181 I’m not a mechanic (I just work on my own stuff), but what part do you disagree with to the point where it’s “unfortunate” that he is doing more than he needs to?
@@CamaroBrad because in the end the customer is having to pay for parts that weren't needed. Sure, if the customer wants new rotors that's fine but an honest mechanic would never replace that brake bracket just because of some surface rust.
@@donniev8181fair enough. I don’t think he replaced it though. He said he sanded it and painted it to protect it. So I guess depending on how much he charged for that. If it was me I’d probably just use a wire brush and throw new clips/hardware on it.
I'm 65. I bought my first car when I was 17. I've owned many cars over the years, and had many brake jobs. I've never seen or heard of any brake shop, sanding down brake caliper brackets, let alone painting them. Until now.
Thank you so much for the video. I always believe in good brakes and tires having said that what do you recommend brands for rotors? I live in Houston and my commute requires quick stopping all day long. I've using Centric and Raybesto rotors and Akebono pads.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Our #1 brand is Centric. If that's unavailable we will use Perfect Stop or DFC in that order.
I hope that helps and good luck with your brakes.
Good video. I constantly had rotor warping issues with my Ford Ranger even with the original factory rotors. The tire shop would order me real expensive ones and that seemed to fix it...the next brake job the next shop would tear them off and put new ones on and the problem would come right back. I spent a lot of money on brake jobs over the years using high quality expensive parts.
Biggest problem is the laziness and greed of repair shops who stopped machining rotors. Rotors used to essentially last for the life of the vehicle....or pretty darn close. Instead, every shop wants you to get new ones at every brake job....and customers fall for it.
@@joeidaho5938 Yes you're right, but rotors use to high quality and made here. Now they are coming from all over the world and there are many cheap low quality ones. I saw one hanging on the wall in a parts store with part of a soda pop can in it.
@@martinschulz9381 Yes, there are many cheap ones...and it's always a mistake to buy the cheapest. Truth be told, though, it should be rare that one has to even replace the originals. Car or truck should be quite old before that has to happen. I just replaced mine on my car....after 18 years...and I will get the originals turned so they can always be used as a replacement. The whole rotor thing is mostly a con job....just like the shit that Mr Lube or similar places do to consumers....replacing parts constantly when there is no need to.
Yes,you should've insisted they machine your better quality rotors instead of installing junk replacements. I machined rotors at the auto parts store I worked at and, honestly, even cars and trucks from the newest we'd see (2010s) always had enough in them to be turned a few times. Of course I'd always take off enough to refinish and correct any warpage, and no more. I think some shops like to gouge out material .030 each side at a time. I'd take .005 per side, or less.
I bought napa rotors and they came exactly like the "good" quality rotor you showed, coated and machined. Granted it was about $90 per rotor while the cheapest was about $50 per rotor. I also always use ceramic pads, never the cheapest pads and generally i've had a very good experience with my brakes. I recently bought an suv for winter and i'm doing brakes on it right now and the previous owner never lubed up the pins for the caliper and never greased the edges of the pads. That's something I always do is put some synthetic brake lube on those parts. Living in WI where there's salt on the winter roads it really does help. I also grease the back of the pads where they touch the cylinder and the caliper just slightly so that the backing of the pad will not stick to the caliper. I also always hit rust with a wire wheel and clean it up as much as I can before putting it all back together.
It sounds like you're doing it right! Good job. Sadly most mechanics don't grease the pins or clean the rust. They try to perform the repair as quickly as possible and cut corners to get it done. I'd rather take my time and do it right. Quality repairs and happy customers is what we strive for! Thanks for watching and commenting
I do my own brakes. One thing I have learned is that it may be better to go to the self-service wrecking yard to get your rotors and drums. You can measure a drum with an ordinary ruler and measure the rotors with a cheap micrometer or caliper, or even an ordinary ruler. If you have a good eye and some common sense you can get factory original drums and rotors. Sometimes, they don't need to be turned. More often they do, but whatever is the case you will end up with better quality than buying a no-name products from a parts chain or online.
Don't use cheap pads or shoes. Generally, parts chains carry two or three grades of brake pads. Either get the top grade or buy a brand name. Shoes for rear drums do not have so many options. Just get a brand name if you can. Not all brands are widely known though.
Great video. Wish all mechanics were like you. After many repairs in many places, I’m pretty untrusting of most. But that’s the world we live in. After watching this, I have hope
Thank you! We created this video originally for our website. The main reason being people's lack of trust in mechanics! We wanted our customers to know exactly who we are and the type of work we do.
We work on every customers car this way. If we do it, there have to be other mechanics out there who still take pride in their work! You just have to find them in your area.
Thank you for watching and commenting! Good luck in your search for a trustworthy mechanic.
Great video! Michigan is the same way with zero inspections.
I do my own brakes, have for many years. What he said is absolutely true. I also happen to live in New Jersey and the coated brake parts are a necessity. Rust and corrosion are a serious problem in states that have to deal with snow on the roads, and Jersey uses brine which just seems dissolves cars.
I live in a city with lots of snow...and salt on roads....and rust is NOT generally a serious problem. There is no safety issue with surface rust on rotors. It's absolutely rare that it goes much further than that....because rotors constantly heat up and burn off the moisture. This video is mostly a sell job for an industry that gouges people on replacing rotors constantly.
Perks of not living in the rust belt is that I can’t imagine replacing a new rotor because it’s rusting to crap already
Unfortunately in NJ we not only have acid rain and salt. We have potholes and terrible road conditions. Typical car in NJ needs new struts and shocks every 60k miles and new wheel bearings every 100k. It's sad how beat up the cars get in nj.
@@WinterAutoRepair Illinois is NO better, our roads are horrid!!
What a honest mechanic he states it rightly what I tell people it depends how much you value and care about your vehicle going with higher quality parts overall a good investment I had performance slotted rotors before and the quality in them is well worth the investment.
Thank you! Our customers trust and safety is our highest priority. Thank you for watching and commenting!
good to know i just got brembos for my focus st and got these rotors thank you man!
Nice. Good luck with your new set up. Brembos are awesome
A lot depends on the age and condition of the car. People driving 10 to 15 year old cars, that are starting to rust, and that have some mechanical problems, will tend to go with the cheapest repairs. On the other hand, people with older cars that are in great condition, will tend to use OEM, or better replacement parts.
You're not wrong that this is usually the case. However, in our shop we only use the better parts. We feel your life and families life isn't worth a few dollars less in price but far less quality. We will recommend other cheaper shops that use the cheap quality parts that tend not to fit well. Our clients all know our quality and no matter your car. Top quality is all we will use and stand behind.
The reason they make them thin is cost only. Due to the cost most people would have them turned 2 or 3 times. This shifted profits partially to the shop that was doing the brake job + turning. Manufactures wanted to recapture the profits. About the same time many shops switched to hiring less experienced mechanics who can replace parts, but have no clue how to run the machines to do the complete repair job. So it's cheaper for the shop, and maximizes thier profit as well by hiring less experienced mechanics. The MPG difference between the older thicker rotors & the new thinner rotors is far less then 1%. AKA not noticeable, but just enough that the manufacture can claim they were not miss leading anyone. We are talking about a few pounds at most. 100 pounds equals about a 2% change in MPG. A few pounds is not an issue, or your groceries would kill your MPG.
Even at that, with high quality brake rotors you will often find they are just as thick as the older ones. The difference is in the metallurgy. It's both stronger and a little lighter then the old metallurgy formulas.
So just replacing the rotors boils down to increased profits of manufactures & most shops. Not for the money savings of the vehicle owner by saving far less then 1% in MPG. If reduction in TOC was a concern the shop would inspect & measure the rotor first. The starting thickness makes no difference as long as the minimum thickness is never exceeded. Even if the majority of newer parts store rotors can only be turned 1 to 2 times vs the old ones that could be turned 2 to 3 times, it still saves the owner in TOC. Instead of just replacing because it can't be turned as many times, or the intentional lack of knowledge & experience to do it.
The fact is that the increased cost to the owner so the manufacture and shops can increase profits, has led to owners leaving parts in service far to long. This leads to a part that must be replaced & dangerous conditions. The starting thickness of some new rotors is a red hearing used as justification. Brakes that are serviced at correct intervals can still be turned once or twice before coming close to the minimum thickness in most cases.
If customer safty was then main concern, this shifting of a higher cost to the customer to increase profits wouldn't happen. Which would encourage customers to service thier vehicles more often, maintaining a safer vehicle.
You hit the nail on the head. One reason I always do my own brake jobs....is because of the gouging of repair shops, especially in regard to replacing rotors. I've never had a brake failure....and I've saved thousands of dollars over the years, by doing my own brakes, and replacing only what was absolutely necessary....usually only brake pads or shoes. I drive hard, by the way. I'm certainly not easy on my brakes...or clutches...lol.
Good video! I learned some valuable information. Thanks.
good video. I like when you explained the quality parts versus cheap parts.
Thank you. Good talking to you also.
Personally, I would appreciate you checking those items.
Dude, awesome !
Thanks man.
I usually buy my brakes from www.geobrakes.com
They have pretty good quality and a reasonable price too
Great video! Learned alot so thank you! 👍
Thanks for watching and commenting! We appreciate the support.
A true craftsman who cares about his work. Well done.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! Please subscribe as we are making more informative videos now.
Dude that rear rotor is fine, that’s just surface rust, it was no where in need of replacing.
It was replaced because it had a caliper issue.
Like Scott said. We had a caliper failure on one side. It caused the rotor to get excessively hot and turn purple. We replaced both calipers and installed new pads and rotors because of that caliper.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Thank you Scott for picking up why we changed the rotor!
My guess is the inner pad just wore off faster due to sticking guide pins. I had this exact situation on my old Mazda - outside pad was still plenty thick while the inner pad wore to the metal backing.
I prevent such wear by disassembling my front disc brakes once a year and cleaning and lubricating the caliper guide pins.
The inner pad on this Jeep rusted so badly that the pad material came off. You are correct in what you are saying. Sticking guide pins will cause the inner pad to wear while the outer pad doesn't. we prevent that from happening by using the purple Permatex Ceramic grease as seen in the video. The grease is good to 3,000 degrees so it doesn't dry out even after years of use. Like Davids reply. You can take the brakes apart yearly and re grease the pins or use the Permatex and have the pins stay floating for the life of the pads and rotors. Thanks for watching our video. Please subscribe as we are making more helpful videos now.
Yup happened to me too. Now I always grind off the rust and drill out the rust then coat with silicone lube.
@@WinterAutoRepairFYI, Permatex has a red ceramic silicone grease that is recommended for guide pin rubber components. The purple grease can be used everywhere else... spread the word.
GREAT video!! Winter Auto Repair needs a shop in Upstate NY! :)
Thank you for watching the video and commenting! We got a lot of comments wishing we were near them... When I move however, it's to somewhere warm like the south. HAHA
I appreciate the support from everyone. If you haven't already, please subscribe as we are currently making new videos. Also, let us know if there is something you'd like us to do a video on! Thanks again for the support.
Great explanation of why turning rotors stopped happening…. I couldn’t figure it out!
What brand rotor and pads did you use in this video?
In this video we used Centric. We also like Perfect stop and Durago EP. Sorry for the delayed response. I hope this information helps. We just started really using our CZcams channel.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Please subscribe, we very much appreciate the support!
Awesome job! You are probably THE only shop performing the bedding in in North America. Any chance you can post the link for parts? Thank you again !
Thank you Igor! A link would be difficult since I'm not sure what country you're from or what kind of car you have. We get Centric parts from our local quality auto parts store (not a chain store). I don't know if you have rock auto available to you but Rock Auto stocks Centric brake parts also. Good luck!
I usually buy my brakes from www.geobrakes.com
They have pretty good quality and a reasonable price too
God bless you. True professional. Thanks
Great Job! What Premium brand of Rotors/Pads and Grease do you use? and what kind of paint is used to coat the brake assembly?
I got the base trim rotors for my 02 Accord at 200k. Now at 260k, I think I can go about 5000 more miles. Because I drive 50-60k per year, they lasted pretty through the lives of two sets of pads. But now the rust is beginning, which for most people after 14 months only means 20k or so miles.
Not sure where you're from but in NJ you can't get that many miles from basic rotors. If a car gets rained on in nj, the rotors begin to rust immediately. If you don't drive the car for a week or two, the rotors become so pitted that they vibrate when braking. The salt and acid rain are terrible here. Thanks for watching and commenting on our video.
For Honda brakes you can try geobrakes.com they sell all oem brakes
Yes, I've definitely had better experience with the painted Rotors; I'm actually from Trenton!
Interesting. FWIW, just replaced the factory original brakes on my 16 year old Prius @ 222,000 miles and the rears were still at 40%. I found that remarkable for a car that sits outside in all weather and often carries 500lbs of tools and supplies. No salt here in WA.
We need more videos from you it really helps us a lot
You're absolutely right. I need to spend some time making more videos. Is there any particular subject you'd like to learn about? Thank you for watching and commenting!
@@WinterAutoRepair i just learned something that people don’t know that they rather spend a few bucks on cheap parts but at the end they end up paying the double
@@WinterAutoRepair I will checking your channel when videos arrive ✌️
Nice video. I'm in North Jersey and do my own pads and rotors. Just bought some Raybestos pads and rotors for our 2017 Carvan. The pads came in a redish box but the rotors, White Box all the way. Since I do mine it's nbd and I don't mind slapping new rotors on every few years. Plus the old ones make great weights 😂. 100% those parts your using are better and your clients will get longer life out of them.
Next time try using better parts. You'll see a difference in how they are installed, how much better they stop, and how much longer they last! The better parts are way easier to install. Make sure you clean the caliper brackets with a wire brush and use Permatex Ceramic brake grease on the guide pins and pad hardware....
BTW. I grew up in North Jersey. Mt. Olive township off of Rt 80.
I got about 800 miles out of my autozone rotor. Caliper lasted 5 months, then leaked all my fluid.
Got 95000 miles on Durago rotors from car ID with akebono ceramic pads on my 08 c300. Pads are still 60% . Hard to believe ,yes. Durago is the manufacturer of some named brands which sell rotors for $100 a piece. Mine were $30 a piece. And akebono pads were $65 when I purchased in 2017.
We see poor brake life all the time. Our shop is all about quality and customer safety. We only use Centric brake parts.
@@WinterAutoRepair good to know. Thank you!
Start prosecuting people for causing accidents for obviously ignoring safely issues. Don't rely on your government.
I've often said that car insurance companies should offer a discount or base their rates on car maintenance schedules. If you prove you have maintained your car throughout the year, you get a discount. I find this as a better judge of rates than credit scores. I know people with high credit scores that drive dangerous cars and vice versa.
That will never happen, unfortunately.
Thank you for watching and commenting
Young Guy At 32 I Work In Automation. Not Gonna Say I Know A Thing Or Two But He Nailed Every Detail From Start To Finish. Started On Cars Before I Started On Robots Lol
hi great review. what brake rotor and pads you recommend for 2011 toyota prius - what manufactur?
the high carbon rotor is more for a sports car or a truck? do the brakes need to be warm to have best braking performance?
Parts of this video are correct and some not so much lol. 1. Quality rotor will have some sort of coating yes. Grey fusion coating is the best not paint. And no on cross hatching… 2. Quality rotors will have no cross hatching and a much better machined finish. 3. Clean the caliper brackets yes and new shims always! Paint not necessary… but looks good. 4. He has no lube on caliper bracket shims as he said pads need to slide. Not going to slide without lube and will rust way faster. 5. Lube not needed on outsides of brake pads. Does help with noise yes on cheap pads but… but attracts dirt, dust, moisture etc… buy better pads with multiple shims instead of lube. And last one 90 something miles, ya ok… all highway and didn’t mention the part where they serviced the brakes every year to get those results. I mean serviced as in “caliper service” which in tails taking everything apart and cleaning re-lubed and putting back together. Same as a brake job but no parts being charged.
You are spot on about buying quality pads and rotors for your car. A number of years ago I was in a jam where my Subaru was metal on metal for the brakes. (somehow the metal wear tabs broke off so I never heard any screeching before hand). I needed brakes that day so I went to Auto Zone and got their "Premium" set of rotors and pads. After 10,000 miles the pads were worn out, but hey they had a lifetime guarantee so I got them replaced for free. Installed a new set and 10,000 miles again and not only were the pads worn but the rotors were warped.
This time I ordered a set of EBC rotors and pads. They have been in the car for 40,000 and still have plenty of life left.
Ebc rotors and pads were amazing
This video i think shows the right way to do business. thank you for the information.
Thank you. The reason we did this video was to inform our customers how we perform a brake job. Our web designer suggested we upload it to CZcams and link it to our website. We had no idea it would get 500k views and create over 2k followers for our channel.
We are honored, and we appreciate you watching and commenting.
Great video. Thank you for the explanations of the different qualities and what to look for. I was looking at NAPA's brakes for my upcoming rear replacement, so when I price them out, I will look at the build quality before purchasing.
I will do you one higher though, I have a 99 Silverado with 360,000 miles. The front brake rotors are original and the pads have only been changed once. Grant it, I realize that that's because Chevy's front to back brake ratio drastically favors the back brakes, but its still super impressive. Getting ready to do only the 4th set of back brakes on my truck. Up until this change, we've only used ACDelco OEM brake parts (which are now extremely rare to find). But even still, my back brakes are lasting an average of 120,000 miles. Extremely impressive quality. Thanks again!
Being a New Jersey resident myself and owning a shop since 1984 in north west jersey, I’ve seen a lot of Rust Belt cars.
Purchasing a rotor like the one you described. In reality it’s cheaper in the long run.
There are rotors that are cheap to buy and the rotors that are cheap to own.
Yours is obviously the ladder, cheaper to own..
Buying a rotor that will pay dividends down the road even towards the end of its life when you may need it most is priceless . That confidence you get from knowing your brakes will be there is priceless..
Back in the day even big brand names like Raybestos, Brembo, and the rest of them were not coated.
A week after I would install these rotors, they would be brown and easily visible through a five spoke aluminum wheel. The brake companies didn’t realize or maybe still assumed that all cars and steel wheels with hubcaps ?
Not only are there long-term performance issues. The Customer complaints from cosmetics were a legitimate concern.
Thank you for a for a video that explains to customers who are simply price shopping, that they would save money by spending just a little extra and making a smart decision. Most customers don’t know or sometimes even care what it takes to cut through all the rust clean up everything and make sure things they probably lubricated like caliper pins. They just think how much could it possibly cost to do a rotor and pad slap?..
I appreciate the comment! I had no idea this video would get so many views. My website developer asked me to make a video and post it to CZcams so he could run it on our site and customers could see what it is we do. All of a sudden, I hit an algorithm, and I have a few thousand subscribers and almost 500k views on my 4 videos.
It's fun to see the comments from around the world, but it really makes me feel good when other professionals such as yourself appreciate the work we do because it's how they do top-quality work also.
What part of Jersey are you located in? My shop is in Robbinsville near Hamilton and trenton, but I grew up in Mt.Olive in northwest NJ off of Rt 80.
Might come visit your shop for my next brake job i have a mercedes so i want good brakes. Love the integrity
Thank you. Give us a call when you're ready. We apply this level of care to all of our repairs! 609-208-2550
merry christmas. great video
✨Wonderful video! Thank you for sharing and caring ✨
Thank you! Please subscribe! We are working on new content..
So what brand of rotors do you use or recomend? What are your thoughts on drilled and slotted rotors?
I never go cheap on tires and brakes. Tires for contact patch and brakes save your life.
I just did DBA rotors and carbotech pads.
Great information.
Thank you! Thanks for watching and commenting also!
Excellent video. Folks ask yourself this simple question before you get your brakes repaired / replaced. How much do I value my life and the ones I love? I hope this helps you make a sound decision. My answer is always buy quality brake components.This is the only way you will get satisfactory stopping ability when you use quality parts. I would worry more if my vehicle does not stop than if it does not run at all. Don’t cheap out on vehicle brakes because your life and the lives of others depend on you and others to stop their vehicles in a reasonable time frame. Cheap brake components increase stopping time and distance which you may not have in an emergency situation. 😊
Thank you for the great video Chris! Your information and the time you took to explain everything was great! BYW, where is your shop located? 🤔
Thank you. This video was created for our website to help our customers understand what we do. However, it's gotten soo much positive feedback we have decided to create more content for CZcams viewers! Our shop is located at 1127 US Highway 130 Robbinsville NJ 08691.
@@WinterAutoRepair Thank you Chris for all this great information. I will be watching out for more videos from you. If I am down in your area, I will surely stop in to see you. Thank you! 😊
Great honest video. Excellent. Blessings.
I do My own brakes, I do order top quality High Carbon rotors and Ceramic pads, I've sanded and replaced slide hardware, and greased them well the backing plate to, You got me beat on coating or painting caliper bracket, Now you made me have to up my game lol..👍
Nice! Glad to help! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very hard to find someone who is honest like you. I've had issues with mechanics even when their shops are AAA approved - doesn't mean a thing to me now since I had notified AAA.. They never did respond. It's all about getting your car serviced as fasted they can. Numerous times when I had just a simple tire rotation, I would find my lugs nuts NOT torque to specs and they would come lose. That was the end of using that shop.. Still looking for a good mechanic here on the Cape...Reason for viewing CZcams videos is to see what I can do on my own from now on.. A lot of good info on these videos where someone can learn to work on their own cars...
Unfortunately. You're not wrong. My suggestion is to ask on your local Facebook page for your town. See who gets the best reviews and then interview them like you're looking for a Dr.
Best of luck in your search!
Nice informative and explanatory vid.... and I applaud your integrity and priority for customer safety not bank balance
Thank you, and we appreciate you watching and commenting! Please let us know if there is something you'd like us to do a video about and if you haven't already, please subscribe! Thanks again. Chris
Damn I learned a lot. Thank you sir!
You're Welcome. Thanks for watching... Also, I'm sorry for the delayed response. I'm new to CZcams and was over whelmed by how many comments we received from this video!
Thank you for watching and commenting. Please subscribe, we very much appreciate the support!
OMG, don't wish for state inspections. In Pennsylvania it's a NIGHTMARE.
I've been taken by more than a few mechanics doing inspections. One shop told me that both my rear brake cylinders were leaking. It was $200 EACH to replace them. The next year I took it back and they told me the SAME THING. I pulled my car from the shop and went to another and they told me my cylinders were original to the car and perfectly fine.
Yes, they didn't even change them the first time!
This last inspection the local shop told me I needed four ball joints. While replacing them I realized that two of the four were completely fine. Of course I replaced them myself, which only cost about $75 but this program is a constant flow of fraud and lying.
I do all my own work as a matter of self-defense. I tell my inspector they won't EVER get the work from me. I've done frame welding, exhaust manifold, transmission replacement, ball joints, and much more and the mechanics never make a DIME from me.
The only way I could see it working is if the inspectors didn't have a financial incentive to be scum. Maybe make them a part of the DMV with no option to have the work done in house.
Great video on how to do a quality brake job.
Thank you... we made the video for our website that why it was more about what we do than how to do it. Sorry for the delayed response. I'm new to CZcams and was over whelmed by how many comments we received from this video! Thank you for watching and commenting. Please subscribe, we very much appreciate the support!
Thanks for the great explanation and helping to understand the importance of quality brake components.
I recently got new rotors installed on my car which has the same cross hatch pattern that you explained. But after the first drive, I noticed that the cross hatch pattern was heavily rubbed and I couldn't see that pattern anymore on the area where the brake pads touches. Is it normal to happen right after the installation? Also I sense the read wheel new rotors are very hot after the replacement.
Thanks for your help
So I have seen cheaper rotors come with a slight machine (the cross hatch). However, that wears off quickly. However, on the better quality and harder metal, high carbon rotors, the hatch lasts a long time. We've had them last thousands of miles and several years. What brand rotors did you buy? You'll know if they are good quality after about 15,000 miles. Cheaper rotors will start to really wear out and warp by then. Good luck, and thank you for watching and commenting!